MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 LCD Panel Replacement

Replace a broken LCD rather than replacing your entire display.

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.

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Edit Step 2 Memory Door  ¶ 

  • Remove the three identical Phillips screws from the memory door.

  • Make sure to record which sets of screws came from where. This will help when re-assembling.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

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Edit Step 4 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 6 screws:

    • Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the four Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

  • Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case. This stage can be quite tricky. Over the DVD reader are 4 tabs set back which pull out vertically.

  • Note that the two small tongues on the left hand front of the upper case may bend while you remove the upper case. When re-installing, you may need to bend them back to fit in the grooves in the lower case.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

  • Remove the upper case.

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Edit Step 11 Display Assembly  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the two antenna cables attached to the Airport Extreme card.

  • The white antenna cable connects to the left side of the Airport Extreme card.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Deroute the Airport antenna cables from their channel in the left speaker.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the iSight, inverter, and left fan cables from the logic board.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the display data cable from the logic board.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Remove the silver T6 Torx screw securing the ground loop on the display data cable to the casing.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Support the display with one hand while removing the following 3 screws:

    • Two 9.5 mm silver T6 Torx screws with threads on only part of the shaft on the inside of the display hinges.

    • One 9.5 mm silver T6 Torx screw with threads on the entire shaft on the outside of the left hinge.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Grasp the display assembly on both sides and lift it up and out of the computer.

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Edit Step 18 Rear Display Bezel  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws from the lower left and right corners of the display (two screws total).

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger perpendicular to the face of the display between the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel and the front bezel.

  • Do not insert your spudger between the plastic strip and the rear bezel.

  • With the spudger still inserted, rotate it away from the display to separate the front and rear bezels.

  • Work along the left edge of the display until the rear bezel is evenly separated from the front bezel.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger perpendicular to the face of the display between the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel and the front bezel.

  • With the spudger still inserted, rotate it away from the display to separate the front and rear bezels.

  • Work along the right edge of the display until the rear bezel is evenly separated from the front bezel.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the front bezel and the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel near the screw holes at the bottom corners of the display.

  • Rotate your spudger toward the rear bezel to separate it from the front bezel.

  • If necessary, enlarge the gap between the lower edge of the rear bezel and the clutch cover until the two components are completely separated.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Lift the rear bezel by its bottom edge and rotate it away from the display assembly to separate the top edge.

  • Remove the rear display bezel from the display assembly.

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Edit Step 23 LCD Panel  ¶ 

  • Remove the pieces of yellow kapton tape from the bottom left corner of the display.

  • Remove the pieces of tape securing the display data cable and camera cable to the display.

  • Peel the three green antenna ground straps off the copper tape along the bottom edge of the LCD.

    • The adhesive connecting these straps to the display is very strong. An edged tool is helpful to separate the adhesive while you peel the straps off.

  • Remove the piece of tape securing the camera cable to the LCD.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel the camera cable off the foam tape along the top edge of the LCD.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger and carefully flip the ZIF connector bar up to release the before the camera cable.

  • Gently pull the camera cable away from its socket on the camera board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the LCD.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Pull the display data cable connector away from its socket on the LCD.

  • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the LCD.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the four black Phillips screws along the left and right edges of the display (eight screws total).

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • The next few steps will require you to separate the LCD from the adhesive applied to the upper and lower edges of the front bezel. A heat gun may be helpful to soften the adhesive to prevent damaging the LCD panel during removal.

  • The adhesive is applied such that it sticks to a thin steel strip around the perimeter of the LCD. When prying your LCD away from the front panel, be sure you are separating the front panel from the steel strip on the LCD.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift one of the top corners of the LCD out of the front bezel.

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Work your way along the top edge of the LCD, slowly prying the attached steel strip away from the front bezel.

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Now that the top edge is free, slightly lift the LCD out of the front bezel for enough room to pry the steel strip along the lower edge of the LCD away from the front bezel.

  • Pry along the lower edge of the LCD until it is freed from the adhesive on the front bezel.

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Lift the inverter out of the clutch cover.

  • Disconnect the LCD backlight connector from its socket on the inverter board.

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Lift the LCD out of the front bezel, minding any cables that may get caught.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 32 In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Be aware that replacing the rear bezel without problems depends entirely on gentle handling. There are some aluminum tabs in recesses on the top edge of the rear bezel that do not take kindly to rough handling!

dave, · Reply

You would be well advised to buy in some Kapton tape before reassembly, as the old tape tends to split on removal.

dave, · Reply

Bravo. Worked like a champ. Excellent write up and really appreciate it. I did it twice today hahahah

Timothy Allen, · Reply

The screw fixing points on my MBP came away from the back case. They are spot welded to the back case and in the Photo's I have you can see the point's each. You may think that if this happens you lose the ability to use the screws to secure the enclosure but you still can use the screws if you position the fixing points before clipping the front panel in place. Have a needle of small nail to align though the holes before replacing the screws. This is not easy and you need to be practices at this sort of repair.

They sit under the plastic surround and do! add the the string of the completed enclosure.

substevew, · Reply

Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

rpbetancourt, · Reply

If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

Adam, · Reply

Quote from Adam:

If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

Thank you very much!

Evgeniy, · Reply

When I did this, I used a empty egg carton to store my screws. I wrote the steps where I removed screens in Sharpie on the bottom of the "egg cup" and then dropped the screws in as I went. Then I just worked backwards to put it all back together.

mark93, · Reply

Quote from rpbetancourt:

Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

I Generally just use a piece of paper with a rough sketch of the system and locations of the screws with prestik.

Tarn Alcock, · Reply

Getting these screws in and out is difficult because most screwdrivers are longer then the battery compartment is deep and so will be slightly off plumb. When you go to re-assemble the computer, getting these screws to seat is one of the hardest parts of the re-assembly. It's very important to be gentle and not to strip the threads.The screw should tighten and come to a stop after 3-4 turns. If you turn 6 or more turns and don't feel it grab, then back off and try again, making sure that everything is in alignment.It might be easier to start with the left screw, because it is further away from the latch mechanism.

dalphotography, · Reply

A T6 worked but was too small. A T7 was better.

Nelson R Pardee, · Reply

Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

Scott Rose, · Reply

by Scott Rose Jan 4 @ 11:12 PM

Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

To keep this from possibly happening, I placed 2 pieces of tape over the DVI connector pin holes.

rpbetancourt, · Reply

Be careful in step 4, these two screws are shorter than the four screws in step 6, dont mix them up!

brendantully1, · Reply

If you still have the DVI to VGA adapter that came with the computer plug it in to the plug and screw it tight, that way you will not put one of the screws into the holes.

netdude21, · Reply

there are 2 push buttons inside the harddrive bay which release the front of the upper case.

mforgie, · Reply

this is an annoyingly difficult step. it is VERY hard to get the front part off without bending the unit improperly. Would be great to know where the two "push buttons" are.

lessig, · Reply

On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

khank, · Reply

Quote from khank:

On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

I just realized these were the screws mentioned in Step 4, which I missed originally. Did you miss step 4 too?

khank, · Reply

I discovered that I didn't need to take the case off completely. I just propped it up with a small screwdriver and was able to remove the airport card and replace it with a new one fairly easily.

schemedream, · Reply

That's not so difficult step. you shoul know , that front edge of upper case holding only on 5 plastic "locks" 4 in front edge upon the superdrive, 5-th near the "sleep light, open laptop button"

just lift up the rear edges of upper case to 35-40 degrees

Hofmann78rus, · Reply

[I d just say carefule on the prising open - these are fragile screw tab fixings joined to the uppercase. - Patience and gentle pressure and all works fine .

daithid, · Reply

Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

Archhawk, · Reply

the two push pins are in the battery area behind the front of the open button

mykeylynx, · Reply

Quote from Archhawk:

Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

I agree! It was really very difficult just ROCKING the front panel. NOT done! Do not pry it from the front of the unit, as the soft metal edge gets scratched! I turned the unit upside down and slowly pried the keyboard apart left-to-right from INSIDE the Battery Bay, slipping a plastic pen to keep it apart. When I finally looked at what was holding it down, it was these 5 grey&black plastic SNAP slots, and 4 of them were behind the DVD slot.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=40...

Mario da Silva, · Reply

I found I had to push with a little force from underneath the battery compartment where the touch pad is located to free the bottom edge of the case. The case came away with two loud snaps. At first I thought I'd broken something, but then it appeared that it was just the plastic above the slot loading super drive that was held in very tightly and needed some encouragement.

Joshua May, · Reply

There are several clips along the front of the case in front of trackpad and above the optical drive slot. These need to be gently levered open (eg using an old credit card), and clipped closed on reassembly. Start at the left hand side. Take care not to bend the aluminum top. When reassembling, check the top panel for kinks/bends and straighten by hand before reassembly.

cheongi, · Reply

The way I did it was to lift the back to about 45% (the ribbon cable is long enough) and then used the spudger to force the 4 snap tabs in front of the optical drive to separate, working from the right edge towards the middle (they will 'pop'), ending with the last tab to the left of the sleep light.

Hilal Malawi, · Reply

not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

-urdus.

urdus, · Reply

I found that the ribbon connecting the top part of the case to the logic board wasn't long enough and the connector did have to be disconnected.

Joshua May,

Quote from urdus:

not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

-urdus.

Excellent tip! Thanks, this allowed me to skip steps 10 and 11 (any unnecessary tinkering with the logic board is recommended).

rpbetancourt, · Reply

These were hard for me to get back on.

mowzer11surf, · Reply

The ISight inverter did now want to come out. The grey cloth on top pulled off.

mowzer11surf, · Reply

The screw fixing points on my MBP came away from the back case. They are spot welded to the back case and in the Photo's I have you can see the point's each. You may think that if this happens you lose the ability to use the screws to secure the enclosure but you still can use the screws if you position the fixing points before clipping the front panel in place. Have a needle of small nail to align though the holes before replacing the screws. This is not easy and you need to be practices at this sort of repair.

They sit under the plastic surround and do! add the the string of the completed enclosure.

substevew, · Reply

these 'green' tapes are orange in my mbp

Jon May, · Reply

I needed to use heat gun to remove lcd from bezel.

2nfinite, · Reply

Same here, needed a heat gun. P.S. Harbor Freight had them on sale cheap (tip, not advertisement).

Michael Lance,

This is easy if you use the small lugholes on the left and right sides near the top edge (which cover philips screws) to insert a spudger or fine slotted screwdriver and then work along the top with another spudger as if you were using tyre levers on a bicycle tyre. when you get to the middle, repeat from the other side.

Jon May, · Reply

Push the spunger gradually along the gap between screen and rear bezel. Dont use a back and forth motion to prize them apart, as is suggested in earlier steps. I initially tried using a back and forth motion to prize them apart which slightly bent the rear bezel.

rupertshanks, · Reply

Prying with plastic spudger at the lower edge of the display housing bent the aluminum frame for me. Suggestion: if you don't plan on keeping the old glass, pry it away from the aluminum slowly (opposite direction than shown in step 33).

Michael Lance, · Reply

I finally finished this, it took a few hours. After I finally got the LCD separated from the bezel, I got the replacement screen out of the box ready to install and I couldn't believe I had been sent the wrong part (NOT ORDERED FROM THIS WEBSITE!!). Anyway I thought I would put everything back together until the correct part arrived...I turned the computer on and the screen was fixed...no new part required. Now I am thinking that maybe the screen wasn't stuffed but maybe a connector was loose.......anyway these instructions were a godsend and next time i am ordering my part from here.

rlgriffo, · Reply

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