MacBook Core 2 Duo LCD Panel Replacement

Replace a broken LCD on your MacBook Core 2 Duo.

Replace the LCD screen without the inverter, cables, or bezels.

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use a coin to rotate the battery-locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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Edit Step 3 Memory Cover  ¶ 

  • Unscrew the three evenly-spaced Phillips screws from along the rear wall of the battery compartment.

  • The screws are captive to the metal memory cover so you cannot lose them.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Rotate the L-shaped memory cover so it clears the battery compartment opening and lift it up and out of the computer.

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Edit Step 5 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 3 screws:

    • One 11 mm Phillips#00 in the middle of the case. (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)

    • Two 14.5 mm Phillips #00 (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)

  • If the screws stick in the case, you can use a magnetized screwdriver to draw them out.

  • The shorter of the three screws goes in the middle.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 3 screws from the rear wall of the battery compartment:

    • One 3 mm Phillips #0. (Head: 2.75 mm. dia.)

    • Two 4 mm Phillips #0 on the either side. (Head: 2.75mm dia.)

  • Take extra caution with these screws as they can strip easily.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws from either side of the right wall of the battery compartment (not the ones closest to the battery connector).

    • Two 6.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the four indicated Phillips screws from the front wall of the battery compartment. When working from the left, remove the 2nd, 4th, 7th and 9th screw.

    • Four 3.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x 4mm thick)

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 4 screws from the back of the computer:

  • The longer screws go on the inside, shorter screws on the outside.

    • Two 11 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.2mm dia. x 2 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

    • Two 7.25 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2mm dia. x 3.75 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws from the optical drive side of the computer.

    • Two 5.2 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.3mm dia. x 3.5 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

  • It is not necessary to remove the similar screws on the other side of the computer.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • There's a trackpad and keyboard ribbon connecting the upper case to the logic board, so don't pull the upper case off entirely just yet.

  • Starting near the display and working around to the front of the computer, pry up on the upper case. A plastic opening tool or a medium hard guitar pick may help you to do this.

  • The upper case is likely to stick at the connection above the optical drive. If this is the case, first free all other sides, then proceed to pull upward on the upper case from either side of the optical drive opening.

  • If you stand the base on end to get a better look you may displace the total of 4 grey plastic clips that hold the keyboard in place. Don't panic. They slide into slots at the top right-most edge near the CD drive.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • While holding up the upper case, pull up the black tab of the silver cable away from its connector.

  • If there is no black tab, you can also use a spudger to gently pry the connector from its housing. This connector is tall, so be sure to pry straight up.

  • If you happen to break your upper case cable when removing the upper case, we stock the cable individually and we have a guide that makes replacing it easy.

  • While you have the upper case removed, you may want to take the opportunity to remove dust, hair, etc. It's best to use a can of compressed air, though if you use a brush, make sure that its bristles are made of a material (usually animal hair) that doesn't generate static electricity, which can destroy electronics.

  • Upon reassembly, there are 4 grey plastic clips on the optical drive side of the keyboard (refer to second picture). They must be installed in their slots for the keyboard to snap in properly.

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Edit Step 13 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Grasp the white plastic tab attached to the hard drive and pull it to the left, removing the hard drive from the computer.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws from the front edge of the optical drive.

    • Two 3.25 mm Phillips #000, (Head: 4 mm. dia. x .3 mm thick)

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the orange optical drive ribbon cable from the logic board. This cable can also be disconnected by prying straight up using a spudger.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the newly revealed display data cable. If there is no pull-tab on the top of the connector, it may be helpful to use a spudger to disconnect this connector.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the (once again) newly-revealed hard drive cable.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Peel up the foil tape between the fan and the optical drive. Lift the foil tape from the fan side, leaving it attached to the optical drive.

  • During reassembly, be sure to route the cables beneath the tape before reattaching it.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Pull up the display data cable from along the edge of the optical drive to reveal a silver Phillips screw.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Remove the 2 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the optical drive.

  • The Bluetooth cable may be covering the screw. If so, carefully push it aside. You may need to unscrew the cable clip to free the cable enough.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Lift the Bluetooth antenna board from the right side of the optical drive.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Deroute the hard drive cable from along the front of the optical drive.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Lift the front edge of the optical drive and slide it up and out of the computer.

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Edit Step 24 C-Channel  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 3 screws:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips near the right speaker.

    • One 6 mm Phillips threaded through a hole in a plastic finger above the subwoofer.

  • Be careful not to over-tighten the screw above the subwoofer too tight or the plastic could crack.

  • Santa Rosa and Penryn MacBooks do not have a c-channel. If you are disassembling either of these models, remove only the single 3 mm Phillips screw from the right speaker and skip step 26.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Lift the right speaker out of its housing and set it to the side.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • If you have a Santa Rosa/Penryn model, skip this step.

  • Using a spudger, gently pry up the white plastic slot and slide the metal c-channel to the right and away from the display.

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Edit Step 27 Display  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to carefully disconnect the microphone cable from the logic board. You'll want to work from side to side, and slowly wiggle the connector out of its socket.

  • Pulling on this connector vertically will break the socket off the logic board. This connector should be removed horizontally by gently pulling the microphone cable toward the screen while working a spudger between the connector and the socket.

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Lift up on the black right speaker cable with one hand, and deroute the microphone cable from the silver metal clip just above the right RAM slot.

  • This metal clip may not be present in all models. Be sure that the cable is free from any hold downs around this area before proceeding.

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 4.2 mm Phillips screw securing the ground loop in the right speaker cable and microphone cable to the metal framework.

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Deroute the microphone cable and the black display data cable from the tabs at the bottom of the subwoofer.

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 3 mm Phillips screw securing the ground loop in the display data cable located just above the Bluetooth board.

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the three antenna cables from the Airport card. There may be a square foam piece over the logic board connector.

  • Disconnect the inverter cable from the socket by inserting the spudger between the right or left edge of the plug and the socket, and prying gently upward. (Do NOT pry the entire socket off the board... you must pull the plug from within the socket.) The inverter plug lifts vertically out of the socket. Do not pull it in the direction of the connecting wires or you will tear the socket off.

  • If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, there are only two antenna cables and the black inverter cable is in a different location.

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 2 screws from the right hinge mount:

    • One 6 mm Phillips on the left side of the hinge mount.

    • One 10 mm Phillips on the right side of the hinge mount.

  • For Santa Rosa/Penryn models, see second picture and remove:

    • One 3 mm smalller diameter Phillips on the far left.

    • One 5.2 mm larger diameter 4.2 mm head Phillips in the middle.

    • One 10 mm Phillips from the far right.

  • Lift the right hinge mount with the small plastic piece out of the computer.

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Hold the display with one hand while removing the screws from the left hinge mount.

  • Remove the following 3 screws from the left hinge mount:

    • One 7.2 mm smaller diameter Phillips from the right side.

    • One 5.2 mm larger diameter Phillips from the middle.

    • One 10 mm Phillips from the left side.

  • Lift the left hinge mount with plastic piece out of the computer.

  • Check that the cables on the right are not trapped under other cables.

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Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Grasp the display assembly on either side, and lift it up and out of the computer.

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Edit Step 36 Front Display Bezel  ¶ 

  • The following steps should be identical for both white and black MacBooks.

  • Use a thin plastic card to release the tabs holding the front display bezel to the display assembly. There are five tabs along the left side of the display bezel.

  • Don't use a card that cannot be replaced if damaged. The clips can be difficult to remove and the card can bend and break, rendering it useless.

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Continue to free the tabs along the the top edge of the display assembly.

  • Be careful when working near the iSight camera.

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Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Next, free the five tabs securing the display bezel on the right side.

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Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Lift up the front display bezel from the top and use your plastic card to free the tabs along the bottom edge of the display bezel.

  • Make sure that your card is between the metal frame around the LCD panel and the display bezel and not touching the LCD panel itself.

  • After freeing all holding tabs, lift the front display bezel away from the display assembly.

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Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • Sometimes when removing the front display bezel, the retaining clips that should remain captive in the LCD brackets come out with the front display bezel. Follow this and the next step to transfer the clips back to the LCD bracket.

  • Use a metal spudger or another thin tool to carefully pry the gray plastic clips off the tabs molded into the front display bezel. A 0.8mm flat screwdriver may be useful for this step.

  • Be careful, as the clips are made of thin plastic and are inherently delicate.

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Edit Step 41  ¶ 

  • Insert the longer end of the retaining clip beneath the edge of its recess cut into the LCD bracket.

  • Use the edge of a metal spudger to push the shorter tab on the other side of the retaining clip into the recess cut into the LCD bracket.

  • The second picture shows the LCD bracket properly installed.

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Edit Step 42 Clutch Cover  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 4.2 mm Phillips screws securing the clutch cover.

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Edit Step 43  ¶ 

  • While holding the display down with one hand, use your other hand to lift the clutch cover off the clutch hinges.

  • It may help to wiggle the clutch cover as you pull it up from the display.

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Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Lift up the right side of the clutch cover and guide the display data and iSight cables through the gap in the clutch cover.

  • Lift the clutch cover out of the display assembly.

  • During reassembly, make sure not to pinch the backlight cable (with the white connector) when snapping the clutch cover back into place. This cable has two visible wires leading into the lower right section of the LCD display to the backlight. (The models with pink and white wires are usually longer and easier to pinch.)

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Edit Step 45 LCD Assembly  ¶ 

  • Remove the small piece of foam tape stuck down above each of the bezel covers.

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Edit Step 46  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to slide the left bezel cover towards the LCD panel.

    • Do not lift up vertically on the cover! Unlike the large display bezel, this one has horizontal hooks to keep it in place. These will break easily.

  • Lift the left bezel cover off the display assembly.

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Edit Step 47  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to slide the right bezel cover toward the LCD panel.

  • Lift the right bezel cover off the display assembly.

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Edit Step 48  ¶ 

  • Lift the inverter out of the display slightly and disconnect the backlight cable from its right side.

  • Place the inverter back down in its recess.

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Edit Step 49  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 3.2 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable to the right clutch hinge.

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Edit Step 50  ¶ 

  • Move the display data cable out from under the mounting arm of the right clutch hinge.

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Edit Step 51  ¶ 

  • Remove the twelve 4.2 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD assembly to the rear display bezel.

  • Make sure you pay attention to how the microphone cable (and antenna cable on some models) are routed around the outside of the two screws nearest to the bottom of the screen (on both left and right). It's easy to damage the cables if not routed properly when putting these screws back on.

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Edit Step 52  ¶ 

  • Lift the LCD assembly out of the rear display bezel, minding any cables that may get caught.

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Edit Step 53  ¶ 

  • Be sure to keep track of the small magnet along the left side of the display. It may be stuck to the LCD frames or to the rear display bezel. When installing it, be sure short side is facing upward.

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Edit Step 54 LCD Panel  ¶ 

  • Turn the LCD panel assembly over so that the screen is face down. You may want to use a cloth on your worksurface to prevent scratching the screen.

  • Peel up all the yellow tape securing the display data and iSight cables to the back of the LCD panel.

  • You'll need to transfer the tape over to your new display when reassembling the computer.

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Edit Step 55  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the display data cable from the back of the display.

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Edit Step 56  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the iSight cable from the top of the display.

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Edit Step 57  ¶ 

  • Lift up the display data and iSight cables and move them to the side. It is not necessary to entirely remove these cables from the display assembly.

  • De-route the microphone cable from the right side of the LCD assembly.

  • On Core 2 Duo models, also de-route the antenna cable from the left side of the LCD assembly.

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Edit Step 58  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 3.1 mm Phillips screws along the left edge of the display.

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Edit Step 59  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 3.1 mm Phillips screws securing the iSight holder to the top of the display.

  • Make sure to remove the screws securing the metal bracket to the edge of the display and not the screws in the iSight board itself.

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Edit Step 60  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 3.1 mm Phillips screws along the right edge of the display.

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Edit Step 61  ¶ 

  • Lift up the LCD panel by its bottom edge and slide it out of the metal mounting brackets.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Core 2 Duo device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Coin

$2.95 · 1 In stock

Plastic Cards

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #000 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

This guide is fantastic and has worked well for me. As other commenters have said and noted in the "Difficult" difficulty, it does require some skill and repair knowledge. The most important thing here is to keep track of your screws. I use a bead organizer for some perspective. All things said and done, be patient, keep your head, have the right tools and this fix is a piece of cake.

Takahashi, · Reply

The directions are excellent! I did it... and it worked!!! The whole thing took me about 2 hours or so. While you have the computer apart, it's probably a good idea to replace the backlight inverter too (only about $20). I used the top and bottom of an egg carton to sort the screws by step, then reassembled using the screws in reverse order.

Jordan, · Reply

Quick Question: I seem to have an "extra" cable on my White Macbook (2007, IIRC) LCD. If you look at foto for Step 52 above, I have a thin BLUE cable running down the right-hand side - near the silver one - that goes down between the hinge and the edge of the back cover and then along the edge behind the inverter and then behind the other hinge, then goes up towards the LCD panel and is taped together in a 3-cable bunch with the 2 thin cables you can see on the left of of foto 52. This blue cable has the same "tip" as the other 2 in the foto.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Matt, · Reply

In reply to Matt; there are 2 types of airport cards that come on these machines, some require 2 antennae leads and others use 3 (I believe the newer type uses 2). Some machines have the older style 3 leads even though they used the newer airport card, so they just left the tip off the unused lead.

maccentric, · Reply

To replace JUST THE CCFL BULB, would I really need to do all of this? Can the face of the LCD be removed to reveal the bulb enough for removal?

Billy Stanley, · Reply

I used this guide plus the Thermal Paste guide to resolve my MacBook RRS (Random Restart Syndrome) issue. My MacBook would randomly restart after the fan kicked into high speed. When I removed the heatsink I discovered an an irregular patch completely free of thermal compound of about 15-20% of the area on one of the processors. I removed and re-applied the thermal paste. I ran a memory test utility overnight that previously caused a restart after a couple of hours, and the probelm seems to be solved. TIme will tell.

ServiceDocs, · Reply

This guide was seriously helpful, so thanks for putting this together. I found a thick ribbon of dust/muck whatever between the fan outlet and the exhaust port that was almost as dense as felt. My fan must have been fighting like crazy trying to pass air through that blockage, which explains the high temps and excessive fan noise. Wish I'd done this sooner...

Thanks again!

skraggle, · Reply

Just R&R'ed the fan in my black MacBook Core 2 Duo tonight. Took me 30 minutes tops and I was taking my time. These instructions are SPOT ON! Great job ifixit.com! Two thumbs up!

Follow the instructions exactly as you see and have a piece of paper taped to the table next to you that you can outline all the screws you took out so you know where they go back in. I expected this to be a LOT harder, but it was one of the simplest repairs I've ever done to ANY computer!

mikeutter, · Reply

Piece of cake--or should I say gum. If you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, load up a stick of gum and chomp on it until it's needed then use a bit to retain screw on the driver. And if you should tear the black tape, or if the silver tape won't stick any more, just bubblegum it together. The instructions were clear and correct, which made for a very simple repair.

Mike Woodruff, · Reply

My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

Calvin, · Reply

Quote from Calvin:

My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

Will not drop out even if you turn it upside down?

skraggle, · Reply

Somehow, now my isight camera doesn't work and the light is always on. Cannot figure out what I did wrong.

josefsalyer, · Reply

Somehow the plastic disc with the slot for a coin got dislodged from the case, and I can't seem to get it open now. Any tips/links on how to open this without the aid of the plastic disc?

Peter Wood, · Reply

i broke my disc off as well. I used two toothpicks to rotate the thing. hi tech.

howard bederman,

please pay attention that screws are native to metal pieces otherwise you are going to be a stupid like me trying to unscrew unsuccessfully until I reread the guide

manochu, · Reply

Lay the screws out in a ”timeline” like a circle, Then when you reassemble just start from the end of the “timeline”

decristoforo, · Reply

I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

ryan64, · Reply

Quote from ryan64:

I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

I use a strong magnet to pull the screws out of their socket.

Alaerus, · Reply

The top two screws didn't seem to want to come out, and I saw no reason they had to, so I left them there, put a little piece of tape over each so they wouldn't fall out.

HandyMac, · Reply

You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later since it won't quite reach the bottom.

colmcostelloe, · Reply

for me this was the hardest part especially the two 14.5mm that dint want to come out. keep turning the screw and slightly pressing the case down, once the screw is a little use try using finger, screw and a non metallic point to try to push them out. they arent tight but they are very hard to unscrew i almost gave up, but believe me they come out with patience

manochu, · Reply

I also did not find that I needed to remove the two 14.5 mm screws. I unscrewed them but they seemed designed to stay with the case and I found it did not seem to affect anything to just let them stay there.

Alice, · Reply

On this step, I encountered a problem. The middle screw was screwed in very very tightly. As a result, I ended up stripping the screw despite being very careful. I tried to use a wire cutter to remove the screw, but that did not work. I actually ended up using the wirecutter to cut the bracket off, leaving the screw screwed in. This did not affect anything. I am typing off of my replace macbook top case right now.

The point is, BE CAREFUL! but if something does go wrong, don't fret. There are solutions.

LaNoobieFixer, · Reply

Quote from LaNoobieFixer:

On this step, I encountered a problem. The middle screw was screwed in very very tightly. As a result, I ended up stripping the screw despite being very careful. I tried to use a wire cutter to remove the screw, but that did not work. I actually ended up using the wirecutter to cut the bracket off, leaving the screw screwed in. This did not affect anything. I am typing off of my replace macbook top case right now.

The point is, BE CAREFUL! but if something does go wrong, don't fret. There are solutions.

get the thing on tv that removes stripped screws next time

Nick, · Reply

On a Macbook I just tore down, I found that in this step, the 4mm screw was on the left, not the right. I thought maybe someone else had it apart before and accidentally switched them so in staying true to these instructions I tried to reassemble with the 4mm screw on the right. I found it would not go all the way in. I ended up putting it back together with the 2-3mm screws on the right and the 1-4mm screw on the left.

scottgriz, · Reply

I didn't look closely at these screws when I took it apart, but when I went to put it back together (two weeks later) I found I had two longer (4mm?) screws, and one short one. So I put the longer ones in the two end spots, the short one in the middle; they all seemed to go in okay. (Maybe the screws got changed around the last time the cracked top case was replaced, when the MB was in the Apple shop under warranty last year.)

HandyMac, · Reply

Me too. I had two longer 4mm screws here, and one 3mm screw. And I didn't pay attention to what holes each screw came out of. I put them back in a random order and it seems fine.

Thomas,

My early 2008 MacBook was the same. 2 x 4mm in the outer and 1 x 3mm in the centre.

Ernie K,

You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later.

colmcostelloe, · Reply

I needed a tweezers here. These screws are tiny!

If you lose one you may have to remove the RAM (by pulling the appropriate lever) and gently slide out the screw.

colmcostelloe, · Reply

I couldn't pull over the two 3 mm Phillips on the step 6, how could you've done it?

Eliotus, · Reply

To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

BeatJunkie, · Reply

please note the position of the screws because when you are reinstalling them you might get confuse. this ones go below or under (sorry English inst my first language). There are two screw holes this steps are for the ones below.

manochu, · Reply

Quote from BeatJunkie:

To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

Thanks Beat Junkie, this was the situation with my Mac 2.13ghz Mid 2009 that I was putting back together. Thanks for the confirmation! (For the 6th step)

Cong Trieu, · Reply

For me (A1181), there were two shorter screws and one longer. The longer went on the left (a shorter screw wouldn't catch). (Not the middle that is currently in the instruction. But that could be model difference.) The middle screw started to strip the head but using a slightly larger phillips allowed me to get it out.

Paul Collins, · Reply

I have two MacBooks, one white and one black and both had two 3mm screws and one 4mm screw, opposite of what was in the main document

doublel, · Reply

In my late 2006 macbook the central screw was longer than the side screws..

Julien Lesage, · Reply

The steps do not tell you what length screw that is needed to be here. What I can tell you that is the screw needs to be 5mm or 6mm, NOT 7.5 or 8mm or 9mm.

Cong Trieu, · Reply

Outer screws (red) are shorter (7mm long), while inner screws (orange) are 11mm.

ptb, · Reply

I found these screws quite loose; upon reassembly, I wanted to torque them but found the case would distort towards the center, so I had to leave them fairly loose

David A, · Reply

There will be 4 grey plastic clips just right of the DVD drive. Note their position as they will fall out in the next steps.

tim7866, · Reply

No such clips found on my early 2008 version.

Ernie K,

Thank you ifixit, it was huge help for me, I did it and everything just works great.....THANK YOU!

Dako, · Reply

As is reported above, there a 4 friction tabs that connect to the keyboard. If they do not stay in place and stick to the keyboard, the keyboard will not go back on. Just remove them and put them in the clips, with the solid clip wall to the outside of the unit, and put the keyboard back on. Do this before reconnecting the keyboard.

David Higgins, · Reply

I had no problem at all in this step, the left side was already unlocked when I open the MacBook, the right side was a little tricky but i was able to pull it out in less than a minute

manochu, · Reply

The front left had an annoying little metal strip between the outside of the case and the tab. It's very easily bent, so the tab was caught on it. I spent a good deal of time trying to push and pull various things (and even just yank the @$!^ thing off), but eventually I found that if you undo the two screws you are told not to in step 7, the battery connector can be pulled up and out, leaving enough horizontal room to pull out the metal strip (with a little bit of coercion). I left it out when I put everything back together.

James Pearson, · Reply

Because this step requires some force, make sure to double check that you got all your screws out. I finally got my gumption up to apply the necessary force required to pull up the upper case, and after 5 minutes of pulling, I look and see that the reason it wasn't coming up because I missed one screw. Ugh.

Also, before you just shove your hands under the upper case, prying about, think twice: I cut my finger pretty bad on a sharp piece of metal.

Thomas, · Reply

When reassembling, take some care to align the tabs on the right hand side next to the optical drive. Rock and slide these tabs into position. Then work from right to left, as the rest of the case is quite easy to put back together.

Andrew Dent, · Reply

I took my mac apart yesterday to clean out the trackpad properly and after getting some 'help' from my grandfather (he lost 2 screws and snapped off a bit of the uppercase but i didn't have the heart to ask him to leave it alone) i tried putting the uppercase back on. it fits perfectly but the middle section closest to the screen appears slightly raised and when i go to screw in the four screws on the exterior of the laptop i can't because the hole is not at all aligned (and two of those four screws are very long). anyone know why this might be? can it be fixed/is it a common problem?

Eliza, · Reply

If the upper case sticks above the optical drive, don't pull straight up, but up and to the left at the same time.

frood, · Reply

The plastic around the edge is very thin and cracks easily, so be gentle while using the opening tool.

Henry S, · Reply

On the right side above the optical drive there are little plastic braces that latch the upper case to the main body. This is the reason why the upper case might stick here. If the above step is not working, also try to gently push the upper case sideways away from the optical drive after freeing all other sides. When reassembling make sure the braces are in their slots of the main body and not attached to the upper case. If you cannot fit the upper case evenly over the optical drive, that's probably why. In this case carefully remove them and slide them back into their slots before lowering the upper case.

Hendryk1982, · Reply

this guide was awesome. this step was easy for the broken macbook i salvaged and noticed because i got a factory replacement keyboard quite recently on my macbook in use, the 4 clips above the optical drive were TIGHT - it took quite a bit of pulling up before it came loose!

Chinarut Ruangchotvit, · Reply

When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your macbook!

spi, · Reply

The entire connector broke off the logic board when I was disconnecting the keyboard just now. Be extremely careful!

Chris, · Reply

I tried to remove the blacktab from the logic board, however, the black tab tore apart. The logic board is okay but the keyboard connector is torn. It has some silver wires passing through a whit plastic housing. It is the first generation of MacBook Core Duo. Do you think it can be repaired?

Roger, · Reply

I could not get the keyboard off my the body... (black macbook I don't know if that makes any difference). It was stuck bottom left hand corner, so I had to bend whatever was stuck to get access to the logicboard etc... any reason why this is the case??

Takuma, · Reply

not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

carlos, · Reply

Great repair guide! Changing the top case was pretty easy and it saved me a lot of money.

Harry, · Reply

it was really easy, i had no experience whatsoever installing or unistalling mac parts (or pc either). it just took me less than 25 minutes, and i just finish and Im typing from my new upper case keyboard.

manochu, · Reply

After a sucessful install of the keyboard, the select (mouse buttun equivalent) was found to not operate consistently. I called support and they are shipping a new one out to me. THIS is why I buy from ifixit - sure I can get a part for less elsewhere - but I would not get the service I get with ifixit - THANKS guys!!!

jgreengold, · Reply

Note - I agree, this was VERY easy - great pictures, perfect explanations...

jgreengold, · Reply

Quote from carlos:

not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

E Chambliss, · Reply

Quote from E Chambliss:

Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

carlos, · Reply

Quote from carlos:

no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

Francisco, · Reply

Quote from Francisco:

Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

my MacBook charges the battery and powers on i dont hear a chime and it turns on but never starts

carlos, · Reply

Quote from spi:

When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your MacBook!

How do you do it? I can't get it out

Superb guide thank you guys

eli, · Reply

This takes some nerves if there is no tab, but be confident and just prise the connector straight up.

Andrew Dent, · Reply

Be very careful while you pulling the black tab! It's better to use spudger to pry the connector from it's housing while you gently pulling the black tab.

eaksut, · Reply

After installing the caddy successfully, I could not make the screw on the right fit in again. The distance between the hole and the caddy seemed to be too big.

ThomasKS, · Reply

Pull straight up from the left

tjkredo, · Reply

The display cable was difficult to disconnect for me. I had to pull firmly and use the spudger at the same time to finally pop it off.

supershibbydude1, · Reply

Pull the connector firmly straight up.

Eric, · Reply

This step is not necessary

nycstb, · Reply

Left Off Here

velopro, · Reply

When reconnecting the Hard Drive Cable to the logic board (Step 17) I ran the HD cable on top of the microphone wire, and the other wire that runs parallel to it, when I should have run the HD cable underneath those two wires. This resulted in the hard drive not being connected on startup, and a lengthy troubleshooting session to figure this out. So save some time and install this underneath the two wires, just like you found it when taking it apart!

mrphiliprichard, · Reply

I had to unscrew a screw securing flat ribbons keeping cables in position between beeper and fan to reach for the dvd screw

t0m, · Reply

STEP 20 - IMPORTANT= This screw secures a mounting bracket on the optical drive. This bracket's eyelets are slotted. The right side of the bracket has a tab inserted in the bottom case. After removing the screw, use the spudger to slide the bracket to the left. This disengages the tab from the right side of the case, thus allowing the optical drive to be lifted out in step 23.

xtian, · Reply

As an addition to xtian's note, the bracket that you need to slide right (and a spudger is very useful here) it may be because the rear right (as in the picture) of the optical drive needs to be GENTLY pushed down as the bracket end needs to slot into a hole on the right hand side of the case.

Ernie K,

After removing the screw gently push the metal tong (which the screw was holding) towards the fan. This will unlock the drive mount.

Tom Roinisto, · Reply

Please add this notes to the actual step. I missed the comments and bent the bracket.

huso, · Reply

I used a #000 Phillips.

Eric, · Reply

I found it helpful to remove the screw sitting to the lower left of the speaker.

patjmccarthy, · Reply

There is only one screw holding the optical drive down, the one circled in red. the one in orange is for the ground loop for the microphone and right speaker cable. Also, a spudger makes quick work of moving the cables out of the way to get to the screw for easy removal/replacement.

Leo LeBron, · Reply

As I tried to refit the optical drive, the plastic mount for the brass threaded socket that receives the screw crumbled like an old tooth. Only thing for it was to ditch the plastic and superglue the brass socket into place on the case - seems to have worked. (People who design parts/fixings that involve strong materials held in place by weaker ones should be imprisoned). I also had to remove the sliding bracket on the drive and cut 2/3mm off the right hand end to get the screw hole to align with the brass socket, also seems not to have caused any harm. Never thought I would find myself lashing out with the superglue and wielding a hacksaw inside a laptop...empowered!

muir mackean, · Reply

On the the optical drive there is a sliding-bar (secured by two screws, which fixes the drive in the right edge of the Alu-frame) that has to be shifted to the left when taking the drive off. Especially, before putting the optical drive back to the computer, make sure that the the sliding bar is in its leftward position in order not to block the insertion of the drive. Then shift the bar gently to the right thereby fixing the drive's position.

armin, · Reply

If you don’t have the c-channel it seems you can skip steps 24, 25, and 26.

mike s, · Reply

Santa Rosa and Penryn use a #000 phillips for the speaker screw.

Eric, · Reply

Is the silver wire really the microphone? I noticed wear right down to the wire on mine, and the macbook often has yellow/goofy looking screen, then adjusting the angle helps.

Luke, · Reply

The ground screw also holds down a ground loop that is part of the speaker cable. The two loops may be stuck together so you need to carefully separate them.

kyoungdale, · Reply

Don't pry the plastic connector from the board, but rather, the plastic connector is two pieces. Separate them.

Joscon5, · Reply

For the MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn: the inverter cable is a bit tricky. I was fooled into thinking that there were pins which went INTO the inverter cable. Because of this, I was afraid of lifting up on the cable (off the board), but this is what you actually must do to separate them.

For clarification, here's a pic (low-res, sorry) of the inverter cable disconnected from it's on-board plug: http://lh4.ggpht.com/_l0f6yKkaxDU/S0FOHS...

jetrost, · Reply

The inverter connector comes off vertically from the motherboard.

James, · Reply

Can I get a replacement connecter that the inverter cable connects to and solder it on? I broke mine taking to of how it says in the guide

edward, · Reply

i also broke mine off the motherboard on accident. it appears to be a fairly clean break. is there anyone who has had luck soldering them back on?

michael,

Antenna connectors pull up.

Eric, · Reply

About disconnecting the inverter cable. I had more luck wedging the pointed end of spludger between the PCB near the cables and the shoulder of the connector nearest the display. I then pushed the pointed end of the spludger away from the display and the connector popped up off the socket. when trying to use the spludger on the sides of the socket, i deformed the plastic edges of the socket.

Linda Vanasupa, · Reply

For those wishing to go further into the LCD, the steps are identical to the MB CD, see this repair guide for more:

http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repair/MacBo...

MC25, · Reply

When you go to replace the bezel, look at the back side and disconnect any of the little snap-on tabs that may not have stayed in the metal bracket around the LCD. On a white MacBook they were grey, about 4mm x 8mm. They work best if you put them into the metal frame separate from the bezel and then snap the bezel into them.

The best way to remove them seemed to be by placing my thumb over one edge (so they didn’t fly off) and prying with a thin, flat screwdriver flat against the bezel tab.

mike s, · Reply

A note for anyone panicking because they can't get their front bezel back on:

It is common for the grey clips holding the bezel to the display to come up along with the bezel. If you have ANY grey clips attached to the back of your bezel, in order to replace the bezel you need to first remove the clips from the bezel and reinsert them into the holes in the display panel manually first! Once all of these clips are back in place, the bezel can be reattached.

These clips are very fragile and if you are having this problem odds are you have already severely bent some of them. Check the tiny plastic clasps and if they are squashed down, gently pry them back up with your fingernail. Again these grey clips are very fragile, so use care in reattaching them.

WillyDavidK, · Reply

This was a very helpful tip. I made the mistake at first when reading your note, thinking that the gray clips were supposed to be on the bezel, not the display, but quickly corrected that.

For anyone confused, the bezel is the thin plastic part surrounded the display, and the display of course houses the LCD.

Another note:

The easiest way to remove the clips from the bezel is from the side and pry up. To reattach them to the display, put one end of the clip in first, and then use tweezers to poke in the other end of the clip.

Quote from WillyDavidK:

A note for anyone panicking because they can't get their front bezel back on:

It is common for the grey clips holding the bezel to the display to come up along with the bezel. If you have ANY grey clips attached to the back of your bezel, in order to replace the bezel you need to first remove the clips from the bezel and reinsert them into the holes in the display panel manually first! Once all of these clips are back in place, the bezel can be reattached.

These clips are very fragile and if you are having this problem odds are you have already severely bent some of them. Check the tiny plastic clasps and if they are squashed down, gently pry them back up with your fingernail. Again these grey clips are very fragile, so use care in reattaching them.

MC25, · Reply

I found that an easy way to remove the clips from the bezel is to use a plastic knife (knife as in the utensil). Sliding the knife under one of the clip's long sides and prying upwards worked well for me. Thanks MC25 and WillyDavidK for the tips, they worked great!

Iron Kettle, · Reply

In this picture you can see that it is a Nikon camera that was used for this guide. :)

GotMac, · Reply

There are little clips at each end of the clutch cover, and I found it helpful first to lift the clutch cover off the metal rod first, and after that squeeze the cables at each end between the clips, so you can lift the cover off.

Iron Kettle, · Reply

Pay attention here. I missed the part about pinching the cable and that's exactly what I did. It helps to pull the video and mic cables tight to fit the clutch cover on. I also had to make sure the pink/white cables were up and out of the way. When I did it correctly, it slid in pretty easily. It would help to really look at how things are arranged when you are taking it apart, too. There's some tabs that interconnect with the plastic sliding things you removed in steps 46-47.

maccentric, · Reply

For the re-install, the cables that run along the sides of the LCD display do not follow the entire length of the display on either side. Both the iSight cable and the Airport antenna cables come away from the sides of the display about 3" from the corner where the hinges are. They move to the outside around the aluminum hinge supports. This is important so the cables do not get pinched and the bezel can snap into place.

kyoungdale, · Reply

Finding the correct route for these cables took some head scratching but the end result worked fine. In hindsight some more detailed pictures of the cable positioning when re-installing would be helpful. I also found that previous Apple authorised repairers had lost screws and removed tape, and charged me £400 for the priviledge.

Keir,

I replace the display but

now the screen shuts down when i opening

and power when i closed

HELP

how can i fix this ?

Alan Abimael Lechuga Martinez, · Reply

When I worked at an Apple Authorized Repair Center one thing I remember from this step was to make sure to remove this cable straight down because it is easy to bend and damage the connection.

nephite, · Reply

The iSight cable should be pulled down toward the bottom of the screen, not pulled up vertically away from the screen.

sbmonkey, · Reply

Do not forget the two square foam pieces at the bottom of the display. My new display did not have them.

huso, · Reply

If you're replacing the display then take the time to make sure you've trasfered anything across that you may need. For example there are two sticky foam blocks at the bottom corners. You can see them in the picture above

Marc Carroll, · Reply

I was able to successfully complete this guide and go all the way back putting the machine back together with a new LCD from iFixIt. Unfortunately the LCD was DOA. I tried the old broken LCD (it was cracked, but showed some graphics, so I know it worked as it should). Because the repair job was a rush job, I had to get a new LCD from elsewhere and completed it the first time. Needless to say, doing this guide 6 times I learned a lot about this little guy. Bad LCD purchase, but I think I'd still buy from iFixIt again--we just had bad luck with one part here.

John Adam Wickliffe, · Reply

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