Teardowns I've Worked On
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Guides I've Contributed To
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- I have found that I am unable to update my iPhone 3GS from 3.1.2 to 3.1.3. When choosing either to download and update or jus...
- I come across an absurd amount of stripped screws (Apple refurb machines often have stripped screws in them, as do other mach...
- I have an A500 Behringer power amp that will not power up. I replaced the power cord and fuse with known working ones, with n...
- I was foolish enough to buy a cheap floor lamp that, rather than having an on-off switch, is supposed to turn on and off when...
- The green "camera is on" iSight light to the right of the iSight is perpetually on! I know that the camera is not actually on...
- Hi Brian, Your guitar has what's called a truss rod running the length of the neck. There is a hex nut under a plastic cover on the headstock that gives access to this truss rod. Use the appropriate sized allen wrench (you do NOT want to strip the nut) and first loosen the truss rod (turn it 1/8 of a turn counterclockwis
e). Then, if you want lower action, adjust 1/8 of a turn at a time clockwise until you are happy with the result. If you want higher action, adjust 1/8 of a turn at a time counterclockwis e. Be warned that a stripped or broken truss rod results in a VERY expensive repair (usually the neck is replaced)! Good luck!
- Unfortunately, the connectors are not the same. Apple switched the connectors on fans, thermal sensors, and inverter to JST type connectors. You'd need to switch out all these components as well.
- I wouldn't be so confident without actual evidence. The memory boards on the 11" and 13" machines have different part numbers and are oriented 180-degrees differently. They may be identical and/or compatible, but a few thousand dollars in purchase is not an easy thing to drop on an assumption. In my experience disassembling most of Apple's laptops, the things they do not standardize between models are absurd. I would either wait for someone to test it out first, or roll the dice and try it yourself. Good luck!
- There are a few differences to account for: 1) The multitouch cable connector on the upper case has been relocated in the Rev.b machines, which makes connection difficult. 1) The black shielding on the lower case is slightly different. This may or may not affect compatibility. 1) The audio board is not compatible between models. You would need the correct audio board and cable for the appropriate logic board. 1) The hard drive connector, as you noted, is different and must be worked around. 1) The fan/heat sink are 2 separate pieces in Rev.b. 1) The airport/bluetoo
th cable is slightly different as well. I haven't actually performed the swap; these are just the physical differences. Good luck!
- The battery from the Mid-2009 version is labeled A1322 and has the APN 661-5229. It is 10.95 V and 60 Wh. The battery from the Mid-2010 version is ALSO labeled A1322 and has the APN 661-5557. It is 10.95 V and is bumped up to 63.5 Wh. It is fully compatible with your machine. As for iFixit's parts, these particular batteries are pulled directly from new or refurbished Apple machines. We mark them "used" because they came from a machine that was turned on for testing (much like a new car becomes a used car the second it is driven off the car lot). The mAh rating is represented on the part page as a range rather than a specific number, because these batteries, direct from Apple's machines, have a sizable variation in actual mAh from battery to battery.
- Sorry for the delay! The 620-3381-A upper case is for an A1150 model MBP 15". The Bluetooth board for the A1150 is in the lower case near the hard drive. The 620-3739-A upper case is for an A1211 model MBP 15". The Bluetooth board for this model was moved up to be attached to the upper case. The extra wires you see are for Bluetooth. As far as I know, the parts are also incompatible due to connector location and size. Your best bet is to return the part and purchase one from a trusted vendor that ensures compatibility. Sorry for the bad news!
- This may be more extensive than you're willing to go, but... If you follow this guide, you can remove the optical drive. From there, you can manipulate the white plastic sliders on the metallic side of the drive to slide the disc out. Alternatively, one the drive is removed, you have your choice of removing the screws on the metallic side of the drive, lifting up the casing, and pulling out the disc. I've also heard of people inserting another disc with double-sided tape on it into the slot and fishing the drive out, but I can't comment on whether this works or not. Good luck!
- Sorry for the delay! All the ports and screw holes are identical. HOWEVER, attempting to boot resulted in a kernel panic every time. I don't know why this causes kernel panics...it's very bothersome. Perhaps a fix I don't know about could prevent this. Sorry!
- You would need to replace a lot of parts, as the connectors on the A1151 are different from those on the rest of the original 17" MBP models. Also, the keyboard and left I/O board, while identical in form factor, are actually incompatible.
- A1151: 2.16 GHz Original Core Duo model with 667 MHz Bus, 2 GB max RAM, the ATI x1600 graphics chip, Bluetooth 2.0, and 2 antenna cables for 802.11g. A1212: 2.33 GHz Core 2 Duo model with 667 MHz Bus, 3 GB max RAM, the ATI x1600 graphics chip, Bluetooth 2.0, and 3 antenna cables for 802.11n. A1229: 2.4 or 2.6 GHz Core 2 Duo (Santa Rosa chipset) model with 800 MHz Bus, 6 GB max RAM, the NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GB (256 MB VRAM) graphics chip, Bluetooth 2.0, and 3 antenna cables for 802.11n. A1261: 2.5 or 2.6 GHz Core 2 Duo (Penryn) model with 800 MHz Bus, 6 GB max RAM, the NVIDIA GeForce 8600M (512 MB VRAM) graphics card, Bluetooth 2.1, and 2 antenna cables for 802.11n. The keyboard layout changed with different function keys, and the trackpad is multitouch. I hope this helps!!
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Quote from NikkiWraith:
Whatinhell is the second board by the PS? It's definitely something not seen before.
I believe that's the backlight board for the display.
Quote from UltraNEO:
Hiya, Is it physically impossible to dismantle the display section? As yet, I've not seen any images posted by anyone, not even yourselves.
The glass front panel is glued firmly to the rear panel. We haven't tried to liberate it. It is possible that heat might loosen the adhesive, but it's just as possible that the heat will smoke or break the glass. As far as I know, there isn't a feasible way to get in there.
A little trick I've found:
If your iPod Video boots for a second and then goes to either a restore icon, sad iPod icon, or folder icon; pay attention to how long it takes to display the icon. If it instantly goes to the icon, a logic board is more likely the problem. If it hangs on the Apple icon for a few seconds, a hard drive cable or hard drive is more likely to be the problem.