Installing MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Dual Hard Drive

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Use this guide to install a second hard drive in place of the optical drive.

There are many benefits to adding a second hard drive to your laptop such as improved speeds, greater storage space, and less heartache when installing new software. Use this guide to install one using our optical bay hard drive enclosure.

Relevant Parts
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Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

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Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge. This step is optional and is not required.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

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Edit Step 4 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the right speaker/subwoofer cable connector straight up off the logic board. Be careful not to lift the socket. Pull the connector toward the optical drive.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • It will be necessary to slide the small clear plastic cable retainer (boxed in red) glued to the logic board out of the way before disconnecting the camera cable. Be careful not to break any components off the board as you slide it away from the camera cable connector.

  • Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.

  • This socket is metal and easily bent. Be sure to align the connector with its socket on the logic board before mating the two pieces.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector straight up off the logic board.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive connector straight up off the logic board.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the subwoofer to the upper case. The right one is 5 mm and the left 3.9 mm.

  • The longer of the two screws is on the right.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • The subwoofer is still connected to the right speaker, so don't completely remove it just yet.

  • Lift the subwoofer off the optical drive, and set it above the computer.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 8.4 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case.

  • The right screw may remain captive in the camera cable.

  • Lift the camera cable bracket out of the upper case.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.

  • Lift the optical drive from its right edge and pull it out of the computer.

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Edit Step 12 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the optical drive cable by pulling it straight away from the optical drive.

  • This connector is particularly deep, so be sure to pull away from the drive at the center of the connector.

  • If you have a CD or any other object jammed in your optical drive, we have an optical drive repair guide.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.

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Edit Step 14 Dual Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the plastic spacer from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Make sure that the hard drive connectors are facing down before placing it into the enclosure.

  • Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot.

  • While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hard to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic spacer while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Use two Phillips #1 screws to secure the drive to its enclosure.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Attach the optical drive bracket to the new enclosure with two Phillips #0 screws.

  • Reconnect any cables you have removed from the original optical drive onto the optical bay enclosure.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Don't ditch that drive! You can still use your optical drive externally with the help of our SATA Optical Drive USB Cable.

  • Align the cable's SATA connector with the drive's port and plug in securely.

  • Plug the USB connector into your laptop and your optical drive is ready for use.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Please note this whole procedure can be completed without steps 4 and 5 see the OWC video guide. You should also be aware that the connector in step 5 is not just for the camerait also includes WiFi and Bluetooth - A laptop is not much use without WiFi!

This guide should be corrected as step 4 and 5 are not needed!!! I advise anyone following this guide to take a look at Other World Computing (OWC) video guide before attempting this upgrade.

Mort.

Saleem Yassin, · Reply

I agree. OWC instructions are simpler.

ftt, · Reply

I want to try this with a samsung 840 pro 128gb SSD.

But does it work with a 7mm drive?

Will the drive be able to move when installed?

Thanks!

Steven

Steven, · Reply

I followed your guide and when I opened the MBP I do not see Bluetooth (Not Available) and WiFi (No hardware Installed). What could be wrong?

Thank you.

Costas N Panagiotarakos, · Reply

It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

scott523, · Reply

The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

iphonetechtips,

Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

wertaerte, · Reply

Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

twisk, · Reply

thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

xitxit2,

i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

plins718, · Reply

Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

mastover, · Reply

I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

adlerpe,

The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

Eric Sorenson, · Reply

I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

jonathanmorgan, · Reply

why is step 3 necessary?

gansodesoya, · Reply

Quote from gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

MrKane, · Reply

Quote from gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

amiller770, · Reply

I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

shockaaa, · Reply

Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

Brian,

$@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

Lukas Besch, · Reply

You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

Logan Bean,

How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

Horace Chung, · Reply

yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

maccentric,

Step 4 is clearly wrong! You MUST NOT pry the right speaker/subwoofer cable connector straight up off the logic board! You must pull it toward the optical drive!!!

I followed your manual, pried it upwards and broke off the socket!

Jan, · Reply

how have you repaired it then?

Antonio Minnici,

Step 4 is correct as stated (pull up, not slide out). You'll definitely see this when you put it back in place, pushing down in socket not sliding in. Just be careful and use spudger (gently!) underneath wires as shown.

jgcolt, · Reply

I broke the socket, what can I do now? Can it be solded back?

borjadp1punto0, · Reply

Finally I had that socket solded back and the speaker is working again.

I think this cable is long enough and it could be possible to do this repair without the risk of pulling this socket.

borjadp1punto0,

I'm REALLY upset about this step. I put the optical drive in the computer in about fifteen minutes and have spent nearly THREE HOURS trying to get this right speaker connected to the motherboard--and to NO AVAIL. BYPASS THIS STEP UNLESS YOU'VE GOT SOLDERING EXPERIENCE.

LaMont Golden, · Reply

I was able to skip both steps 4 and 5 and still replace the optical drive. The subwoofer didn't come entirely free as described in step 9, obviously, so it was a little fiddly, but it worked.

Nate Cook, · Reply

how do you fix if you took the socket down? i did trying to unplug it. now my speaker won't sound

dukezsq, · Reply

When you put the Mac back together after this entire procedure, it's virtually impossible to get the camera cable reconnected because there is a small piece of plastic glued to the board to keep it from coming unplugged. An Apple store tech explained the piece of plastic and said it won't break anything if I pry it off the board. I did and then the cable connected easily.

karenz, · Reply

The retainer for the camera cable may be black as well as clear. It is much easier to remove and reinstall the retainer if the DVD drive cable is removed first.

MikeG, · Reply

I was able to skip both steps 4 and 5 and still replace the optical drive. The subwoofer didn't come entirely free as described in step 9, obviously, so it was a little fiddly, but it worked.

Nate Cook, · Reply

me too!... definitely a better decision to skip steps 4 and 5.

felipelyon,

In step 5 I made a mistake and now i have no WIFI, Bluetooth and iSight. Please be careful.

hannsim, · Reply

I couldn't reconnect this cable correctly, so my camera is not working anymore.

It doesn't matter to me, I didn't used the camera that often...

But the Ambient Light Sensor uses the camera to control keyboard lighting, so I wasn't able to see my keyboard in the dark anymore... :(

If you have the same problem, after a couple of google hits I've found this app: https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/22151/...

Problem solved! YAY!

PS: be careful because WIFI passes through this cable as well!!!!

simbass, · Reply

What's the exact length of those screws?

Martin, · Reply

For step 8, I found I had to use a Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove the two screws. I'm not sure if mine were just over-tightened, but I couldn't get the two screws off with a cheapo Radioshack #00 screwdriver or a nice Wiha one for the life of me without coming close to stripping them. Tried the #0 and they popped right out. Hope this helps.

Aaron B, · Reply

There's another type of bridge, black, with an extra piece of metal to hold the cable. You don't have to remove this bridge to unmount the optical drive.

Martin, · Reply

The bay and dvd drive cable at iFixit is $40.00 (http://www.ifixit.com/Apple-Parts/9-5-mm...)

But for $10 more you can get an external casing that will protect your super drive form MCE (http://store.mcetech.com/Merchant2/merch...) A total of $50 dollars. It is what I used and works great and looks pretty and is guaranteed to protect your superdrive. MCE also gives you a disk with software to patch the DVD Player to work with external dvd drives. So For an extra $10 dollars you get better software functionality and a case for your super drive. It works great.

Robert Wacker, · Reply

It is not a good idea to put fast SSDs into the optibay. System tries to negotiate at 6 Gbit, but it fails; disk is recognized but it couldn't even be formatted. I've waisted a lot of time to find a reason. After swapping SSD with original mac's HD both work properly, one at 6, another at 3 Gbit

nicholas, · Reply

No problems here with a Samsung EVO in the optical bay. Only downside that is not really fast (80-90 mb/s) but amazing performances on booting time, shut off and opening programs.

Mike, · Reply

I have to withdraw my comment. It is NOT a good idea to put a SATAIII SSD in the optical bay. It gives random freezes. Swapping it with a HD is indeed better. Better read/writes too. Only downside is that SMS won't work on the optical bay so treat your baby with care. Also Sleep issues might occur when placing a HD in the optical bay (a total freezing system). I already wasted a HD that was in the optical bay.

Mike, · Reply

I've replaced the optibay with a samsung 840 pro but can't format it nor copy files (a few files work) to it. Do you suggest putting the HDD in the optibay instead? Did you clone the HDD to the SSD before swapping them? Will my Mac boot from the HDD the first time I boot even though it's in the optibay? I would really appreciate an answer, I've spent too many hours trying to figure it out!

Carl, · Reply

Also had this same problem. Tried and failed a Samsung firmware upgrade. Ended up send drive back to Amazon.

Andrew,

Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!

Carl, · Reply

Make sure you have removed the 2 screws at the end of your super driver unit and move it to your NewHD bay with the metal piece eye loop.

Kamiiyu, · Reply

Normally with the HD enclosure there come a set of screws. use these to screw down the HD in the enclosure since you need to flip it up side down to reinstall it into the MBP

Bart, · Reply

Here they picture Crucial as their choice, you can also find some great options at Samsung (it is what I installed and it works just as good if not better than the crucial I installed in my wife's iMac. here is their site http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/solid...

Its just another great option. Also when installing SSDs make sure to enable TRIM support (crashes can and probably will occur if you don't) TRIM enabler is available free and the pro version is $10 http://www.cindori.org/software/trimenab... It is the easiest solution for this issue.

Robert Wacker, · Reply

With the particular drive bay adaptor I used, these attachment screws were already fitted to the adaptor but were found at the sides, not underneath. Indeed, the adaptor had no screw holes on the underside.

jjsanderson, · Reply

At first I couldn't get my machine to even turn on - thought it was the battery connector, but in the end I just had to reset the SMC. (http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964 - see "Resetting the SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own").

talksrealfast, · Reply

I have the drive installed with this bay, but the drive does not appear in the Disk Utility. I see a 'Nvidia MCP79 AHCI' in the system information, but no drive listed with it. Is there some special driver needed to get the MCP to see the drive?

toddfletcher, · Reply

Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.

claude, · Reply

it does not recognize the hard drive in the enclosure, what should i do?

elvin00, · Reply

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