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The Nintendo Switch is a handheld game console that can be played on the TV via a docking station, or on the go. Released March 3rd, 2017.

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Nintendo Switch not working after repair

This was my first time working on a switch. I had done work on joycons in the past but never the tablet part. I replaced the battery and the charging ic, and when I tested it it came to life with the Nintendo logo and then the low battery symbol. I plugged it in and let it sit for an hour or so. When I came back to it the switch wouldn't do anything, even with holding the power button to reset it. I used the original charger. Any idea on what could cause this?

I haven't tried docking it but I will when I get the chance. Thank you all for any responses that will help me with this.

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Hi Albert!

Best thing to do is to leave it for some hours now and to test it docked.

It could be a faulty battery or IC! Do you have more components to test? I would test the battery first as this one is easier. If you are facing the same issue, then it must be the charge IC.

Is it possible for you to charge the battery without using the Switch? Or do you have another Switch where you can charge the battery in? Then you also know for sure if the battery is fine or not. And when the battery is fully charger, try it in the current repaired Switch and see what happens.

I think those are the best ways to test it...

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Thanks for responding! I'll have to test that IC. I know the battery is ok because it is giving the right voltage.

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Alright, then probably it is the IC I'm afraid. Good luck and please let us know how it goes!

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Charging IC could have died again, check the battery voltage and if that checks out fine go ahead and make sure the IC was properly soldered back on. Seeing as it worked for a while it's unlikely that the soldering is bad. Check for shorts around the IC since most likely that's the issue. The reason the IC died in the first place was probably due to something else on the board, which did it again, or perhaps it was exposed to too much heat during soldering which caused it to work only temporarily.

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Thank you for responding! Do you know what other parts on the board could cause the IC to die? I will check for shorts and see if that is the issue. Also how much heat would you recommend for the soldering, I just used the default temperature on my hot air station.

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I'm not experienced when it comes to switch repairs so unfortunately I can't help you with the first one, a schematic would be useful but I doubt one exists publicly. As for soldering temperature, I like going with around 380c for leaded solder, If it's a thick board with a lot of layers then even up to 400c to 420c. The key is making sure that you don't hit the chip with air for longer than you have to as that's usually what kills them. Use a good amount of flux and if the board really likes to suck up heat, then it might be a good Idea to preheat it a little before soldering the chip on just by going around with hot air for a while to get the general area of where you're going to solder up to around 80c'ish. Best of luck and keep on practicing!

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Albert G will be eternally grateful.
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