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Repair and installation information for light bulbs and fixtures.

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Outdoor LED light fixture not working, AC power OK.

Hi all - hoping someone has an idea how to repair these outdoor mounted LED lights - They are permanently mounted for providing light in the front entrance area. For awhile they were intermittent, and now just dead. I have verified good AC power to the lights. Other lights and devices on the circuit work fine. I don’t see anything obviously wrong with them.

Anyone know of typical gotchas on these? Surface mount fuse or rectifier or something to look out for? Would like to be able to repair them rather than throw them away, they look great (when they work). I searched but it does not look like a common repair item (my luck…)

Loving this site, so far I’ve been able to resurrect an XBOX and a 1st gen Apple TV among other things - hoping to be able to contribute as time goes on.

Here is a picture of the installed light. I haven’t disassembled it yet, but I suspect its similar to any other. Been raining all day, but once it clears I’ll try to get more details.

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thanks!

adam

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Do you have any more information on this light fixture? Any pictures of what you are looking at? Could be an issue with the LED or the LED driver but we need to see more

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@oldturkey03 Hi Oldturkey - I just edited the OP just to give an idea of the style of light we are talking about. If it stops raining for any length of time, i'll get them apart and post more pics. Can you elaborate on the LED driver? Where does one get component-level parts for these things anymore?

wish I saw these reviews before we bought them... https://www.build.com/product/summary/14...

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Your LED needs a circuit that will enable it to turn your normal AC voltage in what it needs to start up since there are no 110V/22v (depends on where you live) LED's yet. It is most likely an inverter circuit etc. with multiple LED's. So ....you said it was getting dim first etc. sounds to me like the "LED driver board" will be part of the issue. Most of those boards are repairable if things are properly marked etc. SO, we'll need to see more so that we can help you with your repair. I'd expect to find something like this in your light

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OK - I bet that will get me on the right track! Assuming its the driver, I'll try to find a replacement/aftermarket one that is of higher quality than what they put in there to begin with. Stay tuned, will post pics etc once I have them apart.

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Ok sorry for the delay. double-checked the wiring, and the 120 VAC to the fixtures. Here are a couple of pics - looks like a sealed unit, and it seems like a bit of a burn just to the left of the fuse (F1). I don’t know if I can get it apart enough to test these or if i’d be better off looking for a replacement that will fit.

Pics in the OP -- it wouldn't let me upload into a comment.

Will keep y’all updated..

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Sorry for the delay guys - I managed to get it fixed. I unfortunately didn’t have the time or patience to chase down the components, but I was able to find some replacement 2” LED pucks for not too much, and they actually seem to be weather proof (or at least resistant). They don’t appear to make the ones that were in it anymore (probably for good reason), but the closest available replacements are actually sealed units and so won’t rely on the chintzy “sealing” of the fixture.

I removed the old ones, then had to drill and tap the inner plate so that I could mount the new ones. The B/W wires for power came out at 90 degrees rather than straight out the back, so I needed to drill a hole for that as well so they could pass through the back to the fixture mount.

Works perfectly now and has survived one thunderstorm so far!

I also managed to replace a battery and headphone jack in a Samsung Galaxy S8+, but that’s for another thread!

Anyway, all sorted out - hopefully someone will see this and not feel they have to throw away their outdoor LED fixtures!

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@Adam Yavner

With the power disconnected, place an Ohmmeter across the LED with the black dot (burn mark?) which is above the 2nd E in the word ZEGALED above the F1 fuse and make sure that it is not open circuit.

Remember that a LED is a diode so connect the meter both ways i.e. test once and then reverse the meter test leads and test again, to check for continuity in one direction or check another LED and see if they measure the same. Apologies if you knew this already

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I'm wondering if the LEDs are in series connection and one o/c LED will stop the rest from turning on.

If you haven’t got an Ohmmeter you could try shorting out the LED with an alligator clip or solder a wire across it and then reconnect the power and check if the other LEDs come on. Hopefully they should only be a fraction brighter.

Be safety aware as the AC voltage is close by: Don’t touch the light with the power connected and disconnect the power before touching the light again

To me the brown mark you mentioned could be solder flux residue

FYI images can't be posted in comments on Ifixit , only in questions (and also answers) as you've found out ;-)

Cheers

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