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tuningdude
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Screen stays black after digitizer replacement

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I successfully replaced the Digitizer of a customer with the soldering method.

I connected everything and tested and it was succesful except the home button. I disconnected the digitizer flex and the screen flex and the battery also. Now wanted to test again and connected everything. I wanted to turn on the Mini, but only had sound and no screen. The screen stays black.

ITunes recognises the Ipad Mini and I did a DFU in hope that would work, but no success. NO SCREEN.

What can I do? Battery is 100% charged says iTunes.

Edited by: tuningdude ( ) , Kyle Wiens ( )

Do you see picture just no backlight?

YoloRepair ca,

If I push the powerbutton, the Apple logo apears, but no backlite. Just seen this with the screen turned up into the sun.

tuningdude,

I need a clear picture of the fuse that must be jumped, or how to use the Bare Conductive Pen to create a jump across the fuse to "what?".

Chester Henry,

Replaced touch screen. Now have no picture. What fuse do in have to bypass. Can you post a picture or video. Thanks for the help

Nick,

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YoloRepair ca
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make the jumper or replace the fuse

Edited by: oldturkey03 ( ) , YoloRepair ca ( )

thx for the reply, the screen seems to be working normal today. I ignored the Ipad yesterday and this morning it was just fine. Just the digitizer seems to be not working on a small area on the top were you need to slide to power off. Could that be a bad soldering on the flat cable?

tuningdude,

More than likely it's a bad soldering but in the process it may have been damaged so you may need a new digitizer.

YoloRepair ca,

Hello, Just a question about the non-working backlight. I have the same problem. Where the fuse that I should replace?

Lim NAM,

YoloRepair ca ,,,so if I'm seeing your pic correctly I would need to jump the 3 points outlined in green ????

Mitch Rush,

I cannot stress this enough. Restart the ipad by holding the power button and home button OR unplug and replug the battery. If that fails If you look at the pic I posted the green line is the path the line takes. The red line is the fuse (you're essentially bypassing it - you could replace it) if its blown replace or bypass. Having a multimeter is crucial for this type of work. Otherwise you could damage the ipad further. Plus it will help you determine what is at fault (most times it's the fuse) Strong soldering skills are a must.

YoloRepair ca,

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Ryan
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Wow.... Ok let me sum this up so no more people are confused by this pic. The path of the electricity to operate the back light follows the green line from the top right of the pic thru the fuse marked in red to the connector. To bypass the fuse all you have to do is lay a bead of solder on top of the fuse that connects the left and right side of the fuse pad. You do not need jumper wires or anything else. If you want the correct fix, replace it. But this works as I have done it before. You can test the fuse for an open first with a multimeter to make sure this is the issue you are having. Put the meter on the continuity setting, touch the right side of the fuse with one lead and the left side of the fuse with the other lead. If you have no continuity then lay solder across the top of the fuse, making a bridge for the electricity to flow past it. If you have continuity (usually .02-.03 ohms) your problems is somewhere else in the circuit.

To add to this: the fuse is there for protection just like any fuse is in any electrical circuit. It you successfully bypass it with the solder method, make sure you don't make the same mistake again as you may end up with irreparable board damage. What causes this problem to happen in the first place? Good question. It's caused by disconnecting the screen while the iPad powered or possibly turning on the iPad on accident while the screen is unplugged. Easy solution is to have to make sure that you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the LCD connector and reconnecting the battery after the LCD has been reconnected to the board during reassembly.

Edited by: Ryan ( )

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Ryan
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Martin, there are "fingers" on the sheild that wrap around the frame that supports it. Use a pick or fine tweezers an pop them up while working your way around it.

Ryan, is there any possible way we could send these broken iPads into you to have you fix this problem so many of us are having?

brandonjackso123,

Brandon, YES I will help anyone out who may need it. If you want to send the entire unit with the replacement parts, I can send it back repaired and looking professionally serviced. I can replace the digitizer whether it is the full assembly (which includes the IC chip and home circuit pre-installed) or if its just the digitizer itself and swap over your old IC chip and circuit. If a broken digitizer wasn't your problem, that's ok too. I can replace any part whether it be a charge port, battery, power flex cable, headphone jack, camera etc. Anyone can e-mail me for contact information or even if you just have a question.

Ryan,

Ryan, I ran a line of solder across the fuse and it worked like a charm! Thanks for the help!!

Dale,

Dale, glad to hear about your sucess but I can't take all the credit. I just wanted to further elaborate on what was going on.

Ryan,

Also guys there is a trace pen available that should also work on bypassing the fuse. It's used in place of soldering if you don't have the correct size tip or skill set. A small dab on top should do the trick. Sorry I didn't think of it til now. I believe Radio Shack sells it but you can find it online. It leaves behind metallic particles to make a conductive path.

Ryan,

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jessabethany
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Here is a close up of the iPad mini backlight fuse---ideally you would replace it for a robust long lasting solution which is very straightforward to do with the right equipment and experience. If you insist on jumping it, you would need to lay a bead of solder across the top of this component with the red arrow.

Keep in mind--this picture is an image that I took to send to a customer that came to me from this very thread that knocked off the two essential components circled in red while digging around trying to make the jumper. The capacitor just to the right of the backlight fuse is only found on the iPad mini and the iPad 4 and is difficult to source if you damage it and have to replace it. The capacitor on the left is essential and required. The two small components that are missing in this picture are also essential and must be replaced, not jumped, if they are damaged. These "DIY rescue" repairs can quickly get very expensive so BE CAREFUL!!

jessa

Update: DIY iPad mini backlight repair... I have three iPad mini's now from folks from this very thread that have tried to jump the backlight fuse and then ended up knocking off tiny components around that area. One of them didn't even realize that he'd knocked off a resistor and capacitor in front of the fuse just by probing it. Another knocked off four small resistors at the power button side of the board under some tape just from trying to remove the shield. Another thought he could just jump a nearby tiny resistor that fell off and shorted the LCD voltage to ground! Sourcing and replacing these missing components can be a HUGE drag--especially if the solder pads are torn and a line must be traced to the previous component in that trace. Ugh! Tedious hours of work. It is *so* easy to do the repair correctly and replace the fuse with the right tools. I use a Hakko FM 2023 mini hot tweezer and a microscope to desolder some of the shield, and then pinch the tiny fuse, pop it off. Pinch the new fuse, pop it on. Done. It takes about an hour to do it complete with testing, I can send it back open or sealed with your screen. Give me a shout if you don't want to take the risk of this going down the rabbit hole. If you are going to take a stab at it--BE CAREFUL. USE MAGNIFICATION. and of course first try the steps above that m0t3x outlined! If you do end up knocking off components, then I can still help you now that I've done these other three.

jessabethany,

A full dozen minis have come to me for DIY rescue repair from this thread, and I finally got one I couldn't save. Death by RadioShack conductive pen "bare paint". That stuff made a massive short and since it wasn't solder, I t wouldn't come off without tearing up the mask and exposing copper. If you'd like a little help replacing your fuse feel free to contact me via my profile.

jessabethany,

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Craig
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On the iPad mini anytime you unplug the LCD you must unplug the battery and plug it back in or that will happen. Please don't do all the things others may tell you to do to it unless you really can afford to buy anther one. I do this everyday simple is always the best place to start.

Edited by: Craig ( )

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Chris Pletz
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Disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for about 90-120 seconds worked for me! Thanks for whoever mentioned that.

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Cuppacheese
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Jumping the backlight filter is a bad idea guys--that will likely cause you (or your customer's) backlight coil to fail prematurely. This is especially true if you are putting a mini back together and testing your digitizer soldering job, home button etc and keep plugging/unplugging the LCD. The filter is an easy part to replace--about $5 on eBay. In fact, replacing the whole backlight coil, filter, and ic is less than $20 for parts cost and takes just a few minutes with a hot air station and a little experience. The mini does seem particularly sensitive to the sudden change in voltage that comes from unplugging the LCD. I've learned this the hard way!

Anyone on the East Coast that needs some help with a backlight repair--feel free to contact me: jessabethanyATgmail

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artemarva
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good news everyone. i bought a conductive paint from radioshack, $10. got into the logic board and used a needle to place a TINY glob over the red filter in the picture above. fixed the problem. I don't know how to solder. works fine so far.

Update

here's the link to radioshack product

Edited by: artemarva ( )

Be CAREFUL with this product. I have now had two mini's come in that we're completely shorted out after using this.

jessabethany,

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mandof5
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I had the same exact problem with the backlight. I replaced my digitizer due to a cracked screen and then the backlight went out. I unplugged the battery, then I unplugged the LCD, put it back together and it worked! Make sure your LCD cable is fully seated in the slot.

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m0t3x
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Steps you should take before advanced soldering techniques.

1. Hold Power and Home Button for Hard Reset

2. Unplug battery cable, reconnect, power on

3. Check your LCD connector for damage, dirt, metal, lint, etc

a. Check LCD connector on the motherboard for same

4. Curse yourself for not unplugging the battery while working on it

5. Multi meter the green traces that YoloRepair pointed out

6. Perform a fuse replacement, or a jump. - Recommended you seek pro help, because this type of repair requires a stereoscope and a extremely steady hand with soldering skills.

-----------------------------------------------

Making Jumper Steps

1. Make sure it's that part - http://i39.tinypic.com/3130ry8.jpg

2. Give yourself access to both side, I made small cut on shield

3. Remove blown fuse, replace or jump. I chose jump - http://i44.tinypic.com/2lbno5k.jpg

4. Test - WOOHOO! Thanks YoloRepair <3 - http://i39.tinypic.com/2924cyb.jpg

5. Clean excess flux and leave repair area in best shape possible - http://i40.tinypic.com/mbtok3.jpg

6. Test everything again, close it, and get sigh of relief.

7. Thank YoloRepair once more.

Edited by: m0t3x ( )

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Jesse
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Guys avoid these problems! Always always disconnect the battery before disconnecting any other cable. As for the the digitizer going crazy after installation always be sure to place a PC of kapton tape over the flex next to the home button. Cover all the exposed chips.

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sotilrac
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I replace my digitizer and follow all the steps, but when i test it by turning it on didn't shows anything, was just black but Itunes recognize it when I plug it, so I was so mad and leave it in my desk because was 3:30 am next day I went to work and when I come back home the ipad was working just fine..

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Natasha
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I had changed the screen on a iPad mini and cracked it by force by home button as I went to take it back off to replace it, I disconnected the battery an it sort of sparked ?? Please help me I can hear it wen the charger gets connected but no light or anthin happens?

If your iPad is recognized by iTunes, that tells you that it is on and working, just no backlight. In that case, from your description you've blown the backlight fuse and need to have it replaced by a professional, (feel free to contact me via my profile) or you could try to jump the backlight fuse as discussed in this thread, although I have a stack of 8 iPad mini's right on this very desk that had to have serious board-level repairs done after a failed attempt to jump the fuse.

jessabethany,

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FARHAAD PATEL
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thank u,this helped

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