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RIDGID X4 18V Lithium-Ion Impact Driver Troubleshooting

Model number R86034

LED Light Won't Turn Off ¶ 

Nothing will turn the light off short of taking the battery pack out.

LED's Light Timer Hasn't Finished ¶ 

The button flush to the handle of the driver activates a timer which controls how long the LED will stay on. Before trying to repair your LED, wait over 20 seconds since it could be that the switch hasn't timed out yet.

LED Light Timer Assembly Is Broken ¶ 

If waiting doesn’t work, the wiring and chip responsible for the timing to the light is broken, please refer to the wiring diagram in the Parts List to replace the timing chip.

LED Light Won't Turn On ¶ 

Even when you press the button flush to the handle of the driver, the light won’t turn on.

Battery Pack Isn't Charged ¶ 

Press the button on the front of the battery pack and you should see at least one out of the 4 orange LEDs illuminate. If not, try charging the battery overnight and check again in the morning. You can also use a voltmeter to check that the battery has approximately 18V across the positive and negative terminals.

LED Is Dead ¶ 

Replace your LED following our instructions on the LED replacement guide.

Driver Won’t Stop When Trigger Is Released ¶ 

The driver continues to spin even though the trigger has been released.

Trigger Is Dirty ¶ 

The trigger might just be sticky. Clean the trigger, but make sure not to get water on the driver. If it the trigger is still stuck down, try opening up the driver to see if the trigger is caught on anything.

Wiring Has a Discontinuity or Corrosion ¶ 

Drivers stop spinning by reversing polarity, so if the trigger is functioning fine it is time to open up your driver and check the wiring. When opening up the driver make sure that the battery is unplugged. Check to see if there are any stripped wires or short circuits. Refer to RIDGID's wiring guide in order to fix any wiring diagram found in the Parts List. You can also refer to the wiring diagram which can be accessed on RIDGID's web page for the impact driver.

Driver Won’t Change Speed ¶ 

The driver doesn’t spin at the desired speed.

Battery Pack Isn't Charged ¶ 

Press the button on the front of the battery pack and you should see at least one out of the 4 orange LEDs illuminate. If not, try charging the battery overnight and check again in the morning. You can also use a voltmeter to check that the battery has approximately 18V across the positive and negative terminals.

Trigger Is Stuck ¶ 

There might be something lodged in the trigger. Open up the driver and clean any debris or dirt that might be causing the trigger to be stuck. The trigger should be able to be pressed down all of the way in order to get higher speeds.

Trigger Assembly is Broken ¶ 

If your battery is charged and your trigger is clean, it’s time to replace your Trigger Assembly.

Direction of Rotation Won’t Switch or Is Reversed ¶ 

The driver won’t change direction, or spins opposite the intended direction.

Direction of Rotation Switch Is Broken ¶ 

Check the direction of rotation switch for debris and anything that could be hindering its normal motion. If nothing is stuck, and the switch is free to move, but the direction of rotation doesn’t switch, then it’s time to replace your switch. Please refer to our guide on replacing the direction switch.

Wiring Has a Discontinuity or Corrosion ¶ 

Electric motors spin in a certain direction according to the polarity of the electricity being supplied to them. It could be that the wires were connected to the won terminals. Please refer to the wiring diagram which can be accessed on RIDGID's Part List.

Bit Is Wobbly ¶ 

When rotating the bit seems to wobble.

Bit Isn't Centered or Isn't Properly Seated ¶ 

Your bit will seem to wobble if it isn't correctly seated in the chuck. Take the bit out and re-seat it. Make sure that the chuck has a firm hold on the bit.

Driver Overheats When Running at Low Speeds ¶ 

The motor is physically hot to the touch and will not run after prolonged use at this temperature.

Wiring Has a Discontinuity or Corrosion ¶ 

Electrical components heat up with use naturally because the energy of electron flow is dissipated a heat when it flows through circuits. Sometimes, the wiring in electrical components can add to the heat because of bad connections and/or corrosion. Please refer to the wiring diagram which can be accessed on RIDGID's Part List.

Brushes Are Old ¶ 

Most electric motors have components called brushes that are necessary for the motor to work. Brushes need to remain in contact with the motor and can wear out, so sometimes they need to be replaced. Please refer to our guide on replacing the motor.

Motor Is Broken ¶ 

Other parts inside the motor can wear out as well, but do so after a much longer period of time. The solution is to replace the motor.

2 Comments

What to do when the chuck release doesn't work -- can't get a hex bit out of it??

Paul Rude - Reply

I have the same problem. Bit won`t come out.

R Beckman - Reply

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