Guides I've Contributed To

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  • Answer to: Water damage Apple sceen only

    A lot of things could go wrong with water damage. Seems it is going in a loop since it can not verify the components needed to go on with booting. Did you open up the phone to inspect any corrosion? What did you do when you had the water damage?
  • Answer to: Upgrade to Mid 2012 2.8GHz logic board?

    It will probably not fit physically, e.g. the 2012 has Thunderbolt ports which yours does not have. Also you would have a problem with the connections from the screen to the communications board (bluetooth, wifi). The cables will be too long or too short. Also the SATA cable will not connect.
  • Answer to: Why won't my phone stay on after it powers up

    Does it also shut down if you have a charger connected?
  • Answer to: LCD Screen black and front glass is cracked

    The touch screen can work even if it is cracked but if the LCD is damaged in any area it needs to be replaced.
  • Answer to: iMac, crazy fans and no screen!

    What model is this? You can check with the serial number on the bottom of the foot. Go to this page and choose "Browse by product" and enter your serial number. If someone has opened it and you say the the screen cable (LVDS) was damaged, it seems it maybe was not inserted correctly on the logic board side. Also it could be damaged again inserting it incorrectly. If you can open the iMac and tilt the screen so you can see the 4 LED lights beside the LVDS connector you can tell us what light are on. LED 1, 2 and 3 should light up. Then LED 4 should light up and then off. The crazy fan blowing indicates that a cable is not attached correctly, maybe the temp sensor to the hard drive or LCD. Take a look at this guide and check that all the cables are attached. Could be going over the cables again could solve your problem.
  • Answer to: iMac mid 2011 21inch black screen after cpu upgrade

    I would put back the original CPU to see if all is good again. I am not sure the logic board can handle 95w. That is a lot more than 65w. I had the same issue with 2010 iMac i3 upgrading. Even if the CPU fits physically you can as everymac.com writes: "...one only can upgrade the processor in an Aluminum iMac with a socket-compatible processor that has the same, or lower, TDP as the originally installed processor." So it can be that the BTO i7 model has different specs. I searched but could not find anyone that successfully upgraded the 2011 iMac 21.5" from i5 to i7 CPU. Of course there can be reasons for the fans blowing, - the CPU temp cable is loose - the LCD temp cable or other cables are loose
  • Answer to: Sony Xperia Z3 compact replacing screen including frame and housing

    I did this myself. It was very easy I think. Use this guide and follow to step 3. Remember to move over the parts missing on the new part. You could look at this guide to replace mid frame. I think you will understand which parts to move over. The battery is glued to the logic board and is very easy to get out. The clue here to ensure the X3 Compact is waterproof again is to seal the back cover right. There are some original Sony adhesive on Ebay for the back cover so I ordered it also. I thought maybe I would have to use that instead of the adhesive that was on the OEM back cover I ordered. In fact I did not use it (as was recommended from some posts). Be sure to clean any left over adhesive from the frame where the back cover sits. Use some alcohol to clean the edges. Then remove the adhesive film and seat the back cover. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the edges. Put pressure on all edges until it cools. I put som heavy weight on the phone to make sure it sealed while it cooled. To test if your Z3 Com...
  • Answer to: iMac changing processor to i7

    The CPU is on a Penryn CPU on a ZIF socket. You can take a look here on an upgrade article: http://hexus.net/tech/features/systems/1...-when-intel-core-2-duo-x7900-just-fast-enough-upgrading-imac-penryn-cpu/?page=2 You could upgrade to the 45nm Q-Spec (qualification) 2.8GHz Penryn (X9000) og 3.06 GHz Penryn. That is technically possible. But the speed gain will be about 10%. Not sure if that justifies the work. Something always can go wrong tearing these iMacs apart (my own sad experience).
  • Answer to: front panel/digitizer for ipad a1475

    Take a look at this guide. iPad Air Wi-Fi Front Panel Assembly Replacement For parts you can buy this part: iPad Air Front Panel Digitizer Assembly or do an Ebay search for "ipad air digitizer". I prefer to buy with home button already installed.
  • Answer to: Erratic touchscreen behavior after replacement.

    Hi, take a look at this post and it may be helpful with a picture of how the digitizer cable should fold in. I screwed up 2 digitizers this way until I understood the problem. https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/2176...

Notes

  • iPad 3 4G Home Button Assembly Replacement

    Position the home button and push the panel onto it. Remove the portion of film from the digitizer, adhesive from the home button, then push down in place the bottom of the screen so the home button sticks to the digitizer. If you position the home button on the digitizer it will be more trial and error.

  • iPod Touch 4th Generation Front Panel Replacement

    Remember to move the metal latch at the top of the screen to the replacement screen. I had to use this to keep it in place or else the screen bulges at the top. Also there is no notice about adhesive but I bought new adhesive to keep the new screen attached.

    This iPod is one piece of fragile electronics. I agree everything about the 4th gen. iPod Touch is extremely difficult!

  • iPod Touch 4th Generation Front Panel Replacement

    At this step is when you should test that the touch and LCD are working before you assemble back the parts. Be very careful when you plug in the cable for the LCD before you assemble the iPod. I have several times bent a pin on the contact on the motherboard. This could make the display white.

    If you see a bent pin on the LCD contact on the logic board you must carefully bend it back with a needle. If you break a pin you are lost and you need a new contact. And finding someone who is skilled to solder it!

    So do not use any force to get the LCD cable into the contact. Gently! Now if the screen still is white and you are sure the contact is not damaged, do like @mcbohdo and do a total reset of the iPod.

  • iPod Touch 4th Generation Front Panel Replacement

    Hi, take a look at my post here to make sure you have moved over old parts from the broken screen assembly because these are not included when you buy a new part:

    '''http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/55811...

  • iPod Touch 4th Generation Front Panel Replacement

    Make sure the digitizer cable is folded in and doe not prevent the screen from sitting down. Also do not move the metal bracket near the camera to the new screen. Check for old broken glass parts along the edges. Also check that the speaker at the bottom has not moved up. It must go to the bottom of the case and not bulge up.

  • iPod Touch 4th Generation Front Panel Replacement

    No, not really. It has a function to spread and remove heat so your iPod could get hotter if it is not in place. If you have torn it. Just lift it up and put it together so it overlaps.

  • iPod Touch 4th Generation Front Panel Replacement

    So you have checked there are no glass pieces left on the frame. The problem getting the screen flush in the frame is mostly 2 things. 1 - the digitizer ribbon cable is not folded correctly under the top. 2 - the speaker is raised and need to be pushed down. I would also check that if you moved the metal part around the camera from the old screen, this could be bent. I usually leave that piece behind even if I agree that the top right corner then is a bit vulnerable to pressure. I have had no issues with that.

  • iPod Touch 4th Generation Front Panel Replacement

    Pressing hard down on any screen will give pressure points but this sounds like a bad part. If it seems flush to the frame it should not be easy to get the white pressure points. I would suggest replacing the screen/glass.

  • iPhone 3G Dock Connector Replacement

    Take a look at the small spacer just below the "4" connector. Some dock connectors out there do not have the small spacer. I experienced a couple of times that the (4) cable had popped out of the connector after using the phone for some days. The cable is a little stiff. The small spacer helps press down the cable onto the connector so it doesn't jump out.

  • iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Front Panel Replacement

    When closing the digitizer it is essential that you have tucked the digitizer cable into the opening between the frame and the LCD. Or else you can experience a small raise on the digitizer where the cable goes down.

    - Be careful that the adhesive along the panel does not stick to the cable

    - Position to close the side of the panel where the cable is

    - Use the plastic opening tool to fold in the cable underneath the LCD. This cable is more robust than e.g. the iPad Mini digitizer cable. There is an opening between the frame and the LCD where the cable runs down to the logic board

    - Make sure the cable is running downward into the iPad. There should be no folded cable on the frame but into the gap.

    Close the side and adjust the panel to the other side and position it in place. This way you avoid any bulge on that side of the digitizer and it will sit perfectly.