Teardowns I've Worked On

Guides I've Contributed To

Completed Guides


  • Answer to: Low battery warning alert

    If you have any warranty coverage for your device try to have it replaced before attempting any reapir on your own. In addition, it may sound stupid, but try shutting off the Paperwhite and restarting. Hold the power button down until the screen goes completely blank. Then restart it. You could have a malfunctioning wall outlet adapter, a damaged USB cord, a damaged USB port on the Paperwhite, or a bad battery. You will have to swap some things around to find the trouble. If you are charging using a wall outlet adapter try connecting to a computer or laptop with the USB cord, or if you are charging from a computer or laptop try charging from a wall outlet adapter. Try a different USB cord if you have one. If none of this changes anything and if the Paperwhite is not recognized when you plug it into a computer or laptop you may have a damaged USB port on your Paperwhite. Has the cord been yanked while charging? Has the Paperwhite been dropped? Does the USB port feel loose when you insert or remove the cord? A ...
  • Answer to: Can the USB socket be replaced without replacing the motherboard?

    The USB socket is soldered to the motherboard, so it can not be easily replaced without replacing the motherboard. In theory the socket could be replaced with some careful soldering work if you could get your hands on a replacement socket. For someone experienced with replacing small components on circuit boards I'm sure it would be possible, but if you are a beginner with this sort of thing you may do more damage to the circuit board by overheating it. Look closely at the photos in this guide before deciding to try this repair.
  • Answer to: Can you reuse the double sided adhesive holding the glass panel down?

    Replacing just the glass cover on your display assembly is a difficult task. If you have not already, take a look at this guide. The procedure for removing the display assembly from the computer will be different on a MacBook Pro 13" mid 2012, but the procedure for separating the front glass is the same. iFixit doesn't sell the front glass or the adhesive anymore. A quick internet search for "MacBook Pro 13 display glass" turned up several sources, and some of them, have adhesive included. It is very unlikely that the old adhesive will be in any shape to reuse when you get the old glass off. It is an easier but far more expensive repair to replace the whole display assembly. Replacing just the glass requires tons of patience removing the broken pieces and all the left over adhesive, and the result may not be aesthetically pleasing. Getting it all back together like the original assembly with no lumps can be challenging. Good luck on your repair!
  • Answer to: Will replacing the upper case fix my problem?

    Unfortunately, the answer is maybe. Replacing the upper case is not an easy repair. Have a look at this guide if you are thinking of doing it. Read through all the steps so you get an idea of what you are getting into. Whether this would fix the problem depends on how much liquid got into the guts of your machine and how far it went. You won't know that answer until you open the case. If the liquid is only in the keys and track pad you may be in luck and the repair should fix the problems. On the other hand, if you find the logic board and other components covered in sticky residue you may have corrosion happening in the connectors between parts. If you want to give this repair a try read this guide too. If liquid got all the way down into the little connectors, turning on and using your computer before doing a thorough cleaning may be encouraging more corrosion. So if you think you are up for the repair do it sooner rather than later and leave the computer off until you can do the cleaning.
  • Answer to: Does the 2014 MBA use the same display as the 2013 MBA

    The display assembly for the 11-inch Mid 2013 and Early 2014 MacBook Airs share the same part number. Aside from the logic boards the internal parts for these two models are the same and/or are interchangeable<wbr />. I have not had the opportunity to check the part numbers between the 13-inch Mid 2013 and Early 2014 models yet, but I expect to find the same result.
  • Answer to: logic board interchangeability with 13"

    Unfortunately, the logic boards are quite different between the two case sizes and are not interchangeable<wbr />.
  • Answer to: How do you replace the power/hold button?

    The power and hold button is part of the headphone jack assembly and they share a ribbon cable. We are out of stock on this part but you may be able to find it elsewhere. There is no guide specifically for replacing the power button but the guide for installing iPhone 1st Generation Headphone Jack covers replacing the power button too.
  • Answer to: Unable to remove display assembly

    I tried to reproduce your situation to see if I could remove the front panel assembly without using a suction cup. I was able to open the phone by prying in the narrow gap filled by the gasket between the metal bezel and the bottom edge of the front panel assembly. Plastic opening tools were not up to the task, but the pointed end of a metal spudger did the trick. An iSesamo would probably work well too. Any metal tool with a thin and flexible enough end might work but I would avoid knives or razor blades. These are brittle and may snap, flinging sharp nasty bits into your eyes. Use caution when poking and prying as there are tiny electronic components on the dock connector close to the bottom edge. The left edge of the photo for step 12 of this guide shows the components to avoid. Wear safety glasses and be aware that the front panel assembly edge gasket will be badly damaged.
  • Answer to: Two left over black spacers - where do they go?

    You can see one of these spacers in Step 19 of this guide. It is at the edge of the blue logic board near the top right of the photo. Both spacers are on the edge of the logic board on the side nearest the display. If you squint at the photo for step 20 you can see both of these spacers partly hidden by the orange circles at the top center of the photo.
  • Answer to: HELP! White tab fell off of Hard Drive before removed...

    This will probably require getting deeper into the guts of your laptop, but if you wish to avoid this you could first try to get a grip on the Hard Drive Bracket. The bracket is the thin piece of metal visible in step 5 of the Hard Drive Replacement Guide. The space between the hard drive and the laptop's lower case is very slim so you would need pliers or tweezers with wide and thin flat jaws. If the hard drive is out part way this will be easier. If the drive is still all the way in and if the tab tore off with some force it is unlikely that you will get enough grip to remove the hard drive. If there is no way to grip the hard drive bracket then you can follow the Hard Drive Connector Guide to step 13. At that point you should be able to slide the hard drive out with out the white tab. This does require opening the case, a moderately difficult task. Look over the guide steps before you begin and look over the tools required for the job. Good Luck!