Introduction

The Libretto is the father of today's netbooks, this little laptop can support up to 32MB of RAM memory and 2GB of HD. There's the support for an external screen thanks to his docking-station, and it has a bundled floppy drive too!

Difficulty: Medium

Special: Comparison between Libretto and iPod Touch!

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Toshiba Libretto 50CT, use our service manual.

Image 1/3: This is very small, the dimensions are about 21x11,5x3 Image 2/3: The best OS fitting inside it is Windows 95, the base RAM is 16Mb (yes, that's 16!) and the bundled HD has 810Mb of memory. Image 3/3: There is no floppy integrated, only a PCMCIA slot, a IR port mapped as COM2, a mini-jack for audio (back), a speaker, the power connector and the base attachment.
  • Say "Hello" to Libretto!

    • This is very small, the dimensions are about 21x11,5x3

    • The best OS fitting inside it is Windows 95, the base RAM is 16Mb (yes, that's 16!) and the bundled HD has 810Mb of memory.

    • There is no floppy integrated, only a PCMCIA slot, a IR port mapped as COM2, a mini-jack for audio (back), a speaker, the power connector and the base attachment.

    • The screen is about 6", 16-bit color, the backlit is powered by a neon light as usual in LCDs.

Hello Libretto!

Miroslav Djuric - Reply

Now I discovered that it's not enough illuminated... I have to buy a good lamp.

Mc128k - Reply

DO you think is possible to "upgrade" the speaker, or perhaps adding a 2nd one on the other side of the screen, making it stereo?

Thank you.

georgekgrace - Reply

The only upgrade I am thinking about is a real computer. There is no space for a speaker here, and besides that the audio would suck equally.

mc128k -

Image 1/3: It's like nowadays notebooks, move the slide-button and pull the battery. Image 2/3: The battery-pack contains 9 batteries, as usual 1.2v each 1200mAh; that makes 10.8v, enough to power the HDD, the PCMCIA, the screen and the processor at the same time. Image 3/3: The model number is: PA2497U
  • Before starting with screwdrivers it's better to remove first the battery.

    • It's like nowadays notebooks, move the slide-button and pull the battery.

    • The battery-pack contains 9 batteries, as usual 1.2v each 1200mAh; that makes 10.8v, enough to power the HDD, the PCMCIA, the screen and the processor at the same time.

    • The model number is: PA2497U

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Image 1/3: Unscrew at the seven indicated points with a cross phillips screwdriver. Image 2/3: Remove the HDD door and put it apart. Image 3/3: Same thing for the two screws situated in the back.
  • Now it's time to remove some screws.

    • Unscrew at the seven indicated points with a cross phillips screwdriver.

    • Remove the HDD door and put it apart.

    • Same thing for the two screws situated in the back.

      • Looks like one is missing? mumble, mumble...

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Image 1/3: With a flat screwdriver pull up the bar upon the keyboard. Image 2/3: Remove the one screw that holds the keyboard, and carefully pull it up. Image 3/3: Remove the one screw that holds the keyboard, and carefully pull it up.
  • DO NOT TRY TO OPEN, we still have to remove the keyboard.

    • With a flat screwdriver pull up the bar upon the keyboard.

    • Remove the one screw that holds the keyboard, and carefully pull it up.

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Image 1/3: Unscrew and pull the ribbons. Image 2/3: Open the connector and pull out the cable Image 3/3: Open the connector and pull out the cable
  • The keyboard itself is held by two ribbons attached to the frame by screws and, of course, the data cable.

    • Unscrew and pull the ribbons.

    • Open the connector and pull out the cable

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Image 1/2: After that the metal cover can be token apart. Image 2/2: After that the metal cover can be token apart.
  • There are four screws that have to be removed with a phillips screwdriver.

  • After that the metal cover can be token apart.

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Image 1/3: Unlock the two interlockings with applying pressure as shown in the photo. Image 2/3: Now raise the upper part and... [wow] Image 3/3: Now raise the upper part and... [wow]
  • Time to open the lower part.

    • Unlock the two interlockings with applying pressure as shown in the photo.

    • Now raise the upper part and... [wow]

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Image 1/3: When reassembling pay attention to the little L-shaped iron part on the heaphones jack, put it back as shown in pict.3 Image 2/3: When reassembling pay attention to the little L-shaped iron part on the heaphones jack, put it back as shown in pict.3 Image 3/3: When reassembling pay attention to the little L-shaped iron part on the heaphones jack, put it back as shown in pict.3
  • Detatch the screen connector.

  • When reassembling pay attention to the little L-shaped iron part on the heaphones jack, put it back as shown in pict.3

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Image 1/3: Using the handle detach the HDD, and carefully put it in a safe place. Image 2/3: Using the handle detach the HDD, and carefully put it in a safe place. Image 3/3: Using the handle detach the HDD, and carefully put it in a safe place.
  • Take the motherboard out, paying attention to remove correctly the power connector.

  • Using the handle detach the HDD, and carefully put it in a safe place.

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Image 1/2: NOTE: Removing the battery resets the CMOS, so date, time, BIOS settings etc. will be deleted and set to default. Image 2/2: NOTE: Removing the battery resets the CMOS, so date, time, BIOS settings etc. will be deleted and set to default.
  • Detach the power connector and the battery.

  • NOTE: Removing the battery resets the CMOS, so date, time, BIOS settings etc. will be deleted and set to default.

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Image 1/3: Remove the four screws indicated, note that there are two types, long and short. Image 2/3: Very carefully take away the heat conductor on the CPU to see what's under. Image 3/3: Very carefully take away the heat conductor on the CPU to see what's under.
  • There is a heatsink screwed on the motherboard

  • Remove the four screws indicated, note that there are two types, long and short.

  • Very carefully take away the heat conductor on the CPU to see what's under.

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Image 1/3: That's right! The northbridge is made by CHIPS; T6550 A1 GVS60030 9651-b made in KOREA (the last is the serial I think) Image 2/3: The CPU is an Intel Pentium PP75 Y856 75Mhz Image 3/3: There's another chip with a stick attached to it; F36000 476002
  • Let's have a look at the chips

    • That's right! The northbridge is made by CHIPS; T6550 A1 GVS60030 9651-b made in KOREA (the last is the serial I think)

    • The CPU is an Intel Pentium PP75 Y856 75Mhz

    • There's another chip with a stick attached to it; F36000 476002

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Image 1/2: Here we find three more intresting chips and, of course, the RAM. Image 2/2: The first is only labelled F36000 474008.
  • But wait, there's something else: Try removing the black plastic sheet.

    • Here we find three more intresting chips and, of course, the RAM.

    • The first is only labelled F36000 474008.

    • YAMAHA, that's the audio chip, OPL YMF711-S 9645 WAMJ.

    • Toshiba 471HP C1997.

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Image 1/2: Note that's it is using the multi-layer technology, patented and seen on some other models such as ZENITH Systems, this allows the boards to be much smaller, but it's very hard to see the tracks. Image 2/2: Note that's it is using the multi-layer technology, patented and seen on some other models such as ZENITH Systems, this allows the boards to be much smaller, but it's very hard to see the tracks.
  • High definition shots of the motherboard.

    • Note that's it is using the multi-layer technology, patented and seen on some other models such as ZENITH Systems, this allows the boards to be much smaller, but it's very hard to see the tracks.

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Image 1/3: First remove the glued tapes at the bottom, so you can access the two screws that hold the upper part. Image 2/3: With a screwdriver take away the MousePad. Image 3/3: The pad is nice to use, confortable and easy to handle, you only have to get a little pratice, notebooks have abandoned this kind of pointing device from years, but in my own it's still excellent.
  • The screen! Not easy to open.

    • First remove the glued tapes at the bottom, so you can access the two screws that hold the upper part.

    • With a screwdriver take away the MousePad.

  • The pad is nice to use, confortable and easy to handle, you only have to get a little pratice, notebooks have abandoned this kind of pointing device from years, but in my own it's still excellent.

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Image 1/3: Take your time and do it quietly, otherwise you can break something inside. Image 2/3: Take your time and do it quietly, otherwise you can break something inside. Image 3/3: Take your time and do it quietly, otherwise you can break something inside.
  • With a spudger or a flat screwdriver open the screen as shown.

  • Take your time and do it quietly, otherwise you can break something inside.

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Image 1/2: Don't touch any part of the left circuit, it's dangerous to handle it because it handles high voltages for powering the neon lamp; take it from the edges and handle carefully. For your safety I would recommend you a pair of guants. Image 2/2: Unscrew where shown with a Phillips cross screwdriver.
  • Now you can see the screen, the power elevator for the lamp, the controls and the speaker.

    • Don't touch any part of the left circuit, it's dangerous to handle it because it handles high voltages for powering the neon lamp; take it from the edges and handle carefully. For your safety I would recommend you a pair of guants.

    • Unscrew where shown with a Phillips cross screwdriver.

    • Carefully move the screen to access better the rear cables.

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Image 1/3: With a flat screwdriver disconnect the two cables shown in the picture. Image 2/3: Take away part by part the mousepad and the mouse buttons. Image 3/3: Take away part by part the mousepad and the mouse buttons.
  • Before detaching the screen cables I suggest you to remove the controls.

    • With a flat screwdriver disconnect the two cables shown in the picture.

    • Take away part by part the mousepad and the mouse buttons.

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Image 1/2: Then pull off the speaker Image 2/2: Then pull off the speaker
  • Now disconnect the cable connected to the control board as shown.

  • Then pull off the speaker

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Image 1/3: The first is quite easy to take away, the same thing as part-8 (see pict.2) Image 2/3: Be careful when disconnecting the wire attached to the elevator board, do not electroshock yourself! Image 3/3: Be careful when disconnecting the wire attached to the elevator board, do not electroshock yourself!
  • Time to tear out the screen cables.

    • The first is quite easy to take away, the same thing as part-8 (see pict.2)

    • Be careful when disconnecting the wire attached to the elevator board, do not electroshock yourself!

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Image 1/3: The screen is very small, the maximum real resolution is only 640x480, actually the minimum for Win95. Image 2/3: Because the screen is old it contains mercury, and the cables may contain BFR, so try not to break anything. Image 3/3: Because the screen is old it contains mercury, and the cables may contain BFR, so try not to break anything.
  • Paying attention not to touch any contact, detach the neon cable by simply pulling it.

    • The screen is very small, the maximum real resolution is only 640x480, actually the minimum for Win95.

    • Because the screen is old it contains mercury, and the cables may contain BFR, so try not to break anything.

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Image 1/3: What? Some screws remaining? Not on my calendar; let's take them off! Image 2/3: Self-explanatory. Image 3/3: Self-explanatory.
  • After removing the mouse buttons try to..

    • What? Some screws remaining? Not on my calendar; let's take them off!

    • Self-explanatory.

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Image 1/3: Remove the screen's back panel. Image 2/3: With the same Phillips screwdriver remove the last screw... Image 3/3: With the same Phillips screwdriver remove the last screw...
  • There are some pieces that have to be removed in order to complete the work, so take your time and follow the instructions step by step.

    • Remove the screen's back panel.

    • With the same Phillips screwdriver remove the last screw...

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Image 1/3: There's a sticky sheet that is keeping held a little piece of plastic, remove it. Image 2/3: Then with a flat screwdriver try to take it off. That's fragile, so be gentile. Image 3/3: When done you can pull out the cable.
  • Time to separate the cable from the plastic cover.

    • There's a sticky sheet that is keeping held a little piece of plastic, remove it.

    • Then with a flat screwdriver try to take it off. That's fragile, so be gentile.

    • When done you can pull out the cable.

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Image 1/2: This wasn't very hard, but reassembling is not as easy as opening it. Image 2/2: I had to follow my own instructions to transform it back to one piece, luckily after that it still worked perfectly.
  • Et voilà! The work is done!

  • This wasn't very hard, but reassembling is not as easy as opening it.

  • I had to follow my own instructions to transform it back to one piece, luckily after that it still worked perfectly.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • High resolution pictures of the components.

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Image 1/2: And now a little comparison to the iPod Touch 3G (look! it's mine!): Image 2/2: Results are that the iPod touch does more, costs less and is that simple..! (I've already heard it somplace)
  • As you see the little PC is still working perfectly.

  • And now a little comparison to the iPod Touch 3G (look! it's mine!):

    • Results are that the iPod touch does more, costs less and is that simple..! (I've already heard it somplace)

    • I hope you enjoyed the guide, if you have any corrections, tips, additions or reproaches please post them!

    • Guide made by Mc128k

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Mc128k

Member since: 02/16/2010

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