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Disclaimer:

I took my brush apart because it stopped working. It would turn itself on in the middle of the night. I did not do any repairs on the brush whatsoever nor do I plan to do so in the future.

I damaged my unit while ripping it apart, especially the bottom and the frame. Since I couldn't find images online of a unit taken apart I created this teardown.

I hope it'll help other to safely take their electric toothbrushes apart and fix them.

The unit shown was used by two people for about 13 month . That meant daily removal of the brush heads up to four times. I presume that cause the seals on top to become leaky.

(In case this teardown is not wanted or deemed unhelpful, please feel free to delete it.)

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Happybrush Schall V3, use our service manual.

  1. The bottom plate is held in place by two hooks on opposite sides. I didn't manage to nudge them towards the inside - i destroyed part of the frame and bottom plate during my removal process. The o-ring tore during this. Yet still i pressume it'll do so anyway because there is very little space along the sides. It might need replacing afterwards.
    • The bottom plate is held in place by two hooks on opposite sides. I didn't manage to nudge them towards the inside - i destroyed part of the frame and bottom plate during my removal process. The o-ring tore during this. Yet still i pressume it'll do so anyway because there is very little space along the sides. It might need replacing afterwards.

    • On the bottom of the plate you will find the coil for inductive charging with a ferrite(?) core.

  2. The bottom plate as well as the rest of the inner parts are kept in place with two hooks each on opposing sides. After you have removed the bottom plate it becomes very easy to move the two remaining hooks. The distance between the bottom and the first dent where the hooks of the bottom plates slide into is about 12mm. I recommend placing the brush upside down on a hard surfcafe to create pressure on the inner parts so they move out after you have released the hooks holding them in place.
    • The bottom plate as well as the rest of the inner parts are kept in place with two hooks each on opposing sides. After you have removed the bottom plate it becomes very easy to move the two remaining hooks.

    • The distance between the bottom and the first dent where the hooks of the bottom plates slide into is about 12mm.

    • I recommend placing the brush upside down on a hard surfcafe to create pressure on the inner parts so they move out after you have released the hooks holding them in place.

    • Note: you need to move the hooks twice. Once from their original resting place and again once they reach the position where the hooks from the bottom plate once were.

    • The indent for the bottom plate is 2.5mm long. The thickness of the frame is 1.5mm along the indent and 1.7mm just after that.

  3. This just shows the hooks alongside the sledge holding the parts as well as the rails it slides on inside the frame. This just shows the hooks alongside the sledge holding the parts as well as the rails it slides on inside the frame.
    • This just shows the hooks alongside the sledge holding the parts as well as the rails it slides on inside the frame.

  4. I think it might be possible to apply enough pressure on the outside to move the hooks out of their corresponding dents. Once that is done you might be able to push everything out the same way.
    • I think it might be possible to apply enough pressure on the outside to move the hooks out of their corresponding dents. Once that is done you might be able to push everything out the same way.

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fabnie

Member since: 02/03/2021

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