Introduction

Oculus finally catches up with the big boys with the release of their ultra-responsive Oculus Touch controllers. Requiring a second IR camera and featuring a whole mess of tactile and capacitive input options, these controllers are bound to be chock full of IR LEDs and tons of exciting tech—but we'll only know for sure if we tear them down!

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This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Oculus Touch, use our service manual.

Image 1/3: An additional Oculus Sensor Image 2/3: A Rockband adapter Image 3/3: Two IR-emitting Touch controllers with ''finger tracking'' and a mess of buttons
  • Before we tear down, we take the opportunity to ogle the Oculus Touch system, which includes:

    • An additional Oculus Sensor

    • A Rockband adapter

    • Two IR-emitting Touch controllers with finger tracking and a mess of buttons

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  • Using our spectrespecs fancy IR-viewing technology, we get an Oculus Sensor eye's view of the Touch controllers.

  • While the twin black plastic halos are featureless to the naked eye, our camera sees the double rings of infrared LEDs residing beneath.

    • The LEDs, like those present in the headset, are arranged in distinct patterns, allowing the Oculus Sensor to pick out the headset and two controllers and determine their position and orientation.

  • Also, thanks to the not-quite-round shape of each controller, the sensor ought to be able to tell left from right—even after you've crossed your arms while playing Disappointed Parent Simulator 2016.

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Image 1/2: The battery panel is secured by a pretty hefty magnet, and packs a rubber bumper to keep the battery nicely in place. Image 2/2: Said battery is a non-rechargeable but perfectly standard AA battery, which you can replace with a rechargeable at the first opportunity. Better these than a glued-in battery!
  • Thanks to a handy "eject" arrow, we're alerted that this Touch controller slides open just like any other remote.

  • The battery panel is secured by a pretty hefty magnet, and packs a rubber bumper to keep the battery nicely in place.

    • Said battery is a non-rechargeable but perfectly standard AA battery, which you can replace with a rechargeable at the first opportunity. Better these than a glued-in battery!

  • This chamber also hosts the model information and point of origin (hello, Dublin!)—plus, we're almost certain there'll be a screw under that sticker.

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Image 1/3: Looking around for another point of attack, we decide the top is as good a place as any. Smelling glue, we turn up the heat! Image 2/3: Prying up the control surface reveals gobs of glue, and the cause of our troubles: ''another'' hidden screw. Image 3/3: We may not be inside yet, but things are looking up. The Touch is already previewing some tech for us: switches, a metallic pad, and maybe even the first of many IR LEDs.
  • There are indeed some hidden screws, but even after removing them we're not getting anywhere.

  • Looking around for another point of attack, we decide the top is as good a place as any. Smelling glue, we turn up the heat!

  • Prying up the control surface reveals gobs of glue, and the cause of our troubles: another hidden screw.

  • We may not be inside yet, but things are looking up. The Touch is already previewing some tech for us: switches, a metallic pad, and maybe even the first of many IR LEDs.

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  • We're able to remove the final Torx screw with a turn of a Pro Tech Driver.

  • The side panel finally bites the dust, and we get our first real look at the internals.

  • The boards are densely layered inside these handhelds, but we've already got a peek at what might be a Taptic Engine linear oscillator?

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Image 1/3: No heat is required, just prying, as the adhesive is mild-to-medium flavored. Image 2/3: Uncovered, the single-cable LED array peels off fairly easily after being disconnected. Image 3/3: All 22 IR LEDs are conveniently labeled, and there's even a barcode. Cross your fingers for Oculus-provided replacement parts!
  • A few more screws later, the outer rim of the loop is still attached by a bunch of glue, so there's no recourse but to pry again.

    • No heat is required, just prying, as the adhesive is mild-to-medium flavored.

  • Uncovered, the single-cable LED array peels off fairly easily after being disconnected.

  • All 22 IR LEDs are conveniently labeled, and there's even a barcode. Cross your fingers for Oculus-provided replacement parts!

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Image 1/2: Digging a little deeper into the handheld's handle, we find this cute little power distribution board ... that we can't remove without a soldering iron. Image 2/2: Y u no connectors, [https://cdn.meme.am/cache/instances/folder704/500x/73715704.jpg|Oculus|new_window=true]?
  • As we continue on our quest to dismantle the Touch, we strip off the battery caddy.

  • Digging a little deeper into the handheld's handle, we find this cute little power distribution board ... that we can't remove without a soldering iron.

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Image 1/3: Besides motherboard interconnect and vibrator sockets, we also spy a hexagonal test-point array, accessible from the bottom of the battery caddy. Image 2/3: The haptic vibration motor takes a little more work (heat and prying) to extract—it's well-secured with glue. Image 3/3: Everyone seems to be going linear-oscillator these days—iPhones, MacBooks, Pixel phones, and now VR controllers. Haptics—the simulated feel of the future.
  • In addition to a handful of passive components, we spy a couple of empty solder pads—perhaps to make custom LED hacks a little quicker.

  • Besides motherboard interconnect and vibrator sockets, we also spy a hexagonal test-point array, accessible from the bottom of the battery caddy.

  • The haptic vibration motor takes a little more work (heat and prying) to extract—it's well-secured with glue.

    • Everyone seems to be going linear-oscillator these days—iPhones, MacBooks, Pixel phones, and now VR controllers. Haptics—the simulated feel of the future.

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Image 1/3: And two big ol' springs for the XY/AB buttons—probably so they're not too stiff, or too soft, but juuuust right. Image 2/3: '''Teardown Update:''' After some further research and a burn from the soldering iron, we learned that these springs are meant to close the capacitive sensing circuit used in the buttons. Image 3/3: Chips! Some of these guys look oddly [https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Steam+Controller+Teardown/52578#s117511|familiar|new_window=true] ...
  • The joystick board appears the be the brains of this operation, it's packed solid with silicon and switches.

    • And two big ol' springs for the XY/AB buttons—probably so they're not too stiff, or too soft, but juuuust right.

    • Teardown Update: After some further research and a burn from the soldering iron, we learned that these springs are meant to close the capacitive sensing circuit used in the buttons.

  • Chips! Some of these guys look oddly familiar ...

    • Nordic Semiconductor nRF51822 Bluetooth Smart and 2.4 GHz proprietary SoC

    • Analog Devices AD7147 single-electrode capacitance sensors controller

    • Invensense MP651 6-axis combo gyroscope and accelerometer

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Image 1/2: Two more IR LEDs—bringing the per-controller total up to 24, the exact number found in the [https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/HTC+Vive+Teardown/62213#s130838|new_window=true|Vive controller]. Image 2/2: An LED that shines through the top of the controller, presumably as a visible light status LED.
  • Last (but not least!), we peel up an action-packed ribbon cable. All told we uncover:

    • Two more IR LEDs—bringing the per-controller total up to 24, the exact number found in the Vive controller.

    • An LED that shines through the top of the controller, presumably as a visible light status LED.

    • A final switch for the Oculus or menu buttons, depending on which controller you're looking at.

    • A spring contact for the conducting pad that turns the "thumb rest" into a capacitive button.

      • This allows players to give a thumbs-up in game, which is pretty important.

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Image 1/2: If you missed the [https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Oculus+Rift+CV1+Teardown/60612|new_window=true|Oculus Rift teardown], check it out to learn more about positional tracking and the [https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Oculus+Rift+Constellation+Teardown/61128|new_window=true|Oculus Sensors/Constellation system]. Image 2/2: If you want to scope out the Oculus Rift's competition (controllers and all), check out our [https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/HTC+Vive+Teardown/62213|HTC Vive teardown|new_window=true].

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Final Thoughts
  • Battery replacements are quick and easy with a magnetic cover being the only barrier to entry.
  • There are only T5 and T6 Torx screws in the Touch controllers, making screwdriver selection seamless.
  • Accessing the Touch controller internals requires fighting through a thick layer of adhesive.
  • The joystick, button bases, and battery connections are soldered directly to a board and require soldering knowledge to repair.
  • Navigating through the tabs, adhesive, and hidden screws is not intuitive and could result in damage during disassembly.
Repairability Score
5
Repairability 5 out of 10
(10 is easiest to repair)

10 Comments

The 'Big ol spring' the buttons use is the conductive path for the capacitive sensing for the face buttons.

Could you add an extra shot of the underside of the button housing, so we can see the cam profile the 'grip' trigger uses to modulate spring force?

Edward Zieba - Reply

Agreed, more photos of the housing, analog stick and buttons between step 9 and 10. Thanks!

Colter Cederlof -

there is an issue right now which will effect everyone where the trigger makes a loud noise. how do we fix it

Playlanco - Reply

analog stick broke down where can i find some one to replace it

robertoizquierdo66 - Reply

There are reports of a common problem with the Oculus Touch trigger. With time a rubber dampener will come loose (it is probably only glued) and the trigger will exhibit a loud noise when used. This can occur from anything between a few hours to months of use, depending on how hard/vigorously the trigger is pressed/used. Later squeaking noises may also develop, due to axial play caused by the lack of dampening.

I have tried to locate the rubber dampener from the images provided in the teardown. This is my best guess, but proper verification is needed:

http://sv.tinypic.com/r/2ewcmr8/9

ronalderik78 - Reply

i've opened my oculus touch controllers, it is very easy to open and i fixed the Triggers Noise.

the rubber is glued behind the trigger to the case. i've cut out a little bit of sponge and fitted and glued inside (don't glue with some serious glues so you wouldn't damage the case and the next time you can take it out and put something different if it wouldn't work good for you) hope i helped.

why i fix my controllers myself? because i bought my controllers brand new on gumtree for £80 :) but without receipt,

i used the controllers for about a month and the problem started to occur.

after fixing myself now the triggers are more silent then they was before :) even when i toke them out brand new from the box :)

Senator 3211 - Reply

More details please, I have the same issue and don't want to send for replacement. Did you have to remove the top panel (where the buttons and thumb rest is) or could you get straight to the trigger?

Tommy Carlsson -

Hey Senator. What was the actual issue in your case to begin with? Did the rubber fall out of place? Did it wear out?

Albert Kart - Reply

Went to it and opened the controller myself to fix the "sticky button" syndrome (I live far away from easy RMA's). The only tricky part was removing the top cover that has been glued. Used hair dryer to soften the glue and then carefully peeled it off. The rest are just screws, no need to touch the "led ring" or those screws at all. When assembling it back together, you will have to remove the battery compartment to re-attach at cord on the back of the "button" electronics board. The amount of glue on the top plate lends itself to just re-attach it back in position when done.

The problem seems to be a small (3 times 5 millimeter-ish) rubber pad behind the trigger button that has been glued to a flat area, but then becomes unstuck and wedges itself a little off, or somewhere else.

Tommy Carlsson - Reply

For those who don't want to dismantle:

My right trigger stuck today. Used a piece of thin cardboard (from a paper roll) and worked it right around the trigger until I found the blockage and pushed it in, now is back to being fine. There is a rubber grommet that comes off inside.

You could use a thin strip of plastic also.

Lets see how long it takes for the left to stick... big design issue.

Anton Gredziuk - Reply

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