Introduction

In this teardown, we open a Wii to the logic board. I couldn't have done this without the help of my girlfriend, Elizabeth.

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Nintendo Wii, use our service manual.

Image 1/3: Gather all tools. Image 2/3: Gather all tools. Image 3/3: Gather all tools.
  • Disconnect all external cords from the Wii console.

  • Gather all tools.

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Image 1/3: Once that screw is removed, you can slide out the plastic slot. Image 2/3: Once that screw is removed, you can slide out the plastic slot. Image 3/3: Once that screw is removed, you can slide out the plastic slot.
  • One small screw holds the BIOS memory battery.

  • Once that screw is removed, you can slide out the plastic slot.

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  • Remove these three black case screws. The one on the right is a few mm longer. These screws hold on the black plastic cover for the GameCube ports.

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Image 1/2: There are four screws: two Phillips #00 and two Tri-Wing. Image 2/2: There are four screws: two Phillips #00 and two Tri-Wing.
  • Lift off the black plastic plate.

  • There are four screws: two Phillips #00 and two Tri-Wing.

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Image 1/3: Some screws are under rubber feet, or small, square paper screw covers (red square). I used a sharp metal tool to get under the screw covers. You could use an X-acto knife. Image 2/3: Several case screws require a Tri-Wing screwdriver. Image 3/3: The next step has more pictures of removing rubber feet and the screws underneath. The feet and screwcovers are self-adhesive, but not every foot or screwcover has a screw.
  • Remove all screws from the case.

    • Some screws are under rubber feet, or small, square paper screw covers (red square). I used a sharp metal tool to get under the screw covers. You could use an X-acto knife.

    • Several case screws require a Tri-Wing screwdriver.

  • The next step has more pictures of removing rubber feet and the screws underneath. The feet and screwcovers are self-adhesive, but not every foot or screwcover has a screw.

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  • Remove rubber feet and screws underneath.

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Image 1/3: Once all screws are removed, you should be able to pull off the front drive panel. Image 2/3: The wire connecting the front panel (green squares in the third image) can be pulled out gently by hand or with the help of a spudger. Image 3/3: The wire connecting the front panel (green squares in the third image) can be pulled out gently by hand or with the help of a spudger.
  • Careful! If you don't remove the feet and the screws underneath before you try to pull off the front panel, the tab can split!

  • Once all screws are removed, you should be able to pull off the front drive panel.

  • The wire connecting the front panel (green squares in the third image) can be pulled out gently by hand or with the help of a spudger.

If you actually take the time to do this step It would not have a broken holder

Walker Young - Reply

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Now the case can be pulled apart.

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Image 1/3: Because of a secured wire leading to the drive, we reattached the cover to facilitate the remove of the entire drive assembly without harming any of the electronics. Image 2/3: There are a ton of parts in the optical drive, but there is nothing very fancy about this drive compared to other slot-loading drives, so I didn't take it apart completely. There are also a ton of gears and levers that I did not want to deal with. Image 3/3: There are a ton of parts in the optical drive, but there is nothing very fancy about this drive compared to other slot-loading drives, so I didn't take it apart completely. There are also a ton of gears and levers that I did not want to deal with.
  • We lifted up the cover of the optical drive by removing the six Phillips #00 screws. These are all labeled on the previous image.

  • Because of a secured wire leading to the drive, we reattached the cover to facilitate the remove of the entire drive assembly without harming any of the electronics.

  • There are a ton of parts in the optical drive, but there is nothing very fancy about this drive compared to other slot-loading drives, so I didn't take it apart completely. There are also a ton of gears and levers that I did not want to deal with.

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Image 1/3: Once those screws were removed, the entire case could be lifted off. Image 2/3: Don't pull too hard! There are two cables attaching the drive to the logic board underneath. Image 3/3: This wire slid out from its horizontal slot.  Once it was detached, the ribbon cable came out as well.
  • The screws holding in the drive were deep within the casing.

  • Once those screws were removed, the entire case could be lifted off.

  • Don't pull too hard! There are two cables attaching the drive to the logic board underneath.

  • This wire slid out from its horizontal slot. Once it was detached, the ribbon cable came out as well.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • With those wires detached, the optical drive came off completely.

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Image 1/2: Once within the case, all screws are Phillips #00. There are marked on the logic board with arrows, triangles, boxes, and crosses. From what I can tell, an arrow means that it just goes through the logic board cover. A triangle means that it is a longer logic board cover screw. A cross means that it holds on a plastic piece, and a box means that it holds on another EM shield / or heat sink. Image 2/2: Once within the case, all screws are Phillips #00. There are marked on the logic board with arrows, triangles, boxes, and crosses. From what I can tell, an arrow means that it just goes through the logic board cover. A triangle means that it is a longer logic board cover screw. A cross means that it holds on a plastic piece, and a box means that it holds on another EM shield / or heat sink.
  • We begin trying to get to the logic board by removing this small black plastic rim.

  • Once within the case, all screws are Phillips #00. There are marked on the logic board with arrows, triangles, boxes, and crosses. From what I can tell, an arrow means that it just goes through the logic board cover. A triangle means that it is a longer logic board cover screw. A cross means that it holds on a plastic piece, and a box means that it holds on another EM shield / or heat sink.

There is a small nut fitted snuggly on right side of the black plastic rim. Careful you don’t drop it and lose it.

ghgomez1 - Reply

Image 1/3: There are two wires (shown in the third picture) coming from the logic board and connected to the Wi-Fi antennas. These are delicate. Do not break them. Image 2/3: There are two wires (shown in the third picture) coming from the logic board and connected to the Wi-Fi antennas. These are delicate. Do not break them. Image 3/3: There are two wires (shown in the third picture) coming from the logic board and connected to the Wi-Fi antennas. These are delicate. Do not break them.
  • Remove all screws from the logic board cover. Two are recessed in the middle; others are along the edge. More will become visible as other parts are removed. It's like a game! You can start with the screws holding in the black plastic pieces, but I started with the most visible and went from there.

  • There are two wires (shown in the third picture) coming from the logic board and connected to the Wi-Fi antennas. These are delicate. Do not break them.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Take out these screws in the black plastic casing.

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Image 1/2: You must detach the power connector for the fan if you want to remove it completely. Image 2/2: You must detach the power connector for the fan if you want to remove it completely.
  • Detach the case fan. There are two screws holding it in.

  • You must detach the power connector for the fan if you want to remove it completely.

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Image 1/2: Once all the screws out, you can begin to remove the black casing. Image 2/2: Once all the screws out, you can begin to remove the black casing.
  • If your screwdriver is not magnetized, you will need a magnet to get out some of the embedded screws. You can hold a magnet against your screwdriver shaft to temporarily magnetize it.

  • Once all the screws out, you can begin to remove the black casing.

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Image 1/3: Note that at least one part is thermal padded to the logic board cover. You might have to replace this thermal pad, but I didn't. I just pushed them back together. Oh well! Image 2/3: Remove any remaining screws in the logic board cover. Image 3/3: Remove any remaining screws in the logic board cover.
  • With the black plastic covers off, we can see all the screw holes. Most of the screws are out by now, but once the rest of them are out, you can lift off the logic board cover.

  • Note that at least one part is thermal padded to the logic board cover. You might have to replace this thermal pad, but I didn't. I just pushed them back together. Oh well!

  • Remove any remaining screws in the logic board cover.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Once all screws are removed, lift off the logic board cover.

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Image 1/3: This is the thermal padding. Image 2/3: We opted not to remove the heat sink from the logic board, but it certainly could be removed. Image 3/3: We opted not to remove the heat sink from the logic board, but it certainly could be removed.
  • Look around.

  • This is the thermal padding.

  • We opted not to remove the heat sink from the logic board, but it certainly could be removed.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Take some more awesome photos.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • And take a couple more photos.

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Image 1/2: A muffin tin worked really well to organize all the screws. Image 2/2: Putting the Wii back together took only about half an hour, and it works perfectly. We improved Nintendo's design by three or four screws and one square nut, but worsened their design by one piece of duct tape (to hold in the bios battery).
  • We stopped there.

  • A muffin tin worked really well to organize all the screws.

  • Putting the Wii back together took only about half an hour, and it works perfectly. We improved Nintendo's design by three or four screws and one square nut, but worsened their design by one piece of duct tape (to hold in the bios battery).

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10 Comments

I was kinda hoping you would take apart the optical drive assembly, you said there is "nothing fancy" about it, but since Nintendo designed this drive to be able to take the "mini" discs from GameCube, they have to work out a mechanism to center the disc before loading it onto the motor, hence "a ton of gear and levers" and that's the exact thing I actually wanted to see, I really wanted to know how they made it work..

:P

Steven - Reply

Nice guide. I have one suggestion and one comment to add.

Suggestion: a different color circle in the pictures for the Tri tip screws would speed up re-installation.

Comment: the extra square nut holds in the BIOS battery cover which is quite inconvenient to discover as it is the last screw you reinstall.

AD Kocher - Reply

Thank you! Helped a lot to change the casing. The only advice that I can give is to organize the screws properly to mount it up again.

Cheers!

Edgis Stankke - Reply

Thanks for this. My Wii is now 9 and I need to do a good clean out of dust and what not. This will be really helpful.

Wizbang FL - Reply

so i got off the first two triangle screws under the black plastic on the gamecube controller ports, and after, i went to take off the four on the side of the wii. i got the ones that were deep in the console, but as i tried to get the black triangle ones that are a little smaller i messed up the screws to much and i pretty much lost the threading on the two. what can i do to get them off. i can replace them if i can get the darn things off. also i was using a flat head that worked on all the other silver triangle screws.

Gage Bowser - Reply

Hi one question you disassemble that only pcb stays you must unscrew heatsink but then it heatsink wont posture is it enough the i just screw or i need to clean and add new paste?

obregr - Reply

Would you mind answering a question? My Wii was dropped on accident, and I thought I heard something come loose. Sure enough, little black chunks of plastic came out of the fan slot when I examined it. The Wii itself appeared to work, but I can't help but worry that somehow gameplay might be effected. Any ideas where the black pieces of plastic came from? Will this effect the Wii's performance? Please respond as soon as you can!

Megalodon - Reply

Thanks for the 411. It was useful, with a few side notes:

1)I tried following your tool list on the cheap. Thinking that I had a ton of tool kits already, I skipped ordering the Phillips screw drivers. I panicked a little when I started my teardown, only to find all my drivers too big for the job....save one. The Phillips screw driver in the "Radio Shack 61PC Computer and Electrical Tool Set" handles all the Phillips screws on the teardown.

2)The notation about the hidden screws was a little misleading and a bit of an aggravation, as only a small percent of the feet actually covered screws (1, actually, IIRC). For a future edition of this teardown, please add some sketches to show the proper locations.The recommended "Pro Magnetic Project Mat" and my lame excuse for art skills saved me in this area.

gzapiec - Reply

When I took the drive apart there was a small plastic part rattling around which i managed to retrieve. Black, circular with three curved arms. It says push on the top side. Any idea what it is?

gjwilder - Reply

can anyone please post a pic of the loading gears on the opposite side that also show tge positions if the three springs. And the gears position with a disc loaded and not. Thanks

mon - Reply

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