Introduction

A while back we heard about the nifty Nikon Coolpix S1000pj, a digital camera with a built-in projector. We were very curious how Nikon packaged everything into this little device, so we decided to do what we do best -- tear it apart!

Check out our YouTube video of the teardown. We included a quick explanation of the projector's inner workings right around the 2:00 minute mark!

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Nikon Coolpix S1000pj, use our service manual.

  1. Contents of the box include:
    • Contents of the box include:

      • Separate instruction manuals/quick start guides in both English and Spanish. No instructions for you, French Canadians.

      • Battery Charger.

      • A/V and USB Cables.

      • Carrying Strap.

      • Nikon Software Suite Disk.

      • Nikon Remote, model ML-L4.

    • The remote even allows you to zoom and activate the shutter from a distance.

  2. As engineers, we decided the first thing we should do is browse through the instruction manual...
    • As engineers, we decided the first thing we should do is browse through the instruction manual...

    • We're glad Nikon is looking out for the well being of the average Joe, but "Take the Camera out of the Box"? Really?

    • Common sense FAIL.

    • The extremely simple yet nifty injection molded plastic stand tilts the camera back a few degrees to allow for projection on vertical surfaces.

    • The S1000pj sports a single lamp/single LCD panel projection system to view images in a dimly-lit room.

    • The image size can vary from approximately 5 to 40 inches.

    • According to the user manual specifications, the output resolution of the projector is VGA equivalent.

    • We here at iFixit strongly support the work the Rebel Alliance is doing to Restore the Republic and we fully stand behind their cause.

    • "Help me Obi Wan Kenobi, you're my only hope."

    • It's a shame the S1000pj doesn't beep or whistle or stop garbage compactors from crushing future Jedi knights.

    • The dimensions of the camera are 99.5 x 62.5 x 23 mm (4 x 2.5 x 0.9 in), and it weighs in at approximately 155g (5.5 oz.) without the battery and SD memory card.

    • Hidden behind the lens cover in the upper right corner is the Nikkor 5X wide optical zoom VR 5.0-25.0 mm 1:3.9-5.8 lens.

    • The back panel houses the comparatively large 2.7-inch High Resolution Bright LCD.

    • The slider on the third picture (boxed in red) focuses images projected from the front of the camera.

    • Removing the rechargable lithium-ion battery.

    • The battery, model EN-EL12, is rated 1050 mAh at 3.7V making the power output 3.885 Wh.

    • Looks like Nikon rounds up.

    • The battery weighs approximately 22.5 g (0.8 oz) excluding the terminal cover.

    • We're glad we can trust our good'ol Phillips screwdriver to help us remove a few screws from the battery-chamber/memory card slot cover.

    • After a few pries with a plastic opening tool, the chromed plastic side cover simply pops off the camera body.

    • A few more screws secure the rear case to the body.

    • After prying around its perimeter, we lift the rear case off the body.

    • Surprisingly, both the front and rear outer cases are machined out of aluminum.

    • The button covers attach to the rear case while the electronic portion is attached to the metal shield next to the display.

    • The display is attached to the metal shield by several fingers that apply pressure between the shield and the edge of the display.

    • Flip back the ZIF cable lock and remove the display.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to pop the speaker assembly out of the metal shield.

    • The speaker pumps out some pretty fresh beats when the camera is in projector mode.

    • Remove a few screws around the perimeter of the open back of the camera.

    • After some (careful) prying, the top and right covers pop right off.

    • Interestingly, the controls along the top of the camera are attached to a board below the top cover. The top cover just houses the button covers.

    • Carefully lift the protective steel panel to reveal the logic board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip back the ZIF cable lock to disconnect the control ribbon cable before removing the panel.

    • Pry the upper camera cable connector straight up off the logic board.

    • Flip back the ZIF cable lock and remove the lens assembly.

    • Copper was an interesting choice for the rear cover of the lens assembly.

    • The camera module in all its glory.

    • Like most compact digital cameras with optical zoom that have no externally telescopic lenses, the S1000pj's internal zoom lenses move perpendicular to the front face.

    • The basic components include:

      • A few movable lenses.

      • CCD image sensor.

      • Optical zoom motor and feedback sensor to position the lenses.

      • Aperture and image stabilization modules.

    • Light has to travel through at least four glass lenses until it shines on the CCD sensor. What a journey.

    • We had to disconnect a few additional ZIF cables and remove some screws still securing the the logic board to the main chassis.

    • Disassembling this camera is not for the faint of heart -- Nikon definitely did not intend this device to be user serviceable.

    • We even had to de-solder a bunch of components including the camera cover actuator, projector LED, and flash bulb.

    • To remove the projector lens, first remove the flash tube.

    • After removing a few screws...

    • ...The projector assembly lifts right out.

    • Here's an inside look at the projector assembly sans the protective cover.

    • Light for projecting images is supplied by a very powerful LED (shown in red) that even has its own heat sink to conduct heat to the aluminum front panel.

    • As light leaves the LED it passes through some filters and lenses (shown in orange).

    • A good deal of engineered optical reflection allows the light emitted by the LED to reflect through a tiny LCD panel (shown in yellow) and head toward the mirror.

    • Before bouncing off the angled mirror and exiting the camera, the projected image passes through a focusing lens (shown in blue) connected to the slider on the top panel.

    • Almost there...

    • Remove the automatic lens cover door first. The lens cover is motorized and opens anytime the camera function is activated.

    • After the lens cover is out, removing the front facing microphone is a snap.

    • The main players on 'SIDE-A' of the board include:

      • Samsung 925 K5W1213LCA-AK60 EDE010D5

      • Sanyo EV4MA N1U5YNPD 0925

      • D805 0921K

      • ADDI7000 BCPZ 0924 1644955.1

      • 87F283A 8KK5P

    • Residing on 'SIDE-B' of the board are:

    • MAXIM 8916I TL919 +NTAS

    • HIMAX HX8852-A 005BEG 923ES06 LCOS display controller with interface compliant to MIPI.

    • Wolfson Microelectronics WM8941G 95AEKSW mono CODEC with speaker driver and video buffer.

    • RHAPSODY E1-145 923102.

    • Nikon Coolpix S1000pj...you've just been Torn'd!

    • That's our new phrase, Torn'd.

    • That does it for this edition of iFixit's riveting teardown. Join us next time when we continue our teardown debaucheries!

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