Danger
Potentially Dangerous
Injury may result if this procedure is not followed properly. Use caution and follow all warnings.
Danger

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Nespresso inissia, use our service manual.

Image 1/1: You can get into it with a pair of needle-nose pliers. The pliers I used aren't ideal — you want something that can get into the recessed slots.
  • The inissia is a compact coffee-making gizmo. Opening it requires a proprietary tool that Nespresso doesn't sell.

  • You can get into it with a pair of needle-nose pliers. The pliers I used aren't ideal — you want something that can get into the recessed slots.

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Image 1/1: You can painstakingly remove them with pliers. Take your time.

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Image 1/3: The easiest place to get in is the power plug. Be careful not to nick it. (And make sure you're unplugged from the wall!) Image 2/3: The easiest place to get in is the power plug. Be careful not to nick it. (And make sure you're unplugged from the wall!) Image 3/3: The easiest place to get in is the power plug. Be careful not to nick it. (And make sure you're unplugged from the wall!)
  • Now that the screws are removed, use a screwdriver or a spudger to pry the tabs holding the bottom case on.

  • The easiest place to get in is the power plug. Be careful not to nick it. (And make sure you're unplugged from the wall!)

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  • Carefully open the lower case and set the machine on its side.

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  • The plastic strain relief bracket on the power cable is challenging to remove. Insert a small flathead screwdriver into the small slot on one side to disengage the tab.

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Image 1/1: Grab one side firmly with your pliers and pull on the other side of the connector with your fingers. Do not pull on the cable, because you can pull it free from the spade connector.
  • Nespresso makes heavy use of spade connectors inside this machine.

  • Grab one side firmly with your pliers and pull on the other side of the connector with your fingers. Do not pull on the cable, because you can pull it free from the spade connector.

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Image 1/1: Remove the power switch from the case.
  • Disconnect the blue neutral wire.

  • Remove the power switch from the case.

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  • Firmly grasp the power cable connectors and remove them from the power switch.

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  • Insert the tip of a spudger into the silicon tube and slide it off the nipple.

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Image 1/2: Remove the bottom case. Image 2/2: Remove the bottom case.
  • Thread the remaining tubes and wires through the bottom case to free it from the main unit.

  • Remove the bottom case.

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Image 1/3: There are a series of tabs on all four sides of the shell. Image 2/3: Start by using a flathead screwdriver or spudger to pop the first tab. Image 3/3: Work your way around the case, freeing tabs as you go.
  • Removing the outer shell requires some force.

  • There are a series of tabs on all four sides of the shell.

  • Start by using a flathead screwdriver or spudger to pop the first tab.

  • Work your way around the case, freeing tabs as you go.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Keep prying!

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  • Remove the outer shell.

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  • Extricate the control button wires from the case assembly.

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Image 1/2: This part, which measures water flow, is referred to as a 'debimetre' in Nespresso's part lists. It is part # 932-9521. Image 2/2: Remove the sensor data cable.
  • Remove the blue tube from the flow meter.

  • This part, which measures water flow, is referred to as a 'debimetre' in Nespresso's part lists. It is part # 932-9521.

  • Remove the sensor data cable.

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Image 1/1: Repeat this for the clip attaching the valve to the water heater.
  • The pump feed tube uses a clever retaining clip. Remove this clip with your pliers. It does not require much force.

  • Repeat this for the clip attaching the valve to the water heater.

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  • Remove the valve assembly from the frame.

Is there a general name for this type of connector - the metal doohickey on the end of the tube, plus the retaining clip?

Michael Kwun - Reply

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  • Disconnect the power cable from the spade connector on the side of the water pump.

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  • Remove the side panel from the other side of the unit. The tab positions are similar to the first side panel.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Disengage the tabs holding the top assembly to the case.

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Image 1/2: Remove the top case. Be careful, the button cables are captive to the case. Disentangle the cables and set the top next to the frame. Image 2/2: You will not be able to completely remove the top case until the circuit board is removed. (The button cables do not disconnect from the main circuit board.)
  • Remove the front spout.

  • Remove the top case. Be careful, the button cables are captive to the case. Disentangle the cables and set the top next to the frame.

  • You will not be able to completely remove the top case until the circuit board is removed. (The button cables do not disconnect from the main circuit board.)

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  • Remove the plastic outer circuit board cover.

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Image 1/2: Disconnect each cable with your pliers. Image 2/2: Disconnect each cable with your pliers.
  • Power cables, from left to right: heat (white), neutral (blue), pump (dark grey), pump ground? (light grey), line (brown).

  • Disconnect each cable with your pliers.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Slide the water pump out. The rubber vibration isolator doubles as a mounting bracket that neatly slides out from the plastic frame.

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  • Remove the (rather over-engineered) silicon mounting bracket holding the coffee feed line in place.

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  • Disconnect the latches and slide the heating assembly out of the frame.

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Image 1/2: Don't use too much force on the plastic bracket on top of the circuit board because there are two vulnerable capacitors on the rear left side of the board. Image 2/2: Don't use too much force on the plastic bracket on top of the circuit board because there are two vulnerable capacitors on the rear left side of the board.
  • Free the latch on the right side of the circuit board and then carefully lever it out.

  • Don't use too much force on the plastic bracket on top of the circuit board because there are two vulnerable capacitors on the rear left side of the board.

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  • The remaining cables can not be removed from the board. Don't try!

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  • The BTB12 AC 12 Amp triac requires a large heat sink that is riveted onto the main board.

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  • Voilá!

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6 Comments

A tool or a bit for those oval-head screws can often be bought at suppliers for coffee automates e.g. branded "Jura", "AEG", "Siemens", "Krups"

VauWeh - Reply

Where is the heating element then?

Junhao Eric Tan - Reply

Hi Junaho.

Did you have a look to Step 26 ?

Christophe S - Reply

I see, my bad.

Junhao Eric Tan - Reply

APPRECIATE INFORMATION WHERE TO B UY A CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THIS INISSIA D40 NESPRESSO COFFE MAKER

THANKS,

CARLOS VELARDE

carvel@bearingcorp.com

Carlos Velarde - Reply

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