Parts

No parts required.

Remove the 8 mm M3 Phillips head self tapping machine screws. Several of the screws are in narrow, deep sockets; make sure to use an appropriate screw driver to remove them so as not to damage the cover during removal.
  • Remove the 8 mm M3 Phillips head self tapping machine screws.

    • Several of the screws are in narrow, deep sockets; make sure to use an appropriate screw driver to remove them so as not to damage the cover during removal.

  • Remove all 13 of the back plate screws.

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Remove the two highlighted 10 mm M3 galvanized machine screws using the J1 head fro the iFixit Tool Kit or a comparable tool. Remove the two highlighted 10 mm M3 galvanized machine screws using the J1 head fro the iFixit Tool Kit or a comparable tool.
  • Remove the two highlighted 10 mm M3 galvanized machine screws using the J1 head fro the iFixit Tool Kit or a comparable tool.

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Removal of Ribbon Cables Prior to removal, note, mark, or take photo’s of the position of all connectors. Specifically note the side that the red wire is on, as ribbon cables are polarized cables that must be re-installed correctly. Installing the cables backwards may cause damage to the device or significantly hinder the troubleshooting process. To separate the back plate, remove all five cables that connect to the motherboard but do not originate from the back plate; the key assembly, LCD circuit, rotor tuning circuit, and the pitch and modulator circuits. None of these cables require tools to remove, simply apply firm upward pressure to remove them.
  • Removal of Ribbon Cables

    • Prior to removal, note, mark, or take photo’s of the position of all connectors. Specifically note the side that the red wire is on, as ribbon cables are polarized cables that must be re-installed correctly. Installing the cables backwards may cause damage to the device or significantly hinder the troubleshooting process.

  • To separate the back plate, remove all five cables that connect to the motherboard but do not originate from the back plate; the key assembly, LCD circuit, rotor tuning circuit, and the pitch and modulator circuits. None of these cables require tools to remove, simply apply firm upward pressure to remove them.

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Remove the key assembly from the key board. What remains is the back plate and the top plate assemblies.
  • Remove the key assembly from the key board.

  • What remains is the back plate and the top plate assemblies.

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This is the location of the tuning potentiometer circuit retaining screws, 5 each 10mm long M3 galvanized Philips head machine screws
  • This is the location of the tuning potentiometer circuit retaining screws, 5 each 10mm long M3 galvanized Philips head machine screws

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Remove all five screw in any order with the J1 screwdriver head from the Ifixit tool kit.
  • Remove all five screw in any order with the J1 screwdriver head from the Ifixit tool kit.

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The black plastic knobs have no set screws and are removed by simply applying upward pressure.
  • The black plastic knobs have no set screws and are removed by simply applying upward pressure.

  • Once all eight knobs are pulled off, use the open end of a 10mm wrench to loosen and remove the potentiometer retaining nuts on all eight knobs.

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Once the retaining nuts and screws are removed, the circuit board with the attached potentiometers will easily separate from the front plate. To replace the damaged potentiometer, de-solder the three connections, replace with a new potentiometer, and re-solder the connections.
  • Once the retaining nuts and screws are removed, the circuit board with the attached potentiometers will easily separate from the front plate.

  • To replace the damaged potentiometer, de-solder the three connections, replace with a new potentiometer, and re-solder the connections.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

jad dalal

Member since: 10/05/2016

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1 Guide authored

Team

USF Tampa, Team 1-6, Sullivan Fall 2016 Member of USF Tampa, Team 1-6, Sullivan Fall 2016

USFT-SULLIVAN-F16S1G6

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