Parts

No parts required.

Image 1/2: Several of the screws are in narrow, deep sockets, make sure to use an appropriate screw driver to remove them so as not to damage the cover during removal. Image 2/2: Remove the back plate screws, the order is irrelevant, and all 13 screws are the same
  • Remove the 8mm long M3 Phillips head self tapping machine screws.

  • Several of the screws are in narrow, deep sockets, make sure to use an appropriate screw driver to remove them so as not to damage the cover during removal.

  • Remove the back plate screws, the order is irrelevant, and all 13 screws are the same

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Image 1/2: They are each 10mm long M3 galvanized Phillips head machine screws Image 2/2: Remove the key assembly retaining screws, using the J1 head in the Ifixit tool kit
  • This is the location of the key assembly retaining screws

  • They are each 10mm long M3 galvanized Phillips head machine screws

  • Remove the key assembly retaining screws, using the J1 head in the Ifixit tool kit

  • Count:2

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Image 1/3: Prior to removal, note, mark, or take photo’s of the position of all connectors, specifically note the side that the red wire is on, as ribbon cables are polarized cables that must be installed correctly. installing the cables backwards may cause damage to the device or significantly hinder the troubleshooting process. Image 2/3: There are five cables that connect to the motherboard but are not originating from the back plate; the key assembly, LCD circuit, rotor tuning circuit, and the pitch and modulator circuits. All 5 must be removed in order to separate the back plate. None of these cables require tools to remove, simply apply firm upward pressure to remove them. Image 3/3: There are five cables that connect to the motherboard but are not originating from the back plate; the key assembly, LCD circuit, rotor tuning circuit, and the pitch and modulator circuits. All 5 must be removed in order to separate the back plate. None of these cables require tools to remove, simply apply firm upward pressure to remove them.
  • Removal of Ribbon Cables

  • Prior to removal, note, mark, or take photo’s of the position of all connectors, specifically note the side that the red wire is on, as ribbon cables are polarized cables that must be installed correctly. installing the cables backwards may cause damage to the device or significantly hinder the troubleshooting process.

  • There are five cables that connect to the motherboard but are not originating from the back plate; the key assembly, LCD circuit, rotor tuning circuit, and the pitch and modulator circuits. All 5 must be removed in order to separate the back plate. None of these cables require tools to remove, simply apply firm upward pressure to remove them.

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Image 1/2: The key assembly should now be free to remove from the keyboard. You will be left with the back plate and the top plate assemblies to continue working. Image 2/2: The key assembly should now be free to remove from the keyboard. You will be left with the back plate and the top plate assemblies to continue working.
  • End Result

  • The key assembly should now be free to remove from the keyboard. You will be left with the back plate and the top plate assemblies to continue working.

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Image 1/1:
  • This is the location of the tuning potentiometer circuit retaining screws, 5 each 10mm long M3 galvanized Philips head machine screws

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove all five screw in any order with the J1 screwdriver head from the Ifixit tool kit.

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Image 1/1: Once all eight knobs are pulled off, use the open end of a 10mm wrench to loosen and remove the potentiometer retaining nuts on all eight knobs.
  • The black plastic knobs have no set screws and are removed by simply applying upward pressure.

  • Once all eight knobs are pulled off, use the open end of a 10mm wrench to loosen and remove the potentiometer retaining nuts on all eight knobs.

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Image 1/2: To replace the damaged potentiometer, de-solder the three connections, replace with a new potentiometer, and re-solder the connections. Image 2/2: To replace the damaged potentiometer, de-solder the three connections, replace with a new potentiometer, and re-solder the connections.
  • Once the retaining nuts and screws are removed, the circuit board with the attached potentiometers will easily separate from the front plate.

  • To replace the damaged potentiometer, de-solder the three connections, replace with a new potentiometer, and re-solder the connections.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

jad dalal

Member since: 10/05/2016

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1 Guide authored

Team

USF Tampa, Team 1-6, Sullivan Fall 2016 Member of USF Tampa, Team 1-6, Sullivan Fall 2016

USFT-SULLIVAN-F16S1G6

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