Microsoft Surface Teardown



Teardowns provide a look inside a device and should not be used as disassembly instructions.

We got our hands on Microsoft's new Surface, and to its credit, it lasted a good twenty minutes before we decided to tear it open.

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Edit Step 1 Microsoft Surface Teardown  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Microsoft Surface Teardown  ¶ 

  • Is that the display assembly from a PC laptop? Nope, it's the new Microsoft Surface with Windows RT.

  • Notable tech specs:

    • 10.6" ClearType HD Display (resolution of 1366x768 pixels)

    • Quad-core NVIDIA Tegra 3 processor

    • 2 GB RAM

    • 32 or 64 GB flash storage

    • Wi-Fi (802.11a/b/g/n) + Bluetooth 4.0

    • 720p HD Front and Rear facing LifeCams

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • To give the Surface laptop-like connectivity, nearly every edge includes ports and buttons. They are (from left to right):

    • Magnetic charging, USB 2.0, and Micro-HDMI out on the right side

    • Magnetic connection for the Touch Cover or Type Cover on the bottom

    • Headphone jack and volume rocker on the left side

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Just like your first big-kid bike, this laptop tablet comes with a kickstand to prop it up in notebook mode.

  • One of the most notable features of the Surface is its Touch Cover keyboard, which protects the screen when closed and provides a full QWERTY typing experience when open.

    • For users who find the Touch Cover to be too much a compromise, Microsoft offers the Type Cover, a chiclet keyboard that also folds up to protect the Surface's LCD.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • We begin our expedition by removing the kickstand.

  • Fun fact: the kickstand is held in place by a few Torx screws.

  • Sans kickstand, we can easily view the markings on the back of the Surface's rear case. The Surface with Windows RT has a model number of 1516.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Small bezels tend to hide screws, so the first place we look to open the Surface is its long plastic camera cover.

  • Our pictures make it look easy, but removing this plastic cover took about half an hour and a lot of careful prying.

    • Chalk it up to inexperience. This step should take less than ten minutes once we create guides for it.

  • Not only did we find the screws we were searching for, but there is also what appears to be a tamper-evident seal that simply reads "Surface."

  • The tamper-evident label is composed of multiple sections. Unfortunately, it breaks apart upon removal.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • After removing a total of 17 T5 Torx screws, (10 under the kickstand and 7 under the camera cover), the rear case comes right off—almost.

  • A lone ribbon cable still tethers the battery to a ZIF connector on the Surface's motherboard, which we make quick work of with the ever-trusty spudger.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • The big question of the day: is the battery easily removed?

    • Answer: Yes. It's glued in, but it's way easier to remove than on the iPad. A couple of minutes of spudging around, and it's out.

  • We get our first look at the battery. As is the norm, the dual battery cell is adhered to the VaporMg rear case.

  • The 7.4 V, 31.5 Wh battery is manufactured by Samsung. It fits right in between the iPad 2's 25 Wh battery, and the iPad 3's 42.5 Wh unit.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Next we find a large orange ribbon cable leading to the "Apple-esque" magnetic charging port. The microSDXC card slot that hides underneath the kickstand is also attached to this ribbon cable. And not a single bother was given that day, so we proceeded to dismantle the speakers.

  • We love modular components inside tablets and smartphones, and these speakers fit that bill. A little bit of spudgering, and our Surface has gone silent.

    • With two speaker assemblies we are living in stereo.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Next to the display in the front case we find, well, some speaker-looking thing.

  • Inside the case of our mystery component we found a voice coil, so we're pretty sure it's some sort of microphone or secondary speaker, or possibly a linear vibration motor.

  • Update: It looks like a Precision Microdrives Precision Haptic Linear Resonant Vibrator, responsible for haptic feedback.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • The headphone jack and volume buttons aren't holding on to their real estate too tightly, and they easily come out next.

  • We still count this as a modular component, even though it's two things on the same ribbon cable. We have certainly seen worse lately as far as modularity goes.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • We disconnect the display and digitizer cable from the motherboard with the help of a plastic opening tool.

  • Let's get the motherboard out and see what goodies are attached to it.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Oh no! We can't Skype with our grandmothers now that the front-facing camera is gone!

    • We had to wait until the motherboard was out to remove this camera, as a plastic bezel pins it down from beneath.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Off comes another 720p camera from the motherboard. It feels like we've done this before…

  • The exclusion of a 1080p rear-facing camera either means cost was a big concern, or that Microsoft's designers don't expect you to use the Surface as your main camera.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • The backside of the motherboard doesn't have any chips, but it does have two Wi-Fi antennas, the ambient light sensor, a couple microphones, and a precarious wire running most of its length.

    • Ambient light sensor

    • Wolfson WM7220 Microphones

    • Precarious wire

  • The Wi-Fi antennas are labeled:

    • Antenova A10416-WIFI-A2

    • Antenova A10416-WIFI-A1

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Following the mother(board) is the daughter(board) featuring three Atmel MXT154E touchscreen controllers.

  • This board only deals with matters pertaining to the 10.6" touchscreen. Everything else is either located on the motherboard or on its own ribbon cable.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • The back side of the daughterboard contains only a few prominent ICs:

    • Atmel MXT1386 touchscreen controller

    • TI MSP430G2402 Microcontroller

    • 1600P E284A Crystal Oscillator

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • We tried to remove the keyboard connector, but were disappointed to find it's wedged firmly under the LCD. Replacing the connector will require either bending the magnesium frame or separating the display.

  • We were on a teardown roll, so we pressed on and pulled the display from the VaporMG frame, which required a heat gun, some guitar picks, and plenty of patience.

  • The display's LTL106AL01-002 label indicates Samsung as the manufacturer. Its sister panel, the LTL106AL01-001, appears to be 1280 x 800 resolution. We didn't test the Surface's display before taking it apart, and we trust Microsoft not to lie…

    • But maybe someone can do a quicky double-check on the display resolution, just for giggles?

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Microsoft Surface Repairability: 4 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair).

    • Several components are modular and replaceable without requiring desoldering.

    • You can remove the battery pretty easily—once you've suffered through the opening procedure.

    • It's pretty difficult to remove the rear panel and gain access to the device.

    • It is impossible to remove the keyboard connector without first removing the display from the frame.

    • LCD and glass are fused together and strongly adhered to the case, increasing cost of replacement.

    • You'll have to use a heat gun and lots of patience to gain access to the glass and LCD.

Required Tools


$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Heat Gun

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

T5 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T4 Torx Screwdriver

$0.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

This site says the display LTL106AL01-002 has the 1280 x 800 resolution also...

Mile Zajkovski, · Reply

This site states the proper resolution:

Life's the same, except for the shoes...

scottwilkins, · Reply

What's the keyboard connector pinout?

Joseph Innace, · Reply

This is cool. Eagerly waiting for a teardown of the touch and type covers as well...

Sreekumar S, · Reply

What are the MEMS sensors inside of Surface?

Alex Hung, · Reply

What are the Sensor Fusion solutions (Accelerometer, Gyroscope and Magnetometer) inside of Surface?

Alex Hung, · Reply

Impossible to install a new mSATA drive to upgrade from 32GB to something better. sad

Bryan, · Reply

Can the Samsung 32 GB flash drive be replaced? My Surface wont boot anymore and ive been told that is a Hard Disk problem.

Ioan Corbu, · Reply

My RT got a cracked screen, and I'm ordering a new LCD as well as a separate digitizer bezel.

Anyone have any ideas on reattaching the LCD and the digitizer WITHOUT gluing them back together? I would like a solution that would make future repair easier with out breaking out the heat gun, and if I'm fortunate enough to once again NOT damage the LCD, but only the digitizer, NOT having it glued together would be great.

Joe Tom Collins, · Reply

Last night i pluged it in for charging and slept . When i checked in the morning the display is not working. But under careful observation i found display working 5n but the backlight is not.

What is the solution to my problem?

Chaithanya, · Reply

Hi Chaithanaya,

I have the same problem with my Surtface RT, went to sleep once and since then backlight isn't working.

Did you manage to get it to work?



I have a big problem with my surface .not charging anymore.can you tell me how could i check the charger, the pin from the device. it is another way to check if the batery is good.


clean the connection's with alcohol pads


Hi there

I have got Surface RT 64gb some how it doesn't give backlight I can see display but very very dim would you please recommend me what could be the problem



navida583, · Reply

Savez vous ou je pourrai trouver une nouvelle béquille?

jahmin, · Reply

"Are you ready to break the Surface?" (re: tamper seal)

apoJj, · Reply

MS make removing their warranty seals harder over time.I still remember how easy to remove the original Xbox 360 seal without damging it.

Honam1021, · Reply

There is also a screw under the SURFACE sticker

Paul, · Reply

Can you please give more detail on how to remove the camera cover?

Minh Le, · Reply

I used a very small Screwdriver and began at the side furthest from the power switch and gently pry it up. As you move along you will see where it clips and can gently nudge the clips to release and the camera cover area comes right off. Before you remove the screws under the camera cover, check Microsoft to make sure your surface isn't under warranty, because a screw is under that seal and will have to be removed. To replace it start at the power switch side and gently snap into place all the way across.

Marie McNutt, · Reply

Can you provide the xyz dimensions of the 2 battery cells in the battery pack?

Jarvis Tou, · Reply

Would you have any info on a part number for the charging port, or suggestions of where to track one down? I'm pretty sure I need to replace one for a family member, which should be pretty easy (thanks to you guys), but I still need the part to do the job.

Matt Wilson, · Reply

X868156-002 - Power Adapter Port Assembly


I am pretty sure that the CY8C20466A is not driving the touchscreen or touch keyboard. The 5 Atmel devices are doing that. The maximum 4MIPS M8C cpu in the CY8C20466A is great for Button slider and wheel type ccap touch applications, but not powerfull enough for a screen. My guess is that they are either using it for some cap touch buttons along the edges of the Surface or they are using the switch cap functionality in the Cap sense block as an audio filter. The latter makes most sense when you consider the other devices on the module

Sam Francisco, · Reply

The precarious wire is a wifi antenna cable. If you look where it goes, it comes from right underneath the wifi section of the board and goes to near the far away wifi antenna is. You can see where it comes through the board on the side far away form the wifi section, and that it goes to an antenna connection and other passives.

It's not precarious at all, it's soldered in many places to the board to hold it in place (I wouldn't be surprised if all of those connections were connecting the shield of the cable to ground on the board.) That's a really which quality job for the wifi antenna.

adcurtin, · Reply

That "precarious wire" does look like a piece of micro coaxial cable. I believe the technical term would be semi-rigid cable. They used that stuff on many handsets throughout the 1990's. If you have to traverse relatively long distances, it is hard to beat - you don't have the dispersion of the signal like you do with printed line.

DanB, · Reply

there is a Cypress touch screen controller and one from Atmel?

DooMMasteR, · Reply

owning a Surface I can confirm a resolution of 1366x768 for the display.

shertaeg, · Reply

Do you know what adhesive was used to attach the LCD to the frame?

Richard Jackson, · Reply

I also want to know.


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