Kindle Fire HDX 7" Teardown



Teardowns provide a look inside a device and should not be used as disassembly instructions.

Missed last week's Kindle Fire HD 7" teardown? [invalid guide link].

Take a look, it's in a book—an eBook that is—the Teardown Rainbow! We're moving on over to the next tablet in Amazon's new Kindle line-up; get ready for some mad knowledge.

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Edit Step 1 Kindle Fire HDX 7" Teardown  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Kindle Fire HDX 7" Teardown  ¶ 

  • In the game of tablets, you either win, or you put out a bunch of different versions and hope one catches on. Seriously, it's the War of the Five Kings out there. Here are the specs for the latest aspirant:

    • 7" display with 1920 x 1200 resolution at 323 ppi

    • Quad-core 2.2 GHz Snapdragon processor

    • Dual band, dual antenna (MIMO) Wi-Fi

    • Dual stereo speakers with Dolby Audio and built-in microphone

    • Front-facing HD camera

    • 16/32/64 GB internal storage

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • A quick inspection of the back reveals dual microphones and speaker grilles up top, with the buttons at thumb level.

  • The buttons seem a lot more robust and conveniently located than last year's Fire HD.

  • How do you know you've got the right device? Check the model number: C9R6QM.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • The rear case turns out to be the case, wrapping around the entire device and forming a near-unibody enclosure. We target a thin plastic bezel as the Kindle's one weakness.

  • Our little blue friend is the perfect orc tool to get us inside. But it's no easy task prying against all that adhesive.

    • Fixit doctors prescribe a dose of toasty iOpener.

  • And—ooh! Fuschia…fuchsia…pink screws.

    • It's always nice to have a reminder to think pink.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • While it's significantly harder than cracking open a book, we crack into our Kindle like a kid who loves lobster.

  • With the rear case free, we rush to get inside, only to be stopped by a pesky cable tethering the two halves.

  • No cable will keep us out. Having dispensed with the nitty, we get to the gritty: components!

    • In the Kindle Fire HD of yesteryear, the rear case was a bare piece of plastic, without any additional components.

    • This time around, all of the peripherals have been offloaded to the rear case, along with a shiny heat dissipating plate.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • With a bit of spudger-fu, we knock out the combination power button and micro-USB port cable.

  • The micro-HDMI port from last year's model has been torched in favor of wireless mirroring via Miracast and the Second Screen sharing technology, coming sometime in October.

  • We're happy to see modularity in the smaller components of the HDX. The volume buttons, microphones, and headphone jack are all separate pieces, allowing failed components to be replaced individually.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Antenna adventures! Where is this cable going?

  • Nowhere. It is connected, screwed, and taped three times in place. It must have been an unruly child.

  • This seems a little like restraining a teddy bear with a muzzle.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • The motherboard is out of the nest, but can it ever return home?

    • The LCD and digitizer cables are trapped between the LCD and midframe. The only way to get the connectors reseated (aside from blind luck) is to remove the midframe from the display assembly.

  • To make matters worse, the battery connects via spring contacts beneath the motherboard—so a battery replacement makes for an even more involved repair procedure.

    • What was that? The sound of the HDX's repairability score free-falling into the abyss.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • The back side of the motherboard is home to a few ICs:

    • Samsung K3QF2F200B 16 Gb (2 GB) LPDDR3 SDRAM (we believe the Snapdragon 800 SoC is layered underneath)

    • Qualcomm PM8841 Power Management IC

    • Summit Microelectronics (owned by Qualcomm) SMB349 Programmable Single-Cell Lithium-Ion/Lithium-Polymer Battery Charger

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • The front side of the motherboard contains more ICs:

    • Maxim Integrated MAX97236 Audio Amplifier with Jack Detection

    • Qualcomm PM8941 Power Management IC

    • Qualcomm WCD9320 Audio Codec

    • Qualcomm Atheros QCA6234XH Integrated Dual-Band 2x2 802.11n +Bluetooth 4.0

    • Toshiba KC4 016 PVT 20F001147

      • Upon further inspection we discovered this IC to be the Toshiba THGBMAG7A2JBAIR 128 Gb (16 GB) e-MMC NAND Flash

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Using all the force of our adamantium claws nylon spudgers, we manage to free the 3.8 V, 4550 mAh battery from its adhesive.

  • For a device called the "Fire," we're having to bring a lot of our own heat: some mighty powerful adhesive holds the battery to the plastic midframe.

    • Plastic as in not very sturdy—we were worried we might just snap the front glass or LCD right in half. It's a good thing we didn't—it's a bit too late to use the "Mayday" button.

  • We're hoping that device manufacturers won't stick to the adhesive trend. We believe that even the worst offenders have a chance for redemption.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • A big up-sell from the 7" Kindle Fire HD, the HDX features a front-facing camera for selfies and Skyping.

  • If you're judging a Kindle by its cameras, here are the options for the Fall 2013 lineup:

    • Kindle Fire HD 7": no camera

    • Kindle Fire HDX 7": 720p front-facing camera

    • Kindle Fire HD 8.9": 720p front-facing camera

    • Kindle Fire HDX 8.9": 720p front-facing camera and 8 MP rear-facing camera

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Time to peel away another layer to test our midframe theory: Can we replace the motherboard with the midframe removed?

  • A little heat from an iOpener softens the adhesive around the bezel and makes sliding an opening pick around the edge a chore, as opposed to an outright nightmare.

    • This adhesive feels rubbery and balls up under the pick, making it pretty easy to remove the midframe. However, it will be difficult to replace; you'll need all new adhesive to get everything back together.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • The fancy new HDX display is revealed: It's the not-so-fancily named LG LD070WU2-SM01.

  • More ICs located on the back of the display assembly:

    • Synaptics S7301B Touchscreen Controller.

    • Novatek NT71392QG

    • Novatek NT50169B

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • We suspect Amazon was feeling a little insecure when they built the HDX. Like everything else, the antenna cables are seemingly over-secured.

  • These antenna cables are taped in multiple places, screwed down, and wrapped around the midframe—just in case.

  • After a vicious struggle, these suckers are finally free.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Kindle Fire HDX 7" Repairability: 3 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair)

  • Several modular components can be replaced individually.

  • The rear case is secured with screws and clips, so it can be removed (albeit with difficulty) without heat.

  • The battery is glued in place with strong adhesive and requires motherboard removal to replace.

  • The motherboard is very difficult to replace—the midframe must be separated from the display assembly in order to reinstall it.

  • The LCD is fused to the front glass, so you'll need to replace both components in the event of a cracked screen.

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Comments Comments are onturn off

What a bunch of losers. Whos going to take apart their brand new tablet? "Boo Amazon for gluing it on", really? So you would rather a crappy build just so one or two nerds can take one apart? Get a life.

noone, · Reply

Guess who cares about your opinion, look at your name, for the answer.


Cos you're a retard who doesn't know the purpose of the website you are visiting. iFixit is for the people who understand that there will come a time when you have to change the battery - typically after 1 year of daily charging.

So much for your glued crap that has to be thrown away when everybody else just opens it up to change a $30 battery.


Where is the Quad-core 2.2 GHz Snapdragon processor?

POP, · Reply

The processor is most likely layered beneath the RAM. While we didn't desolder to make 100% certain this time, it's very common practice, and the only logical place on the board. Take a look at our first Kindle Fire teardown, where we removed the RAM to find the processor layered beneath.

Andrew Optimus Goldberg,

What kind of glass protects the front panel? Is this a gorilla glass or something that needs a screen protector? Extra credit if you happened to discover which version of GG?

Wayne Anderson, · Reply

Just performed a LCD\ Digitizer replacement. Went very smooth. all that needed to come off was the top panel, screws. pried the back off with thin plastic piece. took out board and heated up front screen with a hair drier. it came off so easy.. put board back in, put new sticky strips in and connected the screen to the board, pealed off the paper on sticky strips and stuck it back.. Was alot easier then i was thinking... Thank you for the video it helped me out so much on where to start...

Anthony Minardi, · Reply

Where did you get the sticky strips?

Dylan Todd,

can anyone help with the easiest way of replacing the screen/digitizer? although i can still use my cracked hdx some parts of the screen are unresponsive

Lante Bannerman, · Reply

If you are replacing the screen, be EXTREMELY careful and make sure it is solidly adhered to its backing. I also recommend using a razor blade to cut the corners of the outer case so you can get it over the corners easier. I broke one of those screens when I was putting the case back on. It was an expensive mistake!

Dylan Todd, · Reply

May i have some help on how to remove the battery? Your guys mentioned to heat it up to remove the LCD, but what equipment should i use? And i tried to remove the battery myself, Amazon is really using some "good" glue. Any suggestion on remove it?

tjohn, · Reply

You'll need to use a spudger or prying tool (along with a bit of patience) to get underneath the battery and pry it free of the adhesive. Take a look at the Battery Replacement guide, which shows how to do this in more detail.

Ryan ONeill,

What connector does the hdx7's screen use? I am trying to find an adapter to dvi/hdmi to use it as a standalone monitor.

AssossaGPB, · Reply

I found this guide helpful because I needed to replace a cracked digitizer/LCD screen (found a replacement on Amazon); however, it isn't necessary to tear down the entire Kindle as demonstrated here in order to achieve this. I did steps 1-4, then detached the midframe from the screen/LCD. Aside from the 'magenta' colored screws there were no other screws to remove for my purpose. The midframe is adhered to the digitizer with some very sticky tape, so separating them requires patience, and maybe a hair dryer, which I used with great results. There is no need to remove the mother board. It was all pretty simple, and took me about 2 1/2 hours. A side note might be that I thought putting the rear case back on was more challenging than removing it. I do recommend using the appropriate tools. I used the ones recommended in this demonstration.

Stacye, · Reply

The Fire HD 7 has a front facing camera. The camera APP was hidden/difficult to get to but it does have a camera.

Rob Crocker, · Reply

Perhaps you're thinking of last year's model? This year's HD 7" doesn't have a camera.

Miroslav Djuric,

Anyone know where to buy a screen for the new HD 7" It doesn't have a camera!

Chris Halliwell, · Reply

If your screen is cracked can you buy just the glass? Where can I find the LCD-Digitizer Assembly fairly cheap? The ones I have seen are well over 150$. I just dropped my Kindle HDX last night and cracked the screen so I am in a hurry to get it fixed.


Chris, · Reply

I would also like to know where I can get a replacement screen. my daughter dropped mine and it hasn't been working since october of 2014.

Or is it just cheaper to buy a new Kindle?


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