Introduction

Look alive! We are going to tear down the Jura Impressa A9—your award-winning machine for your favorite cup 'o Joe.

What's more annoying than arriving at the office looking forward to a nice latte macchiato doppio and the machine won't grind or brew, or fails to steam the milk properly? Time to summon your last caffeine reserves and fix that source of acuteness of mind. It's teardown time!

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This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Impressa A9, use our service manual.

This machine cranks out caffeine at the touch of a button screen. Here are some of the highlights straight from Jura: Touchscreen display
  • This machine cranks out caffeine at the touch of a button screen. Here are some of the highlights straight from Jura:

    • Touchscreen display

    • Twelve specialty coffees

    • High efficiency grinder

    • Height-adjustable dual spout with fine foam technology

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First things first—before we go for guts and glory we start with the basic, "user-replaceable" parts. Removing the drip tray at the front and the water tank in the back is a cinch.
  • First things first—before we go for guts and glory we start with the basic, "user-replaceable" parts.

  • Removing the drip tray at the front and the water tank in the back is a cinch.

    • This can probably be performed half asleep, even before having your first cup in the morning.

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  • Next up, we remove the Jura cover plate with a quick counterclockwise twist and find ourselves in an awkward situation...

  • This oval-headed screw isn't unique, but it's a rarity for sure. We had to dig through our 64 Bit and Macro Bit Kit before finding the right Oval bit in our Universal Bit Kit. If you just need the single Oval bit we have it here.

    • We were prepared for such an obstacle this time around, but finding security screws (when a simple Phillips could do the job) is always frustrating.

  • With the security screw defiantly removed, we slide up the side-panel locking latch and move right along.

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  • Even with the latch released, the side panels don't want to budge, so we turn our attention to the top of the case for more clues.

  • Our slim and sturdy Jimmy comes in handy to handle the mechanism on both sides beneath the cover plate.

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As a short intermezzo we take a look at the display which seems to have some kind of service port to gather information in case of a malfunction. We flip it over, unscrew two small Phillips screws and discover the brains of  this piece of modern coffee technology: Microcontroller
  • As a short intermezzo we take a look at the display which seems to have some kind of service port to gather information in case of a malfunction.

  • We flip it over, unscrew two small Phillips screws and discover the brains of this piece of modern coffee technology:

    • Microcontroller

    • Macronix MX25U12835F 128Mb serial multi I/O flash memory

    • On Semiconductor MC34063A step-up/down inverting switching regulator

    • Oscillator

Microphone? Are you sure it's a microphone? Looks like oscillator to me.

netaroblackmage - Reply

Thanks, we fixed it!

Jasper Fleischhauer -

The microcontroller inside is a Renesas R5S72660W144FP#V0 I bet -- this is based on a SH2A SuperH RISC core. Bit of an oddball part, but it certainly has more than enough heft for controlling a coffee machine. Product folder: https://www.renesas.com/en-us/products/m...

ThreePhaseEel - Reply

What kind of touch panel does it use?

Andrey - Reply

Now all we have to do is simply grab a hold on the machine, poke the top latch, release the lower clasp, then slide the side panel out to the back. Right? Despite all poking, prodding, doing the hokey pokey and turning ourselves around, the panel refuses to move. Left with few options, we bring out the big guns to help negotiate our way inside.
  • Now all we have to do is simply grab a hold on the machine, poke the top latch, release the lower clasp, then slide the side panel out to the back. Right?

    • Despite all poking, prodding, doing the hokey pokey and turning ourselves around, the panel refuses to move.

  • Left with few options, we bring out the big guns to help negotiate our way inside.

  • With the right application of heat and strength, we finally manage to muscle the glass panel off the machine.

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Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Finally, with no glass panel to obfuscate its clip-in mechanism, we can see exactly where to focus our efforts. The second time around our four-handed effort pays off and … et voilà, off comes the side panel. No more heat gun drama on the other side—we can safely add this to the list of  teardown skills we've mastered.
  • Finally, with no glass panel to obfuscate its clip-in mechanism, we can see exactly where to focus our efforts.

  • The second time around our four-handed effort pays off and … et voilà, off comes the side panel.

  • No more heat gun drama on the other side—we can safely add this to the list of teardown skills we've mastered.

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After all this hustle we're relieved to find a handful of Torx screws securing the brewing unit on the machine's port side. After all this hustle we're relieved to find a handful of Torx screws securing the brewing unit on the machine's port side. After all this hustle we're relieved to find a handful of Torx screws securing the brewing unit on the machine's port side.
  • After all this hustle we're relieved to find a handful of Torx screws securing the brewing unit on the machine's port side.

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Having found the brain behind the display, this would be the heart of the machine, providing power to every component. Removing those colorful connectors and three Torx screws lets us get our hands on this junction. Getting those back on in the right order will be a challenge, so we take a reference picture.
  • Having found the brain behind the display, this would be the heart of the machine, providing power to every component.

  • Removing those colorful connectors and three Torx screws lets us get our hands on this junction.

    • Getting those back on in the right order will be a challenge, so we take a reference picture.

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Next we focus on the pump. After opening the metal clamp we unplug the hose running from the pump to the thermoblock. The tube at the bottom can simply be pulled off by hand when taking out the unit. The tube at the bottom can simply be pulled off by hand when taking out the unit.
  • Next we focus on the pump. After opening the metal clamp we unplug the hose running from the pump to the thermoblock.

  • The tube at the bottom can simply be pulled off by hand when taking out the unit.

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We follow the flow and remove the cover of the thermoblock which is secured by small plastic clips. The thermoblock itself can be taken out by rotating it counterclockwise – no screws for this little nautilus. The thermoblock itself can be taken out by rotating it counterclockwise – no screws for this little nautilus.
  • We follow the flow and remove the cover of the thermoblock which is secured by small plastic clips.

  • The thermoblock itself can be taken out by rotating it counterclockwise – no screws for this little nautilus.

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On our way to taking out the grinder we first have to take a look at the other side of the machine. Here we will remove the powder chute for pre-ground coffee as well as the funnel and the guide tube for the powder chute. Here we will remove the powder chute for pre-ground coffee as well as the funnel and the guide tube for the powder chute.
  • On our way to taking out the grinder we first have to take a look at the other side of the machine.

  • Here we will remove the powder chute for pre-ground coffee as well as the funnel and the guide tube for the powder chute.

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This reveals a small plastic frame which needs to be moved upwards to unlock the grinder. This reveals a small plastic frame which needs to be moved upwards to unlock the grinder.
  • This reveals a small plastic frame which needs to be moved upwards to unlock the grinder.

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Back on the dark side of the moon the packed side of the machine we remove a small pin and three Torx screws to make the grinder pop out. Back on the dark side of the moon the packed side of the machine we remove a small pin and three Torx screws to make the grinder pop out. Back on the dark side of the moon the packed side of the machine we remove a small pin and three Torx screws to make the grinder pop out.
  • Back on the dark side of the moon the packed side of the machine we remove a small pin and three Torx screws to make the grinder pop out.

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The gear motor with its encoder attached is fixed with only two Torx screws. The gear motor with its encoder attached is fixed with only two Torx screws.
  • The gear motor with its encoder attached is fixed with only two Torx screws.

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The connector of the drainage motor can easily be unplugged. Two more familiar Torx screws come loose and the motor is free. The connector of the drainage motor can easily be unplugged. Two more familiar Torx screws come loose and the motor is free.
  • The connector of the drainage motor can easily be unplugged. Two more familiar Torx screws come loose and the motor is free.

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The ceramic valve is a little bit more tricky to get out. We need to remove some small tubes as well as two screws from the bottom where we also have to handle a pair of plastic notches to finally slide it out. The ceramic valve is a little bit more tricky to get out. We need to remove some small tubes as well as two screws from the bottom where we also have to handle a pair of plastic notches to finally slide it out. The ceramic valve is a little bit more tricky to get out. We need to remove some small tubes as well as two screws from the bottom where we also have to handle a pair of plastic notches to finally slide it out.
  • The ceramic valve is a little bit more tricky to get out. We need to remove some small tubes as well as two screws from the bottom where we also have to handle a pair of plastic notches to finally slide it out.

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With the bulk of the modules spread across our teardown table, the remaining guts are just a few hoses and pipes. We've earned a cup of coffee and the Impressa A9 has earned a repairability score of 7 out of 10 (10 is the easiest to repair): The coffee maker is built with modular components that can be maintained separately. All screws inside are standard Torx.
  • With the bulk of the modules spread across our teardown table, the remaining guts are just a few hoses and pipes. We've earned a cup of coffee and the Impressa A9 has earned a repairability score of 7 out of 10 (10 is the easiest to repair):

    • The coffee maker is built with modular components that can be maintained separately. All screws inside are standard Torx.

    • There are no adhesives or one-way-clips used inside the machine. However the side panels with their glass front and tiny, invisible hooks are a major drag (even authorized technicians might struggle at this point).

    • The oval head screw behind the logo plate is one proprietary screw too many. The sole purpose of it is to keep you out.

    • There is no official documentation for repairs of internal components.

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6 Comments

I agree that its an oscillator / clock. The X1 screen printed on the PCB next to the item outlined in green, usually denotes X for Xtal (Crystal)

Geo - Reply

Thanks, we fixed it!

Jasper Fleischhauer -

Amazing work, but I have the Jura ena9 model. Is it a similar rigmarole?

Helen Price - Reply

Vielen Dank für die sehr schöne und detailierte Beschreibung. Sie hat mit heute sehr dabei geholfen, die Brüheinheit auszubauen und zu reinigen.Im Wesentlichen, ihr überhaupt durch die Seitenwände 'auf die Pelle zu rücken'. Hätte ich ohne die Anleitung wohl nicht geschafft bzw. gewagt!!!

Bernd Gröhbühl - Reply

Hallo Bernd,

freut uns zu hören, dass dir der Teardown helfen konnte.

Tobias Isakeit -

Hallo und Danke auch für diese Anweisung.

Ein wertvoller Tip wäre die Seitendeckel von vorne nach hinten wegschieben,

dies geht aber sehr schwer - also vorne an der Kante flach ein Stück Holz anlegen und mit einem Hammer nach hinten klopfen.

Das klappt dann wunderbar.

LG und viel Spaß

Joe Shorty - Reply

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