Introduction

We have had ours since August of 2008 and originally I worried that it was a waste of money and would last only a few years. But now, having figured out how to take it apart, seeing how well it is made, and with my growing skills at fixing things, I see no reason why this coffee maker won't be churning out fantastic coffee till we get our - star trek replicator.

To help keep you oriented while going through the photos and machine, I have divided the device into the following 6 sections: Top, Bottom, Front, Back, Left and Right.

One of the main frame members comes up through the middle effectively dividing the device into left and right halves.

This is not meant to be a complete guide - I'm just sharing what I have learned. I hope you can use this guide to help with internal cleaning, repairs and modifications.

It is recommended that you read the owners manual before attempting this guide ..please.

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Jura Capresso IMPRESSA J5, use our service manual.

Image 1/3: I thought I would start with lots of photos so you can see if you, in fact, have the same model, the J5, or, if you are trying to repair a similar one, what the differences are. Image 2/3: As I said in the introduction, I have divided the device into the following six sections:  Top, Bottom, Front, Back, Left and Right. Image 3/3: As I said in the introduction, I have divided the device into the following six sections:  Top, Bottom, Front, Back, Left and Right.
  • FRONT

  • I thought I would start with lots of photos so you can see if you, in fact, have the same model, the J5, or, if you are trying to repair a similar one, what the differences are.

  • As I said in the introduction, I have divided the device into the following six sections: Top, Bottom, Front, Back, Left and Right.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: From above, front: side and rear flaps closed. Image 2/3: Rear cover raised. Image 3/3: All covers raised.
  • TOP

  • From above, front: side and rear flaps closed.

  • Rear cover raised.

  • All covers raised.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Showing the underside and manufacturer's labels. Image 2/2: Showing the underside and manufacturer's labels.
  • BOTTOM

  • Showing the underside and manufacturer's labels.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Showing the water tank side. While my machine is black coloured with silver  trim, there is another model that is white with silver. Image 2/2: The second image shows the left-side cover raised and the water tank (right) removed: inside it you can see a water filter (vertical, white).
  • LEFT

  • Showing the water tank side. While my machine is black coloured with silver trim, there is another model that is white with silver.

  • The second image shows the left-side cover raised and the water tank (right) removed: inside it you can see a water filter (vertical, white).

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Right side, front to the left, and power cable.
  • RIGHT

  • Right side, front to the left, and power cable.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • BACK

Add Comment

Image 1/2: I recommend performing this on top of an old towel, or something similar, to protect the coffee maker as well as the work surface and because some ground coffee tends to fall out of various crevices in the machine. Image 2/2: '''''Remove:''''' all four tray pieces (marked with red squares in the first photo), and the frothing attachment(s) (marked with a green circle in the first photo; you may have a second frothing attachment in the top storage area (blue circle, photo 2)).
  • Beginning the Disassembly

  • I recommend performing this on top of an old towel, or something similar, to protect the coffee maker as well as the work surface and because some ground coffee tends to fall out of various crevices in the machine.

  • Remove: all four tray pieces (marked with red squares in the first photo), and the frothing attachment(s) (marked with a green circle in the first photo; you may have a second frothing attachment in the top storage area (blue circle, photo 2)).

  • Remove: the water container (marked with a red square), the coffee scoop (yellow circle), and the coffee bean aroma preservation cover (pink square), all the unground beans from the hopper (you can gently dump them out after you have removed everything else by turning the machine over).

  • You can (optionally) remove the top back cover by gently wiggling each of the hinge points (marked with pink circles) up while it is open. Gentle pressure from side to side may release the hinges. Also loosen the captive screw on the bean area and then you can remove that grate by gently squeezing together the two hinge points.

  • [You can click on the photos to see them enlarged. Alternatively, 1. choose the orange cog wheel in the photo and choose 'Full Screen', or, 2. use Ctrl and + (incl =) in your browser to enlarge the whole page. Use Ctrl - to shrink.]

Add Comment

Image 1/3: The original black screws were very hard to get out but I had luck with the needle nose pliers in my trusty Leatherman Charge model multi-tool. I tried with several alternative needle nose pliers. Image 2/3: There are specific Jura tools available from internet auction sites, tools that accept the slightly oval shaped heads of the recessed 'blind' screws. Image 3/3: I threw those screws away and replaced them with simple Phillips-head ones - that is why they appear silver in the photo while yours are probably black. I am pretty sure the manufacture does not want us to peek inside :o)
  • Five screws labeled with the red circles need to be removed before the top can be taken off. One under each of the left and right top hinged covers, two under the top back cover and of the two under the ground coffee top door, the one nearest the water tank (the other one holds the chrome plastic to the top).

  • The original black screws were very hard to get out but I had luck with the needle nose pliers in my trusty Leatherman Charge model multi-tool. I tried with several alternative needle nose pliers.

    • There are specific Jura tools available from internet auction sites, tools that accept the slightly oval shaped heads of the recessed 'blind' screws.

  • I threw those screws away and replaced them with simple Phillips-head ones - that is why they appear silver in the photo while yours are probably black. I am pretty sure the manufacture does not want us to peek inside :o)

  • Note: when putting the top back on you need to align the position of the bean grinder adjustment knob with the linkage below. It should line up easily unless you accidentally moved it (marked with a green circle).

    • Taking a close-up photo of the mechanism, in 'macro' mode, is recommended. If you find the photo is too dark, set the flash to 'On', and place a finger over 3/4 of the flash light when you take the photo - since full flash would be far too intense for a close shot.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: I have put a red square below the bean grate to point it out.
  • Here we are looking down on the top of the machine, the top shell (left) having been lifted straight up and the top back hinged cover having been removed along with the bean grate.

    • I have put a red square below the bean grate to point it out.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Careful, it is easily broken! (I re-attached mine tastefully with tape, having broken the attachment points. ;o) ) Image 2/3: Take a piece of tape, preferably painters tape, and make a small tape T-handle on the rear Jura badge. A small piece of rubber might work or you might be able to get it off with just clean fingers and skin friction. Image 3/3: Carefully push in and twist it to the left ~1/10 of a turn. Then, when you feel that it has come loose, pull it gently out to remove it. It is held in place by little lugs and pressure tangs.
  • You can do this step before or after you remove the top.

  • Careful, it is easily broken! (I re-attached mine tastefully with tape, having broken the attachment points. ;o) )

  • Take a piece of tape, preferably painters tape, and make a small tape T-handle on the rear Jura badge. A small piece of rubber might work or you might be able to get it off with just clean fingers and skin friction.

  • Carefully push in and twist it to the left ~1/10 of a turn. Then, when you feel that it has come loose, pull it gently out to remove it. It is held in place by little lugs and pressure tangs.

  • After the rear Jura badge has been removed, behind it you will find two T15 Torx screws marked with red circles in the second picture. They must be removed.

  • You can then gently wiggle free the vertical plastic chrome piece that is on the rear - pull out and down (to unhook it) and set that aside.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Slide the right black (or white) side piece ~5 mm towards the back to remove it. (The right side needs to be removed before the left; you will see an overlap of the sides at the rear centre.) Image 2/3: Then slide the left side back to remove it. The left side is slightly trickier to get on and off as you have to work around the water container inlet. Image 3/3: In the second picture I marked with red circles two of the many tabs that hold the sides in place. I broke and reattached a few of mine. I had no guide and I really wanted it apart so basically I got it apart the wrong way and then figured out the right way :o)
  • The T15 screw marked in red is the last screw you need to remove before the left and right side covers can be removed

  • Slide the right black (or white) side piece ~5 mm towards the back to remove it. (The right side needs to be removed before the left; you will see an overlap of the sides at the rear centre.)

  • Then slide the left side back to remove it. The left side is slightly trickier to get on and off as you have to work around the water container inlet.

  • In the second picture I marked with red circles two of the many tabs that hold the sides in place. I broke and reattached a few of mine. I had no guide and I really wanted it apart so basically I got it apart the wrong way and then figured out the right way :o)

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Back internals

Add Comment

Image 1/1: The pink circle marks the EM shield for the [http://backtothefuture.wikia.com/wiki/Flux_capacitor|flux capacitor], which is behind that plastic black piece.
  • Right side internals

  • The pink circle marks the EM shield for the flux capacitor, which is behind that plastic black piece.

    • ;o)

BTW, one boiler or two?

tkorsak - Reply

Image 1/2: The second photo has the black plastic divider plate removed. It just snaps out of and in to little guide tabs. Image 2/2: The second photo has the black plastic divider plate removed. It just snaps out of and in to little guide tabs.
  • Left Side Internals

  • The second photo has the black plastic divider plate removed. It just snaps out of and in to little guide tabs.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: I call the black plastic diagonal assembly with the brown top the "tamping assembly". It receives the ground coffee, forms the puck, holds the puck while the water/steam goes through it, and then drops it in the waste tray (I presume). Image 2/3: '''''Note''''' If you choose to remove the tamping assembly you should carefully note where the brown portion is on the larger centre plastic screw. Maybe take a picture, or count exactly how many threads are above the brown portion. Image 3/3: When you reassemble, this it needs to be in the exact orientation it was in when you took it apart or it might break the machine. I realised it was a timing mechanism after having taken it apart and misaligned it. Luckily I had pictures to help get it back to the starting position.
  • "Tamping Assembly"

  • I call the black plastic diagonal assembly with the brown top the "tamping assembly". It receives the ground coffee, forms the puck, holds the puck while the water/steam goes through it, and then drops it in the waste tray (I presume).

  • Note If you choose to remove the tamping assembly you should carefully note where the brown portion is on the larger centre plastic screw. Maybe take a picture, or count exactly how many threads are above the brown portion.

  • When you reassemble, this it needs to be in the exact orientation it was in when you took it apart or it might break the machine. I realised it was a timing mechanism after having taken it apart and misaligned it. Luckily I had pictures to help get it back to the starting position.

  • Remove the three screws marked with the red circles. From left to right, they are T15 (top two) and T10. Note the screw marked with a blue sqaure does not need to be removed to remove the tamping assembly. Also note the unused screw hole marked with a green square. You might need a long handled screw driver or an extension bit. Odd inconsistency.

Nonsense, in my opinion machine encoder counts the current position from the hard stop, found after every electric line power-up!

tkorsak - Reply

or that could be true:)

igolten - Reply

Image 1/2: The reason for such a large quantity of grounds around the inside of my machine is that I accidentally put too much ground coffee into the ground coffee port. So I took the machine apart to clean those out, and because it was displaying an error during the cleaning cycle. Image 2/2: The error was caused by the excess grounds and cleaning it solved the problem.
  • Tamping Assembly Removed - 1

  • The reason for such a large quantity of grounds around the inside of my machine is that I accidentally put too much ground coffee into the ground coffee port. So I took the machine apart to clean those out, and because it was displaying an error during the cleaning cycle.

  • The error was caused by the excess grounds and cleaning it solved the problem.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Tamping Assembly Removed - 2

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Tamper Assembly Removed - Top

Add Comment

Image 1/3: You can see some growth (mold?!) on the bottom of the tamper in these photo and a little elsewhere. Image 2/3: I think this is because if I don't empty out the grounds often enough and have a little mold growth there. Image 3/3: I would love to solve this mold growth problem but can't think of an easy solution? (UV light?,) I tried leaving a small amount of a dilute bleach solution in the ground collector but that stank and did not work. White vinegar, perhaps..? So now I just try to empty the grounds and rinse at least once a day.
  • Tamper Assembly Removed - Bottom

  • You can see some growth (mold?!) on the bottom of the tamper in these photo and a little elsewhere.

  • I think this is because if I don't empty out the grounds often enough and have a little mold growth there.

  • I would love to solve this mold growth problem but can't think of an easy solution? (UV light?,) I tried leaving a small amount of a dilute bleach solution in the ground collector but that stank and did not work. White vinegar, perhaps..? So now I just try to empty the grounds and rinse at least once a day.

  • So that is it...!? This is as far as I have disassembled, fixed and cleaned this beloved family member. I will try to read comments and improve it and add to it if I do more. Hopefully you found this useful - thanks for reading it!

Add Comment

igolten

Member since: 09/01/2012

137 Reputation

1 Guide authored

14 Comments

Thanks for posting pics. I'm dealing with an error 5 issue and looking for the thermal block/thermal website. Can you point those out in the pics? Thanks!

Andres - Reply

Sorry to hear about your error unfortunately I don't know where that is nor have I seen that error. If had to guess i would say it would be behind that black shield shown in picture 13. If you feel up to it I would take it apart clean the unit and see if you can trace the water hosing and I would guess the thermal block would be just up stream before the water goes over the compressed coffee puck. Look for simple stuff like loose electrical connections, dirt etc. Also I have had some luck calling Capresso support.

http://www.capresso.com/contact.shtml

good luck please post what you find thank you

igolten - Reply

I followed all the advice about cleaning out the grinding part since i could hear no beans grinding... that worked! However, it would grind beans and then no liquid would come out. I think there is something blocking the ground coffee from reaching the puck-making part. Any suggestions? By the way, awesome pics and much thanks for the time it took you to do this!

Troy

Troy - Reply

Sorry Troy just saw your comment, (I guess I missed the email from ifixit about it?) My advice would be to remove as much as you can with it still being functional and then maybe you could see what the problem is as it runs? Our is still working great but a friend of mine, who I made this guide for originally did recently send his back to the manufacturer and for $250 (including shipping) it came back like new. I have not seen it since but I gather they replaced all the wearing parts, cleaned and inspected it. The problem he was having was an error code that he could not figure out.

igolten - Reply

What is wrong? When I put the power on, the fuse goes

frankh - Reply

What is wrong? When I put power on, the fuse goes

frankh - Reply

Does anybody know anything about the logic board? Is it replaceable? My message center has locked itself in to a never ending circle which disallows the making of any coffee. I am unable to exit the de-scale portion of the decalcifying process. Any help would be appreciated.

Adele Simons - Reply

I'm having the same issue. please keep us informed. thank you

lilyhop -

Adele sorry to hear about your trouble. I doubt the manufacturer sells those kind of parts. I assume you have tried removing power from it for a while then plugging it back it. I would recommend contacting http://www.capresso.com/contact.shtml

I have had good luck with talking to them. Also my friend sent his in for refurbishment by Capresso (~$250) and he said it came back like new:) If mine ever dies I plan on doing that. Also you could try taking it apart and looking for anything out of sorts. Good luck

igolten - Reply

This is great info thanks. We are getting a 'system filling' message when we first turn the unit on, sometimes accompanied by an unpleasant grinding noise, and then our J5 works correctly. One post I've seen suggests that the Clearyl filter may have come open and some charcoal is lodged somewhere in the system. Do you have any experience with this? Thanks for any advice.

Rob K - Reply

no experience but if I felt gutsy enough I would disassemble the water path and flush it out but then you might get leaks and or need to replace some of the parts. At the very least I would take off the panels look at the lines and see how difficult disassembly / reassembly might be then weigh that vs sending it to Capresso.

igolten - Reply

OK thank you!

Rob K - Reply

my top control knob the one which controls coffee strength and cup oz has become stiff and difficult to turn, can it be replaced or cleaned?

svseaodyssey - Reply

The top control knob sometimes gets coffee grounds built up under it. Try removing the top off the machine as above and see if you can clean it.

stephendash - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 11

Past 7 Days: 133

Past 30 Days: 565

All Time: 18,163