Apple Wireless Keyboard (A1255) Teardown

Teardown

Teardown

Teardowns provide a look inside a device and should not be used as disassembly instructions.

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Member-Contributed Guide

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

I bought this keyboard off eBay broken just to tear it down for posterity. I found very little that could be repaired on it. But you get to see its guts. This teardown destroys the keyboard!

Edit Step 1 Apple Wireless Keyboard (A1255) Teardown  ¶ 

Image 1/2: To open the battery compartment, on the left side of the keyboard use a coin to loosen the screw off cover.

Edit Step 1 Apple Wireless Keyboard (A1255) Teardown  ¶ 

  • To open the battery compartment, on the left side of the keyboard use a coin to loosen the screw off cover.

  • The keyboard's power button is on the right side

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The upper left hand corner (when turned over) of the keyboard contains the On/Off switch and the bluetooth board.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • The upper left hand corner (when turned over) of the keyboard contains the On/Off switch and the bluetooth board.

  • The removable plastic covering plate may be removed by squeezing it together to release the retaining hooks, Do one side at a time, Squeeze and rotate upward.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The plastic is very stiff and there are three sets of two hooks on each side.  This one has been deformed on the back right hand side from a  heat gun.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • The plastic is very stiff and there are three sets of two hooks on each side. This one has been deformed on the back right hand side from a heat gun.

  • There is a 90 mm by 12 mm circuit board intersected by a vertical 53 mm by 7 mm board forming a T shape. The vertical board appears to be the bluetooth antenna.

  • Part # 820-2181 is printed on the board.

  • This board also has the Power Indicating LED light. This board fits inside the round casing unit by the power button. The power button, battery connector and keyboard all connect to this board.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap. Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket. It slides out from under the 'vertical' board.  Shouldn't be too difficult.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap. Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket. It slides out from under the 'vertical' board. Shouldn't be too difficult.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Ater removing the screw the board can be gently extricated from the tube. The white plastic disc to the right of the screw needs to be pushed to the right to free up the board.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • The board is held in place with a small Phillips screw.

  • Ater removing the screw the board can be gently extricated from the tube. The white plastic disc to the right of the screw needs to be pushed to the right to free up the board.

  • Note the red and black wires. This connector inserts laterally. The wires go to the battery receptor in the middle of the tube.

  • The screw is in two parts, a phillips screw goes into a post screw. The top screw holds in the board and the post screw holds the On/Off switch in place.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Here's the obverse of the board.  There is a black two prong connector that plugs into the board from the power switch.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Here's the obverse of the board. There is a black two prong connector that plugs into the board from the power switch.

  • The wires run under a small plastic retaining tab and can be moved downward and out.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The power switch is held in place by the Main Board Bracket. Apple Part # 815-9674.  The end of the bracket has a small round protrusion that fits into a crescent shaped cut out on the power switch.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • The power switch is held in place by the Main Board Bracket. Apple Part # 815-9674. The end of the bracket has a small round protrusion that fits into a crescent shaped cut out on the power switch.

  • The Power Button Board can be pushed out from the inside.

  • The red wire goes to "TP2", the black wire to "TP1"

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The internal battery terminal can be knocked out with a long screwdriver. It is spring loaded and held in place by a metal expansion ring.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • The internal battery terminal can be knocked out with a long screwdriver. It is spring loaded and held in place by a metal expansion ring.

  • I could not discern how the exact placement is determined as the interior of the tube appears to be perfectly smooth.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image 1/3: More photos of the battery terminal.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • More photos of the battery terminal.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Removal of the back of the keyboard was done using a heat gun and a scalpel.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Removal of the back of the keyboard was done using a heat gun and a scalpel.

  • Heating the board quickly warps and destroys it.

  • Glue is all over the bottom plate. It was separated by pulling it apart and slicing the glue with a scalpel.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Image 1/3: There are ten 2 mm screws located on the back of the board.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • There are ten 2 mm screws located on the back of the board.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The keyboard is pushed away from the frame.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • The keyboard is pushed away from the frame.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The layers are pulled apart.  Frame, plastic separator layer, printed circuit layer

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • The layers are pulled apart. Frame, plastic separator layer, printed circuit layer

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Here can be seen the layers of the frame, separator, circuit board and metal back plate.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Here can be seen the layers of the frame, separator, circuit board and metal back plate.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Here we can see the different types of key mounting and scissor mountings

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Here we can see the different types of key mounting and scissor mountings

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Keys can be easily removed by using a scalpel or fingernail under the left side and lifted.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Keys can be easily removed by using a scalpel or fingernail under the left side and lifted.

Edit Step 17 Close-up of the compartments  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Here you can see the pole that the screw went in.  You can remove this, which allows you to remove the power button and the white housing.

Edit Step 17 Close-up of the compartments  ¶ 

  • Here you can see the pole that the screw went in. You can remove this, which allows you to remove the power button and the white housing.

  • Also, here is the battery terminal (spring loaded) which had to be forced out. It's held in the tube by the expansion ring, which unfortunately is the best-made bit of this keyboard. I forced it out using a long screw driver, but unfortunately broke the wires. Keyboard had died anyway, thanks Apple.

19 Comments

Add a comment

This keyboard holds 3 AA batteries not 2.

Clark Tucker - Reply

No quibble at all. My keyboard ca. 2010 years old is two batteries. No question but that the A1255 had three, the A1314 which I have is two. Duh! (for me). I didn't think initially about model numbers and I got enough out of this to make it work

Thanks to this post I managed to remove a stuck battery on an A1314, pushing the battery out with a letter opener.

The ribbon cable is not hard to remove, but a little trick to open and relock it back? I just had cataract surgery which didn't help, but it's pretty obvious when you take a close look.

There was no corrosion; the keyboard was working. Someone installed off-brand batteries, no leaks just stuck. New name brand (copper tops) slide in and out without a problem.

jmc56 -

If you kept the keys, I'd like to buy an "L" key and the plastic/rubber part that goes underneath. Little accident with my keyboard left L key inoperable .... ;-)

Kevin

Kevin McKean - Reply

How did you manage to knock out the battery terminal with only a screwdriver and from which end of the aluminum encasement did you knock it out?

Joseph Parrie - Reply

Hi!

Do you know where i can buy the logic board for this keyboard??

Thanks

guillaumerodriguez - Reply

Wow.. you destroyed this thing! It would be great to have a guide that wouldn't need you to replace every component after opening it up! I'm looking into powder coating (once I remove the anodizing) this and my apple trackpad, so I would like to not destroy any part. I wonder what kind of glue can be used to re-bond the base to the frame...? Thank you for at least showing us what "not" to do when tearing it down.

Will - Reply

I had this keyboard fail on me, and the 'ball of tin foil in the battery compartment' didn't work.

The grey plastic pops off with a small screwdriver - 6 clips hold it in place.

Re: the screw that’s at the ‘button’ end. Remove the screw, then you remove the ‘pole’ that the screw went into (it unscrews too). This will allow you to remove the board (it’s a squeeze, but you can pull it out) - you might need to push in the white plastic beside the button wall to allow you to get it out.

I was unable to non-destructively remove the internal battery terminal. The metal expansion ring which holds it in place appears to be the most well-made part of this entire £59 keyboard :( Only way I found was to knock it through forcefully with a long screwdriver - from the 'internal' end, out through the battery hole. The red wire became disconnected when I did this. It was connected to the point that sticks out the bottom of the battery terminal. Black wire connects to the expansion ring.

Good luck

gordon jackson - Reply

Thanks a lot for the detailed tear down description! I was able to repair my keyboard and have no to by a new one. I don know how it can happen, but after a battery change the plastic cap on the end of the battery terminal was flipped around and the battery's positive terminal had no contact with the current collector.

axf - Reply

I recommend to use small multigrip pliers (Hazet 760 N-1) instead of the heat gun to remove the plastic cover. Squeeze the cover from both sides and it will go off without destroying or bending it permanently.

axf - Reply

The picture is missing ! :-/

Tnx

Eric Cartman - Reply

About the two parts screw; The upper screw can be removed with a PH 0x50 screw driver. The lower screw is a Torx screw. A T7 Torx crew diver can be uses, but is a bit slack in my opinion.

axf - Reply

How did you manage to knock out the battery terminal with only a screwdriver?

Magno Santos - Reply

if you kept the battery cover, I'll buy it from ya.

Roey - Reply

note that the picture shows the battery terminal is broken by knocking it out with a screwdriver. You need a special set of long nosed pliers that can remove the circlip by contracting it.

Steve Pavarno - Reply

I used two extension bars and a socket of a 1/4" socket set to knock out the battery terminal form the logic board side to the battery load hole without destroying anything. I have not removed the circlip beforehand.

The battery terminal is hold in place by a small heel in the tube. The circlip will clip in when you later push the battery terminal back.

I used a circlip pliers (Hazet 1843a - 12) to squeeze the circlip an bring the whole battery terminal back into the battery tube. I used the same tools to knock in the battery terminal until it latches into its designated position.

axf - Reply

Hi! I was wondering if you had a temperature scale to give us.

There is lot of plastic on these pretty things, I'd prefer not to deform any part of it with too many heat.

My idea is to use a heat table which is more accurate, and non destructive.

Maxime Gratiot - Reply

Using a small screwdriver to get under the plastic cover, it is possible to gradually work around prising the plastic away from the adhesive sheet.

All to no avail though as once all the screws are removed, you realise that the metal backplate is spot- welded to the aluminium frame all the way around the edge and dozens of spots in between.

No separating the layers I'm afraid, so little point in prising off the back.

Mark Snape - Reply

The A1314 from my 2009 iMac has no screws! Everything is spot-welded together

george - Reply

My hp keyboard once had a start button cover removed and I popped it back on and vola!!!!!!!!!!

Ursopeppy - Reply


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