Amazon Echo Teardown

Teardown

Teardown

Teardowns provide a look inside a device and should not be used as disassembly instructions.

The Amazon Echo aims to be your in-home personal assistant, in the form of a Wi-Fi connected tower speaker. Are smart speakers the next big thing? Follow us inside this new device for the inside scoop. Hey Alexa, it's teardown time.

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Edit Step 1 Amazon Echo Teardown  ¶ 

Image 1/3: 2.5" woofer, with a reflex port to drop a little extra bass

Edit Step 1 Amazon Echo Teardown  ¶ 

  • Amazon Echo: World's smartest speaker, or world's tallest Siri? Tech specs include:

    • 2.5" woofer, with a reflex port to drop a little extra bass

    • 2.0" tweeter

    • 7-microphone array

    • Light ring volume adjustment

    • Remote control

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Lifehack: While you're waiting for Amazon to decide to let you buy an Echo of your own, [https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/QOnHkIOPt4te1IN2|use soup cans to test out where you might put it in your home|new_window=true]. Then [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkOCeAtKHIc#t=159|ask it to do your homework|new_window=true]. Have fun!

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

8 Edit Step 3  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Just a little stick, peeling does the trick.

8 Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Amazon sealed the Echo up tight, with nary a fastener in sight. Time to peel up the foot and take a look.

    • Just a little stick, peeling does the trick.

  • Four impressively long T10 screws hold the bottom stage of the Echo rocket in place. Thanks, Amazon, for a standard fastener that we're really good at removing.

  • The plate flips over, held in place by a data cable and speaker lines.

6 Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Texas Instruments TPS53312, likely an updated version of the [http://www.ti.com/product/tps53311|TPS53311|new_window=true] 3A Step-Down Regulator with Integrated Switcher

6 Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • The power and speaker driver board lives on the bottom of the stack.

    • Texas Instruments TPS53312, likely an updated version of the TPS53311 3A Step-Down Regulator with Integrated Switcher

    • Texas Instruments TLV320DAC3203 Ultra Low Power Stereo Audio Codec

    • Texas Instruments TPA3110D2 15W Filter-Free Class D Stereo Amplifier

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Echo's design continues to remind us of a rocket, with several [http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c3/Stages_cutaway.jpg|stages|new_window=true] stacked within an outer shroud.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Echo have layer

  • Echo's design continues to remind us of a rocket, with several stages stacked within an outer shroud.

  • We'll have to keep peeling off stages to get to the brains of this operation.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/3: It takes a skillful combination of knifery and peeling double-stick tape, but we eventually get the fabric off, exposing a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pareidolia|sad-looking mouth|new_window=true] and the start of our path to a free motherboard.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • With the outer housing removed, we find some vibration-dampening fabric swaddling the speakers.

  • It takes a skillful combination of knifery and peeling double-stick tape, but we eventually get the fabric off, exposing a sad-looking mouth and the start of our path to a free motherboard.

Image 1/3: ''Stage separation in 3..2..1..''
  • The tower of components that remains is starting to remind us of a certain dark fortress. We'll keep an eye out for anything suspicious.

  • Stage separation in 3..2..1..

    • Tweeter separated, and removed from its housing. Check out that magnet.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/3: This heavy duty woofer has an even heftier magnet than its tweeting twin.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Final stage, ejecting the woofer from the spacecraft main body.

  • This heavy duty woofer has an even heftier magnet than its tweeting twin.

    • Amazon promises "deep bass response," thanks to this woofer and some funneling by the reflex port; more on that part later.

  • The internals seem to feature a complex woven spider. Also known as a damper.

9 Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image 1/2: This feels [guide|20778|familiar|stepid=56742].

9 Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • The Echo has made it into orbit, and is ready to launch its payload. Our handy T10 screwdriver is again put to the test to free the motherboard.

  • This feels familiar.

    • But honestly, there are only so many places you can put a large rectangle in a tube, right?

  • Time to excavate the board and check out its tasty chips!

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Texas Instruments [http://www.ti.com/product/dm3725|DM3725CUS100|new_window=true] Digital Media Processor

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Here's what's powering the Echo:

    • Texas Instruments DM3725CUS100 Digital Media Processor

    • Samsung K4X2G323PD-8GD8 256 MB LPDDR1 RAM

    • SanDisk SDIN7DP2-4G 4 GB iNAND Ultra Flash Memory

    • Qualcomm Atheros QCA6234X-AM2D Wi-Fi and Bluetooth Module

    • Texas Instruments TPS65910A1 Integrated Power Management IC

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Speakers are all well and good, but Alexa's true mouthpiece is the swivel-top volume control and light ring. Alexa acknowledges a voice command by changing the LEDs pointing toward you from blue to...lighter blue.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Now for the fun part!

    • Speakers are all well and good, but Alexa's true mouthpiece is the swivel-top volume control and light ring. Alexa acknowledges a voice command by changing the LEDs pointing toward you from blue to...lighter blue.

  • The volume dial contains the user-interactive bits: the top portion spins freely, using a greased-up gear to turn an encoder...

    • ...which you can also control via voice command!

      • Pro tip: take the Echo out of its protective plastic covering before attempting volume level 10.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The Echo uses a gearing system and encoder to track movement of the outer wheel, whereas the Nest uses an optical sensor to watch the outer ring spin by.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Popping off the final guard, the greased gear is free to go. The Echo's spinning input wheel is similar to that of the Nest Thermostat, but is implemented completely differently.

    • The Echo uses a gearing system and encoder to track movement of the outer wheel, whereas the Nest uses an optical sensor to watch the outer ring spin by.

  • Around the edge of the wheel, we find the microphones responsible for hearing your commands (six on the perimeter, plus one in the center of the board), and LEDs used to indicate Alexa's acknowledgement.

12 Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Only a thin layer of precision-cut foam, complete with microphone mesh and plastic window covers, stands between us and daughterboard freedom.

12 Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • We gently separate the LED/microphone board from the topmost plastic button cover.

  • Only a thin layer of precision-cut foam, complete with microphone mesh and plastic window covers, stands between us and daughterboard freedom.

    • Texas Instruments LP55231 Programmable 9-Output LED Driver (x4)

    • Texas Instruments TLV320ADC3101 92dB SNR Low-Power Stereo ADC (x4)

    • Texas Instruments SN74LVC74A Dual Positive-Edge-Triggered D-Type Flip-Flops

    • S1053 0090 V6 Microphone (x7)

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Image 1/2: [http://youtu.be/sI_Pl5GJOsY|Cantina song|new_window=true], anyone?

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • And here we remove the saxophonereflex port.

  • The reflex port, also known as a bass reflex system, boosts the bass while minimizing distortion.

  • The strange shape takes full advantage of the limited space inside the Echo, while allowing Alexa to yell at you from across the room.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

Image 1/2: The speakers (the components most likely to fail) are replaceable.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Amazon Echo Repairability Score: 7 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair)

    • The speakers (the components most likely to fail) are replaceable.

    • Separating components across three circuit boards improves modularity.

    • Adhesive is used in two places—the rubber foot, and the fabric shroud. Removing the shroud requires a knife, and you'll need to tape it back together.

    • This is a fairly complex device—and with no repair documentation available, reassembly is especially difficult.

71 Comments

Is there a teardown of the remote itself?

gamin - Reply

Would like to toggle the microphones on and off. Possible?

GoghFixIt - Reply

Yes, there's a microphone mute button on the top. Pressing it also causes the light ring to glow an angry red. (My wife says that she doesn't like being ignored.)

musher -

Excuse me but what is the power draw for the Echo? I run on solar power.

Adam McDougall - Reply

About 3 watts, 7 VA on standby. Not much more when playing music, maybe 4W/8VA.

sparkie001 -

Does anyone know where to find the S1053 0090 V6 microphones? there's no manufacturer referenced.

jvalal - Reply

Hello. Thanks for taking the time to share this. You did an awesome presentation! I own an Amazon echo that looks like the power /speaker driver circuit board is bad. It got very wet. I cleaned all the corrosion off but evidently the damage is done. It powers up but no sound. Do you happen to have the part # for that board? I really hate to discard it because of this simple fix ya know? Thanks. Dennis , dgmenace at g mail

dgmenace - Reply

I figured you'd crack it open to reveal a FirePhone.

daveedgar - Reply

That cracked me up!

lnyhome -

Great post! My toddler got a hold of the cord and pulled the Echo down onto the floor, ejecting the top ring like a missile. Well, with these instructions and some luck (sticking the wired connectors into the socket was ridiculous until I realized that there is a clamping mechanism on one of the two sockets), I was able to cobble it back together and it works like a charm. Thanks!

jefs99 - Reply

Would love to create a Digital out to by-pass the internal DAC.

I want to hook this up to my DAC/Pre-Amp, but I would need a digital out to do it.

Any thoughts?

Michael Williams - Reply

My echo simply died. No lights, no sound, nothing...

I have taken it apart and see nothing wrong? Back together and still nothing. Any ideas? I hate to trash the thing. Great weather reports and all.

Wally - Reply

Yes. it is the power supply - just get a new one from Amazon.

jeff -

The same thing happened to mine and Amazon sent me a new power cord. Unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. It is still dead. Had to purchase a new one because the warranty was up.

Michael Reingruber -

Is this doing any Speech to text Conversion locally or using AWS for that. I would think audio files going back and forth would be slow, but it seems to be very responsive.

Ven Kumar - Reply

Does this do any Speech to text conversion locally ( Maybe the TX Digital Media Processor does that). If is is sending audio files to aws then latency would be an issue. It seems to be very responsive and fast in interactions

Ven Kumar - Reply

this person shows how to wire the echo for SONOS. Will this work for other audio output device?

https://medium.com/@MathiasHansen/hackin...

G U M B Y - Reply

Do you know where to buy the replacement tweeter speaker?

jamnpb2 - Reply

My Echo Fell on the carpet and the top came apart . how do I assemble it together?

brcoyne1 - Reply

My kids kicked it off the table and the top came off. How do you put the ribbon connector back into the device. Do I need to take it apart?

tonywelter - Reply

My echo died out of warranty. My voltmeter shows zero between the center of the power plug and its outside so I'm *guessing* it's a power supply problem unless the supply is sufficiently smart to only turn on when it's plugged in to Echo. Does anyone know the polarity of the plug? Comments?

John Kallend - Reply

Is that a USB port I see?

Stephen Shaw - Reply

No USB. It looks like a test/programming port for manufacturing.

Paul Franzosa -

So any estimate on the part's costs overall? curious to also know the specs on the speakers.

Eric - Reply

What struck me about this device is the amount of assembly required at the factory. It's not like there are a zillion parts, but humans on the assembly line have to do a lot of work.

Larry Clark - Reply

What is the "rubber foot" made of? In converting my Amazon Echo to mobile use with UPS, I tried to drill the metal(?) plate within the rubber foot but nothing would attack it, neither tungsten nor carbide. Since there are no wires, I am hoping this is not a critical part because I had to eliminate it during modification reassembly. Everything seems to work fine and the small UPS installed in a small attached base box runs for approx 1.5 hours.

simbafish1 - Reply

Can you describe your steps for how you powered this? I would like to connect using 12V in my RV but I'm not sure it's possible without a small inverter.

daviddaugherty -

Any idea what diameter, length and thread type these screws are? I pulled one out, and eyeballing it, it looks to be 3mm x 40 to 45mm long. The only thing I'm completely unsure of is the thread type. If I could match that up, I'd like to get some slightly longer screws to help with a bolt-through mount I'm working on.

James Bowen - Reply

My unit died. Received additional cord from Amazon tested and still will not power on or anything. Is this very bottom board what should be replaced. Actually see one for sale on eBay and am curious as am out of warranty

Del - Reply

What type/size of 2 pin connectors are used to attach the Echo's speakers to the amplifier? I plan to add 3mm audio jacks so I can connect powered satellite speakers and a powered subwoofer. I would like to avoid splicing the Eco's speaker wires if possible.

Gabe Powell - Reply

like to know this too. and if anyone has an example of the wiring to add a 3.5mm out

kovar -

One more thing, has anyone measured the output of the 115v ac to dc power adapter or the size of the power plug that connects to the echo? I am going to try to power my Echo with an 18v cordless drill battery and need to know how much to step down the battery's volts/amps. I thin I can cut the handle off of an old 18v Dewalt cordless drill and use some pvc fittings to turn the battery in to a new base (spray painted black of course).

Gabe Powell - Reply

I've been considering doing something similar. I want to know if I can buy the right connector tip somewhere or if I have to buy another power adapter just so I can cut the end off it. Have you figured out anything useful?

Kevin Hagerty -

Has anyone done a stereo line level or headphone output on the echo? I want to hook it up to my whole house audio setup.

Erick Dillon - Reply

I do too, cant believe its not there.

Jim Culmone -

Curious to know what your thoughts are related to being able to add a headphone jack to the echo. Normally, I'd just think about splicing the speaker wires and putting a switch in the middle so I could toggle between the headphone jack output and the onboard speaker, but it appears from the photo that the speaker is connected using a ribbon cable? Can you confirm?

Dave Meeker - Reply

Bump... I would like to know this as well

Robert Rico -

Dave, just did this today. Spliced into the speaker wires (need to splice both tweeter and sub wires), to audio out jack. Now I can plug into house stereo which is the split throughout the house. Echo speakers continue to function as well. The most difficult part was mounting the audio out due to space. Ultimately just ran the spliced wires out of the echo and made a little audio out housing box which sits next to the echo. I have no plans to now move it since audio is now pushed through the entire house. The seperate audio out box does not bother me since it is hidden behind the house stereo.

TM - Reply

A picture of that would be great! IMO, that is one major feature they overlooked.

Jeff Reid -

picture please

kovar -

Do you perhaps have any pictures to share about how you did this - and or where you sliced the wires? I do not want to open Echo - before I know how difficult it would be. I am pretty handy with electronics - but not sure about Echo.

Thanks

Albertus de Wet -

So are you getting stereo output. I was thinking of getting the output from the TLV320 chip as this should be before the amp.. Not sure if that has stereo out either.. obviously grabbing output from the speaker is easier but I will need to use a convertor to not overload the pre-amp on my stereo input.

PW -

1 woofer + 1 tweeter = mono..

How does it sound hooked to home stereo? Did you use woofer & tweeter for R&L?

Jim Culmone -

Hey TM! We would love to know some details on how you tapped the signal. L=Woofer,R=Tweeter, or did you somehow combine the two into a meaningful sound? I'm trying to hook up headphones for a hearing-impaired elderly user. W was too thundering and T was too sharp. I hesitate to just join the two blacks and two reds, but I might just try it.

TJVT -

I agree with Jim Culmone 1 tweeter + 1 woofer = mono output. To get this to a stereo output I would think you would need to connect the echo signals out to an external crossover with a stereo output and then plug that into your stereo system. I really can't see how putting your tweeter output and woofer output on separate left and right channels would give you an acceptable listening experience but that's just me. If it sounds okay to you then you're good.

phil -

BTW, thanks for the teardown, otherwise I would not have attempted this and just sent the unit back for return.

TM - Reply

The audio out connectors appears to be "JST" type 2-pin connectors. To avoid splicing, you'd need two "Y" type parallel "JST" cables. This would allow you to seemlessly plug back in the existing speakers and leave you with two reds and two blacks (1 pair for the tweeter; 1 pair for the woofer). Question is whether you can simply combine the reds and blacks and attach to a 3.5mm mono plug? Or use a stereo plug w/ left channel as woofer, right channel as tweeter, and common ground? I'm not an electronics guy... TM -- how did you do it?

William Hanley - Reply

I spliced both black and red wires from tweeter and woofer output. First of all, the JST y cables I purchased from Amazon do not fit the board. Second, when I combined the red red and black black and then to a stereo 3.5mm plug the sound would cut out constantly. When I unplugged either the woofer or tweeter plug it gave me either high or low frequency but did NOT cut out. I know nothing about electronics but am thinking I need a signal summing device. Any other thoughts? Anyone tap into the board before the signal is split to high and low?

jasonpirozzolo - Reply

Did you take it any further? I went ahead and wired it up and it all worked well for nearly 10 minutes and then it had enough and just stopped. I was disappointed, frustrated, and had spent enough time pretending like I knew what I was doing so I haven't been back to the project to see if I even have a functioning unit to continue working on.

I'm thinking I fried the TPA3110D2 amplifier chip.

I'm also wondering if adding headphones is feasible at all. Is there a crossover circuit onboard or is Amazon creating a stereo audio stream that is already frequency divided (L=woofer, R=tweeter)? If so, capturing the inputs to the TPA3110D2 may still require blending the signals with diodes or something to prevent a burnout.

If I did fry it, at least the thing is heavy and kinda doorstop-shaped...

TJVT -

Whats the thing located beneath your thumb?

frank - Reply

Looks like it may be an NFC chip? Good question.... iFixit, enlighten us please!

Blake Leeper -

that appears to be an antenna of sorts. something with a fairly short wavelength. there are two of them, one on each side. but since there is no connections to the main circuit board. Some sort of NFC does seem to be a correct estimate.

James -

Andrew Powell's answer is our best guess. We found an identical-looking sticker in the Amazon Fire TV. We're betting that these are passive RFID tags used for inventory/packing handling.

Andrew Optimus Goldberg -

It's been seen in other Amazon devices. Some type of wireless tag to track the device through manufacturing or link it to your account when shipped.

Andrew Powell - Reply

It doesn't seem to be connected to the other boards in any way.

I'm tempted to suggest an RF tag used at the factory during manufacturing processes, but why two?

Chuck - Reply

Congratulations on a great teardown. Nice pictures.

Chuck - Reply

Could be an anti-shoplifting tag for retail environments... or Amazon distribution centers where employees are required to pass through screening before leaving at the end of their shifts.

Chuck - Reply

Does anyone think the ti processor is hackable? i.e. programmable? Ti seems to have tools for it, that is unless amazon has protected it in some way.

stefan prosky - Reply

I'd love to find a way to access/replace the microphone sources and audio out. It would be great to hack my old Nutone home intercom system and use the console in each room as a microphone and speaker. For example, anyone in any room could say "Alexa, what is the weather today?" and get the answer. Might be a great use for the 1970s technology that someone (crazily) installed in my 1990s house. Anyone with relevant expertise, please give me some good ideas. I just added my name to the Echo wait list.

Mark Corley - Reply

I have a whole-house audio system by HTD and I want to do this exact thing. I am thinking of just splicing the speaker wire, putting in a toggle switch and a headphone jack. I was hoping someone else (braver than I) would confirm this approach... but I might just rip it apart and try myself. My HTD system actually has stereo input jacks in each room (built into the panels) and all I'd need to do is plug the output from alexa into one of the rooms, and then use the intercom to talk back to that room... presto, now Echo would be reachable from all rooms.

Dave Meeker -

There is a microphone array implemented that is tied to the geometry of the microphones. You won't be able to wire in microphones and loudspeakers and still expect the microphone array beamforming, as well as any acoustic echo cancellation, to work properly.

W

orresearch -

This is exactly what I'm going to do!

Keith Faber -

Brilliant write up, thanks!!

How do I access the microphone beamforming array output? I'd like to use the source separation in some code I'm writing. Any advice appreciated!

Thanks, S

stephen -

Can anyone identify what the opto-sensor is used for? It is on the top side of the LED/Microphone board and can be seen in the second photo in the gap of the gold on the circumference.

Paul Franzosa - Reply

Yeah, it senses the ambient light level to allow auto-dimming of the LEDs when it's dark.

Patrick Maupin -

What type of encoder technology is implemented? Magnetic? Optical?

Francis Wu - Reply

Question for AMAZON - You use the Texas Instruments TLV320DAC3203 Ultra Low Power Stereo Audio Codec. Are you feeding stereo in and only using single speaker mono out? When is Amazon enabling full stereo ouyput to tap into the output (remember we still have the remote for commands and we all want an external speaker or optical output? This is huge!!!

PW - Reply

Does anyone know the producer of the microphones

Sophus Rosendahl - Reply

Knowles Electronics. Maybe someone would tell you it's Sisonic, but now Sisonic belongs to Knowles.

Feng Zhou -

Anyone know what LEDs they are using in the light ring? Thanks.

jkken - Reply