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|iPad 2 CDMA||
|iPad 2 GSM||
|iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415||
|iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560||
May 6, 2015
Large fissure on from the upper left corner to the lower left corner, and broken glass.
iOpener kit gives you what you need to open up a ipad for presumably most repairs.
The demonstration video works well because the glass itself is intact. If like mine it is in poor condition be prepared to spend a long time scraping off shards.
It's not that the glass is easy to shatter, it's the fact the glue is so strong if you don't loosen it up enough it's only going to get worse.
I only got cut once!
During the prying off stages i managed to severe both the wifi antenna as well as the right GPS module. The guide here states to be careful around the wifi antenna. It doesn't communicate why though...
The cable conecting both the wifi and the right GPS are glued onto the front panel. In these two areas you want to approach from the edge of the iPad and push inwards pressing up against the inside of the glass. Sliding just outright cuts the cables.
April 21, 2014
Cracked front panel.
Well done but much easier is the hot air blower for open the panel dealings.
Use hot air blower!
February 3, 2014
A friend offered me his iPad that had a badly broken screen for free. He knows that I'm pretty handy with woodworking, so he thought I might give a try with electronics. He had covered it with packing tape, and it was still functional, but it would make some errors recognizing touches, swipes, taps, and such. With a free iPad in my hands I figured it was worth investing a little money into it just to have the experience, even if I ended up ruining it.
I have an iPad supplied by my employer, and this was going to be for my wife and kids.
I didn't want to buy a new front panel if I ended up destroying the iPad in the dis-assembly process. So I actually removed the broken glass before ordering the new parts. The fact that I am writing this now is proof that the removal went okay (it was a little harder than I expected) and while I had no way to be sure if it was still working, I had not done much visible damage.
The only thing I damaged was the wi-fi/bluetooth antenna, but it looked like it was only damage to the part that holds it in place--I thought it would not impair the function. So I ordered the front panel, and waited for it to arrive. It came faster than expected! (Well played, iFixit. Well played.)
In case you are seeing that I ordered the home button assembly--the button bent a little when I peeled it off the old glass, and probably would have been okay after a touch of flattening. But I tought it might be weakened and, therefore, fail sooner rather than later. I decided to order a new home button assembly just for good measure, because I don't want to have to open up this iPad again.)
When the front panel and home button arrived the assembly on that part was really easy. When I got it back in place enough to test, it turns out that the wi-fi antenna needed some help. It was working, but clearly getting a weak signal (only 1 bar, standing 3 feet away from my Time Machine tells me there was a problem.) So I ordered a new wifi antenna, and my wife and the kids got frustrated that they were going to have to wait for another delivery. But it also came faster then expected! (Bravo, iFixit.)
Putting the wifi antenna in required removing more internal parts, which was a little nerve-wracking, but I got it in, and went to test - Success!!!
Wear eye protection when removing broken glass. Covering the whole glass front with tape would probably be a good idea. I had tape on part, but not all, of the screen--it made a noticeable difference.
Take seriously the warnings about the location of the wifi antenna.
The tools that come withe the front panel assembly kit seem like they would have really helped the removal process. I would have been better off ordering the part in advance.
January 30, 2014
My dad dropped his iPad while he was on a metro and cracked the screen into a small, intense spiderweb right where the guide said to try to gain access with a larger crack extending from the web to the bottom left of the display.
Overall, not as cleanly and the guide showed because of the location of the crack. The initial entry point wound up creating more cracks which continued to happen as I went around the front panel, but eventually I was able to get all the now-small pieces off and removed the screen.
I wasn't able to use the plastic tools in the repair kit to fit between the bezel and the panel or, one I had removed a chunk of the spider web, under the panel and the body beneath. A small metal screwdriver sharpened on a whetstone for about 15 second gave a nice small chisel that was perfectly willing to get under the panel (glass) and lift up so I could insert the guitar picks.
Through a combination of not being sure where exactly the wifi antenna was (10%) and being impatient and not paying full attention (90%) I ripped the antenna, but I was able to order a new one and have it arrive much much sooner than I thought I would. Installing this was part was ridiculously easy since the glass panel was already off and everything under that is just philips head screws.
Putting the adhesives on the new front panel was rather difficult because the only guide I had for the placement of the strips was the pictures, but I managed to more or less get it save for a spot at the top where it'll sort of click in and out if you press on it. I'm not sure why the adhesives need to be put on the clean new front panel that doesn't have any guides on it. If you could put the adhesives on the inside of the iPad where you can apply it directly to the structures that you want the front panel to adhere to, it would be a whole lot easier.
I didn't time how long it took me to get the front panel off because I got frustrated and took a couple of breaks, but reassembling took about 4 hours because I put it all together without any of the adhesives to make sure everything worked before it got sealed up, then stripped it again down to the wifi antenna (which has its own adhesives front and back) to do it for real.
DO A TEST FIT before you seal it all up in case something isn't working. I didn't have any problems and it took me quite a bit longer because I did the test fit, but if something had been wrong and I'd sealed it up, I would be quite irritated with myself. Also, the ribbon connoting the new front panel to the logic board is flat and it needs to be bent in order for it to fit as close to flush as possible, so if you seal it up without doing this, you're gonna have a bad time.
WEAR GLOVES WHEN HANDLING THE NEW FRONT PANEL. I didn't and tried my best to clean off my finger smudges on the inside/back of the new panel but there are three small ones that I missed. You have to look closely to see them, but they're still there and that annoys me.
BE AWARE OF WHERE THE WIFI ANTENNA IS. It's stuck to the front panel with an adhesive and it's about as thin as a piece of tin foil and just as easily ripped.
and of course, IF THE GLASS IS CRACKED, DO THE SURGERY SOMEWHERE YOU CAN VACUUM UP ALL THE SMALL PIECES OF GLASS THAT WILL FLY OFF WITHOUT PERMISSION. This will happen and it will not please you. Also beware small glass splinters. They hurt but can be pulled without problem with some tweezers or a well placed thumb and pointer finger. Use tape to pick up the small bits of glass that fall down inside the iPad.
January 9, 2014
My sister ran over her iPad with her car, I was amazed it wasn't completely obliterated. The front screen was shattered and the lower left and upper left sections of the aluminum back was slightly bent. Even after all that the iPad still worked in this condition.
This took a lot longer than I thought it would. The glass kept shattering into even smaller bits. Even taping the screen with clear packing tape didn't help much, except it did help with glass fragments flying all over the place. I spent around 6 hours just getting the broken panel off. Once I got the panel clear, the rest was fairly easy. It works like new.
Just take your time, there are some areas that you need to make sure you don't hit. Specially the volume rocker and wifi antenna areas. Make sure to get some compressed air, to get dust and glass particles off the lcd before it is installed. Other than that, make sure to follow the directions. They helped a lot.
January 8, 2014
Do not ever ask your 10 year old to pease get you I-pad out of the car for you. I got it but the left bottom quarter was shattered. And yes, he did confess.
It was as hard job, as described but using the combination of You tube and your instruction manual I was able to complete successfully. I-pad is completely functional with a new screen.
Definitely needed the repair kit to replace screen, the plastic tools a bit cheap would not be able to use again for future repairs
January 8, 2014
A 'friend' tried to remove a broken headphone piece from the iPad headphone jack by drilling into their iPad to remove the broken piece. When they finally removed the broken piece they only had sound out of one side of the headphones (a new set). So I purchased a new headphone jack and within 1 hour had the new part installed and all was well - at least I thought all was well. As I started to clean up the inside of the iPad before enclosing it I noticed they had drilled too far and severed some circuit board connections on the front panel causing the touch surface to act erratically. Hence a front panel replacement was necessary.
Thanks to iFixit and their guides I was able to replace the front panel without any issues.
1. Follow the replacement guide steps and be patient!
2. When using the iOpener I found it helpful to reheat it and let it soften the glue 2 to 3 times.
3. The initial opening of the iPad on the upper right side is challenging. As said in other repair stories use a razor blade - I found it more useful to use the tip of an angled fixed razor blade such as those in a heavy duty box cutter (not the cheap flimsy ones).
4. The more 'guitar picks' you can use the better - just leave them in place until the panel is removed.
5. When reinstalling the front camera bracket you may have to use some double sided tape as the included iFixit adhesive strips do not include any for this part when installing on a new front panel. Nor does the guide include any pictures for installing the camera bracket on a new panel.
6. When removing the brown backing off the adhesive strips make sure the adhesive is securely pressed down and then use a box cutter razor blade tip to start the process.
7. When reinstalling the front panel you will have to work with the digitizer ribbon cable by molding it into iPad cavity. There is no part of the guide which refers to this process. This would be a great place for iFixit to append the guide !!!
November 12, 2013
Well a few years ago my son dropped our iPad and broke the screen, My Brother in law though he could fix it and did a ok job but used a cheap screen. That screen broke and the bottom edge a year or so ago and I have just dealt with it. So, when a coworkers iPhone dock connector started acting up I thought I would get a screen at the same time
Easy on the iPhone but a little hard on the iPad. I think I might have messed up the WiFi antenna but have not really tested the new screen (because it seems the thing has to be down for you to do that and that puts me in a catch 22)
Make sure you read through the guides BEFORE you start that might have stopped me from nicking the WiFi antenna (though how the glue was done by the formor repair it might not have mattered)
December 28, 2012
My wife dropped her (beloved) iPad2 a week before Christmas - which was unfortunate to say the least. On the bright side, it gave me the opportunity to tear open an iPad (and there is nothing an engineer loves more than to tear things apart), so I ordered a replacement screen & tool kit from iFixit.
The repair was straightforward, but some of the advice in the iFixit tutorial didn't apply well to this repair because the glass was already shattered. For example, the plastic tool for releasing the glue had trouble with broken bits of glass; I found that a sharp knife worked better in those situations. The iOpener was worth it for the heating pad alone, because that definitely helped (especially in the beginning & in places where the glass wasn't shattered).
I blogged about it http://readabilitycounts.tumblr.com/post...
And there's a time lapse video up on YouTube: http://youtu.be/RBACxpiXwCA
(1) WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. If the screen is already broken, glass gets *everywhere*.
(2) Pay close attention when you first start trying to separate the screen from the body; the goal is to separate the glass from the small plastic strip between the glass and the aluminum frame, *not* to separate the glass & plastic from the aluminum frame.
(3) Affix the adhesive strips to the screen before you attach the digitizer to the body. It is hard to get it into position if you wait until the end.
(4) If the adhesive strips don't hold well enough (I believe the impact bent the aluminum body in my case), Loctite Stik'n'Seal Extreme Conditions adhesive worked well for additional adhesion.
November 28, 2012
The touch screen was broke.
Replacement touch screen was high quality. Tools were good quality with the plastic opening tools being the exception. The edges were so dull they were unusable. The rest of the iOpener package was helpful. The guides were also pretty helpful.
I was hestitant to buy the heating pad and guitar picks but both made a difficult repair doable. Go through the guides thoroughly before attempting the repair. Be cautious of damaging the plastic frame between the screen and the case. Damaging it can make placing the new screen more challenging.