Heavy-Duty Spudger

$4.95

Product code: IF145-013-1

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Heavy-Duty Spudger

$4.95

Product code: IF145-013-1

Product Overview

Poke and prod like you mean it.

  • Thicker variant of the official "black stick" that Apple Certified Technicians use to repair Apple computers.
  • 6" long antistatic nylon probe with one flat end and one pointed end.
  • Flat end can be used to disconnect connectors, remove thermal paste from heat sinks, pry off components, or aid in soldering.
  • Pointed tip is handy for unlocking ZIF connectors and poking your siblings.

Product Details

  $4.95

 
 

Condition:

New

Warranty:

One year warranty

50+ Available

Add to Cart
 

Stories

My Problem

Boot to gray screen Apple troubleshooting list followed down to replacement of PRAM Battery after multiple other solutions.

My Fix

Very smooth after finding or buying missing tools from local hardware and iFixit.

My Advice

iFixit directions (https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+...) are very accurate but two suggestions:

1) the front iMac glass requires suction or other upward force to remove it, but the glass itself is very light. Be careful not to pull it off and lose control of it.

2) After removing 12 Torq screws, I didn't know how big the front bezel would be. I thought it might be just the thin rim of aluminum where the screws were removed. In fact, it's the whole front aluminum case down past the Apple logo, which is why the access door to the RAM had to come off first. A prior commentor suggested something about removing the bezel/front case instead of disconnecting the microphone cord. This is what I did and it is a great idea to avoid damaging the cord trying to take it apart.

My Problem

I was fixing it for a student that wanted his/her IPad fix.

My Fix

The repair went ok, it took around Three hours to repair. I really have to take time to heat the glass to remove. So I don't break the glass, if you do break the grass. you just might scratch the surface of the LCD screen.

My Advice

you will need the definitely tools to remove the glass. Plastic Opening Tools, which you will need a lot of them. one isn't just enough, get extra just in case. Heavy duty Spudger works great, when removing connectors. didn't really need the metal spudger set, but I got it anyway. maybe use it on something else. you will definitely need a precision tweezers set, because the screws are so small. you will need plastic cards and opening picks. don't forget to get a screw driver small enough for those small screws, there are tiny. oh yeah, be careful lifting the screen. the screen is in perfect condition when it arrive. I will buy I fix again, if you are ordering from Canada, you will pay duty fee. my cost around 49.99 duty fee, plus the shipping I have to pay about 30.00 bucks. plus I didn't really need a suction cup. you can use a heat gun, or that iopener thing. I have use a heat gun which was dewalt.

My Problem

My PSU in my 2006 iMac g5 burnt out 3 years ago while I was plugging it in. There was a tiny spark and the thing wouldn't turn on. It was too old to get it repaired by Apple.

My Fix

It took about an hour to get disassembled. Once I did that, I promptly realized there was manufacturer error and had to call and get a new PSU sent out. They were very helpful on the phone and the service way exceptional. Shipping took like 2 seconds. Not literally but it was really fast.

While I was disassembling I was at the part where you disconnect the SATA cable. Apparently it's really easy to rip right off the board and then you are out of luck forever since it has to be soldered back on meticulously. The internet and my local Mac repair shop said it's not worth it to even try to fix.

Putting the PSU in was easy and putting it back together took probably 30 minutes. It powered right up beautifully. Of course it can't read the hard drive so after that it just blinks a flashing folder icon with a question mark in it.

Only after all that did I see there was a guide to replace the PSU without taking the whole thing apart. HAHA OOPS.

Conclusion, I fixed the PSU successfully. The guide was really good, the part worked great and then I broke my iMac forever in a different way. The End.

My Advice

Don't break your iMac while you're fixing it.

Try to do the shortcut of replacing the PSU first.

If you feel you must take the whole thing apart, be VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY careful with the SATA cable disconnection. It was EXTREMELY hard for me to unplug even with a spludger and instructions so I thought maybe I'd give it a little tug since the other cables seemed to need a little force to disconnect. That's where I went wrong and it just ripped away from the board completely.

Also, if you DO break your SATA cable off you can run your iMac off an external drive.

My Problem

The phone when connected to the charger, gave a error message, use the correct charger, then quit charging, i then conected the phone to the computer, still no charge, and I also noticed that it wouldn't conect to the computer! If I send it for repair, i will lose everything.

My Fix

With Ifixet and YouTube videos, the disassembly went well, but I'm a clutz, to hold a heat gun and prying is not going to work, so I came up with a new idea, with ebay, i found parts to make a cheaper, safer heat source, and it worked like a champion. I got a dead GS5 from eBay and used it to practice with, and it is working now.I want to show my setup but I cannot get my photos here.

My Advice

Go slow, watch the video many times, take notes, especially when sliding the adhesive cutter, the adhesive is only 2 mm wide, and at the bottom be very careful or you could cut the led lights, open from the top and unstick the led pads.

My Problem

I repair my own and friends' and clients' computers, I needed to stock up on tools and supplies.

My Fix

To quote Al Green's song: 'How can you mend a broken heart?" These tools didn't do it...

My Advice

Yea. Don't ask a wiseacre like me for advice, I'll tell you to wear clean underwear in case you get in an accident.

My Problem

These purchases were just additional pieces to my toolbox, but I do love the heavy-duty spudger, it's very durable.

My Fix

Overall it went great, but I couldn't finish the 3G until the suction cup came in, so this is just part #1 of the repair

My Advice

Nothing, great guides and tools. I've made consecutive purchases for these reasons alone.

My Problem

My 7-8 years old PS3 60GB one of the first gen models, decided to go YLOD on me out of clear blue one day. It wasn't even a long playing session or anything, it was not turned on for a couple of days, then i turned it on didn't even launch a game, i fooled around with videos and photos for 30 mins all of a sudden, it turned itself out with beeps, later which i found was the Yellow Light of Death. I didn't even see it as a yellow light. After a couple of hours of internet crawling, i came up with a plan.

My Fix

Living in Turkey, i did not want to take it to some repair shop here. I would feel like having a kidney transplant in a basement by a rouge surgeon. Again living in Turkey, you would also need luck to find very good quality thermal paste, cleaning fluids like isop. alcohol let alone thermal cleaning solutions, i decided to get the YLOD fix kit from iFixit, even though mine wouldn't have a heatgun since they couldn't it ship it outside US.

I got a much better heat gun elsewhere, watching many videos about BGA reballing and similar stuff, i applied the YLOD guide on iFixit.

To my surprise i must admit, it worked!! I'll back my HDD up while i have the chance now and then see how long it will last.

My Advice

I used an infrared thermometer to monitor mainboard heat and chip heat all the time. Since i had a different heat gun, i had to choose an operating temperature. I used 120 to warm up for 2-3 minutes, then 200 from distance to get the board to 50-60 degrees celsius. Then 300 for heating chip directly above it for 25 seconds.

On Step 16 of the guide, the AC inlet, my PS3 did have the ground cable running under the power supply mounting extension. It runs through a gap between the power supply screw extension and the mainboard chassis, which is smaller then the ground cable strap, so you can't take it out in this step. You have to either take out the power supply first, or, loosen the power supply rear screws and flex it up a little bit to pull the cord from under.

I guess cleaning of chip surfaces which had old thermal pads on and their corresponding spots on the MB chassis, is as much important as cleaning the CPU/GPU chips. Guide mentions nothing about those.

The blue-ray ribbon cable has a 90 bend on it, and it is not symmetrical. Since these are delicate connectors, trial and error methods are not very appreciated here, so at step 29-motherboard be sure which end of the cable goes in to MB for a better reassembly. Better yet, remove the ribbon cable from the MB and leave the other end on the blueray drive at the step 9.

My Problem

So I spilled sangria across my laptop keyboard. What a waste of sangria! At the same time, it turned out a sugary, sticky, wine concoction was really bad for my keyboard and trackpad. Once dried, a friend said I had a very 'crunchy' keyboard and the trackpad wouldn't click.

My Fix

Repair went well but took a bit of time. I opened the laptop, removed all of the internals and cleaned everything. Fortunately due to the backlight sealing the keyboard, minimal sangria got into the electronics areas. I removed the batteries with the help of some Undu (adhesive remover) and removed the trackpad and cleaned around it.

Since the keyboard was riveted to the chassis and the keys worked (they would just stick) I decided to buy a new keyboard, and swap the keycaps and plastic key levers. So I popped off all of the keys using a small eyeglass screwdriver and cleaned out any residue. I then popped off the keys from the spare keyboard and attached them to my laptop.

Reassembled everything and it's all good.

My Advice

1. There's many small screws of varying size. Be sure to note which goes where. The magnetic project map made that a snap.

2. Be sure to account for all ribbon cables. Some are small and it's easy to re-assemble the electronics and then realize one of the cables is under the main board requiring you to disassemble.

3. Undu made battery removal straightforward. Just apply around the batteries, tilt to let it run behind them, then apply spudger as a lever. Apply more Undu as batteries start to lift.

For the keycaps, the only keys that are a little tricky are the larger ones that have metal frames behind them (space, tab, etc). Some videos suggest attaching the metal frame and then attaching the key to the keyboard. I found placing the metal frame on the keyboard and then pressing the keycap down onto it (and the plastic lever) was easier.

My Problem

Hard drive failed previously. It's also slow on this year MacBook Pro even with 8 gigabytes memory. I copied the system using super duper to the solid-state drive. This took several hours.

My Fix

The online guide was perfect. Never having done this before I was a bit apprehensive as I am also 81 years old. As I removed each screw, I placed it in a small glass. For the three large ones I put A black marker next to each hole. I did not need to remove the battery. Swapping the drive was very easy. The entire process of swapping the drive was about one hour as I was super cautious.

Having been burned previously by static electricity, I dampened the rug below the table I was working on and I used the wrist strap for grounding.

My Advice

No further enlightenment needed. Thanks, the online manual was perfect.

My Problem

Upgrade WiFi to 802.11AC

My Fix

replace WiFi board BCM94331CSAX with BCM94360CSAX

My Advice

I did it without pull out battery connector. :)

 

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