iPad mini 1/2 Front Glass/Digitizer Touch Panel Full Assembly

$69.95

Product code: IF122-001
Apple Part #: 820-3291-A, 821-3291

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iPad mini 1/2 Front Glass/Digitizer Touch Panel Full Assembly

$69.95

Product code: IF122-001
Apple Part #: 820-3291-A, 821-3291

Product Overview

Fix that broken front panel!

  • PLEASE NOTE: This repair is very difficult!
  • This assembly includes the blank home button, adhesive, and digitizer cable already attached to the panel.
  • You do not need to transfer any components from your existing front panel which makes this repair a little easier.

Kit contents:

Compatibility

Identify your iPad

  • All iPad mini
  • All iPad mini 2

Product Details

$74.95 Fix Kit / Black

 
 

Condition:

New

Notes:

This product cannot be shipped to Mexico. Este producto no puede enviarse a México.

$74.95 Fix Kit / White

 
 

Condition:

New

Notes:

This product cannot be shipped to Mexico. Este producto no puede enviarse a México.

$69.95 Part Only / Black

 
 

Condition:

New

$69.95 Part Only / White

 
 

Condition:

New

$49.95 A-Stock / Part Only / Black

 
 
 

Condition:

Used, fully tested

Notes:

This used part is in excellent condition.

$49.95 A-Stock / Part Only / White

 
 
 

Condition:

Used, fully tested

Notes:

This used part is in excellent condition.

$34.95 B-Stock / Part Only / Black

 
 
 

Condition:

Used, fully tested

Notes:

This used part will have minor cosmetic wear.

$34.95 B-Stock / Part Only / White

 
 
 

Condition:

Used, fully tested

Notes:

This used part will have minor cosmetic wear.

 

Replacement Guides

iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi

Difficulty: Difficult

iPad Mini CDMA

Difficulty: Difficult

iPad Mini GSM

Difficulty: Difficult

iPad Mini Wi-Fi

Difficulty: Difficult

 

Compatibility

iPad Mini
16 GB Wi-Fi
32 GB Wi-Fi
64 GB Wi-Fi
iPad Mini 2
128 GB Wi-Fi
128 GB Wi-Fi/Cellular
16 GB Wi-Fi
16 GB Wi-Fi/Cellular
32 GB Wi-Fi
32 GB Wi-Fi/Cellular
64 GB Wi-Fi
64 GB Wi-Fi/Cellular
iPad Mini CDMA
16 GB LTE/CDMA
32 GB LTE/CDMA
64 GB LTE/CDMA
iPad Mini GSM
16 GB LTE/GSM
32 GB LTE/GSM
64 GB LTE/GSM
 

Stories

Chris Grayden's Story Photo #785030
Chris Grayden's Story Photo #785027

My Problem

My 3 yr old son dropped my ipad mini on the edge of wooden floor :-(

My Fix

Started off by following the ifixit repair guide but also followed a video to complete the repair. After about an hour of heating the ipad to loosen the adhesive i just ripped the whole screen off and peeled off the chips that were left over. the most difficult part and what took me so long was removing all the broken glass but when that was done it was smooth sailing.

My Advice

I would definitely recommend some type of adhesive remover after getting the front screen off because there is alot of residue leftover.

William's Story Photo #786252

My Problem

The original front panel was shattered after the iPad was dropped and landed on the corner.

My Fix

The repair went great. The guide, video, and tools provide gave me everything I needed and needed to know.

My Advice

Cover the broken glass with large clear tape before trying to remove it so that the shards of glassstay together.

During reassembly if there is dust of smugges on the LCD the wrap two of your fingers in scotch tape and gently dab it off with the tape. Insure that there are also no smugges on the inside of the replacement panel by waiting till the last second to remove the protective plastic cover.

My Problem

cracked glass

My Fix

The repair went well, 100% success. I used a hair dryer in addition to ifixit thing and carefully removed the glass and shards. The kit was essential especially the tweezers and splunger. The screws can be different sizes so a magnetic pad or careful keeping track is important. My main issue was cleaning the LCD which gets bits if adhesive/foam on it from removing it and a fingerprint from accidental touch- used canned air to blow off bits but then wiped with a computer screen wipe which was a bad idea as it left residue -- 70% isopropyl alcohol and a clean microfiber cloth worked well after that. took about 2 1/2 hours excluding the trip to CVS for the alcohol. Cleaned out all adhesive from metal surface with a alcohol wipe and flat end of splunger - do this prior to replacing LCD and digitizer screens, this takes some time.

My Advice

get a magnetic screw board to keep careful track of screws and all foam/tape bits that you have to remove and replace when re-assembling. watch all youtube videos (even the obviously bad ones) . Avoid having to wipe down the LCD if at all possible.

My Problem

Customer had a broken iPad mini digitizer that was shattered badly.

My Fix

The repair was rocky at the start because of all of the shattered glass, it took a long time and a heat gun (iOpener was useless in this case) to get all of the shards and adhesive off of the frame.

It also took a can of compressed air to ensure the glass shards didn't stay on or scratch the LCD screen.

After I was able to get the old screen off, and because of IFIXIT's perfect replacement part (including EVERYTHING needed for the repair), it was smooth sailing.

A little bit of smooth filing was required on the frame of the iPad in order for the new screen to sit in flush (damage where the original screen broke indented the frame, jarring it into the space normally occupied by the digitizer.)

My Advice

Have a heat gun nearby incase there are lots of shards leftover on the frame (this will save your iOpener from punctures.)

Keep a file handy and be sure to file any high points or otherwise in-the-way spots of the frame otherwise you might break the brand new digitizer that you just put in when pushing it into place in the frame, as the high point or pushed-in spot of the frame might be in the space the digitizer is supposed to be in on a normal (unbroken) iPad mini.

The fix kit is extremely useful with all of those picks, use them!

My Problem

Broken glass

My Fix

Everything went well except for the step where the LCD panel is removed. There is very strong adhesive tape across the bottom that must be removed before the LCD panel can be moved. The guide said to lift the LCD panel and ease off the tape. This was a mistake because the LCD panel snapped with only the slightest lifting. I should have pealed the tape off before lifting the LCD. This turned a $70 job into a $170 job. With tax and shipping it ended up costing as much as if I had just taken it to Apple!

My Advice

The advice is to be EXTREMELY careful when lifting the LCD. It is VERY thin and breaks VERY easily. The tape should be removed while the LCD is laying flat and then the LCD can be lifted and laid over on top of the glass panel.

My Problem

This was for a customer. It was a A1432 mini iPad. I was to change out the cracked digitizer.

My Fix

I patiently started breaking down and removing the glass. I was following the tutorial literally and not having too much of a problem. Patience is called for. I have plenty of that. When I got to the insulating foam that keeps the the wire around the lcd protected, I found that I could not get any kind of foam gasket to replace the one I had to carefully scrap off. Without the foam problems can arise later with "ghosting".

I called iFixit and they could not refer me to a manufacturing company that made those gaskets nor did they have that part to sell me. I asked them if I could reassemble the ipad without the foam. They told me that problems could arise later if the foam was not in place. I checked with several companies online that say they fix cracked digitizers, but in various support groups they were talking about "ghosting" problems a lot. Maybe the ipad would work well for awhile and then problems would arise later. The foam sits directly on the wire and does not have a base of its own. The foam's function is to be an electrostatic buffer between the digitizer and the lcd. That is what keeps the "ghosting" from happening.

I ended up buying a new mini ipad for my customer. I handle my business with quality service and want to maintain my integrity with my customers. I will stick to cell phone repair. This was a learning experience.

My Advice

There is a need for someone to make the foam gasket for that part of the repair.

My Problem

I dropped my iPad Mini 2 and the glass shattered. I heard about iFixIt as an amazing DIY repair site from many YouTuber channels and I didn't want to pay someone to fix it. So I decided to give them a try.

My Fix

The repair almost went 1-2-3 easy. The guide is very well detailed. I didn't feel lost at any given any given moment. The first replacement has a Home button that didn't respond. Contacted Support, they were quick, polite, and set up for a replacement within minutes. The second repair went easy as well.

My Advice

While testing the replacement, I noticed sometimes, the screen to incidentally look like it is being pressed. I suspected it something was making contact from underneath, so I quickly I tried to redo the installation and made sure everything was tight and nothing is obstructing the digitizer. I then hopped ont he knowledge boards and found this:

New screen acting crazy

I gave it a try, elevated the digitizer slightly with some tape and it worked perfectly. Because the parts are sourced from 3rd party, not Apple, I won't hold this against iFixIt, they provide an amazing service and guides. Without them, I would probably had to pay $200 for Apple to fix it.

Overall, amazing product, service, and experience. Also, bought their Pro Tech Toolkit, very nice mix of microtools.

My Problem

My younger daughter dropped the tablet facing down, breaking the front glass.

My Fix

The repair was just the most painful maintenance I ever made. I'm a convict DIY and didn't want to pay almost half of a new Ipad to have it fixed. So I got the part and thought I could fix it myself. Only the procedure to open the tablet was a nightmare. The IOpener that comes with the kit would probably have to be heated dozens of times. I wish I had watched the maintenance procedure before buying the kit. Result of it was that I believe I ended up breaking the display. Now it is useless and a new one is probably the best alternative.

My Advice

I didn't get any advice. Should probably have done a better research on how to fix it.

My Problem

Screen cracked from a fall

My Fix

Pretty difficult at first. Since the glass was cracked, the suction cup method was quite challenging. Had to use clear packing tape to get it to stick. Then finally after a while got edge to pop. Other thing was it kept splintering and falling apart. So the emir screen took a while including edges that just shattered off. More detail removal once main part of glass came off.

The bigger problem is that with all the focus on the glass,I may have leaned on the display and didn't think to hard. So with reassembly, saw it may have looked cracked. And indeed it was. All went together perfectly with great instructions on the component removal. But now my LCD is all garbled and cracked. Looks great when it's off.

My Advice

Don't lean on the LCD when taking the touch panel apart.

My Problem

Broken digitizer glass.

My Fix

iFixit.com had the parts, the tools, the videos, the guides, and the experts. You could purchase their services or buy the products.

Some sites suggest using a hair dryer to heat the adhesive while iFixit offered the iOpener. Even after the repair I’m not sure how effectively I used the iOpener or how critical it was to the operation. However, I knew how sensitive electronics could be to temperature, static, vibration, ...and kinetic energy from being dropped. So having a device that went easy on the thermal characteristics seemed like a good choice.

I bought the iFixit Digitizer Kit. It came with almost everything I needed to do the job. Almost? Yes. Having watched several videos, I knew it didn’t come with nitrile gloves, micro fiber cloth, glass cleaning solution, air duster in a can, nor exacto blades. I did provide all of those things myself. I varied from iFixit directions because I saw other experts do the job and I had some intuition based on experience that those things would come in handy. They did.

I ordered the kit and it arrived two days later on a Wednesday. I don’t believe the package was dropped on the porch, but the package arrived with some minor dents in the box, a box that contained very thin and fragile glass. Fortunately, I found to my relief that iFixit was either really lucky or really good with their packaging. While the clear plastic tray had a corner chipped out, the digitizer itself was undamaged. All the other items on the invoice were there and undamaged too.

The actual time for the repair came in at 3 hours 40 minutes. Not too bad considering this was my first and I took time to take pictures (for posterity) and review videos for reference throughout the process.

I put everything out on the kitchen table--not a perfect place, but the best I had available. I would have rather had a fancy static-free mat work area. That would have been cost prohibitive for me.

The first challenge was to remove the damaged digitizer.

I removed the iPad from its not-so-protective-against-cement black cover. Planning to use the cover again, I dusted it with the canned air quite thoroughly. The last thing I needed would be to mess up a repair by closing a shard-laden cover on my new glass face.

While I was at it, I air-dusted the iPad itself. Then I proceeded with the iOpener and suction cup combo according to the iFixit guide. Well gee a suction cup doesn’t suck so well on cracked glass. Like others have said, tape doesn’t work so well either. I really don’t know if I needed more time with the iOpener or should have used the dreaded hair dryer. Either way I persevered. I finally got a corner up and things went faster.

Remember those nitrile gloves? I wish I had. My first mistake was to try to remove the glass without nitrile gloves. It only took a couple of times getting stuck (no blood) to make me put them on. Yes, I know they aren’t Kevlar, but when one is dealing with glass fragments the size of pollen, a simple nitrile glove provides more than adequate protection while keeping dexterity reasonable.

After I got the cracked digitizer off-except for the bottom wires--the challenge was to remove the shards that were still stuck with adhesive to the metal frame. I had to be careful not to scratch the LCD and still remove all of it. I used the exacto blades here. Use the right tool for the job. A spudger or plastic tool is not the right tool. The edges were too shattered to even hope that might work. When I finally got the thing off, the edges looked like a mountain landscape in shadow profile.

I scraped off enough so I could safely remove the LCD, and back plate, and connector shield. That finally got me to the point I could take that awful cracked glass off the logic board and get it away from me and my precious iPad. Somewhere in there I remembered to turn the thing off. However, taking the advice of one of the iFixit commenters, I did not disconnect the battery. If I shorted something, it was dead. If I damaged connectors it was dead. My fat fingers were not really designed for almost microscopic connectors and my prescription lenses weren’t going to aide in that process. I thought I was better off doing as few connectors as reasonable.

With the LCD and back plate removed, I was then able to safely concentrate on cleaning up the adhesive with its embedded shards of glass. I cleaned up the work area. A work area engenders a clean finished product. I used the anti-static cleaners and air duster to make sure everything was fairly pristine. That allowed me to begin reassembly. That in turn allowed me to make my second faux pas: I had all three connector shield screws and all 16 screws reinstalled only to realize I didn’t connect the new digitizer. I removed the screws and connected the digitizer. I used a bunched up lint free cloth to lean it against during re assembly. After the second time through the 19 screws, everything looked much better.

Here I want to pause to mention that the plastic tray that came with the iFixit kit came in very handy for separating the different kinds of little bitty screws. It’s not magnetic so the magnetic #00 screwdriver can easily pick them up. With little effort you can get one screw on the driver head for reassembly.

I made sure there were no finger prints, shards, adhesive or anything else that shouldn’t be inside. I reinstalled the LCD (4 screws). I put the magnets back on the frame in the hollows, not on the digitizer. It works better to match up the hollows that way. I prepared the digitizer by remove the plastic protectors on the adhesive. I ‘S’ curved the connector cable on the digitizer to fit in its little pocket using a suggestion from another commenter. I placed the digitizer lightly into place. After all, considering my track record with mistakes on this project along, I might be removing the digitizer again to fix yet another mistake.

I powered up. Wait for it....WOW! It worked! I pressed the digitizer more firmly into place. Honestly, considering how difficult it was to remove the broken digitizer, I don’t know how easy it would have been to get it back up without cracking the screen.

I removed the button on the old part to see how hard it would have been to use a cheaper part. It turns out that removing the button with tweezers wasn’t too difficult--if you like scratched buttons. I'm glad I didn't choose that option.

My Advice

Have nitrile gloves, micro fiber cloth, anti-static glass cleaning solution, air duster in a can, exacto blades (triangle or flat edge--not rounded).