iMac Intel 27" (EMC No. 2309, 2374, 2390 or 2429) Power Supply

$134.95

Product code: IF174-000
Apple Part #: 661-5310, 661-5468, 661-5972

 

iMac Intel 27" (EMC No. 2309, 2374, 2390 or 2429) Power Supply

$134.95

Product code: IF174-000
Apple Part #: 661-5310, 661-5468, 661-5972

Product Overview

Give new life to your iMac!

Compatibility

Identify your Mac

  • All 27" iMacs with EMC No. 2309, 2374, 2390 or 2429 (Late 2009/Mid 2010/Mid 2011)

Product Details

$134.95

 

Condition:

New

$134.95 Used, refurbished

Condition:

Refurbished

 

Install Videos

 

Replacement Guides

iMac Intel 27" EMC 2309 and 2374

Difficulty: Moderate

iMac Intel 27" EMC 2429

Difficulty: Moderate

 

Compatibility

iMac Intel 27"
2.66 GHz (Quad Core i5)
2.7 GHz (Core i5)
2.8 GHz (Quad Core i5)
2.8 GHz (Quad Core i7)
2.93 GHz (Quad Core i7)
3.06 GHz (Core 2 Duo)
3.1 GHz (Core i5)
3.2 GHz (Core i3)
3.33 GHz (Core 2 Duo)
3.4 GHz (Core i7)
3.6 GHz (Core i5)
 

Stories

My Problem

My mid-2011 iMac was making a buzzing sound; quiet if the LCD screen was off (screensaver) but louder and annoying when the machine was active.

I finally lost patience, and a brief search on the web indicated that the PSU would be the culprit.

It's normally left switched on 24/7; I powered it off last week and it wouldn't switch back on, which reinforced the theory that the PSU was on its way out. The machine powered back up after being left for 24 hours, but by that point I'd already ordered the replacement PSU from iFixit, and my mind was made up.

My Fix

I've opened up my iMac once before, to install an SSD alongside the factory HDD, so this wasn't completely terra incognita for me. In the years since installing the SSD I'd lost my suction cups for removing the glass screen cover; I'm happy to report that a $2.50 pair of suction cup hooks from Home Depot (OOK-brand 5lb hooks, if I'm allowed to mention a specific product) did the job well - but take care, of course, because that glass is fragile.

Following iFixit's guide made identification of the cables easy, and removal of the screen was pretty quick.

I took the opportunity to give the inside of the machine a good dusting - gentle use of a compressed air canister whilst using the house vacuum overhead to catch the dust.

Everything went back together quickly and easily, although the screen data cable is fiddly and very delicate.

I am typing this review on the iMac, so - job done!

My Advice

BEFORE:

Do this in a clean, dust-free environment if possible.

Once you remove the glass panel, the LCD screen attracts dust like honey attracts ants!

Have somewhere safe, stable, and out-of-the-way to set the glass panel and the LCD unit while they're removed.

Have a compressed air duster handy (ideally, the invertable sort that doesn't spray out any propellant liquid), to gently blow any dust off the LCD and the inside of the glass panel as you re-assemble.

DURING:

DO NOT TOUCH the face of the LCD panel. Without its protective glass screen, it's soft, very delicate, and fingerprint marks are difficult (even impossible) to remove. It is NOT the same as a typical laptop LCD panel, which incorporates a protective layer.

Take the opportunity to blow any dust out of the inside of the iMac; the two lower fans and the finned heatsinks are particular dust-traps.

When removing the old PSU, and mindful of the iFixit guide's dire warnings about high-voltage capacitors, I wore a stout rubber yard glove; I'm sure it made me look daft (like a green-fingered version of Michael Jackson?), and was possibly an excess of precaution, but I felt less nervous. I suspect that an alternative would be to leave the iMac for a day or two after disconnecting it from the mains supply, to give the caps chance to discharge.

The two small cables for the screen (v-sync and display power) are keyed, but the connectors aren't very stout. It might be worthwhile to use some white-out or a small sticky label to mark the orientation of the connector BEFORE unplugging it, to ease the task of re-assembly. Whilst holding the LCD unit up, and trying to plug the cables in with only one hand, is not the best time to have doubts about which way round the cables go. A head-mounted flashlight (or cellphone flashlight) helps here.

There are several strong magnets mounted to the chassis, along each side of the screen, that retain the glass screen cover. When removing/reinstalling the LCD fixing screws, these magnets want to grab the screws off your screwdriver. As long as you have tolerably small fingers, you can guide the screws into their holes without much difficulty.

Brandon Dusseau's Story Photo #779686
Brandon Dusseau's Story Photo #779688
Brandon Dusseau's Story Photo #779687

My Problem

The power supply was buzzing.

My Fix

The repair was super easy and straightforward. It helped that I had taken apart an iMac before and so I already knew the procedure for removing the LCD.

My Advice

It helps to unscrew the power supply first to make it easier to reach the locking clip underneath for the power distribution cable. if you don't want to buy suction cups, the suction cup that comes with a GPS or other windshield-mounted car accessory works like a charm (but be careful not to stress the glass too much by only using the one cup).

My Problem

My wonderful 2010 27 inch iMac would not power on

My Fix

An easy search on a possible problem led me to I fixit and YouTube videos. All I had to order was the correct power supply for my emc and suction cups and was ready to dig in to it. Just as the YouTube video sowed the repair was easy

My Advice

Recommend ifuxit for your iMac issues it will save you time and money

My Problem

The iMac had been making a gradually louder electric buzzing (like an old fluorescent lamp) noise when the screen came on. After a while, the whole screen would go black and the computer would occasionally crash.

My Fix

The repair took all of half an hour. It was very simple and straightforward. Pop off the screen, remove a few screws, out with the old and in with the new. The computer is now near silent and running flawlessly again.

My Advice

Make sure when placing the glass back over the screen that every speck of dust has been removed, no matter how small you think it is. You may not see it while the screen is off, but it's the most noticeable thing in the world while the screen is on.

My Problem

iMac computer would not start.

My Fix

Repair went exactly as the instructions and video indicated.

My Advice

Glad I tried this instead of taking it to Apple for what I'm certain would have cost at least 3 times more.

My Problem

All of a sudden our frequently used iMac quit turning on. After a bit of trouble shooting, our best diagnosis was that the power supply stopped working. We knew what to do..

My Fix

Received a new power supply from IFIXIT only a few days later. Pulled up a follow along video on youtube produced by the IFIXIT team. She made it look easy and indeed it was pretty easy. Once installed we plugged it in, crossed our fingers and the iMac powered right up!

My Advice

Try to figure out the problem from yourself or co-workers or friends before taking it in somewhere. Most of the time you will save a lot of time and money

My Problem

There's was a buzzing noise behind the screen. After reading a lot I found out it was the PSU

My Fix

Easy to change. Take out the screen.Then unscrew the PSU. Replace. close.turn on.

My Advice

Watch out the flexible cable that goes to the screen... the connector to the motherboard is really delicate (already broke one).

My Problem

thought i had a bad power supply because iMac had a problem turning on

My Fix

the repair went well 1 hour start to finish. wish i would have read a few more forums turned out it is the button after all according to apple my entire housing needs to be replaced in order to fix this. but i read a forum and as stupid as it sounds pick iMac up turn it upside down then touch the power button and it turns on no problem ugggghhh

My Advice

read forums. bottom line although the parts worked and the install went well. i really didn't need a power supply after all and i don't want to take my iMac apart again to send it back if they would take it back in the first place

My Problem

My iMac 27" I7 fully loaded audio production tool suddenly died. It would not power up at all and I could hold the power button down and nothing happened. I tried different outlets and power cables just in case. After a few moments of panic started to look online and do some research. I found out that my iMac was a 2011 model that was known to have power issues and a trickling effect of multiple components failing one after the other. I was really worried at that point, and thought it would have to be replaced. I bought it used, and it did not have apple care. I am an experienced computer technician but have rarely ever had to repair any of my Macs, so this was a little troublesome. I found the Ifixit site and began to read up on the failure. I felt it had to be a power issue since nothing happens when you pressed the power button and I found the parts and instructions for replacing the power supply inside the iMac. I ordered the parts and tools and crossed my fingers.

My Fix

The instructions were spot on and fabulous! I had the old power supply out in about 20 minutes and that included reading and rereading the instructions multiple times to be sure I was doing the correct steps. I compared the power supplies once I got the old one out and was a little concerned because they didn't match correctly other than the shape. Coming from a PC world, not having matching parts can cause imminent doom when you power up. But after putting it all back together again, plugging it in, and then crossing my fingers... I pressed the power button. That wonderful familiar sound of the drives spinning up and apple boot noise sounded like music to my ears. It is alive again and kicking.

My Advice

My advice is.... if your iMac won't power up and you don't have any warranty available to have apple fix it, give this a shot. The videos are simple and straight forward, the instructions on pdf are the same, and the parts just work.

My Problem

We run a small IT company in Anchorage, Alaska and are also a sponsor/presenter/exhibitor of an upcoming conference. Our 27" iMac is to be used as part of our booth for displaying some of our promotional videos, etc. One problem: it wouldn't boot up. Not a bong, beep, or whir.

Although much of our business deals with managing Windows-based networks, we've worked with Mac's before, too. From experience, the best place to start in the teardown of any clean-frame, sealed device is the Internet. I'm so glad I found IFIXIT in my search!

My Fix

Using the IFIXIT guide, in less than 20 minutes we had the display out of this case and could look for the cause of its failure to start. All in all, the iMac looked pretty good inside with all circuit boards showing no sign of problems--except one: the power supply. It showed a "ghosting", almost a light dusting or frosting of a light discoloration on the PCB that faced us. I was pretty sure we nailed it as the problem, given the lack of any sign of life when attempting to power up and that none of the other PCB's showed anything like this discoloration.

When we tore into the iMac, we were 10 days away from the start of the conference, so we looked locally in Anchorage for a power supply. The closest we could get was a quote for considerably higher (almost double) what I'd seen w IFIXit. So we took a chance w IFIXIT to order the part and get it here on time.

Our order went in last Monday and by Wednesday we had the power supply in hand. Another 30 minutes and we had the system put back together and booting up!

I'm sorry I don't have any pictures, yet I'm not sorry about the results. We received this power supply at an excellent price and within 2 days of order--and our ability to use this system at the conference won't be hindered in the least. Thank you, IFIXIT!

My Advice

The one area where I approached this dis-assembly different was the order in which the old power supply was removed (and put back in). Attempting to remove the connector before removing the 4 screws was futile.

I disconnected the AC power clip first, then removed the 4 screws (putting them in 3 different containers w labels), and then was able to unclip and separate the connector from the board.