What you need
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rotate ear cushion 45 degree counter clockwise to release it.
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remove black adhesive pad located on top of the phillips screw shown on image (use scalpel)
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unscrew the screw
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battery side now visible and can be repaired and inspected.
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the USB charger board can be removed with one phillips screw
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note there is a small lightguide attached to USB board. Note how is is located if removing it.
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To remove the glue on the soldered wires, add alcohol to it first. This will make it hard, and easy to remove. In order to check solderings. (often seen issue that hand soldering are faulty)
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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18 Comments
Any idea how to fix the microphone mute switch? Mine has failed, with the microphone always on mute. There is a small bit of static as the microphone is raised or lowered.
The switch for the microphone is connected to MU_SW on the board and is screwed with a philips screw. I unscrewed it and left it like this as the button mutes when the small black button is pressed. It was a mechanical problem that left it muted all the time. Now it works! I lost the functionality to mute when pulling the mic up but I dont mind!
Hope this helps anyone who finds this
Marcel -
Hi Malcolm, I know it is a micro switch . I believe it is on the inside of the earcup - you can inspect it when open. Remember to check with multimeter the wire soldering - it might be the cable to pcb soldering and not the switch. remember Alcohol is usefull to add onto the glue before removal. so you can inspect and measure. good luck
The micro switch works OK but the mechanics of the ring slider for the micro carrier has too much play. I got cutouts for the microphone.
Solution: disassemble the micro switch carrier PCB as described above; the swich know stays out like a triangle. Carefully remove the triangle (it is clamped into the housing with 2 sideways plastic studs) with a forceps (it comes out with a flimsy metal tongue), put it on a plain area and remove the top of the triangle with a cutter knife.
The reassembly is difficile though…
My wire is corrupted. I have a replacement. Am I better off cutting the wire from the middle and solder each of the small wires and shrink wrap or solder the whole wire from where it is connected in ear piece ? Any idea on what strategy to use for soldering if I have the full wire (i got a replacing set from a cheap used headset from ebay and the wire is ok in it)
My wire is corrupted cause wires are loose at the 3.5 connector side. I tried soldering them with new head but they got loose after a week.
No, the cable wires are very thin, you can’t solder them so precise. Remove the whole cable, it is soldered conveniently on the board and it would be very easy to unsolder the old one and solder the new. Just mark down the colors of the wires to know how to solder them back correctly.
Maxim -
My mic arm is broken at the joint area to the sliding ring. Is there a way how to replace it? Is the mic available as spare part? Has anyone tried this before? I am currently not sure how to remove the sliding ring from the headset.
Yes, I replaced my mic as the cable was damaged by too many open/close cycles. Start as described above to remove the speaker and the plastic cover of the board. Then remove the gray plastic ring that holds the mic slider by removing the screws that hold it. They are placed around the board, I used ph00 screw driver. Then carefully press the two plastic fingers that keep it attached and remove it. Then you can slide the mic and it will fall. Unsolder the cable from the board.
Maxim -
How did you get a new mic arm?
Stefan -
is it 4 core cable or 5 core cable?
I had my mic stop working. I took it apart.
For those also running into this. The problem is the rotating mic arm shears the copper wire off slowly over time. I have photos, will try to upload. I’m not sure how to fix this because you need a really small copper wire and solder the connection back together. Might not be worth my effort honestly. Prettty !#^&@@. I’m guessing this is happening to a lot of these.
If your mic is broke, very likely you have the shearing of the mic cable from the rotating mic mechanism. What a piece of crapola.
WAsn’t worth the effort to fix. For a freaking Mic. Threw them away. What garbage.
Thinking about trying to fix that mic crackle as you adjust the boom up and down? Strongly consider cutting your losses. Maxim’s suggestions above do work, but the cable that runs through the boom to the mic is extremely thin (1 mm?), and will be an absolute pain to splice (1 hour, minimum). Anything you do put there will be repeatedly rolled back and forth like in a cable carrier, but in a 1 cm space that will kill your fix just as quick as the original did. Jabra didn’t have to design it like this, but either thought their design was super neat and stopped there, or are actively malicious in making it $@$*!& so you buy another. This will be a tedious repair, and it might be worth your time to just find something not made by Jabra.
Hello ! I would love to change the mic "way". In other words, instead of having it at the front when on my right ear - as delivered - I would love to have on my left ear. At the moment the mic arm can go all his way down when on the right, but not the other way around : he is blocked. I tried to disassembly it following the instructions but I can't find the way to change the direction of the mic :( Any idea ?
Hello, I have one with a cracked mic and another with a torn cable. I am trying to take off the mic of the one with the torn cable and swap it onto the one with the cracked mic. I got as far as Step 4 (I cant remove the board) but is it even possible to remove the mic (and the rotating disc its connected to)?
Any idea how to fix crackling sound in right side when I put noise canceler on ?
