Introduction

The 7th Generation iPod Nano has quite a few components soldered directly to the logic board, this assembly contains: the battery, headphone jack, sleep/power button, volume control button assembly, and Lightning connector. Use this guide to remove or replace the entire unit in your Nano.

Image 1/2: Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave. Image 2/2: For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

hello -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

Image 1/1: Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

Image 1/1: The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Lay the iOpener over the plastic tab to loosen the adhesive. Let the bag sit on the device for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the panel.

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Image 1/3: Insert a spudger under the cover, then pry it up and away from the device. Image 2/3: Remove the rear plastic cover from the iPod. Image 3/3: Be very careful in removing the plastic cover as the bluetooth antenna is adhered to it.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pull the rear plastic cover away from the device until there is enough room to insert a spudger.

  • Insert a spudger under the cover, then pry it up and away from the device.

  • Remove the rear plastic cover from the iPod.

  • Be very careful in removing the plastic cover as the bluetooth antenna is adhered to it.

Too bad there is not a warning for bluetooth antenna damage... This guide led me to tearing my antenna.

trogfield - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the single 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screw from the black plastic spacer.
  • Gently bend the Bluetooth antenna to the right, out of the way of the screws in the bottom of the device.

  • Remove the single 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screw from the black plastic spacer.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a plastic opening tool to remove the black plastic spacer from the Nano.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 2 mm Phillips #000 screws from the bottom of the case.

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Image 1/2: Slide the opening tool along the edge of the front panel to free it from clips and adhesive. Image 2/2: Slide the opening tool along the edge of the front panel to free it from clips and adhesive.
  • Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the white plastic front panel and the rear case.

  • Slide the opening tool along the edge of the front panel to free it from clips and adhesive.

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Image 1/1:
  • Use a spudger to press the midframe screw tab up and out of the rear case.

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Image 1/1: The adhesive under the metal midframe/display assembly is quite strong and the components are fragile, so go slowly and gently. Make sure you do not bend the LCD screen.
  • Use a metal spudger to carefully pry near the Lightning connector and under all parts of the front panel assembly: the front glass/digitizer, the LCD display and the metal midframe.

  • The adhesive under the metal midframe/display assembly is quite strong and the components are fragile, so go slowly and gently. Make sure you do not bend the LCD screen.

This step is extremely difficult to do... How am I supposed to manage to lift the frame with the LCD screen without potentially causing damage to the LCD screen?

Uriel Melchor - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Continue prying along the edges under the front panel assembly, releasing the clips and adhesive along the sides of the device.

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Image 1/2: You only need to open the device enough to gain access to the display cable connectors near the sleep/power button. Image 2/2: '''Do not''' separate the two halves entirely, they are still connected by several cables.
  • Pull the front panel assembly slightly down and partially out of the device.

  • You only need to open the device enough to gain access to the display cable connectors near the sleep/power button.

  • Do not separate the two halves entirely, they are still connected by several cables.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a spudger to release the digitizer cable and display data cable connectors.

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Image 1/1: '''Do not''' try to completely separate the two sections, yet, as they are still attached via a soldered cable.
  • Gently unfold the two halves of the device to access the internal components.

  • Do not try to completely separate the two sections, yet, as they are still attached via a soldered cable.

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Image 1/2: Flip the battery over into the rear case for safekeeping. Image 2/2: Flip the battery over into the rear case for safekeeping.
  • Pull up on the battery pull tab to free the battery from its adhesive.

  • Flip the battery over into the rear case for safekeeping.

Disconnecting the battery from the lcd screen can ruin the battery,

so why do that if you are just replacing the digitizer?

rather just open the six screws and disconnect the digitizer.

Yehuda Tsibushkin - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Completely separate the front panel assembly from the rest of the device.

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Image 1/1: Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the sleep/power button bracket.
  • Flip the battery down over the logic board to gain access to the sleep/power button assembly.

  • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the sleep/power button bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the sleep/power button bracket from the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Slide the plastic opening tool along the underside of the sleep/power button ribbon cable. Image 2/2: Continue freeing the ribbon cable until you can access the volume buttons on the left side of the rear case.
  • Insert a plastic opening tool under the sleep/power button, and gently pry upwards to free it from its adhesive.

  • Slide the plastic opening tool along the underside of the sleep/power button ribbon cable.

  • Continue freeing the ribbon cable until you can access the volume buttons on the left side of the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel back and remove any tape covering the volume control button assembly.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the volume control button assembly to the rear case.

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Image 1/2: '''Do not''' remove the volume control button assembly from the device entirely; it is still connected to the logic board assembly by a soldered cable. Image 2/2: '''Do not''' remove the volume control button assembly from the device entirely; it is still connected to the logic board assembly by a soldered cable.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry the volume control button assembly away from the edge of the case.

  • Do not remove the volume control button assembly from the device entirely; it is still connected to the logic board assembly by a soldered cable.

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Image 1/1: Remove the single 2.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the headphone jack.
  • Flip the battery back into its recess to expose the headphone jack.

  • Remove the single 2.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the headphone jack.

  • Remove the 4 Phillips #000 screws from the lightning connector and logic board.

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Image 1/2: '''Do not''' remove the headphone jack entirely; its ribbon cable is still soldered to the logic board assembly. Image 2/2: '''Do not''' remove the headphone jack entirely; its ribbon cable is still soldered to the logic board assembly.
  • Use a spudger to pry the headphone jack off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case.

  • Do not remove the headphone jack entirely; its ribbon cable is still soldered to the logic board assembly.

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Image 1/3: Once the Lightning connector has been loosened, push gently between it and the case to further free it. Image 2/3: Once the Lightning connector has been loosened, push gently between it and the case to further free it. Image 3/3: Once the Lightning connector has been loosened, push gently between it and the case to further free it.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the logic board away from the edges of the rear case to free the Lightning connector.

  • Once the Lightning connector has been loosened, push gently between it and the case to further free it.

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Image 1/1: If there is any resistance, there may still be adhesive securing the cables or components. Do not attempt to remove the assembly without further gentle spudgering.
  • Gently pull the logic board assembly out of the rear case.

  • If there is any resistance, there may still be adhesive securing the cables or components. Do not attempt to remove the assembly without further gentle spudgering.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Lionheart

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5 Comments

hi is it possible to replace the battery or is it soldered in?

dave - Reply

Will this fix a headphone jack that doesn't work?

Hailey - Reply

Fixing the headphone jack is super hard. I've been working on mine for a few months. And Basically I ordered the part on ebay (headphone jack, the power button is attached) and I pulled it apart, opened the ipod and swapped everything out (pay close attention to where pieces go cause there's no YouTube videos on how to do it yet) but there is a small piece attached to the ribbon cable near the headphone jack (it's square shaped, with looks like little grid thing, not sure the name) and it has to be perfectly lined up and contacts have to be touching for the power button, volume controls, an headphone jack to work. And that's where I'm stuck cause you can't use adhesive or it will block the contact points. So if you can find someone to replace your ipod parts it will be much easier.

Megan McBride -

There are 4 screws that miraculously disappear between steps 24 and 25?

mlin75 - Reply

Good catch! looks like a step mysteriously disappeared, I edited step 24 to include removing the four other logic board screws.

Sam Lionheart -

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