iPod Nano 7th Generation Logic Board Assembly Replacement

Replace the logic board/battery/headphone jack assembly in a 7th Generation iPod Nano.

The 7th Generation iPod Nano has quite a few components soldered directly to the logic board, this assembly contains: the battery, headphone jack, sleep/power button, volume control button assembly, and Lightning connector. Use this guide to remove or replace the entire unit in your Nano.

Edit Step 1 iOpener Heating  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

Edit Step 1 iOpener Heating  ¶ 

  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

Image 1/1: The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Edit Step 4 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Lay the iOpener over the plastic tab to loosen the adhesive. Let the bag sit on the device for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the panel.

Edit Step 4 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

  • Lay the iOpener over the plastic tab to loosen the adhesive. Let the bag sit on the device for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the panel.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Insert a spudger under the cover, then pry it up and away from the device.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pull the rear plastic cover away from the device until there is enough room to insert a spudger.

  • Insert a spudger under the cover, then pry it up and away from the device.

  • Remove the rear plastic cover from the iPod.

  • Be very careful in removing the plastic cover as the bluetooth antenna is adhered to it.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Gently bend the Bluetooth antenna to the right, out of the way of the screws in the bottom of the device.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Gently bend the Bluetooth antenna to the right, out of the way of the screws in the bottom of the device.

  • Remove the single 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screw from the black plastic spacer.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Use a plastic opening tool to remove the black plastic spacer from the Nano.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to remove the black plastic spacer from the Nano.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the two 2 mm Phillips #000 screws from the bottom of the case.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 2 mm Phillips #000 screws from the bottom of the case.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the white plastic front panel and the rear case.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the white plastic front panel and the rear case.

  • Slide the opening tool along the edge of the front panel to free it from clips and adhesive.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Use a spudger to press the midframe screw tab up and out of the rear case.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to press the midframe screw tab up and out of the rear case.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Image 1/1: The adhesive under the metal midframe/display assembly is quite strong and the components are fragile, so go slowly and gently. Make sure you do not bend the LCD screen.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use a metal spudger to carefully pry near the Lightning connector and under all parts of the front panel assembly: the front glass/digitizer, the LCD display and the metal midframe.

  • The adhesive under the metal midframe/display assembly is quite strong and the components are fragile, so go slowly and gently. Make sure you do not bend the LCD screen.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Continue prying along the edges under the front panel assembly, releasing the clips and adhesive along the sides of the device.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Continue prying along the edges under the front panel assembly, releasing the clips and adhesive along the sides of the device.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Pull the front panel assembly slightly down and partially out of the device.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Pull the front panel assembly slightly down and partially out of the device.

  • You only need to open the device enough to gain access to the display cable connectors near the sleep/power button.

  • Do not separate the two halves entirely, they are still connected by several cables.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Use a spudger to release the digitizer cable and display data cable connectors.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to release the digitizer cable and display data cable connectors.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Gently unfold the two halves of the device to access the internal components.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Gently unfold the two halves of the device to access the internal components.

  • Do not try to completely separate the two sections, yet, as they are still attached via a soldered cable.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Pull up on the battery pull tab to free the battery from its adhesive.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Pull up on the battery pull tab to free the battery from its adhesive.

  • Flip the battery over into the rear case for safekeeping.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Completely separate the front panel assembly from the rest of the device.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Completely separate the front panel assembly from the rest of the device.

Edit Step 18 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Flip the battery down over the logic board to gain access to the sleep/power button assembly.

Edit Step 18 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

  • Flip the battery down over the logic board to gain access to the sleep/power button assembly.

  • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the sleep/power button bracket.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Remove the sleep/power button bracket from the rear case.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the sleep/power button bracket from the rear case.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Insert a plastic opening tool under the sleep/power button, and gently pry upwards to free it from its adhesive.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Insert a plastic opening tool under the sleep/power button, and gently pry upwards to free it from its adhesive.

  • Slide the plastic opening tool along the underside of the sleep/power button ribbon cable.

  • Continue freeing the ribbon cable until you can access the volume buttons on the left side of the rear case.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Peel back and remove any tape covering the volume control button assembly.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Peel back and remove any tape covering the volume control button assembly.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the volume control button assembly to the rear case.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the volume control button assembly to the rear case.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry the volume control button assembly away from the edge of the case.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry the volume control button assembly away from the edge of the case.

  • Do not remove the volume control button assembly from the device entirely; it is still connected to the logic board assembly by a soldered cable.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Flip the battery back into its recess to expose the headphone jack.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Flip the battery back into its recess to expose the headphone jack.

  • Remove the single 2.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the headphone jack.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Use a spudger to pry the headphone jack off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to pry the headphone jack off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case.

  • Do not remove the headphone jack entirely; its ribbon cable is still soldered to the logic board assembly.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to push the logic board away from the edges of the rear case to free the Lightning connector.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the logic board away from the edges of the rear case to free the Lightning connector.

  • Once the Lightning connector has been loosened, push gently between it and the case to further free it.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Gently pull the logic board assembly out of the rear case.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Gently pull the logic board assembly out of the rear case.

  • If there is any resistance, there may still be adhesive securing the cables or components. Do not attempt to remove the assembly without further gentle spudgering.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

19 Comments

Add a comment

hi is it possible to replace the battery or is it soldered in?

dave - Reply

Will this fix a headphone jack that doesn't work?

Hailey - Reply

I'm sorry, but I started laughing uncontrollably at this point! It's like something out of a Conan or Fallon sketch for the all but non sequitur of microwave use, but it's clearly what needs to be done for the glue. I came from a 2007 MBP, and personally replaced the battery multiple times (one step). I was curious about how it was done with my new 2014 model. 32 steps might as well be a punch line...

JeffH - Reply

Hey cut them some slack. There are some really stupid people out there and we don't want some one to end up with their dick caught in the ceiling fan.

logitechtaco -

Never get a job in IT support... I kid you not, earlier I had to instruct someone on how to plug the power jack into their laptop.....

daveoline -

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

A hairdryer works well - hot to the touch is enough to soften the glue to allow it to come off.

Gavin -

If I can't find the new screen how would I fix it. Where can I find the brand new screen.

Crissel Largo - Reply

There are screen replacements on eBay but it appears that you can only buy the digitizer glass. Is it difficult to separate the glass from the LCD screen? Some apple products are rather difficult while others already come separate.

loveofthegame441 - Reply

for the screen, there's a place in Huntsville Alabama called LCDcycle. they have grade a parts

livinginthegump - Reply

Could some one help me please im changing the wifi antenna on my ipad air an don't knoew how to activate the glue on the growding strip. I would think it heat. any ideas thank you.

danielalanreed - Reply

I don't own a microwave... Is there an alternative way you can recommend heating up the iOpener?

margo - Reply

Yes, buy a microwave. They cost about the same as an iOpener!!

seaniepie -

My rear glass is broken what will be the price of thr rear glass..???can i order it from ifixit suggest me some thing.....!!!!i m from india....help me out plz...!!!

Abhishek Dutta - Reply

Always isolate the battery before removing the LCD, and don't reconnect the battery till the LCD is back in place.

You can screw up a few different things by inadvertently turning on a device while the LCD is disconnected.

Also, skip the neck warmer/microwave, get a hot plate or hair drier/heat gun and be careful. (I use a duel sensor digital temp hot plate)

David - Reply

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

This repair isn't possible as far as I know. I have done three glass only repairs now with the same results. After professionally separating the glass and LCD, then re-attaching the AMOLED screen to the NEW digitizer/glass assembly with OCA tape the touch would no longer work... strange since I tried a new digitizer on each Apple Watch I was repairing. I started looking a little closer to the broken digitizer and I removed the silver chip cover to reveal the touch/digitizer controller IC. This extremely small BGA chip is epoxied directly to the flex cable, so removing the chip is a one time thing as you can't remove epoxy chemically after it cures. Each touch/digitizer controller IC is INDIVIDUALLY MARKED with a number, for example #1510. I believe each touch IC is LINKED to each Apple Watch, but it is possible that each IC is linked only to the LCD screen. I can not confirm that is the case because I do not have access to a full LCD/digi/glass to try replacing on a broken apple watch.

Don - Reply

Too bad there is not a warning for bluetooth antenna damage... This guide led me to tearing my antenna.

trogfield - Reply

Disconnecting the battery from the lcd screen can ruin the battery,

so why do that if you are just replacing the digitizer?

rather just open the six screws and disconnect the digitizer.

Yehuda Tsibushkin - Reply


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