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iPhone XS Max Battery Replacement

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Written By: Jeff Suovanen (and 5 other contributors)
  • Comments: 18
  • Favorites: 6
  • Completions: 49

Featured Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

46

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Sections

6

Flags

1

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Introduction

iPhone batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which lasts roughly 18-24 months for most users. After that, your iPhone may need to be charged far more frequently, and iOS may warn you that performance is affected (in other words, your phone will run slower). Use this guide to replace your battery and restore your iPhone to like-new performance.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Note: After the repair, your iPhone may display a warning about the “genuineness” of the battery, even when using original Apple parts. If your iPhone functions normally, you can safely ignore the warning.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Video Overview

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured. Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Edit

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    Edit

  3. The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method. If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger iPhones like the XS Max.

    • The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger iPhones like the XS Max.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Press both suction cups firmly into place.

    • If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

    Edit

  4. Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone. Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need. Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

    • Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Skip the next two steps.

    Edit

  5. If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    • If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Edit

  6. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    Edit

  7. Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

    • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

    Edit

  8. Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    • Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    Edit

  9. The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips. Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port. The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

    • The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

    • Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

    Edit

  10. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

    Edit

  11. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

    Edit

  12. Remove four Y000 screws securing the logic board cover bracket, of the following lengths: Two 1.1 mm screws
    Tool used on this step:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.99

    • Remove four Y000 screws securing the logic board cover bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.1 mm screws

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 3.7 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    Edit

  13. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    • The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

    Edit

  14. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    Edit

  15. Remove the three Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket: Two 1.5 mm screws

    • Remove the three Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket:

    • Two 1.5 mm screws

    • One 1.1 mm screw

    Edit

    I am replacing the screen for the 2nd time - the first repair was done by someone else, and the first 2 screws are 1.5mm and the last screw is 1.1mm… If I put the screw back in am I risking Long Screw Damage?

    Sarah Ybarra - Reply

    I think that the outside screw (red one, one the right) is actually 1.5 mm or something longer than 1.1. Looked that way to me.

    Paul Key - Reply

    From the top, the screws are: 2 x 1,5mm + 1 x 1,1mm

    serdev94 - Reply

    I can confirm the above comments on the screw length. Pls correct it in the description!

    k_neuper - Reply

    Thanks for all your comments! I'll amend this step.

    Arthur Shi - Reply

  16. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Edit

  18. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    Edit

  19. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    Edit

  20. Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket. If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

    • Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

    Edit

    Mine still won’t respond even after reseating any ideas? Ground issue?

    Jasom - Reply

  21. The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place. Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates. Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

    • The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.

    • Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

    Edit

    What if that cable brakes how do u fix that?

    Kourtney Williams - Reply

  22. Remove the display assembly.
    Edit

    No olviden que para que pase el Face Id tienen q cambiar el flex que va encima de la camara delantera con mucho cuidado ya q si le ponen otro flex no funcionara.

    jeferson - Reply

  23. Remove the five 1.4 mm tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and main speaker. Remove the five 1.4 mm tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and main speaker.

    • Remove the five 1.4 mm tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and main speaker.

    Edit

    La imagen no corresponde con un caso real de XS MAX. Tenedlo en cuenta a la hora de volver a montar el dispositivo.

    Tornillo Tri-point = Tornillo de tres puntas

    Dr. Movil - Reply

    What should I do if I stripped one of the Y000 screws. Not sure if it got rusted from water damage.

    Sean - Reply

  24. The bracket is lightly adhered in place. Gently lift to unstick and remove the bracket, being careful not to bend it. If necessary, apply a little heat with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive. (Putting an iOpener on the bracket is not recommended, as this may bend the spring contacts along the top.)

    • The bracket is lightly adhered in place.

    • Gently lift to unstick and remove the bracket, being careful not to bend it.

    • If necessary, apply a little heat with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive. (Putting an iOpener on the bracket is not recommended, as this may bend the spring contacts along the top.)

    Edit

  25. Remove the 1.3 mm tri-point Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover. Remove the 1.3 mm tri-point Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover.

    • Remove the 1.3 mm tri-point Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover.

    Edit

  26. Push the speaker connector cover towards the battery, and then lift to unclip and remove it. Be very careful not to poke or puncture the battery with your tools. Be very careful not to poke or puncture the battery with your tools.

    • Push the speaker connector cover towards the battery, and then lift to unclip and remove it.

    • Be very careful not to poke or puncture the battery with your tools.

    Edit

  27. Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector. Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.

    Edit

  28. Remove the three screws securing the speaker: One 2.7 mm Phillips screw
    Tool used on this step:
    iFixit Precision Bit Driver, Aluminum
    $9.99

    • Remove the three screws securing the speaker:

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.9 mm standoff screw

    • One 3.1 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    Edit

  29. When prying up the speaker, take care not to damage the speaker flex cable you just disconnected. If necessary, bend the cable toward the battery so the speaker has room to come out. Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, near the edge of the iPhone's case.

    • When prying up the speaker, take care not to damage the speaker flex cable you just disconnected. If necessary, bend the cable toward the battery so the speaker has room to come out.

    • Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, near the edge of the iPhone's case.

    • Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker slightly.

    • When reinstalling the speaker, check the position of the flex cable and make sure it doesn't get trapped underneath the speaker.

    Edit

  30. While prying up the speaker, use tweezers to peel away the plastic bumper strip from the top edge of the speaker. If necessary, apply a little heat to soften the adhesive and make the bumper strip easier to separate.

    • While prying up the speaker, use tweezers to peel away the plastic bumper strip from the top edge of the speaker.

    • If necessary, apply a little heat to soften the adhesive and make the bumper strip easier to separate.

    Edit

  31. Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone. Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates. Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

    • Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

    Edit

  32. Remove the speaker. The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.

    • Remove the speaker.

    • The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.

    • To help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the adhesive gasket during reassembly. Prep the area by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly. Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.

    Edit

    Welche Dichtung soll hier verwendet werden?

    Mustafa Dogan - Reply

  33. Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket. Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

    Edit

  34. Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine. Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine.

    • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine.

    Edit

  35. Grasp the plastic bumper strip and carefully lift it over the speaker connector. Grasp the plastic bumper strip and carefully lift it over the speaker connector.

    • Grasp the plastic bumper strip and carefully lift it over the speaker connector.

    Edit

  36. Remove the Taptic Engine assembly. The contact clip on the left side of the Taptic Engine may fall off. Be sure it's installed correctly as shown before reinstalling the Taptic Engine in the iPhone.

    • Remove the Taptic Engine assembly.

    • The contact clip on the left side of the Taptic Engine may fall off. Be sure it's installed correctly as shown before reinstalling the Taptic Engine in the iPhone.

    Edit

  37. The battery is secured to the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—one on the top cell, and three on the bottom.

    • The battery is secured to the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—one on the top cell, and three on the bottom.

    • Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.

    Edit

  38. Separate the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery. Each tab has a small loop in the center; insert a tool through the loop if you're having trouble grabbing hold of the tab.

    • Separate the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.

    • Each tab has a small loop in the center; insert a tool through the loop if you're having trouble grabbing hold of the tab.

    • Don't jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

    Edit

  39. Repeat the above step to separate the remaining two adhesive tabs from the bottom edge of the battery. Take care not to damage the speaker cable connector just below the center adhesive tab. Take care not to damage the speaker cable connector just below the center adhesive tab.

    • Repeat the above step to separate the remaining two adhesive tabs from the bottom edge of the battery.

    • Take care not to damage the speaker cable connector just below the center adhesive tab.

    Edit

  40. In the following steps, you'll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. This special stretch-release adhesive loses its tack when stretched and then comes out in your hand, allowing you to lift out the battery with ease. If the strips break, don't panic! They don't always work as intended. Keep reading for some additional steps for removing broken strips. To increase your odds of success:

    • In the following steps, you'll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. This special stretch-release adhesive loses its tack when stretched and then comes out in your hand, allowing you to lift out the battery with ease.

    • If the strips break, don't panic! They don't always work as intended. Keep reading for some additional steps for removing broken strips.

    • To increase your odds of success:

    • Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.

    • Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.

    • Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 15-30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.

    • Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.

    • If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.

    Edit

  41. Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone. Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

    • Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

    • If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

    • If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

    Edit

  42. Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last. Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last. Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last.

    • Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last.

    Edit

  43. Remove the center strip, being very careful not to snag it on the speaker flex cable. If necessary, pause and use a spudger to un-stick the speaker flex cable from the adhesive strip. If necessary, pause and use a spudger to un-stick the speaker flex cable from the adhesive strip.

    • Remove the center strip, being very careful not to snag it on the speaker flex cable.

    • If necessary, pause and use a spudger to un-stick the speaker flex cable from the adhesive strip.

    Edit

  44. The final pull tab lies very close to the Face ID hardware. If damaged, Face ID can only be repaired by Apple, so work with care. Peel and separate the pull tab on the final adhesive strip, on the top edge of the upper battery cell.

    • The final pull tab lies very close to the Face ID hardware. If damaged, Face ID can only be repaired by Apple, so work with care.

    • Peel and separate the pull tab on the final adhesive strip, on the top edge of the upper battery cell.

    Edit

  45. Pull and remove the final adhesive strip. The strip may fling the battery when it separates from the iPhone, so hold your hand over the battery to secure it—but don't press down on the battery itself, or the added pressure may cause the adhesive strip to break off underneath the battery. If you removed all four adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

    • Pull and remove the final adhesive strip.

    • The strip may fling the battery when it separates from the iPhone, so hold your hand over the battery to secure it—but don't press down on the battery itself, or the added pressure may cause the adhesive strip to break off underneath the battery.

    • If you removed all four adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

    • If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).

    • Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.

    • Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

    • Be careful not to damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

    • For an alternative method to unstick the battery from the case, continue with the next step below.

    Edit

  46. If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery. Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.

    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

    • Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    • Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.

    • Wear gloves to protect your fingers, or wrap each end of the string around a tool.

    • Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.

    • Start from the top or bottom edge of the battery, and pull toward the middle. Don't pull the string through the middle third of the battery, or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath.

    • If you choose to use pry tools to lift the battery out of the iPhone, use extreme caution or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

    Edit

  47. Grasp the battery from the bottom edge and remove it from the iPhone.

    • Grasp the battery from the bottom edge and remove it from the iPhone.

    • If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

    • Reinstall the Taptic Engine and speaker before installing a new battery. This helps keep the battery aligned correctly during installation.

    • If your new battery does not come with adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide for help replacing the adhesive strips.

    • Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    Edit
Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

49 other people completed this guide.

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Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 08/06/2013

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7 Comments

Fine little tutorial.. I do miss however a tutorial for the volume flex cable. Is it somehow connected to the wireless charging pad inside (underneath the battery?).

ArHerning - Reply

Warum werden eigentlich die ganzen Bauteile entfernt? Hab bei meinem 6s die Schritte übersprungenen und mit angewinkeltem Display, den Akku getauscht. Hat perfekt funktioniert, also warum? Elektrische Trennung?

L B - Reply

Is there a way to remove the important battery message ? The notification won’t go away.

Tara Lane - Reply

Yet another excellent guide. Followed it to the letter and completed another successful repair. These guides are invaluable. Thank you

Poppy - Reply

Does anyone have an answer to my issue I’m currently facing? Bought a refurbished iPhone XS Max online and looks like the seller has replaced the battery, however the phone is experiencing technical difficulties as it keeps switching off and restarting every 1 minute or so. Could this be because they didn’t use a genuine apple battery as a replacement or they just didn’t fit the battery correctly when replacing it? I really appreciate if anyone could help, would save me a tonne of money that apple will probably charge me if I go to them for help.

PIXIE DUST - Reply

They probably used a “amazon” battery the best way would be to replace it your self.

Der Teschnicker -

Ein Hinweis darauf, wie man das Batteriemanagement-Board vom alten Akku auf den neuen Akku überträgt wäre als Add-on sicher hilfreich. Der Aufwand ist überschaubar (Werkzeug wird benötigt), und dann erscheint auch die Meldung mit der Batterienachricht nicht mehr.

Nikolaus Hirschmann - Reply

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