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Introduction

The Taptic Engine produces your iPhone's vibration and haptic feedback functions. Use this guide to remove and/or replace the Taptic Engine in an iPhone 8.

Note: This guide instructs you to fully detach and remove the display assembly; this is intended to make the phone easier to work with and to prevent accidental damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable removing the Taptic Engine while keeping the display cables attached, you can skip the steps for disconnecting the display.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

    An. Jahnke - Reply

    I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

    Johnny Emrica - Reply

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth - Reply

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko - Reply

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges - Reply

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B - Reply

  3. Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm - Reply

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica - Reply

  4. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - Reply

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - Reply

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman - Reply

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood - Reply

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica - Reply

  5. Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Stop near the top left corner of the display. Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
    • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

  6. Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

  7. Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display. Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.
    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  8. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

  9. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  10. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - Reply

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert - Reply

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys - Reply

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys - Reply

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    • Remove four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • Two 2.8 mm screws

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Not Y000 this time haha

    Easy Repair - Reply

    can same length screws mixed up?

    Brook布魯克 - Reply

    It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

    Arthur Shi -

    using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

    Mark Ordaz - Reply

    I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

    William Mitchell -

    Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

    Kristina Graham - Reply

    Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

    Kristina Graham -

    Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

    John Toth - Reply

    Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

    O D - Reply

  11. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board. Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board.

    • Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

    Gareth - Reply

    So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

    John M - Reply

    I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

    Kenneth Moore -

  12. Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket. To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

  13. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.

  14. Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

    Thomas Tritt - Reply

    This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

    Jared Hensley - Reply

    ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

    Jared Hensley - Reply

    My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

    Ray Rushing - Reply

    Mine too? Any help?

    George Waller -

    These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

    Niklas Brammer - Reply

  15. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the  front panel sensor assembly connector. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the  front panel sensor assembly connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  16. Remove the display assembly.

    Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

    After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

    At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

    Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

    Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

    I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

    DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

    John - Reply

    Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

    From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

    Arthur Shi -

    I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

    Gary Berman -

    I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

    Matt D - Reply

  17. Remove the three screws securing the bracket next to the Taptic Engine:
    • Remove the three screws securing the bracket next to the Taptic Engine:

    • One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.9 mm Phillips screw

    My phone had Phillips screws in all three places, so I did not need the Y000 screwdriver bit.

    Daryl Maunder - Reply

    I don’t see the point in steps 18-27 if we’re only changing the battery. I pulled out the sticky tape with taptic and all this other jazz still intact. Am I missing something? Reconnecting that taptic connection cost me 5 years off my life, needlessly.

    William Mitchell - Reply

    Hey William!

    We instruct people to remove the Taptic Engine in order to minimize the chance that the battery adhesive will tear when you try to pull it out. The steep angle you have to pull the adhesive with the Taptic Engine installed dramatically increases the chance that the adhesive will break under the battery.

    Arthur Shi -

    since the sticky tape will usually tear anyway and it is no big deal, I agree stop at this point and take the battery out. Too many things can go wrong removing more screws and connecting/disconnecting all the connectors. Go to video instructions at this point. Wish I did.

    Bob McCall - Reply

    My tape tore away and now my home button does not work, which from what I see is to do with the tapic engine. It seems to be more dangerous to do that than to use heat and pry the battery out (which I had to do anyway). You should at least put in an warning/option for users.

    Gary Berman - Reply

    Hi Gary,

    The Home button connector is not related to the Taptic Engine and should not be affected by anything close to the battery adhesive. I would suggest carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the screen connectors, and make sure that there is no debris on the contacts. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you do this, or you will risk damaging the screen.

    Arthur Shi -

  18. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  19. Gently slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.
    • Gently slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker.

    • This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.

  20. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board.

  21. Slide an opening pick under the antenna flex cable to hold the socket down. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from its socket, using the opening pick to hold the socket down. Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.
    • Slide an opening pick under the antenna flex cable to hold the socket down.

    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from its socket, using the opening pick to hold the socket down.

    • Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

    Don’t worry if the socket lifts up a bit as you get it out. You’ll need to lift it up later (Step 25) so don’t push it back into place yet.

    Daryl Maunder - Reply

    Every instruction online (including your YouTube video) leaves the Taptic Engine in place. This added step did not help with battery replacement, and led to an hour of frustration trying to get the connector back in place.

    jgrsf - Reply

    I noticed the same thing and wondered if it was necessary. Thanks

    Laura Bernal -

    Yeah, I broke the connector off of my taptic engine trying to get it to reconnect to the lighting connector plate….freaking nightmare with that and the co-axe wifi connector……..I now have a working phone without haptics

    dave -

    I agree jgrsf

    Bob McCall - Reply

    I was glad I had the Taptic Engine removed when I failed to remove the battery adhesives. It leaves more room to work around the battery.

    Alexandre Deloffre - Reply

    I was following this for replacing the loud speaker. I found that during reconnecting the antenna flex, I slightly rocked the taptic connector and it came lose. I was frustrated because my pre-close up test had everything working, then I shut it down, made sure everything was connected and put it all together (including a bang-on job on the display adhesive!!) and wham - no taptic responses.

    Just finishing reseating it, fought with the antenna flex, then ensured the taptic connector was seated properly underneath. All good now.

    Bill Shannon - Reply

  22. Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.
    • Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

    • Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    Tiene que ser una broma que en el kit no te venga el destornillador plano para abrir el tornillo separador. Me habeis dejado a mitad

    Charlie - Reply

    Why is this screwdriver bit not included in the fix kit?

    It’s more important to get this unusual piece than a common Phillips head.

    Daryl Maunder - Reply

    When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!

    Daniel Timothy Case - Reply

    Be sure to look through all the packaging if you bought the iFixit replacement battery - the Standoff Screwdriver bit was in the package with the battery and screen adhesive (the box labeled “Repair Part”) rather than in with the tools (the box labeled “Repair Tools”).

    Owen Edwards - Reply

    I just used a sharp knife for the orange one

    jackjaggermanjanson - Reply

  23. Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it. Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it.
    • Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it.

    Just a heads up, I found a small bit of adhesive tape between the antenna cable socket and the connector below.

    Nic Giannandrea - Reply

    Yep, I did find it too. Thanks

    Stefano Restuccia -

    Hola,

    Se me ha roto ese conector pequeño de la antena y no encuentro donde puedo comprar un repuesto. ¿Alguna idea?

    Gracias

    Eduardo Moral - Reply

    I also found adhesive between the antenna cable socket and the connector below. I was not able to separate the two (mediocre middle-aged vision and lack of leverage to create the separation), and therefore was not able to fully disconnect the haptic engine. Instead, I gently wriggled the haptic engine out and, leaving it connected, rotated it 180 degrees and out of the way toward the bottom right corner of the phone. I am hoping that I have not damaged the thin ribbon cable. On the up side, for the first time ever I was able to remove the adhesive strips from under the battery (they didn’t break).

    John Weise - Reply

    I just want to follow up to say that I did not damage the thin ribbon cable connecting the Taptic Engine. I did forget to reconnect it, though. Once I got that straight, it worked fine.

    John Weise -

    I found that the Antenna cable socket is best to remain attached to the taptic engine cable has i find that it is very easy to brake.

    I have in the past also broking the Taptic engine cable when trying to fit it to its sockets. the Taptic engine cable is very easy to brake so would advise that great care is taking when both fitting and removing.

    Jake Hearle - Reply

    Yep, broke my cable…hoping i can order a replacement taptic engine,,,,phone works without it, but no vibrator or haptics

    dave -

  24. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.
    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.

    I found that this cable was glued down with similar adhesive to the screen. It pulled away as I removed the taptic engine from the phone (next step).

    Daryl Maunder - Reply

    My taptic engine had two screws on the lh side. still worked the same.

    Chris Rainone - Reply

    Be really careful here in the reassembly. I managed to rip the cable here, and now best case I won’t have any haptic feedback. :(

    Nick Cox - Reply

    I’m sorry to hear that! If you’d like to get that fixed sometime, we do sell a replacement part!

    Arthur Shi -

    On re-assembly, the taptic engine might not work. Before panicking, ensure that the taptic engine connector didn’t get dislodged when fighting to get the antenna flex reconnected.

    Bill Shannon - Reply

    on my A1905 iphone 8 - This is not correct!

    There is an extra leg coming off the taptic engine’s flex cable with a micro-coax antenna connector going underneath the speaker!

    You can’t take the engine off yet!!

    Jason Minahan - Reply

  25. Remove the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Don't forget to reapply the display adhesive before reinstalling the display.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 8 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

11 other people completed this guide.

Arthur Shi

Member since: 01/03/2018

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2 Comments

Is the iPhone 8 Taptic Engine interchangeable with the iPhone 8+ Taptic Engine. So that you can put the one from the Plus model into the regular one.

Peter Horvat - Reply

I would like to add that you’ll need a special tool to read and copy the serial number to the new Taptic Engine so that it will provide proper feedback.

Jesse Hooton - Reply

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