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Introduction

Use this guide to replace a faulty front camera on your iPhone 8 Plus. This camera is part of a larger assembly containing a microphone and proximity/ambient light sensors, all of which are replaced as a single unit.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws from the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    what do I do about super stripped screws?

    Ean Palacios - Reply

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

  3. Apply a suction cup to the lower half  of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Warning ! If you pull too hard (reheat the underside of the display again), you create an gap of air between the glass and the lcd display !

    When you replace the display assembly you end up with gray stains on the display.

    Result: you have to buy a new display (assembly).

    Arnoud - Reply

    Using just the single suction cup that is included in the battery replacement kit probably wouldn’t open the device. An iOpener and an iSlack should be the recommended method. However, you can get it open with just the single suction cup and iOpener, but does take a lot of time.

    Get an iOpener and iSlack with the battery replacement kit.

    Chris - Reply

  4. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

  5. Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Stop near the top left corner of the display. Stop near the top left corner of the display.
    • Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

  6. Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    I had really good luck using a hairdryer on some of the more stubborn portions of adhesive.

    Jessica Kirsh - Reply

  7. Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

  8. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  9. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

  10. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  11. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Das “links” ist auf dem Foto rechts.

    Matze Diamond - Reply

  12. SKIP THE UPGRADE

    Save by fixing with an all-in-one kit.

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    SKIP THE UPGRADE

    Save by fixing with an all-in-one kit.

    Shop iPhone Fix Kits
    • Remove four Phillips (JIS) screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.4 mm screw

    • One 2.7 mm screw

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

  13. Remove the lower display cable bracket.
    • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

  14. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone during your repair.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    When I reassembled the iPhone 8 Plus, I had to plug it into a Lightning cable to wake it up (just pushing power button wasn’t sufficient).

    browniestarmite - Reply

  15. Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket. To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.

    Here is my problem:

    When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. The screen worked before I tried to change it? And one last thing: My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?

    smikalsen - Reply

  16. Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step. Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.
    • Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.

    I used the other end of the spudger on this connector and it seemed to work a little better for me. I came in from underneath the top-right edge instead of the bottom right.

    Jessica Kirsh - Reply

  17. Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector: One 1.0 mm screw
    • Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.0 mm screw

    • One 1.2 mm screw

    una vite da 1mm e due viti da 1.2 mm???

    Matteo Carachino - Reply

    Ciao Matteo! Grazie per l’osservazione. Ho appena modificato il testo :) La traduzione è aperta a tutti. Hai quindi la possibilità di fare le tue suggestione direttamente nel testo e sei il benvenuto se vuoi usare di questa possibilità nel futuro. Grazie ancora per la vigilanza! Saluti, Claire

    Claire Rapp -

    The tool kit does include a 1.0 or1.2mm screwdriver! How am I supposed to remove those screws?

    peter frommer - Reply

    Bought the screwdriver that supposedly fits these screws and it still doesn’t work.

    hypercarduser - Reply

    My bracket looks different. Can’t get these screws out.

    Ray Rushing - Reply

  18. Remove the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.
    • Remove the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  19. Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket. Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket.

  20. Remove the display assembly.
  21. Remove the five Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker bracket:
    • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker bracket:

    • Two 1.8 mm screws

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    • One 2.8 mm screw

  22. Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.
    • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

  23. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the front-facing camera from its housing. Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath. Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the front-facing camera from its housing.

    • Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath.

  24. Remove the earpiece speaker.
    • Remove the earpiece speaker.

  25. Gently fold the camera and attached ribbon cable toward the bottom of the iPhone to allow access to the components underneath. Gently fold the camera and attached ribbon cable toward the bottom of the iPhone to allow access to the components underneath.
    • Gently fold the camera and attached ribbon cable toward the bottom of the iPhone to allow access to the components underneath.

  26. Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

    • The sensors in the following steps are fragile. To increase your chances of removing them without damage, repeatedly add more heat as needed. Alternatively, add a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol and let it penetrate under the sensors before you pry them up.

  27. Slide a spudger under the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing. Slide a spudger under the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.
    • Slide a spudger under the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

  28. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the proximity sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the proximity sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the proximity sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.
    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the proximity sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

  29. Insert the sharp edge of an iFixit opening tool underneath the camera assembly's flex cable, on the opposite side from the front-facing camera. Use an iOpener or hair dryer as needed to heat the top portion of the display and soften the adhesive securing the flex cable. Pry up to separate the edge of the flex cable from the back of the display.
    • Insert the sharp edge of an iFixit opening tool underneath the camera assembly's flex cable, on the opposite side from the front-facing camera.

    • Use an iOpener or hair dryer as needed to heat the top portion of the display and soften the adhesive securing the flex cable.

    • Pry up to separate the edge of the flex cable from the back of the display.

  30. Insert the point of a spudger underneath the same portion of the flex cable that you separated in the previous step. Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger underneath the row of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts. Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger underneath the row of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts.
    • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the same portion of the flex cable that you separated in the previous step.

    • Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger underneath the row of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts.

  31. Remove the front camera and sensor cable assembly. A piece of black double-sided insulating tape lies between the display and three rows of copper contacts on the back of the camera/sensor cable. It may remain stuck to the display, or it may come off with the cable. When reassembling, verify the tape is in place, or else cover the contacts on the back of the cable with an appropriate tape, such as Kapton tape.
    • Remove the front camera and sensor cable assembly.

    • A piece of black double-sided insulating tape lies between the display and three rows of copper contacts on the back of the camera/sensor cable. It may remain stuck to the display, or it may come off with the cable.

    • When reassembling, verify the tape is in place, or else cover the contacts on the back of the cable with an appropriate tape, such as Kapton tape.

    Why is the insulating tape needed, and what other materials should I using instead of it if I loose the tape?

    jhtran1234 - Reply

    I moved the insulating tape from the broken screen to the new screen.

    browniestarmite - Reply

    Don’t forget to check if your new screen assembly has the two plastic pieces for the camera and proximity detector. You’ll need to move them from the old screen if it doesn’t have them.

    browniestarmite - Reply

    Hi, is it possible for the flex cable to work without placing he tape over the contacts?

    Thanks

    shaneyarrow - Reply

    I forgot to add move the double sided tape over and I’m wondering if that was why my ear speaker wasn’t working. I opened it back up and put the tape on the new screen but the speaker is still not working. Any ideas? Did the speaker “short” out?

    Ming - Reply

    Mine the same , did you solve the problem? Thank you

    Marco Mazzini -

    I bought the ifixit tool kit iPhone plus 8 screen. Do i need to skip this step ? (not sure)

    Marcial Vazquez - Reply

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

15 other people completed this guide.

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 08/06/2013

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6 Comments

What happens if the camera/ sensor cables come apart but dont tear if ya know what i mean? theres 2 cables and theyre like taped on top of one another and they connect eachother… well, in my case they just came apart..

Devayn “LiveLoveDMND” Diamond - Reply

Just had the same problem. I placed a new flexcable, they're not very expensive.

Davy Thoelen -

what is the tape, or the gold connectors that the tape covers for?

lewis - Reply

Salve,

Ho proceduto alla sostituzione della camera frontale ma, quando accendo il tel il sistema si avvia in modalità loop senza mai avviare il sistema operativo.

Ovviamente se non collego il flat della camera frontale il telefono si avvia regolarmente. Ho anche provato con una camera frontale nuova senza risultato.

Potreste aiutarmi?

maurizio.r - Reply

I removed one of the 2 small circular stickers (one is white, one green) from where the sensor gets placed. Is it a problem?

alberto pias - Reply

After replacing the screen on an iphone 8 plus, the earpiece speaker won’t work. I tried everything and it just won’t work, I’m guessing the flex cable got damaged when transfering it from the old to the new screen. Are the gold “contacts” supposed to be making contact with something or only the black tape?

Has anyone else had this problem?

I don’t know if changing the flex will solve the problem or should i change both the flex and the earpiece just to be sure?

Allan Sierra Olvera - Reply

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