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iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement

What you need

  1. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Remove the pentalobe screws: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

    An. Jahnke - Reply

    I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

    Johnny Emrica - Reply

    That’s a great idea thank you

    Mohamed Dekkiche -

    Screw to the left of the charging port will not come out. Screw on the right came out no problem. Any ideas?

    Bill Maher - Reply

    I already replaced my iPhone 8 battery with one from iFixit and honestly I wasn't impressed. It worked well for a few months, but then I started noticing the peak performance capability dropping significantly thereafter. I followed the initial charging instructions to a tee and only let it drop below 20% once a month. Normal everyday use for me... no intense apps like games, etc. I considered having Apple do it this time around, but for these older models they don't keep the batteries in-stock and you have to give them your phone for up to a week. So in the end, I opted to try another battery from iFixit instead. Hopefully this one will last longer.

    tripmusic - Reply

    How with the gigantic kit do I not have a 3 1/2 pentalobe driver the very first screwdriver I reach for and that I need is not in any of these kits. What’s up with that?

    Michael Stephens - Reply

  2. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Mark your opening picks: step 2, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Mark your opening picks: step 2, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Mark your opening picks: step 2, image 3 of 3
    • If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

    • Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

    • You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

    • Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

    Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

    Sloan Looney - Reply

    Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    what fix kit?

    Meow Purr -

    My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

    WILLIAM HARRIS - Reply

    Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

    AndyF - Reply

    My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

    Gijs Leegwater - Reply

  3. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: step 3, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: step 3, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: step 3, image 3 of 3
    Tool used on this step:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
    Buy
    • The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

    • Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

  4. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 4, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 4, image 3 of 3
    • Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.

    • Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

  5. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 2
    • Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.

    • You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

    • Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.

    • Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next three steps.

    it looks like a....

    Gergely Soki - Reply

  6. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Heat the display: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • The next three steps show how to separate the screen using a suction cup.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth - Reply

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko - Reply

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges - Reply

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B - Reply

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P - Reply

    I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

    Adam Yavner - Reply

    I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

    terrelldoc - Reply

    I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

    Matt Brown - Reply

    I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

    Paul Aron - Reply

    I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

    John Barker - Reply

    Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

    tripmusic - Reply

    The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

    John - Reply

    I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

    John Noble - Reply

    No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

    John Noble - Reply

    Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

    John Noble - Reply

    . . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

    John Noble - Reply

    Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

    Matt C - Reply

  7. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Separate the display: step 7, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Separate the display: step 7, image 2 of 2
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm - Reply

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica - Reply

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson - Reply

    Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

    Bradley Steiner - Reply

    iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

    Matti Haveri - Reply

  8. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 8, image 3 of 3
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - Reply

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - Reply

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman - Reply

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood - Reply

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica - Reply

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard - Reply

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat - Reply

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers - Reply

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk - Reply

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz - Reply

    I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

    Alessio Toniolo - Reply

    Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

    Bradley Steiner - Reply

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

    dantegd - Reply

    The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

    thewrytstf - Reply

    sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

    Andi Tony - Reply

    I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

    Sharaf Kazi - Reply

  9. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 9, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber - Reply

  10. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Screen information: step 10, image 1 of 1
    • There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

    I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

    Gib Jeffries - Reply

  11. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

    No pick in the kit you sent me.

    Ted Cooper - Reply

  12. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 12, image 2 of 2
    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  13. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 13, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 13, image 3 of 3
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers - Reply

    I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

    Adam Yavner - Reply

    This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!

    wendyhoward - Reply

  14. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 2
    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  15. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - Reply

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert - Reply

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys - Reply

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys - Reply

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

    Mangled Jargon - Reply

  16. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Disconnect the battery: step 16, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Disconnect the battery: step 16, image 2 of 2
    Tool used on this step:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.95
    Buy
    • Remove four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • Two 2.8 mm screws

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Not Y000 this time haha

    Easy Repair - Reply

    can same length screws mixed up?

    Brook布魯克 - Reply

    It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

    Arthur Shi -

    using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

    Mark Ordaz - Reply

    I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

    William Mitchell -

    Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

    Kristina Graham - Reply

    Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

    Kristina Graham -

    Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

    John Toth - Reply

    Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

    O D - Reply

    took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws

    Karen Flowers - Reply

    It is important to keep careful track of the screws' position. Have a tidy workplace -- a few times when I tried to re-attach the very tiny screws with the tweezer, they slipped and flew away and I almost lost them.

    Matti Haveri - Reply

    can you strip the screws / how can you tell if its strip or not

    antonio - Reply

  17. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board.

    • Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

    Gareth - Reply

    I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.

    Jeff -

    So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

    John M - Reply

    I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

    Kenneth Moore -

    If I have to repeat this, I'd also consider removing replacing the battery at this point. The loose display must be then carefully fixed so the connectors don't break. And then it is not possible to re-attach the waterproof seal.

    The waterproof seal was included in the kit, but there were no instructions for it so I now skipped that. I later found YouTube video which seems to describe it (starting at 7:40):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcgGRhaX...

    Matti Haveri -

    This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck

    Karen Flowers - Reply

    The display ribbon is a certain length and allows for some give, but behind it is hidden the Home button/TouchID ribbon, which sits against what amounts to a razor blade. This ribbon is much more taut than the display one, and therefore you have far less freedom of movement than you think you do. This is absolutely an intentional trap to discourage replacing your own battery. Quite frankly, it’s despicable.

    Anyway, so beware of that, because although I was very careful and did not even swing the screen very far (not more than 90°), the Home button ribbon tore and now needs to be serviced. Home button is disabled now.

    Apple should be ashamed of themselves for this. Please do look at the legislation effort that people are doing to try to get this kind of sabotage illegal, as well as all sorts of other gimmicks they pull. For a company that makes phenomenal products, they’re controlling like an abusive spouse.

    Dan Knight

    daniel - Reply

    That happened to me and I could not figure out how it got broken. It's the home button and fingerprint reader.

    But I'm not bothering to get it fixed and I'm not replacing the entire screen. I went into system prefs/accessibility and activated the on-screen home button. Oh, well.

    Mangled Jargon -

    I cannot get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. Any tips/tricks? New and old battery connections appear similar. It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery.

    Robert Ast - Reply

    Some reports here seem to indicate that the battery must be the very last connector to re-connect because otherwise there might be malfunction in some display components?

    It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery. But the most difficult part for me was to get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. I tried many times to carefully position and press it down with my fingertip or the flat end of the spudger but it did not hold its position. Maybe I pressed too weak because I was afraid breaking the connector and the mosfet above (?) it. But finally to my surprise it connected (at that point I temporarily booted the iPhone with the loose display to verify that the battery was connected). Whew, it succeeded!

    Matti Haveri - Reply

    The connectors have very little "click" to them when they do seat properly, and are covered with soft foam. Very challenging to attach them by feel, and having the screen propped up, blocks light from exactly where you need it.

    Steve Trotman - Reply

  18. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Disconnect the display and digitizer: step 18, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Disconnect the display and digitizer: step 18, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    I broke the lower display connector. Is it possible to replace that part separately or do I need to buy a full screen replacement?

    Ross Mckellar - Reply

    You need to buy a new screen

    conrad veldhouse -

    이렇게 친절하게 정성스럽게 분해도 올리신 분은 처음이네요 진정 프로/ 기타 나머지 잡것들은 대충 올려 돈이나 벌어보자는 업자num들/ 배터리 교체하는 유툽 영상보다...업자가 올린 ...배터리 교체는 따라했으나 그후 배터리 교체와는 전혀 상관 없는 액정 뒤판을 jo빤다고 설명도 없이 뜯어 그것까지 따라하다 액정이 나가버려 지금 무주공산에서 홀로 검색하다 이걸 보게됨

    평생놀아난다 - Reply

  19. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 19, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.

  20. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 20, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

    Thomas Tritt - Reply

    This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

    Jared Hensley - Reply

    These are the same size screws mentioned in Step 17.

    Douglas Walker -

    ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

    Jared Hensley - Reply

    My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

    Ray Rushing - Reply

    Mine too? Any help?

    George Waller -

    These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

    Niklas Brammer - Reply

  21. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 21, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    Do you have a link for the flex cord shown in the pictures so I can purchase it? Having a hard time locating that exact assembly

    Regal Carveiro - Reply

    It’s of a piece with the front camera.

    xint - Reply

  22. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Remove the display assembly: step 22, image 1 of 1

    Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

    After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

    At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

    Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

    Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

    I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

    DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

    John - Reply

    Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

    From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

    Arthur Shi -

    I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

    Gary Berman -

    I also skipped removing the Taptic Engine. I could only half-way pull the lower battery tapes and completely the upper tapes after carefully prying them loose with the tweezer. I then used a hair-dryer for a minute to warm the battery and the other side of the phone (I used my other hand to make sure I did not apply too much heat. Make sure you do not blow the tiny loose screws away with the hair dryer!) and then slowly lifted the upper battery somewhat with the Opening pics tool, then re-heated the lower remaining tapes and quite easily lifted the battery out.

    I had bought two-sided tape to reconnect the battery but it had the tapes pre-installed (I wonder if it is necessary to tape the battery at all?).

    Matti Haveri -

    I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

    Matt D - Reply

    Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

    - use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

    - use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

    - Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

    Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

    I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

    Howard - Reply

    I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible

    Hein Blöd -

    Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.

    Lynn Thomas - Reply

    Struggling with the glued down display, then properly cleaning all the remains of the old seal, then positioning the new seal is 95% of this job. I purchased my phone refurbished and it clearly had already been serviced once, there were remnants of an old seal below the current seal due to improper cleaning and prep that made getting the phone open harder than it needed to be.

    Steve Trotman - Reply

    For my 2nd iPhone 8 battery replacement, I chose not to remove the display completely, or the Taptic Engine and I was successful. You have to pay extra attention and it is a bit trickier to keep the display from moving around too much, but I think minimizing the amount of screws and connections to take out, the better. You can easily lose the screws and you have to mind which ones go where, as there are so many different lengths. YMMV.

    tripmusic - Reply

    In retrospect, I also would have skipped ahead to step 33. I didn't, but my efforts at removing the adhesive tape were also unsuccessful so steps 23-33 were for naught. Ended up applying isopropyl alcohol, then warming the back, and finally just physically levered the battery out. Battery was slightly deformed and became slightly warm, so as soon as I got it out I just put it outside on a brick.

    But the replacement worked.

    Peter Benson - Reply

  23. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Remove the SIM card: step 23, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Remove the SIM card: step 23, image 2 of 2
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool, bit, or a straightened paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force. However, ensure the eject tool is properly aligned beforehand as to not damage the eject mechanism inside the phone.

    Prolly goes without saying, but should you power off phone before this step?

    jklue - Reply

    If you are merely swapping the SIM card, you don’t need to power off your iPhone. If you plan to do any repairs that involve opening the phone, you should definitely power off your iPhone.

    Arthur Shi -

  24. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 24, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 24, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

    • The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    • A thin rubber gasket around the SIM card tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket or the entire SIM card tray to protect your iPhone's internal components.

  25. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Disconnect the logic board: step 25, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Disconnect the logic board: step 25, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the camera cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket.

    When replacing, used iFixit tweezers to gently hold/bend the cable, and used my finger to press the connector back in place. This was the best way I could get the connector lined up and seated properly.

    Habel - Reply

  26. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 1
    Tool used on this step:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49
    Buy
    • Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:

    • One 3.0 mm standoff screw

    • One 3.1 mm Phillips screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    The screw and standoff are the other way round in this step. The photo shows the small screw removed and the standoff securing the logicboard is circled incorrectly. Also you may find that the standoff screw is not magnetic, making it a little tricky to replace!

    Michael Millington - Reply

    Hi Michael,

    You are correct; thanks for catching that! The original image was correct, and for some reason the image was updated, and no longer correct. I have reverted it back to the original image.

    Arthur Shi -

    wrong Screws in Picture

    mmiller - Reply

    Be careful when reassembling. These screws came demagnetized for me in the process, and they’re really hard to put in if that happens.

    Nick Cox - Reply

    These screws are not magnetized! If you are trying to put them back, use some tweezers to align them, and while still using the tweezers, grab your standoff driver and push down, then you can screw it in with ease.

    Sean - Lua Tech - Reply

    Thanks for the tip.

    Habel -

    I used a 1.5mm flat screwdriver to do the one with the standoff bit.

    Habel - Reply

  27. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the rear-facing camera bracket.

  28. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 28, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the flash connector from its socket by prying it straight up.

    The small connector is not actually for the flash, the flash and mic module are just below that and connect to the same cable as the power button.

    Bonrad C - Reply

  29. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two screws securing the upper cable bracket:

    • One 2.9 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    Logically - one wouldn’t need to take out all these things to take out something at the bottom of the phone - but in order to get good access to it, you must remove the logic board - which is long and all the way up at the top connected to the antenna. Follow the steps - it works.

    Chris Rainone - Reply

  30. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 30, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the upper cable bracket.

  31. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 31, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the upper cable connector up from its socket.

  32. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Remove the top left antenna component: step 32, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three Phillips 1.3 mm screws securing the top left antenna component.

    1,2mm ! not 1,3mm ! thx

    Boni Zei - Reply

  33. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 33, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top of edge of the case.

    Be careful not to strip this screw...I did and I'm going to try to proceed without taking off the antenna component.

    Jacob Steineke - Reply

    Update: You can still go on with the replacement if you do not take off the antenna component

    Jacob Steineke -

    I think this screw is stripped on my iPhone , shittt. So I can just skip this part? or what?

    Jesse henrique -

    If you can avoid putting in battery after this screw, that’ll be easier. I wound up using bit only with my fingers to get an initial thread going.

    anonymous 6745 - Reply

  34. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 34, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the antenna component.

    This is the GPS antenna module.

    anonymous 6745 - Reply

  35. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Remove the top left grounding clip: step 35, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

  36. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 36, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the grounding clip.

    what happen if don't put this part?

    albert saens - Reply

    Hi Albert,

    It’s hard to tell. Most phone functions will probably work, but you may start getting quirky problems.

    Arthur Shi -

    If it comes out it must go back in *no spare parts *

    Josh Brito - Reply

    J'aurais plutôt dit "...le câble de mise à la masse"

    RobertAncet - Reply

    Bonjour @roroancet, merci beaucoup de votre remarque ! Cela nous a donné l'occasion de plonger dans l'univers de l'électricité ! Il s'avère ainsi que la mise à la masse est le terme approprié ici. J'ai corrigé notre erreur. La prochaine fois, n'hésitez pas à le faire vous-même. iFixit est un wiki modifiable par tout le monde. Encore merci pour votre attention !

    Claire Miesch -

  37. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Unscrew the logic board: step 37, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three screws securing the motherboard:

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.5 mm standoff screw

    • One 2.2 mm standoff screw

    The One 1.8 mm Phillips screw was buried under some gasket material. It took some twezzer work to get that material off.

    I.T. Service Desk - Reply

    this is probably the most difficult part because the ‘top 2.5 mm on my version was under a piece of ribbon cable that had to be pulled back. Also notice - this picture is inverted. So the locations are reversed (obviously for clarity)

    Chris Rainone - Reply

    The 1.8mm was indeed buried.

    fotoband - Reply

    Buried 1.8mm Phillips easily located under the gasket material by zooming in on the photo to see position relative to connectors. Material is fibrous, so be patient.

    Ben Sandness - Reply

    I’ve been searching on internet about the black stickers on those parts in the phone and I found nothing about them, what are they? Electrical Tapes? Does it make any differences if we remove them? If yes is, there anything else we can use to replace them? We’re they are for any specific purposes? Thanks in advance if anyone can help me understand

    EverWill - Reply

    Used a 2.5 mm flat screwdriver for both of the standoff screws. There was definitely black adhesive covering the 1.8mm Phillips. As Ben Sandness said, take your time, keep working at it.

    Habel - Reply

  38. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 38, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 38, image 2 of 2
    • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

  39. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 39, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 39, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  40. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Remove the logic board: step 40, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement, Remove the logic board: step 40, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable.

  41. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 41, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 41, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Lightning cable connector.

  42. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 42, image 1 of 1
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector.

  43. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 43, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 43, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Be careful not to pull against any cables. If you feel resistance, check that all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

  44. iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 44, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 44, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Logic Board Replacement: step 44, image 3 of 3
    • Grasping it by the edges, lift the logic board near the battery connector and remove it.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

87 other people completed this guide.

Arthur Shi

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20 Comments

Hello evryone. Do I need a new touch ID that fits the motherboard or can I use my old touch ID?

The motherboards that are for sale, sell with touch ID and without. That`s why I am asking.

Sebastian Bojek - Reply

Hi Sebastian,

Yes, the Touch ID is paired with the motherboard. In order to keep Touch ID functionality, you have to use the fingerprint sensor that comes with the replacement.

Arthur Shi -

can i use this process two switch a logic board from a working i phone to one that is icloud locked?

Kenneth Zapata - Reply

That’s why I’m here

Kol Rukaj -

Hi Kenneth,

The phone’s “identity” is based off of the logic board, so switching a logic board will remove the iCloud lock—if the replacement logic board is not locked. Note that the Touch ID hardware is paired each logic board.

Arthur Shi -

It may work but the card to be replaced needs to be unlocked with iCloud.

Yuri Henrique -

i have an iphone 8 plus icloud locked ,is it possible that if i change the motherboard with a new one so moblie will again start and work as before .please brief me about this…

Malik Mohammad Hussain - Reply

Hi Malik,

The phone’s “identity” is based off of the logic board, so switching a logic board will remove the iCloud lock—if the replacement logic board is not locked. Note that the Touch ID hardware is paired each logic board.

Arthur Shi -

o novo também precisa ser desbloqueado para que tudo funcione

Yuri Henrique -

where can i buy the motherboard and Touch ID?

Santiago Cortes - Reply

on aliexpress

Crystal Haugh -

ty, it helped me a lot, i couldn’t do it without the tutorial, my wireless charging coil somehow was bootlooping my phone, ripped it off, and it works

khejtary - Reply

I'm having trouble with the standoff screw on the logic board. It's not going into the screw that it's supposed. Am I supposed to unscrew the screw underneath it first?

Anthony Kee - Reply

Can somebody please send me a link for the repairkit needed to do this :)

Emanuel Djordje - Reply

I would recommend the pro tech toolkit, handles all my needs for repairing.

Sean - Lua Tech -

will cameras both work when motherboard is replaced? is anything else synced with the motherboard that must transfer over

Nick King - Reply

The cameras will still work as they’re not paired with the logic board. The only thing paired is the Touch ID sensor.

Arthur Shi -

Will a logic board out of a iphone 8 work in a 8 plus?

Shawn Noe - Reply

Will a iPhone 8 Plus logic board fit in my old iPhone 7 Plus

to make it have wireless charging ( ik I would have to add the coil but will it work)

Jarrett Gage - Reply

Hi everybody

I would likie to clear one doubt please help me i bought iphone 8 the recently update to ios 15.5 the it's showing problem cellular i connect to the itune and restored but the same problem indicating what should i do please explain if ay oe know this solution.

Ruben

NAVANIDHAN PADMARUBAN - Reply

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