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iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement

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Video Overview

  1. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Pentalobe Screws: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Reply

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Reply

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Reply

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Reply

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Reply

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.

    Ahmad Vaziri -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Reply

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - Reply

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - Reply

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb - Reply

    I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

    Richard - Reply

    Do the screws come out in total?

    YVES THEUGELS - Reply

    They may come out or may not. If you loosen as much as you can and they don't come out you should still be able to pry open the bottom. Once you get the screen off you can then push the screws out from the inside.

    Anthony Falabella -

    Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

    YVES THEUGELS - Reply

    I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

    Anthony Scaminaci - Reply

    At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss - Reply

    I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.

    I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.

    Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss - Reply

    I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.

    I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.

    The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?

    H K - Reply

  2. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Mark your opening picks: step 2, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Mark your opening picks: step 2, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Mark your opening picks: step 2, image 3 of 3
    • If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

    • Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

    • You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

    • Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

    Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

    Sloan Looney - Reply

    Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    what fix kit?

    Meow Purr -

    My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

    WILLIAM HARRIS - Reply

    Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

    AndyF - Reply

    My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

    Gijs Leegwater - Reply

  3. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: step 3, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: step 3, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: step 3, image 3 of 3
    Tool used on this step:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
    Buy
    • The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

    • Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

  4. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 4, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 4, image 3 of 3
    • Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.

    • Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

  5. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 2
    • Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.

    • You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

    • Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.

    • Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next three steps.

    it looks like a....

    Gergely Soki - Reply

  6. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Heat the display: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • The next three steps show how to separate the screen using a suction cup.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth - Reply

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko - Reply

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges - Reply

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B - Reply

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P - Reply

    I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

    Adam Yavner - Reply

    I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

    terrelldoc - Reply

    I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

    Matt Brown - Reply

    I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

    Paul Aron - Reply

    I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

    John Barker - Reply

    Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

    tripmusic - Reply

    The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

    John - Reply

    I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

    John Noble - Reply

    No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

    John Noble - Reply

    Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

    John Noble - Reply

    . . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

    John Noble - Reply

    Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

    Matt C - Reply

  7. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Separate the display: step 7, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Separate the display: step 7, image 2 of 2
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm - Reply

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica - Reply

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson - Reply

    Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

    Bradley Steiner - Reply

    iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

    Matti Haveri - Reply

  8. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 8, image 3 of 3
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - Reply

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - Reply

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman - Reply

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood - Reply

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica - Reply

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard - Reply

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat - Reply

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers - Reply

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk - Reply

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz - Reply

    I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

    Alessio Toniolo - Reply

    Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

    Bradley Steiner - Reply

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

    dantegd - Reply

    The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

    thewrytstf - Reply

    sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

    Andi Tony - Reply

    I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

    Sharaf Kazi - Reply

  9. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 9, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber - Reply

  10. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Screen information: step 10, image 1 of 1
    • There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

    I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

    Gib Jeffries - Reply

  11. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

    No pick in the kit you sent me.

    Ted Cooper - Reply

  12. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 12, image 2 of 2
    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  13. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 13, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 13, image 3 of 3
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers - Reply

    I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

    Adam Yavner - Reply

    This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!

    wendyhoward - Reply

  14. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 2
    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  15. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - Reply

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert - Reply

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys - Reply

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys - Reply

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

    Mangled Jargon - Reply

  16. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Battery Disconnection: step 16, image 1 of 1
    Tool used on this step:
    Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver
    $5.99
    Buy

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Reply

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Reply

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Reply

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Reply

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Reply

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Reply

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Reply

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Reply

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Reply

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Reply

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Reply

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Reply

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Reply

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony - Reply

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Reply

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Reply

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Reply

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Reply

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Reply

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Reply

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Reply

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Reply

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - Reply

    try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.

    David Howard - Reply

    A small tapered triangle file using moderate pressure did the trick for me.

    Jack - Reply

  17. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Reply

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Reply

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Reply

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.

    Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.

    Yishai Sered -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb - Reply

  18. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 18, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 18, image 3 of 3
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Reply

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Reply

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - Reply

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - Reply

    VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.

    It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....

    Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.

    PJM - Reply

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all! Careful removing the lower bracket - mine was stuck to this battery connector, which came up with the bracket. Luckily no cable or connector damage. Be careful. Thank you all!

    dantegd - Reply

    after installing new ifixit battery kit, note the foam on the new battery is thicker than old apple one, managed to remove the old foam and swap to new battery connector, sheild plate now level

    Neil Mills - Reply

  19. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: step 19, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: step 19, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: step 19, image 3 of 3
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

    minimalist - Reply

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Reply

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Reply

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Reply

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - Reply

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - Reply

    Same happened to me. What solution did you find? Could you replace a part to make it work? Thank you!

    Viktoria -

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - Reply

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - Reply

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - Reply

    Echo minimalist’s comment here. Prop the display up and skip to step 19 to save time and remove risk.

    .A. - Reply

    If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..

    It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.

    David Howard - Reply

    I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement

    chrislacey - Reply

    I removed the screen and cable still got ripped during reassembling :(

    Viktoria -

    There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.

    When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.

    Gavin Stokes - Reply

    I’m only reading your very useful comment now, after the exact thing happened to me and my cable got ripped during reassembling phone. Would you be able helping me naming this part, so I can look for a new one? Thank you very much!

    Viktoria -

    thanks gavin. ifixit should have included this piece of info.

    soupamanx -

    Can somebody help me with the name of the part that these cables belong to? The bottom one got ripped during my battery replacement, I need a new one but unsure what to look for.

    Viktoria - Reply

  20. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 20, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 20, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Some phones could be Y000. Apple started using Y000 for these at some point in the middle of the product's lifecycle.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Reply

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Reply

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Reply

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Reply

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Reply

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Reply

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Reply

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Reply

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Reply

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Reply

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Reply

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Reply

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Reply

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Reply

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Reply

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Reply

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai - Reply

    The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…

    That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!

    and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well

    PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!

    Cam F - Reply

    This worked for me! As mentioned use PH000 and apply pressure and then unscrew the screws. They are tiny, adhere to a piece of tape so you don't lose them.

    Rosie J - Reply

  21. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 21, image 2 of 2
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Reply

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Reply

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.

    Roy Mathew - Reply

    After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.

    Ed Scannell - Reply

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    John Daily - Reply

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    Sarah Valencia - Reply

  22. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 1

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Reply

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Reply

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Reply

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If the instructions are followed step by step, then adding the adhesive comes before changing the battery.

    If I had to do it all over again, I'd skip adding the adhesive, because you have to disconnect the battery, plus the two lower display connecters and the front panel sensor assembly connector. It was a nightmare trying to marry the components back together without disturbing the wire prongs, and I don't even want to talk about reinserting the tiny screws that kept twirling around on the tip of the screwdriver as well. It wasn't worth the time or aggravation!!

    If you decide to skip this step, just avoid using your iPhone near water.

    Rosie J - Reply

  23. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Barometric Vent: step 23, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.

    The barometric vent seems to have some foam cushioning towards the bottom of the case? does this get damaged via removal I wonder?

    Phil - Reply

    I’m stucked with the right screw, can't get it out. Any ideas?

    Racecar - Reply

    Edit: I’ve lifted the taptic engine without unplugging it. Removing the battery stripes didn't cause any issues.

    Racecar -

    I didn't see the necessity, so I didn't remove the Barometric Vent since I decided I wasn't going to uplug the Taptic Engine, although I did remove screws for the Taptic Engine, but I didn't unplug it. I believe the point of removing the Taptic Engine is to gain access and space to pull the adhesive strips off the battery. If you attempt and are able to remove the adhesive off the battery, then I believe it's NOT necessary to remove the Barometric Vent nor the Taptic Engine.

    Rosie J - Reply

  24. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 24, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 24, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the vent.

  25. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Taptic Engine: step 25, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Taptic Engine: step 25, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.

    I believe the point of removing the Taptic Engine is to gain access and space to pull the adhesive strips off the battery. If you attempt and are able to remove the adhesive off the battery, then I believe it's NOT necessary to remove the Barometric Vent nor the Taptic Engine.

    Rosie J - Reply

  26. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

    My screws are stripped here. Please help, I don’t know what to do!

    Salva Alcón - Reply

    My screws are also stripped here, but the phone has never been opened before!

    Kyle Webb - Reply

    Hey Salva and Kyle, sorry to hear about all these stripped screws! For help with removing them, check out our guide.

    Adam O'Camb - Reply

    I had a new phone. These screws were missing when I disassembled it. Not sure what QC Apple has, but it ain’t great. If they’re missing it’s not the end of the world. You can just disable taptic touch.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    I had my 7 battery replaced by an Apple Authorized dealer. Around 2 weeks after the taptic engine started to make a !&&* of a noise when it was activated (sounded as if it was loose)… then 1 month after that… it stopped working completely. fast forward 8-9 months later, the battery they had replaced just wasn’t holding its charge anymore (phone was spending more time plugged in charging and depleting very quickly = full charge lasted about 1-2 hours). Having bought the ifixit battery and have gotten as far as this step, I could see that all three of the 1.6mm screws were just floating around in the compartment and the taptic engine was just being held on via it’s ribbon lead. WTF?! Screws aren’t stripped and I managed to fix it in again. Why would these screws be floating around like this??

    Phil - Reply

    another person checking in here to assure you that, if you find a stripped screw (or more) at this step, you’re not crazy. I have one as well! I’m in dis-effing-belief. This phone has NEVER been serviced by anyone, and was allegedly brand new when purchased.

    To the person suggesting a dremel tool to remedy this…. *blink**Blink*. Are you kidding me right now? *slap*. Vibrating the !&&* out of all those sensitive parts - not to mention what one slip could end in your phone being effectively sawed in half.

    Cunning Stunt - Reply

  27. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 27, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  28. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Speaker Assembly: step 28, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the Phillips screw securing the Wi-Fi diversity antenna to the rear case:

    • One 3.2 mm screw

  29. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 2.0 mm screw

  30. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 30, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 30, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 30, image 3 of 3
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.

    Hey may i ask…what is the use of both of the antenna cables?i just opened my iphone 7 plus and i found both of the cables are broken.if both of the cables are broken,what does it effect on my iphone?

    Mohd Wazirul - Reply

    Speaker and antenna?

    Keah Smith - Reply

    I'm missing the black thing from my antenna and I have no signal, could this be the reason why? Is the black thing insulation?

    Keah Smith - Reply

    These doodads are a pain to route and reconnect. I probably spent 15 minutes just on this part of reassembly. One of them is connected to the new part. It won’t have the soft grommet on top.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    One of these came away from its base. The one nearest the battery.

    When I reassemble it I’m thinking just a bit of glue at the side once re attached to base, so lomg as it touches the base contacts?

    Any comments?

    ANDREW - Reply

    I am having the worst time imaginable trying to reconnect the antenna cable coming from the lightening connector assembly to the logic board. It’s barely long enough and will not snap into place. There’s a minature gold pin sticking up from a circular gold ring on the logic board and I must have spent an hour on this one step. The antenna end has the female end. Everything else went well. The antenna connector from the old lightening assembly will connect relatively quickly. I’m beginning to think the new antenna connector female end might be defective. I’m ready to cut the black antenna wire and try to solder in a longer piece using the old connector assembly. Any ideas? HELP !!!

    David Sandrof - Reply

    These can be tricky to reconnect. I found the best way is to hold the connector with tweezers and use the point of a spudger on top of the connector in the other hand. Slowly moving the connector with the tweezers while applying gentle pressure with the spudger, you will eventually feel the connector and its seat line up and you can snap into place. Don’t force it, when it is lined up it is easy so you have to patiently work on aligning it.

    David Ege - Reply

    please say which antenna is which, impossible to know now

    Mitchell Thompson - Reply

    Tip that helped me: remove the standoff screw next to the clip before derouting (or, upon reassembly, rerouting) the cables. This gives you a lot more space to work with! (Note: I only did this on reassembly, so I don’t know if there are any gotchas on disassembly.)

    T Murrills - Reply

    Please pay close attention to witch one goes where or take a picture bad mistake made.

    michael - Reply

  31. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 31, image 2 of 2
    • Use tweezers to derout the antenna cables from their bracket on the logic board.

  32. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 32, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 32, image 2 of 2
    • Use tweezers to remove the antenna cables from the clip on the speaker.

    • Make sure to grasp the cable near the clip in order to avoid damaging the cable.

    They pull off to the side.

    Ark - Reply

    This was an oddly challenging step, lifting the speaker slightly from the top end allowed me to slide the tips of one side of the tweezers in between the cable and the speaker, prying it out rather than grabbing and pulling which feels dangerous.

    Jesse de Vries -

    They break very easily

    Josh Brito - Reply

    difficile a retirer. Les 2 tables sont clipsés sur le haut parleur. Il m’a bien fallu 10 - 15 minutes pour arriver a les retirer. Aucune astuce a vous donner, a part de la persévérance.

    Guigui - Reply

    One cable seems to stay attached to the speaker. Don’t try to pry it off the speaker! This is shown in the video but not in these photos.

    Cynthia Lamb - Reply

  33. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 33, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 33, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to slide the speaker assembly towards the logic board and off of the rear case.

  34. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 34, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the speaker.

    Reassembly tip: after aligning the speaker with the bottom edge, instead of lowering the speaker into place, keep the speaker raised slightly and push the cables back into the clip (which were removed in step 28) with the flat end of a spudger. In doing so, though, make sure that the cable from the lightning connector piece remains above the flat metal piece protruding out the left side of the speaker.

    T Murrills - Reply

  35. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, SIM Card: step 35, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, SIM Card: step 35, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, SIM Card: step 35, image 3 of 3
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force. However, ensure the eject tool is properly aligned beforehand as to not damage the eject mechanism inside the phone.

    • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    Received a sim card tray from IFIXIT for my iphone 7. I can’t seem to get it to close flush no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?

    AJ Dereume - Reply

    Why would it require a significant amount of force? Is it because the iPhone 7 is water resistant? When I removed my tray it was like it was stuck in goop inside the phone and the tray had a glue like sticky substance on it? It did not ‘click’ back in smoothly like my other iPhones, I had to push it against the ‘goop’. Is this normal for iPhone 7??

    Rebecca Diakun - Reply

    I used the tip of the super pointy tweezers, and it worked well.

    Cynthia Lamb - Reply

  36. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Logic Board Connectors: step 36, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Logic Board Connectors: step 36, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.

  37. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 37, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 37, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

    I couldn’t get my 1.3mm screw out. It’s not required thankfully as you can just bend the cover up and out of the way to complete the rest of the steps.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    i removed them with PH000

    Flavien - Reply

  38. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 38, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the bracket.

  39. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 39, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 39, image 2 of 2
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.

    There is one Step missing before removing the flash light cable: Remove Camera cable, right?

    Achim Breidenbach - Reply

    I broke this and can’t find it on amazon. Is it part of the volume control flash connector? If not, can you send me a link on where to find this connector,…and possible instructions on how to replace?

    Daniel Buhler - Reply

  40. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 40, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.

    these are too tight cant get rid off them from y000

    Narendra Mane - Reply

    ok with Y000 from pro tool kit

    Flavien - Reply

    Had to push down to get the Y000 in place

    Cynthia Lamb - Reply

  41. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 41, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 41, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the upper cable bracket.

  42. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 42, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 42, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.

    Este cable q funciona tiene porfavor lo desconecte y funciona normal

    Johnny Bolaños - Reply

  43. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 43, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 43, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the four Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    I lost one of these 1.2 mm screws. Will that affect the signal reception?

    Bethany Knaebel - Reply

    There is another screw connecting the antenna to the case.

    tbaiello - Reply

    How do you open the 1.7mm screw? LOL

    Kyle Victor - Reply

    The screws are not threading in for some reason. I measured the screws to be exactly 1.2mm with a caliper.

    Loopy75 - Reply

    Yes there are 4 x screw 3 x 1.2mm and 1x 1.7mm securing the antenna to the case

    ANDREW - Reply

    Yes : 4 screws and not 3 !!

    sirthomasnardin -

  44. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 44, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 44, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the top left antenna.

    ** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

    iBroke - Reply

  45. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 45, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    Möglicherweise muss man den Kleber zuerst entfernen!

    Evan Winter - Reply

  46. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 46, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 46, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the bracket.

    What's this bracket called

    Cris Velasquez - Reply

    %#*@, lost that part during the job, thought it’d be alright without it. Couple days later figured out NFC doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas on where to get this part from, colleagues?

    azowux - Reply

  47. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 47, image 1 of 1
    Tool used on this step:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49
    Buy
    • Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    What bit is this? The link doesn’t use the same name.

    Mike Moran - Reply

    I didn’t even have an eyeglass repair kit flathead, so I hit the end of a paperclip with a hammer to make a flathead, and it works!

    Ark - Reply

    I hate getting the deep into a repair to find there’s a tool missing. This bit should be part of the toolkit!

    Ark - Reply

    Its in the toolkit now. Looks like a Philips head but up close the end is squared off with a point in the middle.

    Jesse de Vries -

    I received two boxes - one box contained the repair part, the other was the tool kit. I only opened the tool kit before disassembling the phone. The standoff screwdriver bit was not in there. Neither was the guitar pick. I used a real guitar pick and a small standard screwdriver from my toolbox. When I was ready to reassemble, I opened the repair part box and guess what was in there - the standoff screwdriver bit and guitar pick. So, I guess if you just order the part it will come with (at least) those two tools. The tool kit contains tweezers, suction cup, three screwdriver bits (tri-point, pentalobe, and phillips) and screwdriver handle, a long black spudger with a flat end and a pointy end, and a smaller, thicker spudger with a wide, flat ends.

    bronyaur - Reply

    The flat end of the spudger works a treat too.

    Robert Trammel - Reply

    Thank you, bronyar. Since there is a box labeled “Repair Tools”, I never would have looked in the parts box for tools. I was able to use the standoff tool to takie the phone apart, not just to put it back together.

    Mike Ruzicka - Reply

    I used standoff bit for iPhone from my pro tool kit

    Flavien - Reply

  48. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 48, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 48, image 2 of 2
    • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

    I accidentally broke the grounding bracket, is it very important to get a new one to replace? as I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere

    Mustifa shah - Reply

    I also broke it. Did your phone work after?

    Did you find a replacement?

    Ben Schorr - Reply

    Did your phone work ?

    Emin -

    also broken does it work without?

    Emin - Reply

    I broke mine while doing this step. A bit confusing. You’re just supposed to bend it out the way, not pull on it entirely. Will the phone still work without this?

    Chandler Forrest - Reply

    $@$*, i broke the grounding bracket

    Z1xus - Reply

    I just didnt bend this one.. Ill tell you how it went

    Lauren Campbell - Reply

  49. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Lightning Connector Assembly: step 49, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Lightning Connector Assembly: step 49, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.

    This is ‘hinged’ on the battery side.

    Eugene Gardner - Reply

    For reassembly start here and work forwards. This connection is critical to successful placement of the lightning connector assembly which is glued to the back of the case.

    rushbc - Reply

  50. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 50, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following screws:

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Three 2.2 mm standoff screws

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an [linked product missing or disabled: IF145-343] and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    The lowest standoff screw is different than others, so be careful when reinstaling them

    dominik.balasko - Reply

  51. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 51, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 51, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  52. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 52, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 52, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

    Assurez-vous à cette étape (au moment du remontage) que le connecteur de l'antenne (que vous voyez à l’étape 35) est bien par dessus votre carte mère et qu’l n’est pas passé dessous !!!

    Laurent LABRUNIE - Reply

  53. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 53, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 53, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 53, image 3 of 3
    • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

    Reassembly note: Remember to tuck the logic board under the logic board grounding bracket that we loosened in step #44.

    Ark - Reply

    Remember to remove the SIM card eject plunger (see step 47) or you may loose it seeing as there is no longer anything to stop it dropping out.

    Alex Thompson - Reply

    stick a small bit of sellotape over the sim card plunger hole to prevent it dropping out.

    ANDREW - Reply

    Reassembly note:

    Peel up a couple centimeters of the lightening port and plug it in to the logic board *before* seating the logic board. Doing this, you can perfectly line up the connector and hold it to the board as you jimmy everything in to place. This makes the hardest part of the job a no-brainer.

    jason4 - Reply

  54. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 54, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the 2.9 mm Phillips screw from the lightning connector.

    Haven’t had any issues with any of the screws so far. Nothing stuck or even threatening to strip. Could it be that people are using the wrong driver bit and getting into trouble that way? You regularly have to swap between tri and normal 4 blade Phillips heads, best to double check each time.

    Jesse de Vries - Reply

    Thread the screw through the spring contact before screwing it back in for an easier reassembly.

    jason4 - Reply

  55. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 55, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 55, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the spring contact from the lightning connector.

    What’s the purpose of this contact? Is it just a ground?

    Josh M - Reply

    Not sure but dont forget to place it

    Josh Brito - Reply

    I forfait it, watt I have to search for buy it

    TONY IDEA - Reply

    Scary thought - did you manage to find one?

    Jesse de Vries -

  56. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 56, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the lightning connector cable in place.

  57. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 57, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 57, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 57, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case.

    This step makes the whole guide invaluable! Those sneaky devils hide the screws perfectly!

    Ron Stanford - Reply

    I just ripped one.Never did a regular 7 thee only iPhone I’ve never done.Im pissd.Not sure if I should just pull another from a good phone or hook it up and see if it still works it looks like there grounding screws smh it’s only because for 2 years I had a used 7 housing I always bump into when going through my parts and whoever had that before me also ripped it but in both spots.So when the charge port wouldn’t come up I broke it smh

    Vegeta Barrett - Reply

  58. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 58, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the rear case.

    What are these connectors 4? I noticed a tiny chip next to the one on the right if you're looking at the phone face-to-face and on the backside of the charging port is some heavy circuitry for the left side... If the one on the right is broken what can a person expect their phone to do differently? Is this connector on the right hand side of the charging port attributed to anything specifically? Will my phone operate as normal without this?

    billybarter - Reply

    It should be noted that these two 1.3 mm Phillips screws are different from the other 1.3 mm Philips screws removed in steps 16, 25, 33, and 41. All those screws are identical, but these two have a slightly wider shank so they won’t fit in the others’ bores.

    Matthew Sweger - Reply

    I dropped one of these screws, never to be found again. The replacement port doesn’t work for me now - would this missing screw be the culprit, or is it something else?

    A5BXL - Reply

    I'm not able to remove these screws with the screwdriver Phillips that was used throughout the rest of this repair. How do I remove them safely?

    tollesonuniversity - Reply

  59. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 59, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 59, image 2 of 2
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to separate the two microphones from the bottom of the rear case.

    When reassembling, the right microphone (the one on the left in the above picture) has a metal back that has two alignment tabs. One is on the bottom left, and if you just try to push the microphone down into position it will be held up by the tab. The tab is black plastic and not real apparent unless you have some decent light on it.

    bronyaur - Reply

    Everything popped out when I disassembled mine. I was able to get the spacers apart after the lightning connector was out. My kit came with new ones, but I just used the old ones. As the above comment states, there are alignment tabs on each one that are hard to see. Be sure to use the adhesive strips that come in the kit.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    May I suggest not bothering to separate the microphone , and thus avoid dmage, ..juts release the rectangular foam as a complete assembly, its just stuck to the bottom of the case each side. less risky than trying to prize off the micro phones.

    issues so far

    Ive had one small glitch so far …one the anntenas, the one nearest the battery, came off its base. Im hoping to just reconnect to base to make a contact and secure after with a spot of glue each side…

    ANDREW - Reply

    This step was surprisingly hard - the plastic guitar pick was a bit finer and made it easier. Perhaps some heating helped as well?

    Jesse de Vries - Reply

    I agree with Andrew - just taken the foam bits out and either replace with the new ones that come with the kit or swap over. My tip would be don’t reinsert them until you’ve got the lightning connector in place when reversing steps, as they get caught otherwise.

    Donald Waters - Reply

  60. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 60, image 1 of 1
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing Lightning connector cable, making it easier to remove.

    • Use a hairdryer or reheat your iOpener to heat the lower edge of the phone.

    • Wait for about a minute, allowing the adhesive to warm up before proceeding to the next step.

  61. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 61, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 61, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 61, image 3 of 3
    • Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case.

  62. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 62, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 62, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 62, image 3 of 3
    • Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.

  63. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 63, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 63, image 2 of 2
    • Continue to slide the pick underneath the lightning connecter assembly.

    • Stop sliding the pick once it passes the battery.

    Could I use something like an hotel card instead?

    Kenneth Wang - Reply

  64. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 64, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 64, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 64, image 3 of 3
    • Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the assembly towards the lightning connector.

    • Stop sliding the pick when it reaches the lightning connector.

  65. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 65, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 65, image 2 of 2
    • Gently pull the lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case.

  66. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 66, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 66, image 2 of 2
    • Slide a pick below the lightning connector to further separate the lightning connector assembly from the rear case.

    • Continue to slide the pick until the lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the rear case.

    Getting this thing out really wasn’t that big of a deal. Of note, if you’re also replacing the batter this is a good spot to put the new one in.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

  67. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 67, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 67, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 67, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the lightning connector assembly.

    • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:

    • Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.

    • Make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned so that the two white dots on the iPhone's rear case show through the two circular cutouts in the Lightning flex cable. If they don't, the flex cable will remain misaligned and you won't be able to reconnect it to its socket on the logic board.

    I'd go so far as to say line the holes up first before you secure the rest of that part. There is no room for error here!

    Jesse de Vries - Reply

    Totally agree, it is absolutely paramount that it has to be perfect, as my three attempts at re-assembly can attest to!

    Donald Waters - Reply

    I said this on step 49, but since you guys are mentioning it here, DEFINITELY plug the lightening port in to the logic board before seating the logic board. Then your exact placement doesn’t matter, as long as it’s relatively okay.

    jason4 - Reply

  68. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 68, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 68, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 68, image 3 of 3
    • A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.

    • The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.

    It would be nice to have tips for the best way to actually apply the adheasives on the lightning assembly to beat maintain proper positioning. Otherwise, great guide!

    Casey Morton - Reply

    agreed!! I am staring at these tiny adhesive pieces and a bit stumped!!!

    info - Reply

    So.. my new lightning assembly had a yellow piece of plastic over the right microphone. Wasn’t sure if it was blocking the opening, so I removed it. Found a small hole in the plastic. Anyone else get one like that?

    doubt it will affect it’s function, and since the old one was bad…. can’t be worse than it was before.

    i’ll double back once it’s back together.

    Dean Allan Land - Reply

    Plastic liners—yellow or otherwise—should definitely be peeled off and discarded before installing any new parts. You done good. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The gasket is a pain. I’m not even convinced I did it right. The guide stops here and lets you figure out the installation on your own. You can screw yourself if the new connector isn’t placed just right as the connector won’t align. Use the old adhesive areas as guides. I had to take my new part out and install it a second time to get the cable connected. I imagine the usual error is it is too high. The connector ribbon should bend down toward the case just above the connector. Seriously, millimeters count here.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    I reconnected the battery to when putting the new sealer in then disconnected it before I reconnected the screen. New batteries come with a charge. It’s best to connect that last.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    It would be good to have some additional steps explaining how to install the Speaker and Microphone Mesh Set that comes with the kit. I did appreciate that it was included but it took some fiddling around (and almost ruining the seals) before I figured out where the parts needed to go and still I ended up with 2 tiny black gaskets, that looked similar to the microphone gakets, that I couldn’t place and ended up not using. If they were important, I’ll find out soon I guess :D.

    Wimar Schippers - Reply

    all this is great and all, but how do I reinstall all the stuff I took out of the phone. Am I seposed to scroll backward step for step from 64 to 1?

    yosef Teklezgi - Reply

    Amazing guide thanks so much! It would be great to show how to reattach the new lightning connector including the mesh bits etc as this is very hard to work backwards through particularly as it looks a bit different to the original

    Donald Waters - Reply

    E muito demorado, mas pelo guia da para fazer direitinho.

    Darlan Pereira da Silva - Reply

    Waste of two days, the new lightning connector was not recognized by the phone - it did not charge, but the speakers and mic worked fine. I then took it apart again and made sure everything was installed correctly.

    Only now, the touch screen no longer works.

    So I am back where I was was with a brick.

    H K - Reply

    Awesome guide - my iphone 7 is like new again. BUT reassembly is definitely not simply disassembly in reverse. I found it very necessary to first connect the new lightning connector assembly to the logic board (Step 49) and then place and attach the logic board (Step 50) with the new assembly underneath before sticking the lightning connector assembly into place. If you first adhere the lightning connector assembly, there is zero chance that the logic board connector will be in the right place for connection to the logic board, which is screwed into place and has no freedom of movement. Also reassembly is twice as hard and takes much longer than disassembly.

    rushbc - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Don't forget to reapply the display adhesive before reinstalling the display.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 7 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

273 other people completed this guide.

Scott Havard

Member since: 06/27/16

49,564 Reputation

31 Guides authored

53 Comments

The old ones were so easy! Why did Apple have to put the thing under the board!!!???

Christopher Crawford - Reply

Prob to discourage people from replacing it themselves instead of sending to apple

Elwen Omara -

I dunno. It was a pain, but surprisingly I got mine fixed. When I took it to the apple store they flat out told me that they wouldn’t fix it at all. I couldn’t even send it in to them. Something about no communication with the logic board and they refused to touch it. Thankfully the guides are detailed enough for goofs like me to be successful.

Ray Bieze -

Ho un problema dopo aver installato il nuovo connettore. Quando l’iphone e scarico, inserendo il cavo, appare sul display il simbolo batteria. Una volta acceso il cavo non viene più segnalato e la ricarica non continua. Cosa può essere?

Fabio - Reply

Salve ho lo stesso problema,qual è il problema?

lorenzo Serra -

Can I use this one for the Iphone 8 too ? I havent found one for the Iphone 8.

Manuel Gatti - Reply

@manulkamul Not sure if you mean the guide or the part, but in both cases the answer is, unfortunately, no—the 8 is a different animal.

Jeff Suovanen -

broke the logic board grounding bracket on step44.. any way to replace the whole thing or fix it? the end part what you have to lift came off. thanks!!

ietse venhuizen - Reply

I followed this guide and the microphone is still not working. Is it possible I have a bad part?

This is not my first technology fix, although first through here, and first iPhone 7.

Kristi Buysse - Reply

Great guide, thanks for posting. Successfully changed out my lightning connector/microphone assembly.

Separate issue, the replacement part charging and microphone functions work OK, but taptic engine no longer works. (cheap eBay purchase),

Small trade off to actually be able to talk on phone calls now.

Thanks again!

ohendo - Reply

Replaced it and now the charging port and mic don’t appear to be working. However, WiFi is working. Go figure. Any suggestions?

Noah Hayling - Reply

Same problem

Dirk Remie -

hi there! first of all i want to say thank you, i do all my repairs through you guys, it truly helps! however, i do have an issue. after replacing the port and re assembled, my phone says unable to activate cause it needs an update, i restored it through itunes and it said unable to update because the update information could not be obtained. Im now sure if this was a problem before i replaced the port or not cause the iphone was not working. any information would be great! thanks so much!

dannythomasbooking13 - Reply

I have an iPhone 7 and a 7 plus, does anyone know if it would be possible to take the connector from my 7 and put it into my 7 plus? I don’t want to start the process just to find out it doesn’t fit or something like it’s too small for the 7 plus?

Mekai - Reply

Hi Mekai,

The parts are slightly different, and the iPhone 7 connector will most likely be too small to fit in your 7 plus. Here are some product links (with pictures) for the iPhone 7 and iPhone 7 Plus assemblies.

Arthur Shi -

Hello Mr.Harvard,

I recently replaced a lightning assembly on a iphone 7 plus and although I didn't feel to have run into any incidents, when I finished assembling everything, my phone stayed on “searching" for a good while and than just stayed saying ,”no service" when in fact it had no connection issues before the lightning port was replaced. What can I try to do to resolve this?

Amador Sandoval - Reply

Hello Amador,

It sounds like an antenna issue. Make sure the antenna cables are properly connected in Step 26. Also check to make sure all connectors are seated.

Arthur Shi -

Arthur,

Thank you very much for the response. After more troubleshooting, I was able to determine that the replacement batch I received of lightning port replacements was the issue. Once I used a part from a different batch, the network issues were resolved. Thank you!

Amador Sandoval - Reply

hi, after performing the procedure when the phone is switched on, it remains stuck on the apple. I thought it was a problem of the replacement taken on ebay, so I reassembled the old connector but does the same thing! Help me

Michele Rossi - Reply

This is probs because there is a connector not connectie properly, I had the same problem. When I made sure I connector everything properly it worked again. There is a chance the connector on the logicboard is broken.

Dirk Remie -

I just replaced my charging port on a iPhone 7+ and it still won’t charge. Any suggestions?

Willy - Reply

Y screw tip will work just as well as an iPhone StandOut.

Jonathan - Reply

Your guide was thorough and got me through the difficult process of replacing an IPhone 7 charging port. I used labeled ziplock baggies for each step; attempting this complicated of a repair without labeled baggies would not have ended well. The whole effort took me about 4 hours, but the phone is back from the junk pile and works perfectly!

Jim Taksum - Reply

Thank you! I just completed this repair in about two hours following this guide. It takes patience, but you can do it. A lighted headband magnifier is a HUGE help when I work on these kinds of things. Thanks again to ifixit for the quality parts, tools, and guides.

bronyaur - Reply

Dopo aver rimontato tutto su un iPhone 7 tutto funziona perfettamente ma il telefono nn riesce ad agganciare la rete dal info generali riesce cmq a darmi tutte le info incluso IMEI e operatore della SIM a questo punto può essere il componente sostituito difettoso o devo pensare alla scheda madre guasta?

Angelo Grillo - Reply

for all who’ve done these repairs, we have to All Hate & Love Apple at the same time, Hate because they do this $@$* on purpose just to be dicks, and love because they keep us in business. Sometimes I think I’d rather not be in business just because it makes people have to pay for something that can be made to be an easy fix for people… This is ALL Steve Jobs Fault Visionary and Dick to boot oh and pirate not the good kind.

Work - Reply

Awesome guide as usual from ifixit .. Love you guys :)

Mostafa Mohammed - Reply

Ok… so this guide is incomplete based on the repair kit I purchased. There is a bag of seals that comes with the lightning connector assembly, and most are not show in the instructions.

I’m trying to figure out where they all go…. and I’ll try and update this as I do.

Dean Allan Land - Reply

@land08033 If you’re referring to these, it looks like they were added to the kit more recently, after the guide was published. None of them are necessary for the iPhone to function, but if installed correctly they may help maintain a higher level of dust and/or water resistance after the repair. Thanks for your comment!

Jeff Suovanen -

Great guide! This task is difficult but doable if you are careful and patient.

Hamza Taoufik Benchekroun - Reply

Thanks for the great write up, my phone is working again now!

Phil Surtees - Reply

Ciao, ho seguito la stessa procedura per sostituire il connettore di ricarica. Completato tutto, all’accensione l’Iphone si ferma al simbolo della mela e non va avanti. Perché? Avete esperienze in merito? Grazie

frimpa - Reply

Bonjour,

J’ai bien suivi le tutoriel et mon soucis est que quand le iPhone est en charge, je peux prendre une petite châtaigne électrique en touchant légère ment le iPhone.

D’ou pourrais venir ce problème de terre ?

Merci

Thibault Cadet - Reply

my connector seems too short to connect to connect to the reciever. as seen on step 45. Ive tried to slide the board but it doesnt seem to help.

cooldudefj - Reply

First iPhone repair. Excellent instructions! Took me about 2 hours and everything works great!

Jacob Seay - Reply

Phew, took a while to do this, and I am pretty sure I did it correctly, but the phone is now stuck on the apple screen… any ideas?

James Herndon - Reply

Hey James,

Try these  basic troubleshooting steps, and see if that would do it. If that doesn’t work out, please post a question on our iPhone 7 Answers forum.

Arthur Shi -

What does new antenna connect to, the on that comes from charger connector

beatricemorriso - Reply

It looks like it should connect to the antenna connectors here. I can’t tell for sure which one it is supposed to connect to—there are two antenna cables. It looks as though one cable has one silver grounding clip, and another has two. Whichever has one silver grounding clip should connect to the top connector (closer to the top of the phone).

Arthur Shi -

Hola, despues de remplazar la pieza, se encendía y estaba constantemente la manzana. Volví a rehacer todos los pasos y he conseguido que se encienda pero a los 2 minutos se reinicia solo constantemente. A que se debe? como lo puedo solucionar?

Gracias

redrired - Reply

very well done!

mjma - Reply

Perfect!! only had trouble finding the right place for all the new patches in the bottom, thanks!!

Joao Firmino - Reply

Followed the detailed instructions. Did the battery at the same time. Worked like a champ! Thx.

Bill Mancinelli - Reply

Hello, anyone knows which antena goes on top and which down. Does it matter? Tsnks

ferrert - Reply

It’s the first time I have used ifixit to repair a phone. The steps were very clear and my phone even worked when I was finished! I was repairing a faulty microphone.

Thank you very much.

Bill McDonald - Reply

when I reassemble the two antennas, should the speaker one be put in the hole above or in the hole below?

the_speed91 - Reply

Hi, I had my charging port replaced and the tech reprogrammed my phone (he said he needed to to make the phone work). I’m super stressed bc I lost photos from my dad’s funeral (two weeks ago) . Anyone know of a way to recover data if I didn’t have a chance to back it up? I’m really heartbroken right now.

Miss Qiiqii - Reply

I slightly misaligned the thing and it bent the connector vertical connector when I tried to re-attach. This is a real tricky one :/

Ryan Boyd - Reply

It took me 5 hrs to replace the lightning assembly. But… I took my time, carefully marking screw size and location(s). Where I ran into the greatest time consumption was rerouting the 2 antenna cables back onto the Logic board and getting the assembly to properly seat into its proper location. When I lined up the two white dots with the holes on the assembly , I could not get the port to properly seat,. When I tried the opposite direction-seating the port end of the assembly then laying it down to line up the holes with the white dots, it would not line up, it was like 2 mm too long.In order to get it to fit, I seated the port end, then lifted up the middle of the assembly and made like a “hill” , got the two holes to line up perfectly with the two white dots. then very gently pressed down on the middle to secure it to the case. The phone is now charging properly and could not be more satisfied with the results.

Jeffrey - Reply

Wow! Thank you Scott.

That was maximum difficulty. It actually took me 3 hours hahaha.

So much fun. It didn't solve my non-functioning mic problem unfortunately.

My 7 is running perfectly except that. And it stopped functioning after the iOS 15 update.

Best

iLex

Alex Campbell - Reply

Hi, I followed the guide as stated and also did a battery replacement, now the phone won't start up anymore. I tried connecting the original parts back and the old battery worked for a minute and than ran out of battery. No neither the old charging port nor the new one is charging neither of the two batteries. What can I check and are there any parts on the logicboard potentially broken?

Cheers Konrad

Konrad G - Reply

Did the repair now no power or charging is happening no damaged cables. Reseated everything aslo connected a new battery still nothing!?

5epmgllc - Reply

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