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Introduction

Use this guide to remove and replace the battery in your iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

  1. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement, iOpener Heating: step 1, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement, iOpener Heating: step 1, image 2 of 2
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Reply

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Reply

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Reply

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Reply

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Reply

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Reply

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Reply

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Reply

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Reply

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Reply

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Reply

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Reply

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Reply

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Reply

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Reply

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Reply

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Reply

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Reply

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Reply

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Reply

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Reply

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Reply

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Reply

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Reply

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Reply

  2. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Reply

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Reply

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Reply

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Reply

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Reply

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Reply

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Reply

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Reply

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Reply

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Reply

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Reply

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Reply

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Reply

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Reply

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Reply

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Reply

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Reply

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Reply

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Reply

  3. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 3, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Reply

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Reply

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Reply

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Reply

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Reply

  4. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement, Alternate iOpener heating method: step 4, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement, Alternate iOpener heating method: step 4, image 2 of 2
    • If you don't have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.

    • Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.

    • Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.

    • Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.

    • Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.

    • Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.

    • Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Reply

    Use a hair dryer

    Edited To the max - Reply

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Reply

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Reply

  5. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement, LCD Shield Plate: step 5, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement, LCD Shield Plate: step 5, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement, LCD Shield Plate: step 5, image 3 of 3
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

    Need some extra instruction on how to handle a truly shattered glass. There was only one spot that the suction cup would even hold on the whole screen - top right, and even with tape there is very little structure to drive a pick under. how do you handle that?

    Greg Crawford - Reply

  6. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

    • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

    Can you explain how using the iOpener ? That's can be great !

    Matthieu Nasri - Reply

    The iOpener used is essentially a bag of gel, which you put in the microwave for 30 seconds. You lay this against the screen edges to transfer heat and loosen up the glue.

    You could also use a hot-air blower with a re-work station but that's up to you. Mine worked well up to 150°C

    Sam Attwood -

    what about heating a cloth bag filled with rice in the microwave? Would that work?

    SkipR - Reply

    That might work! Rice is less likely to get, and stay, hot enough. But it can't hurt to try! Just be sure you're being patient and letting it really warm up before you pry. People have had luck double bagging a washcloth dipped in very hot water, too.

    Sam Goldheart -

  7. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 7, image 3 of 3
    • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

    • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

    I'm having trouble getting the suction cup to stay connected to the screen to pull it. It just isn't creating a seal no matter how flat I make it. I thought maybe the crack was causing it, so I tried tape. I originally didn't put tape on it because it wasn't losing glass. The tape made it worse of creating a seal. Any advice?

    William - Reply

    After following instructions to cover cracked glass with packing tape, the suction cup won’t adhere at all. Not even a little bit. Any suggestions?

    Brian Tate - Reply

    I had that exact problem when I fixed an Iphone 8. What I did was that I put some ducktape where the suction cup would be placed. That worked for me. That’s of course is if you where doing to replace the glass anyway.

    Pontus Sennerstam -

    I had a screen on an iPad 4 that was so shattered that I literally had to spend 2.5 hours picking every single piece of glass out with tweezers after pulling the few larger pieces off with tape on them. Sometimes you need a lot of patience to be successful. The final cleaning out of the sticky tape along the sides is also very important once the glass is removed. Or the new screen will stick out an/or not go in neatly.

    Michael Burger - Reply

  8. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 8, image 3 of 3
    • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

    • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

    Could I use some guitar picks? If so, what gauge (thickness) of a picks should I get?

    SkipR - Reply

    I'm not sure what the correct balance of thickness to strength you'd need, maybe try a couple different types. The idea is to be thin and fit into the smallest gap, but if it gets bogged down in adhesive, it needs to be strong enough to push through. Be sure to use heat and be patient!

    Sam Goldheart -

    i have to use a blow dryer and pack that came with the replacement is there anything i could do to make the adhesive more hot?

    Ace of Spades - Reply

  9. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 1
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

    Well if you want to save some time and your screen is shattered just pry up one corner either left or right side at the top and tear the whole screen off going down towards the home button but do not completely remove the screen there is a wire connecting the digitizer to the board inside but tearing off the screen will skip you down to step 29 :-) i seen this in a video and saved me about an hour after the fact because my screen was cracking as i was inserting the blue picks so i ripped the whole screen off and used some adhesive remover to get off all the extra goo leftover

    Chris Grayden - Reply

  10. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 10, image 3 of 3
    • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

    I found that all the following step were much easier for me using a heat gun while keeping the pull on the screen with the suction cup. Basically heat up a section, put the suction cup on, keep pulling the screen upwards on that side, while using the heat gun to continuously heat along the side. It came nicely off, one or two inches at a time. Once I had a whole side up, I just put some of the picks in to keep it up and continued along the side, heating, pulling, heating pulling. This obviously only works if the screen is not totally shattered. Mine only had two cracks.

    Michael Burger - Reply

  11. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

  12. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 12, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 12, image 3 of 3
    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

    • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

  13. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 1
    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

  14. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 14, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  15. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

  16. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 16, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 16, image 3 of 3
    • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

  17. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 17, image 3 of 3
    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

    • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

  18. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 18, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 18, image 3 of 3
    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

    If you have the LTE there is a cable on the right upper side! There’s no mention of this in this guide even though it’s for the LTE. I found out after the fact when I saw I cut the cable with the pick.

    Will Lyon - Reply

    Will Lyon, you may want to look again. This is the guide for the WiFi version.

    mcr4u2 -

  19. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 1
    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

  20. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 20, image 2 of 2
    • Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.

    • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

  21. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 21, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 21, image 3 of 3
    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    This is not an LTE ipad mini 3, it is a wifi ipad mini 3

    lordofmordor - Reply

  22. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 22, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 22, image 3 of 3
    • Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

  23. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 1
    • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

    • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

    For those who are replacing a severely shattered front panel, be aware that there are two smart cover magnets attached to the interior side of the front panel that you will need later. Keep an eye out for them (see steps 49 and 50 below for pictures of what these tiny magnets look like) so that you don't have to go digging through the debris later.

    Jeff G - Reply

  24. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 24, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 24, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 24, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

    • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

    • There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:

    • Antennas

    • Home button cavity

    • Digitizer cable

    • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

  25. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 25, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 25, image 3 of 3
    • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

    • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

    • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

  26. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 26, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 26, image 3 of 3
    • Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.

    • Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.

    • Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.

    • Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

    Do NOT insert the pick much deeper to the right of the home button, you can easily damage the fingerprint ID chip.

    kimhoover - Reply

    There is no fingerprint id chip in an iPad mini 2 (retina)

    blakebest -

    Be very careful in the vicinity and to the right of the home button. Only insert the very tip of the pick (similar to the instructions earlier for by the camera). Do not try to go beneath the home but as suggested here, just along the glass edge. I damaged the small metal clip under the button and detached the IC tape from the button, meaning I had to replace the glass touch screen with digitiser and home button.

    PeterB - Reply

  27. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 1
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

  28. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 28, image 2 of 2
    • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

    • At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.

    • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

  29. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 29, image 2 of 2
    • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

  30. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 30, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 30, image 2 of 2
    • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

    • If reusing the front panel assembly during reassembly, you will need to replace your display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.

    This picture and several others that follow are not for the "LTE" model.

    Tim Osborn - Reply

    Some of the steps, including the comments, are replicated between guides.  Be aware! This can render them somewhat generic, and possibly non-optimal.  For instance, this step is replicated between at least the mini 2 LTE, mini 2 Wi-Fi, mini 3 LTE, & mini 3 Wi-Fi.

    ciradrak -

    Maybe that’s because this is for the WiFi model.

    mcr4u2 -

    Remember to remove the old black adhesive from the digitizer and iPad frame. Some can be pulled out and some needs a sharp blade to remove. This will give you room to apply your new adhesive strips when reassembling.

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

  31. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 31, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 31, image 3 of 3
    • The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.

    • Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.

    • Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

  32. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 32, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 32, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD:

    • Three 3.3 mm screws

    • One 4.5 mm screw

    • If there is tape covering any LCD screws, peel it up with tweezers.

    This is VERY IMPORTANT please be sure to put the screws EXACTLY how they were when you removed them otherwise your screen will not rotate when you put the new digitizer on. i closed my ipad thinking everything was ok but now the screen does not automatically rotate, but lucky i jailbroke my ipad first and have an activator gesture to rotate for me :-)

    Chris Grayden - Reply

    stripped the screws at the home button side of the ipad and the precision screw extractor set is too big to work. help?! paramedic064@gmail.com

    paramedic064 - Reply

    We have some great posts on Answers about getting stripped screws out, you can refer to What are your tips/tricks for removing or extracting stripped screws? for advice, or ask a new one and see if someone can come up with new ideas. We also have a stripped screw removal guide for you to check out. Good luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found that Phillips #000 work better then the Phillips #00 for this entire product. I'll be recommending a change to the fix kit as well.

    William - Reply

    This is a tip:

    I have a terrible time cleaning the lcd because no matter how hard I try not to touch it, I always get smudges! So take my advice…remove the front film from the new digitizer and place it over the lcd. It is bigger so you can cut it down or just lift it to get to the screws. Now no fingerprints and also less chance for scratches. The front side is easy to clean once it’s installed so need to have that covered while working-the insides are what needs protecting.

    mamashannon4u - Reply

  33. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 33, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 33, image 2 of 2
    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still adhered in place and connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.

    • Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate. It must be between the LCD and the shield.

    • Even bending the LCD slightly can permanently damage it, so be extremely careful as you lift.

    • You can try these alternate removal methods to reduce your chance of cracking the LCD during the removal process:

    • Run a thin string (like floss or fishing line) under the display, starting from the top then working your way down

    • Use a thin, flexible card or plastic money note to cut through the adhesive starting from the top.

    Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate, but between the LCD and the shield. Also, not that on the LTE models, the antennas are at this end and there is a bit of adhesive holding this end of the LCD down.

    Tim Osborn - Reply

    This bit of adhesive is located beneath the foam, and runs the entire length of the antennas. You must lift the foam and detach the tape before you're able to get the top to come out the chassis

    James - Reply

    This is not present in this tutorial and is very frustrating. I fix it must look into this

    James - Reply

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - Reply

    Thanks for the fishing line suggestion. It certainly worked for me (used 6lb test line). With using the fishing line, one is a lot less likely to break the LCD compared to using a spudger.

    rgstout -

    awesome tip thanks

    Pa Du -

    The tutorial procedure should be edited once and for all to instruct to detach the adhesive strip from the top of the LCD prior to attempting to lift it. Failure to do so will invariably result in a broken LCD!!!

    The simplest way to do that is to first gently remove the foam strip running around the top of the LCD with a pair of tweezers. Only then will the shiny metallic adhesive tape be visible and accessible.

    lorenzocangiano - Reply

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot - Reply

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - Reply

    Yeah, I broke my LCD because the guide did not specify the glue on the top portion if you have an LTE model. I didn’t even try hard at all. I tried to lift it with the plastic spudger and saw that it did not move. Came to check the comments and when I looked back the top corner was already broken.

    Thanks iFixit! Awesome guide

    Jorge Tamez - Reply

  34. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 34, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 34, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 34, image 3 of 3
    • The LCD is secured by mild adhesive that should be loosened before you flip the LCD up from its shield plate.

    • Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.

    Hi. I noticed that the tutorial is for an LTE iPad mini 2. However, these pictures do not show and LTE device. I'm having issues removing the LCD from the iPad due to the antenna. Any suggestions? (How to remove antenna?)

    Kevin Rodriguez - Reply

    This step needs extra detail on how the LCD adhesive should be loosened. I've now got stress marks on the LCD which show up when solid backgrounds are displayed on screen as the LCD flexed when trying to pry it out.

    Cool_Breeze - Reply

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - Reply

    Great tip about the fishing wire because you will most certainly crack the LCD just yanking it out. Thank you and hit em with the hein

    Curtis Jordan Lenox - Reply

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot - Reply

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - Reply

  35. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 35, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 35, image 2 of 2
    • Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.

    • Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.

    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD from the iPad.

    • Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers to separate the tape, being careful not to pull on the digitizer cable.

    this was a pain to remove but the two pieces of tape should be separated using your spudger so that you can remove the lcd.

    Chris Grayden - Reply

    absolutely. lift the screen 45 degrees before pulling it too

    Billinski -

    The screen was a tight fit in the recess. Whilst maneouvering it out, it flexed a little. Once reassembled, there are now feint stress marks visible when the screen displays a uniform background. With photos it's not noticeable, but on solid backgrounds, it is very noticeable. :-(

    Be careful when pulling the LCD out. Any hints for pulling it out safely should be added to this step.

    Cool_Breeze - Reply

    This step is bad advise. Once you get the LCD unglued top and sides, drop those plastic tools behind it to keep it up and apply heat to the front bottom of the LCD where the tape is applied on either side, use your spudger to push the tape away before you attempt to pull or flip the LCD over. It is very easy to break if you don't get the tape loose enough, so do yourself a favor and free the LCD from the tape before you attempt to maneuver it.

    brentschwartz - Reply

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - Reply

    As others have said this step is rather problematic and following the tuturial instructions will most definitely lead to damaging the LCD. One problem is that the two adhesive tapes are not indicated in the photo: they are large and black and they are partly covered by long strips of thicker material that looks like padding. To remove them it helps to heat a little with the opener and then one can slowly peel them away by alternating the sharp and flat tips of the spudger.

    lorenzocangiano - Reply

    This must be the most difficult part. I took the advice of using fishing line and it worked a treat. However, due to lack of knowledge - I managed to slice straight through the LCD ribbons (all of them). I figure it was glue so kept going! Please take not that fishing line is only good for the sides, not the top where the LCD is attached! New LCD on order for round 2.

    Mike - Reply

    Well. I cracked the LCD during this process, so another $100. But, it’s the journey that counts, right? There is adhesive keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum shield. As I was prying the LCD up (I didn't know about the adhesive), I did hear feint cracking. Also it is too tight to try to flip the LCD over as shown. I did heat the bottom strips, but still tried to do it as shown, more cracking. It seems best to heat it and push the adhesive strips back and separate them prior to lifting. As well as the sides of the LCD for lifting!!

    William Dailey - Reply

    I separated the small tape in the middle (5mm), and the large upper tape (20mm), but left the lower tape at the connector in place. That way, the LCD was much easier to pull away gently and to tilt over.

    peterhebbinckuys - Reply

    I used a needle nosed tweezers to remove the tape on the bottom left and right. I then used the plastic spudger and went between the LCD and the metal piece. I gently went down the left side about half way and then the right and slowly and gently worked both sides until they separated.

    Abbot - Reply

    This step is unclear and should be revised, but Abbot’s comment has the right idea.  The tape holding the LCD in place should be highlighted in the image. This tape wraps around the lower edge of the panel and extends onto the front face, then a piece of cushion is attached on top.  Heat that tape to soften the adhesive then peal it up.  The connector for the LCD is on the back side of the panel in the lower right hand corner, it is not near the tape you are pealing away from the panel. Once the tape is separated very little force is required to shift the panel toward the top of the device as depicted. If you attempt to ‘pull the LCD away from the speakers’ with two hands as shown, it will almost certainly be broken.  Also, all the youtube explanations (at least the ones I could find) of how to remove the LCD make it look like you lift up on the top which would only cause the LCD to break.  So youtube failed this step as well.  It’s not easy, be careful.

    P.S. as these steps are replicated between more than one device –– I’m working on an iPad mini 3 LTE, the tape may be in different places on other devices?

    ciradrak -

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - Reply

    The three tapes is best removed with tweezers! Then the LCD is easily flipped over. Extremely odd it’s not explained in this way.

    trnilsson - Reply

    It is MANDATORY to loosen the 3 tapes as well (step 36), don’t even try to lift it without loosening them first!!!! After you did it you can turn the screen without any resistance! Should be added in this guide!!!!

    Ishino Akatawa - Reply

  36. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 36, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 36, image 2 of 2
    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

    • Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.

    • Lay the LCD on the front panel glass to allow access to the display cables.

  37. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 37, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 37, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 37, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display.

    • Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.

    This was harder than it looks. The adhesive tape covers a lot of area and has stuck to it tiny wires that go to the speaker. I had to use the tweezers to very carefully separate the wire from the adhesive, and to then pull the adhesive off the circuit board area in one spot before it would finally come away.

    Ray Everett - Reply

    Be careful that it does not pull up all the foam strips, that was my issue.

    Shane - Reply

  38. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 38, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the seven 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the LCD shield plate.

    My LCD shield plate had many more screws than this. You have to remove them all.

    David Rowthorn - Reply

    My plate had 8 on the upper line, 6 + 2 at bottom. 16 total.

    There are strong magnets on the sides and they keep catching the screws as you take them out. Tweezers are helpful to fish them.

    Gina Romo -

    At the assembly stage I found it is easier to use Philips PH000 screw driver bit than PH00. It helped me to get these minuscule screws in place, catch the head holes and drive them into their tight position. While using PH00 the driver would not catch the holes in their head and I was risking scratching the display since the screws refused to settle in the openings.

    mxmbulat - Reply

  39. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 39, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 39, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 39, image 3 of 3
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad.

    • Remove the LCD shield plate.

    You can also just slide it back to expose the cable bracket.

    Will - Reply

  40. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement, LCD: step 40, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:

    • One 2.8 mm screw

    • Three 1.4 mm screws

  41. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 41, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 41, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 41, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad.

  42. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 42, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 42, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 42, image 3 of 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the home button cable up off of its socket on the logic board.

    • Fold the home button ribbon cable out of the way.

    maybe disconnect the battery before touch the home button cable

    cli168 - Reply

    On a iPad mini 3 you MUST remove the home button cable connector, before you have access to the battery connector

    phigsmith - Reply

    The wider end allows better leverage and no slippage

    Billinski - Reply

  43. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 43, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 43, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 43, image 3 of 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

    The wider end allows better leverage and no slippage

    Billinski - Reply

  44. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 44, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 44, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the LCD connector up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

    The wider end allows better leverage and no slippage

    Billinski - Reply

  45. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 45, image 1 of 1
    • Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini 3.

  46. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement, Front Panel Assembly: step 46, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement, Front Panel Assembly: step 46, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the digitizer cable connector straight up off of its socket.

    The wider end allows better leverage and no slippage

    Billinski - Reply

  47. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 47, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 47, image 2 of 2
    • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the battery side of the digitizer board to begin separating it from the rear case.

  48. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 48, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 48, image 2 of 2
    • Lift the digitizer board up to free the last of the adhesive.

    It’s quite stiff, the board is secured by adhesive, so don’t worry about using gentle force.

    Continue to pry off the flexicables, also secured with adhesive.

    Billinski - Reply

  49. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 49, image 1 of 1
    • Lift and remove the front panel assembly from the iPad.

  50. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement, Battery: step 50, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement, Battery: step 50, image 2 of 2
    • The battery is held to the iPad case with some adhesive that will need to be heated in order to be separated.

    • Heat an iOpener and place it in the center of the back of the iPad case.

    • After about two minutes, remove the iOpener and place it on the right side of the iPad—the side farthest from the camera.

    Hair dryer works just as well. Approx 3 or so minutes oh high.

    Billinski - Reply

  51. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 51, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 51, image 2 of 2
    • Throughout the following procedure, you'll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad to separate the adhesive securing the battery in place. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

    • Flip the iPad back over and insert a plastic card under the battery cell nearest the logic board and right speaker.

    • If you encounter significant resistance, re-heat the iOpener and repeat the previous step to give the adhesive more time to soften.

    While I successfully replaced the battery I found that removing the original battery was tougher than removing the digitizer. I had to use more force to cut through the adhesive. Pay attention at this stage as you could easily damage the motherboard or surrounding cables.

    mxmbulat - Reply

    Yes this is a bit of a pain, but I did succeed after about 5 minutes.

    I used a standard out of date credit card or equivalent, which is strong and costs nothing.

    Working from the edge nearest the case, as shown above, I managed to get about 1 cm lifted, then apply hairdryer in that gap, directly between battery and case, followed by some brute force with the card to keep sliding, wiggling and prying. Eventually one of the cells is lifted out of the way. More heat with hairdryer on back side of case, then as before slide the credit card hard under the battery, wiggling, eventually getting the whole battery out without damage.

    Billinski - Reply

  52. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 52, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 52, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the plastic card and insert it under the battery cell nearest the edge of the case.

  53. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 53, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 53, image 2 of 2
    • Insert a second plastic card beneath the battery cell on the logic board side near the front-facing camera.

  54. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 54, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 54, image 2 of 2
    • Remove and insert the second card under the battery near the headphone jack.

  55. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 55, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 55, image 2 of 2
    • Grasp both cards and slowly pull the case-side battery cell up about two inches from the rear case.

    • Peel slowly and try not to bend the battery cell.

  56. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 56, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 56, image 2 of 2
    • Move the right-hand card up under the other battery cell.

  57. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 57, image 1 of 2 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 57, image 2 of 2
    • Move the left-hand card up under the other battery cell.

  58. iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 58, image 1 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 58, image 2 of 3 iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement: step 58, image 3 of 3
    • Grip both cards and use them to lift the battery from the rear case.

    • Remove the battery from the iPad.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

22 other people completed this guide.

Sam Goldheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

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4 Comments

Wonderful instructions. Very comprehensive and clear. I would have found a bit more insight into installing the new adhesive helpful, as well as any guidance on how thoroughly the old adhesive needed to be removed. Took me about 2.5 hrs, working slowly and deliberately. Thanks Sam!

joe - Reply

Thank you so much I really needed help

Thanks, Sam

Sam Liam Matthews - Reply

Thank you! I had an iPad Mini 3 with a bulging battery that had lifted the glass and display away from the body of the iPad. I purchased the repair kit + battery replacement kit and was able to install the new battery using these instructions. I took extra time to make sure the glass and display were not damaged from the bulging battery, but it made it a little easier to get the glass off since most of the adhesive had already been lifted off. I used Goo Gone and one of the blue plastic spudgers to remove the old adhesive from the glass and from the case.

I would have liked to have seen instructions on installing the replacement adhesive but figured it out. I cut some of the long pieces into smaller pieces to make it more manageable, especially the section under the digitizer ribbon. Also, there wasn’t a mention of the two, small, metal pieces that stick to the adhesive in two of the corners to help support the glass over the display screws. I made sure to save those and replace them.

Jeff Hanlon - Reply

My Ipad Mini 3 doesn’t turn on at all. I checked the battery’s voltage and it’s ok. Could it be the LCD? Can anyone help me?

Robin Van Bakel - Reply

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