Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to replace the logic board in an iPad Air LTE. Note that replacing the logic board will result in losing all your data, as well as Touch ID functionality.

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

hello -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - Reply

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Reply

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - Reply

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - Reply

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

jfmartin67 - Reply

If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

aaroncope - Reply

The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

Mike Martin -

If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

Blair Miller - Reply

Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

notalawyer - Reply

I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

Vince Asbridge - Reply

Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

dale kingsbury - Reply

Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly. Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
  • Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

  • Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

jfmartin67 - Reply

The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

kinchma - Reply

“At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

Blair Miller - Reply

I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

Joel Tyson - Reply

Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

Travis Dixon - Reply

The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

Javier Lozada - Reply

The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step. As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas: Front-facing camera
  • While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.

  • As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:

    • Front-facing camera

    • Antennas

    • Display cables

Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
  • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

jfmartin67 - Reply

Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

kinchma - Reply

It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

Scott S - Reply

Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

Simone Gabbriellini -

Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

Jeff Suovanen -

The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

Blair Miller - Reply

After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

Taiji Saotome - Reply

It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

phongsiri nirachornkul - Reply

Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD. Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

  • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Add Comment

Reheat and replace the iOpener.
  • Reheat and replace the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

Scott - Reply

Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

Jeff Suovanen -

Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
  • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

Scott S - Reply

This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

Corey Barcus -

How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

chrisweiler - Reply

Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
  • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

  • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

Scott S - Reply

Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
  • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

  • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

What's the best way to clean 'em off?

What's the safest way?

Mike McIntosh - Reply

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

Add Comment

Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
  • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera.
  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

  • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera.

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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
  • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.
  • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

  • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.

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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
  • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
  • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

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Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there. Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.
  • Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

  • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad. The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad.
  • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad.

Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

Blair Miller - Reply

Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

Sam Lionheart -

My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

Dylan Bouterse - Reply

Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.
  • Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.

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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner. Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad. The third image shows the two antennas and the home button cavity in the lower case of the iPad.
  • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

  • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

  • The third image shows the two antennas and the home button cavity in the lower case of the iPad.

    • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

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Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing. With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button. Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
  • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

  • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

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Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick. Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive. Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.
  • Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick.

  • Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.

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With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner. Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna. Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna.
  • With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner.

    • Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna.

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Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the volume control side of the iPad.
  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the volume control side of the iPad.

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Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat. On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.
  • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

  • On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.

  • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas.

You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

Travis Dixon - Reply

Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.
  • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.

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While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive. Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables. Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables.
  • While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive.

  • Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables.

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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace. During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you are re-using it) with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using pre-cut adhesive strips.
  • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

  • During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you are re-using it) with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using pre-cut adhesive strips.

  • It's easy to pinch a flex cable between the front glass and the iPad's frame during reassembly. Be mindful of the flex cables and make sure they gently fold and tuck under the frame. If the folds in a flex cable are pressed completely flat, it may be damaged beyond repair.

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Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws. Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws. Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
  • Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.

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Remove the four Phillips screws securing the LCD:
  • Remove the four Phillips screws securing the LCD:

    • Three 4.0 mm screws

    • One 4.8 mm screw

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Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers. Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
  • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.

  • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

    • Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.

  • Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.

    • Set the LCD down on a soft, clean, lint-free surface.

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Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board. To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery. Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.
  • Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

  • To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery.

    • Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.

The could recommend me since I did not put the wedge first in the connection of the battery and it heated the logic card a couple of minutes, q´l recommend to solve it since it does not turn on

carlos renao - Reply

The battery isolation pick didn’t come with my kit. I made my own using one of the regular picks and a pair of scissors.

Blair Miller - Reply

Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket.
  • Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board. The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.

  • The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.

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Remove the LCD.
  • Remove the LCD.

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Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
  • Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward. Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward.

  • Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

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Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets. To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board. To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.

    • To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.

When reversing with the new screen , this was the hardest part for me.

The cables needs to fit under the LCD screen, and they kept going out of place when I tried to close the screen in the end.

That meant that I had to remove the LCD again with one hand while holding the digitizer/glass with the other - all while I had already exposed the adhesives.

OleTheill - Reply

  • Remove the front panel assembly.

    • If the home button ribbon cable sticks to the iPad's rear case, don't try to force it. Gently peel it off the case using a pair of tweezers, and then you can fully remove the front panel assembly.

  • During reassembly, to prevent "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your iPad, check to make sure there is a layer of foam or tape covering the metal frame on the back of the glass.

    • These areas, which are part of the digitizer, are covered by foam adhesive on your iPad's original front panel. Some replacement panels leave this area exposed, which can cause it to ground out against other components. You can protect it by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape.

After removing the glass, I'd suggest scraping off any remaining black adhesive off of the iPad's frame. Get every speck. This may be time consuming if you have lost glass integrity and have sticky, splintered shards around the edge of the frame, but you need the frame completely clean of adhesive before you put the new front panel down or else it won't lay correctly in the frame.

johnjustinirvine - Reply

Use tweezers to peel and remove the piece of tape covering the SIM board cable connector on the logic board.
  • Use tweezers to peel and remove the piece of tape covering the SIM board cable connector on the logic board.

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the SIM board cable connector. Slide the SIM board cable straight out of its ZIF connector. Slide the SIM board cable straight out of its ZIF connector.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the SIM board cable connector.

  • Slide the SIM board cable straight out of its ZIF connector.

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Remove the following screws securing the upper component cable bracket:
  • Remove the following screws securing the upper component cable bracket:

    • Two 2.0 mm Phillips screws

    • Three 1.4 mm Phillips screws

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Use tweezers to start peeling back the tape securing the upper component cable bracket. Use tweezers to start peeling back the tape securing the upper component cable bracket.
  • Use tweezers to start peeling back the tape securing the upper component cable bracket.

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Slowly peel the upper component cable bracket up out of the iPad—leaving the tape pieces on the bracket to make it easier to reinstall. Slowly peel the upper component cable bracket up out of the iPad—leaving the tape pieces on the bracket to make it easier to reinstall. Slowly peel the upper component cable bracket up out of the iPad—leaving the tape pieces on the bracket to make it easier to reinstall.
  • Slowly peel the upper component cable bracket up out of the iPad—leaving the tape pieces on the bracket to make it easier to reinstall.

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The following steps involve disconnecting many press connectors from their sockets on the logic board. When disconnecting these cables, be sure to pry up only on the connector, and not the socket itself. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • The following steps involve disconnecting many press connectors from their sockets on the logic board. When disconnecting these cables, be sure to pry up only on the connector, and not the socket itself.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera connector from its socket on the logic board.

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Slide an opening pick underneath the front-facing camera cable to break up the adhesive holding it in place. Push the camera cable up with a spudger to reveal a second ribbon cable connector underneath. Push the camera cable up with a spudger to reveal a second ribbon cable connector underneath.
  • Slide an opening pick underneath the front-facing camera cable to break up the adhesive holding it in place.

  • Push the camera cable up with a spudger to reveal a second ribbon cable connector underneath.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently disconnect the headphone jack ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board. Again, carefully push this second ribbon cable aside to reveal more connectors underneath. Again, carefully push this second ribbon cable aside to reveal more connectors underneath.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently disconnect the headphone jack ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

  • Again, carefully push this second ribbon cable aside to reveal more connectors underneath.

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Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the pointed tip of the spudger to disconnect the GPS antenna cable, directly to the right of the microphone cable connector. Use the pointed tip of the spudger to disconnect the GPS antenna cable, directly to the right of the microphone cable connector.
  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Use the pointed tip of the spudger to disconnect the GPS antenna cable, directly to the right of the microphone cable connector.

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Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

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Disconnect the antenna interconnect cable by lifting it straight up from its socket on the logic board. Disconnect the antenna interconnect cable by lifting it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the antenna interconnect cable by lifting it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable from its socket on the logic board.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the primary cellular antenna connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the primary cellular antenna connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the primary cellular antenna connector from its socket on the logic board.

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Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw securing the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable bracket.
  • Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw securing the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable bracket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently fold the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable bracket up and out of the way. The small, S-shaped interconnect cable remains attached to the bracket via a press connector on the underside of the bracket. If it disconnects accidentally, reconnect it by pressing it into place.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently fold the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable bracket up and out of the way.

    • The small, S-shaped interconnect cable remains attached to the bracket via a press connector on the underside of the bracket. If it disconnects accidentally, reconnect it by pressing it into place.

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Remove the piece of black tape covering the upper button assembly cable connector. Remove the piece of black tape covering the upper button assembly cable connector.
  • Remove the piece of black tape covering the upper button assembly cable connector.

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Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector.
  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector.

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Use tweezers to carefully pull the upper button assembly ribbon cable straight out of its connector. There is very little give on this cable, so you may need to apply a decent amount of force. Be sure you are pulling the cable straight back, and not upward against the connector.
  • Use tweezers to carefully pull the upper button assembly ribbon cable straight out of its connector.

    • There is very little give on this cable, so you may need to apply a decent amount of force. Be sure you are pulling the cable straight back, and not upward against the connector.

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Disconnect the left and right Wi-Fi antenna cables by lifting them straight up from their sockets on the lower end of the logic board. These sockets are fairly delicate. Be careful to apply pressure straight up so you don't shear the socket off the board. These sockets are fairly delicate. Be careful to apply pressure straight up so you don't shear the socket off the board.
  • Disconnect the left and right Wi-Fi antenna cables by lifting them straight up from their sockets on the lower end of the logic board.

    • These sockets are fairly delicate. Be careful to apply pressure straight up so you don't shear the socket off the board.

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Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the tape securing the right Wi-Fi antenna cable near the SIM board. Peel carefully and pull up on the tape only—not the antenna cable, which will rip easily. It may be helpful to fold the SIM board cable back slightly to better access the tape—but be careful not to damage the SIM board cable. If you need more clearance, remove the SIM board.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the tape securing the right Wi-Fi antenna cable near the SIM board.

    • Peel carefully and pull up on the tape only—not the antenna cable, which will rip easily.

    • It may be helpful to fold the SIM board cable back slightly to better access the tape—but be careful not to damage the SIM board cable. If you need more clearance, remove the SIM board.

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Repeat the previous step to peel up a second piece of tape directly underneath, securing the left Wi-Fi antenna cable. If you accidentally peeled up both pieces of tape together, carefully peel them apart and separate them before proceeding to the next step. If you accidentally peeled up both pieces of tape together, carefully peel them apart and separate them before proceeding to the next step.
  • Repeat the previous step to peel up a second piece of tape directly underneath, securing the left Wi-Fi antenna cable.

    • If you accidentally peeled up both pieces of tape together, carefully peel them apart and separate them before proceeding to the next step.

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Four additional pieces of tape secure the left Wi-Fi antenna near the lower edge of the iPad. Peel the tape up from the rear case.
  • Four additional pieces of tape secure the left Wi-Fi antenna near the lower edge of the iPad.

    • Peel the tape up from the rear case.

    • Fold the antenna cable out of the way.

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A bend in the speaker cable makes it difficult to peel the tape up from the end. Instead, grip the tape just under the speaker and peel it down, away from the edge of the case.
  • A bend in the speaker cable makes it difficult to peel the tape up from the end.

  • Instead, grip the tape just under the speaker and peel it down, away from the edge of the case.

    • Be careful with your tweezers—only grab and peel the tape, and not the cable beneath.

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Peel the tape toward the home button to uncover the speaker cable connector. If necessary, as you peel the tape off the right speaker ribbon cable, use a spudger to hold the cable in place and prevent it from tearing.
  • Peel the tape toward the home button to uncover the speaker cable connector.

    • If necessary, as you peel the tape off the right speaker ribbon cable, use a spudger to hold the cable in place and prevent it from tearing.

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Continue peeling up the tape away until there is enough slack in the left speaker cable to disconnect it. Do not completely remove the tape—it will be easier to replace if you leave a section still attached to the rear case.
  • Continue peeling up the tape away until there is enough slack in the left speaker cable to disconnect it.

    • Do not completely remove the tape—it will be easier to replace if you leave a section still attached to the rear case.

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector. Disconnect the left speaker cable by pulling it straight out of its socket. Disconnect the left speaker cable by pulling it straight out of its socket.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector.

  • Disconnect the left speaker cable by pulling it straight out of its socket.

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector. Disconnect the right speaker cable by pulling it straight out of its socket. Disconnect the right speaker cable by pulling it straight out of its socket.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector.

  • Disconnect the right speaker cable by pulling it straight out of its socket.

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Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning connector to the rear case.
  • Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning connector to the rear case.

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In the next steps, you will use an iOpener to apply heat to the rear case of the iPad to soften adhesive holding the logic board in place. As you reheat and place the iOpener in each of the indicated locations, leave it in place for at least a minute to soften the adhesive through the rear case. The adhesive is in the form of seven strips of black tape—refer to this step as you work at heating and prying to keep track of where each piece is located.
  • In the next steps, you will use an iOpener to apply heat to the rear case of the iPad to soften adhesive holding the logic board in place.

  • As you reheat and place the iOpener in each of the indicated locations, leave it in place for at least a minute to soften the adhesive through the rear case.

  • The adhesive is in the form of seven strips of black tape—refer to this step as you work at heating and prying to keep track of where each piece is located.

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Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the bottom edge of the iPad to soften the adhesive securing the Lightning port ribbon cable to the rear case.
  • Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the bottom edge of the iPad to soften the adhesive securing the Lightning port ribbon cable to the rear case.

  • Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften, then move on to the next step.

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Slide the flat end of a spudger under the Lightning connector cable to break up the adhesive securing it to the rear case. If necessary, push the left speaker cable gently aside to provide access to the Lightning connector cable. If necessary, push the left speaker cable gently aside to provide access to the Lightning connector cable.
  • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the Lightning connector cable to break up the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

    • If necessary, push the left speaker cable gently aside to provide access to the Lightning connector cable.

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Lay a warm iOpener over the upper edge of the iPad and let it sit for a couple minutes to soften the adhesive holding the logic board in place.
  • Lay a warm iOpener over the upper edge of the iPad and let it sit for a couple minutes to soften the adhesive holding the logic board in place.

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As you complete the next few steps, prying adhesive securing the logic board in place, always start by testing gently to see if the adhesive is softened. If not, reheat the iOpener and reapply it to the back of the rear case. Carefully insert an opening pick under the logic board, between the front-facing camera and the battery. Be sure to insert the pick over the the antenna cable that runs along the length of the battery.
  • As you complete the next few steps, prying adhesive securing the logic board in place, always start by testing gently to see if the adhesive is softened. If not, reheat the iOpener and reapply it to the back of the rear case.

  • Carefully insert an opening pick under the logic board, between the front-facing camera and the battery.

    • Be sure to insert the pick over the the antenna cable that runs along the length of the battery.

  • Slide the guitar pick toward the front-facing camera connector, and stop at the bend in the logic board.

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Reheat your iOpener and lay it lengthways on the rear case, directly over the logic board.
  • Reheat your iOpener and lay it lengthways on the rear case, directly over the logic board.

  • Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften, then remove the iOpener and move on to the next step.

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Insert an opening pick underneath  the logic board at the corner of the large EMI shield. Slide the pick upwards until you reach the battery connector to break up the adhesive holding the logic board in place. Slide the pick upwards until you reach the battery connector to break up the adhesive holding the logic board in place.
  • Insert an opening pick underneath the logic board at the corner of the large EMI shield.

  • Slide the pick upwards until you reach the battery connector to break up the adhesive holding the logic board in place.

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Remove the battery isolation pick. Insert a plastic card underneath the logic board at the battery connector. As you push through the adhesive at the outer edge of the logic board, be careful not to damage the upper button assembly ribbon cable that you disconnected in Step 60. Position the card exactly as shown.
  • Remove the battery isolation pick.

  • Insert a plastic card underneath the logic board at the battery connector.

    • As you push through the adhesive at the outer edge of the logic board, be careful not to damage the upper button assembly ribbon cable that you disconnected in Step 60. Position the card exactly as shown.

  • Slide the card all the way underneath the logic board, separating the adhesive along the outer edge.

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Insert a plastic card underneath the lower end of the logic board, directly underneath the display connectors and Wi-Fi module. Insert a plastic card underneath the lower end of the logic board, directly underneath the display connectors and Wi-Fi module.
  • Insert a plastic card underneath the lower end of the logic board, directly underneath the display connectors and Wi-Fi module.

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Pull the Lightning connector straight out of its recess in the rear case.
  • Pull the Lightning connector straight out of its recess in the rear case.

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Gently lift up on the logic board from its lower edge and remove the logic board. When installing the logic board, check to make sure that each of the cable connectors you detached earlier is correctly routed over the top of the logic board before proceeding with reassembly.
  • Gently lift up on the logic board from its lower edge and remove the logic board.

  • When installing the logic board, check to make sure that each of the cable connectors you detached earlier is correctly routed over the top of the logic board before proceeding with reassembly.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Evan Noronha

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