Introduction

Replacing the hard drive requires separating the display and removing the left speaker.

This guide also includes steps to upgrade your iMac's hard drive with a SSD. It describes how to install the SSD's temperature sensor so that the Mac's fans will operate at the correct speed.

Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply.

Video Overview

Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.
  • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.

  • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

Clark Green - Reply

A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

Dan -

Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

Walter Hayden - Reply

Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

Walter Hayden - Reply

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Reply

I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

Anthony Zimmerman - Reply

Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.
  • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

  • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

  • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

Gerry - Reply

  • Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

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  • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

Anthony Zimmerman - Reply

  • Continue along the top of the display.

  • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

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  • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

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  • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

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  • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

  • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

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  • While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

  • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

  • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8" (9.5 mm), or you may damage internal components.

I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

Peter Fischer - Reply

Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

Edgar Broekema - Reply

i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

Eugene Kharkov - Reply

  • Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame.

  • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4" (6mm).

My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

Anthony Zimmerman - Reply

  • Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

  • Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

Julia S. - Reply

  • Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

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  • Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

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  • Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

  • As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

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  • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

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  • Insert the card back into the top left corner.

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  • Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

  • With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.

  • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.

  • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

Marco De Palma - Reply

  • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

Alastair Lack - Reply

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Reply

The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

Ed tabickman - Reply

  • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

  • Disconnect the display data cable.

    • This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

chansung park - Reply

Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

Dan -

Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

redfoxydarrest - Reply

Sorry damaged display

Dan -

I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

john - Reply

I agree! +1

Jim Reitz -

[|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

Jim Kelly - Reply

Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

Sam Lionheart -

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Reply

  • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

  • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

  • Remove as much of the adhesive as possible by grabbing it at the outer edges, and then pulling or rolling it towards the middle.

Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

dforgues - Reply

Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

David Zemsky - Reply

Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

Peter Haigh - Reply

There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

Todd Derek - Reply

The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

Andrew Stephens - Reply

  • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

Wizbang FL - Reply

you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

Thomas Webb - Reply

What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

Eric - Reply

[|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

John Warmann - Reply

Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

Charlie Nancarrow - Reply

  • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners.

  • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.

  • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

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  • If you are replacing the display panel, you may need to transfer additional components from the old panel to the new one. Compare the back of the old display with the replacement display. Note all cables, sensors, and foam cushioning that are missing from the new display.

    • If there is a wire or cable underneath adhesive tape, always pull the tape off first.

    • If the cable is glued to the chassis, use a heated iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive first. You can then slide an opening pick underneath the cable to loosen it. Never pull directly on the delicate connectors.

    • Slide an opening pick underneath the foam cushion pieces to separate them from the display, and gently pull them off. You may need some double sided tape to re-attach them to the new display.

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  • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.

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  • Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

johann beda - Reply

  • Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket.

  • De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.

  • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

Anthony Zimmerman - Reply

  • Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

brianyu - Reply

The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

Robert -

there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

Thomas Webb - Reply

Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

Joseph Ashe - Reply

  • Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").

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  • Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

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  • Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

  • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.

    • Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.

I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

Robert - Reply

me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

Alber Einsten -

Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

Matthew Gonzalez -

  • Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

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  • Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

Robert - Reply

Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

webmail54 - Reply

Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

lamajr - Reply

  • Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

  • Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.

  • Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

Walter Hayden - Reply

Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

clinton - Reply

  • Remove the left hard drive bracket.

This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

Anthony Zimmerman - Reply

  • Remove the four 8.1 mm T8 screw posts from the hard drive, and transfer them to the replacement drive.

In my case these were T9 screw posts. Late 2012 iMac. They had traces of Loctite on them.

rsnadd - Reply

  • Only follow the next 8 steps if you are replacing your hard drive with an SSD kit.

  • Depress the enclosure's front plate latch with your finger. While holding the latch down, swing the plate out.

  • Remove the front plate.

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  • Line up the small SATA connector so that the short side on the SSD connector matches the short side on the enclosure connector.

  • Slide the drive in through the front of the enclosure until the SATA connector is fully seated.

    • The SSD connects with the enclosure in only one way. If the connectors are not lining up, rotate the SSD and try again.

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  • You may optionally install two Philips #1 screws that came with the enclosure kit to secure the SSD in the enclosure.

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  • Plug the included sensor-enabled SATA cable into the enclosure's port.

    • Line up the narrow side of the cable connector with the narrow side of the enclosure connector. The cable is keyed to connect in only one way. If you can't connect the cable, rotate it 180°, and try again.

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  • Peel the backing off of the adhesive back of the small temperature sensor board.

  • Adhere the temperature sensor board to an exposed, metal area of the surface of the SSD, as close as possible to the SATA connector.

  • Fold the excess temperature sensor wires so that they are out of the way while you install the enclosure.

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  • Install the mounting pins from the old hard drive onto the sides of the enclosure.

    • The holes on the enclosure may not be threaded, so screwing the mounting pins into them may require extra effort. Take your time and screw them in slowly, making sure they go in straight.

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  • Attach any mounting brackets removed from the old hard drive onto the enclosure.

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  • Attach the iMac's SATA-combo cable to the new temperature-capable SATA-combo cable.

  • Route the SATA cables where they will not interfere with any other components.

    • Try to keep the cables free from any sharp bends and route them such that they are not pinched.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

130 other people completed this guide.

Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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30 Comments

My experience in upgrading this unit to a Seagate 4TB hybrid ST4000DX001 went fine except for the fans running at a constant higher RPM. Using Macs Fan Control is solving my issue for now. As a tip, you do not need to remove the left speaker, you can loosen the two screws and angle it leaning to the left.

MFR2VCB - Reply

What setting do you change in Macs Fan Control? Im looking at getting a SSD fitted to my Late 2013 iMac by a certified repair centre who have said they will do it for me if I provide the SSD but they did mention that the fans would most likely speed up as there won't be a temp sensor in the SSD. Thanks.

Lewis -

Lewis: simply running the Macs Fan Control app will do it. Otherwise the fans run at full speed because they have no temperature measurement.

Max Fenton - Reply

I'm wondering what drive apple uses for the 1TB SSD version? Is it an OEM type PCIE Sandisk as well or a larger 2.5" drive?

I'm very tempted to upgrade my Fusion drive.

Brent Petersen - Reply

Fan Control / temp sensor issue aside, are there any limitations/considerations with replacing the 3.5" 1TB HDD with a 2.5" SSD in an appropriate bracket?

Is anyone having luck with any particular SSD models?

Tim - Reply

To solve the fan issue I believe you need to add a temperature sensor like this: http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIYIM... OWC told me if you don't, your fans will go crazy because the new drive probably does not this sensor like the original mac. Just heard it today and then read this. Hope this helps!

weddings - Reply

Thank you this fixed the fan issue for me!!

Felix Waller -

Hi, is a temperature sensor (like the one linked above) necessary if I am replacing the hard drive with an SSD? Also, what is recommended for the SSD "cradle" since this model iMac comes with a 3.5" disk and SSDs are 2.5"?

wesleyhargrove - Reply

If I replace a Fusion Drive with an ordinary drive, will there be issues? Or is the fusion SSD a separate part and will be integrated when the new drive is formatted?

Alan Browne - Reply

Fusion SSD is seperate.

Evert van Harten -

I haven't had any fan noise issues at all after installing an Samsung 840 ssd instead of the seagate hdd.

peter - Reply

Hi - I replaced the Hard Drive using this guide. But it looks like my imac no longer boots up through the fusion drive. How can I confirm this or fix it to boot back through the fusion drive?

donnorth - Reply

You will have to fuse them back together through Terminal.

asnperswazin -

How do I fuse them back together through terminal?

donnorth -

I have put 1st a 500gb and after a 1tb ssd both Samsung evo 850. I didn't needed to use the OWC in line thermal sensor, I even have bought it but first upgrade it hadn't arrived yet and I wanted to know if I would really need it since I have read somewhere that the latest versions do not need it anymore. my imac is a late 2015 and I am not sure if really is the fact of it be a newer version or if the Samsung evo 850 have some thermal sensor inside. by pass, the ifixit adhesive and the included apener are both great. it was very easy to replace the hard drive, however replace the processor as a little bit hard but I had success in doing it

Alber Einsten - Reply

Is it possible to change the power button on the late 2012 iMac 27"? The cable got cut from the speaker but I was able to MacGuyver it with another power button. It looks like you'd have to take the metal bezel off which would have to be cut... Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

Ryan Arakaki - Reply

Can I have one SSD for system and another HDD for media in IMac Late 2013 (thin body) , like IMac 2011(fattest body)??

marceloQuiroga - Reply

Good guide. Would be even better if you added tips regarding replacing the adhesives on the display once the repair is complete. Thanks!

Charles - Reply

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

Sam Lionheart -

That guide exists and is the first option in the EMC 2546 guides list: iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 Adhesive Strips Replacement

Christophe Patys -

I did the installation of a new hard drive following the ifixit guide, afterwards I had the fan issue, I did not have the fans spinning at full speed like some people have been describing but the CPU and other components would just get hot very fast, this seemed very strange, installing Mac fan control didn't help much, as the CPU and stuff would heat up, and if I did not want to damage my computer I had to crank up the fans. I was desperate for a solution, so I purchased the kit from OWC (after reading "weddings" comment) being a bit sceptical, because I wasn't sure if installing a sensor would stop the CPU from heating up. But after the Installation everything is back to normal. The CPU stays at around 40 degrees, and the fan stays quite. I don't understand how this works, but I definitely recommend installing this sensor if you have similar issues after upgrading your hard drive, even if it means opening your iMac again ;). For the record: I have an iMac 27-inch Late 2012.

Felix Waller - Reply

The guide made it extremely easy to perform an SSD swap. The wheel was the perfect tool, and the strips were perfect for the job.

Christophe Patys - Reply

I made the change of the hard disk and when closing the imac one part of the screen was left in black that could be this?

john sayegh - Reply

I got this Screen problem when replaced the HDD with OWC SSD in my iMac late 2012 model.

Can anyone help me to solve this problem ? PLEASE ! I REALLY WORRY ABOUT THIS.

Please take out the photo down here.

goo.gl/vFUiGI

My Email is mrnguyenken@gmail.com

Thank you so much !

Nguyen Ken - Reply

I have the same problem as you, change the hard drive and now I have a part of the screen in black

john sayegh -

Check and make sure that the Display Data cable is properly seated when attaching it in Step 19.

Philip Sedlmair -

Completed this guide no problem at all. Previously replaced the disk on a smaller iMac without incident.

Images are excellent, detailed and specific.

No issues with CPU fan as mentioned in some other comments. iMac 27inch Late 2012 model.

Bradley Anderson - Reply

Thank you for this guide: very clear and detailed. The dedicated adhesive-cutting tool was well worth the money, as it sped up the cutting and reduced my stress level! I did need to repeat steps 9-16 a few times before the screen felt loose enough to lift away from the body. TAKE YOUR TIME - the screen WILL lift off without much force when it’s ready.

While the case is open, allow a few minutes more to remove the left speaker and carefully remove any dust and fluff that has been sucked into the case by the cooling fan!

I opted for a 2 TB FireCuda drive. Booting up and loading of apps is noticeably faster, for only a few pounds more than a 2 TB traditional HD: a cost-effective solution for an older Mac.

Peter Barber - Reply

I think they should change “Difficulty” levels. With this guide: “Easy”; Without this guide: “Difficult”. Thanks again iFixit for another successful repair.

lottpaul - Reply

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