Introduction

This guide will help you replace/upgrade the hard drive.

  • Stick a heavy-duty suction cup near each of the two top corners of the glass panel.

  • To attach the suction cups, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel (as highlighted in the second picture).

  • While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle (as highlighted by the third picture).

  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a damp soft, lint-free cloth. (Dampen with distilled water, and if needed, an equal ratio of distilled water and white vinegar for best results.)

  • Do not use the suction cups to carry the display glass because if one of them fails to stick, you could drop the screen and break it.

  • The original iMac box makes a good place to store the glass panel. Otherwise, a padded horizontal surface, like a towel on a desk will do nicely.

You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

Nick Caron - Reply

Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

jtowner - Reply

Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

Eddie - Reply

Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.

Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

Frank303 - Reply

I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

Allen Borza -

My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

Awolf - Reply

Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel. Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside. Don't use the suction cups to carry the glass panel—if either one loses its grip, the panel could fall and break.
  • Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel.

  • Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.

    • Don't use the suction cups to carry the glass panel—if either one loses its grip, the panel could fall and break.

    • After setting the glass panel down safely, be sure to release the suction cups, as the suction force over time, can crack the glass.

  • During reinstallation, be sure to meticulously clean the inside of the glass panel and the face of the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is turned on.

you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

Lau - Reply

do you still have this panel?

Alpha Dimension -

Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

ganesh - Reply

I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

Jay Gillibrand - Reply

I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

Daniel -

The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

dtsai2 -

I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

shippe - Reply

I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

Alex Reynolds - Reply

You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

Roberto Blandino - Reply

Remove the eight T10 Torx screws securing the LCD to the outer case.
  • Remove the eight T10 Torx screws securing the LCD to the outer case.

  • Be careful not to touch the display as the oil from your fingers may leave a residue that can be difficult to remove.

  • If necessary, peel the EMI gaskets located near the top center edge of the display assembly.

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Carefully lay the iMac stand-side down on a flat surface. Due to tight tolerances, you will have to use a thin hooked tool to lift the display out of the outer case. As seen in the first picture, we made one out of a bent paperclip. Alternatively, our Dual Hard Drive Kit includes a pair of tweezers with an angled tip that are great for this task.
  • Carefully lay the iMac stand-side down on a flat surface.

  • Due to tight tolerances, you will have to use a thin hooked tool to lift the display out of the outer case. As seen in the first picture, we made one out of a bent paperclip.

    • Alternatively, our Dual Hard Drive Kit includes a pair of tweezers with an angled tip that are great for this task.

  • Use a thin hooked tool to lift one side of the top edge of the display by its steel outer frame.

  • After lifting the top edge of the display on one side, hold it out of the outer case while you use a hooked tool to lift the other side.

  • Raise and hold the display high enough to access the cables.

  • Do not lift the top edge of the display out of the outer case too far, as several short ribbon cables still connect the two components.

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Disconnect the vertical sync cable in the upper left corner of the screen. Use the tip of a spudger to push on the connector's side tabs and gently walk it out of its socket.
  • Disconnect the vertical sync cable in the upper left corner of the screen. Use the tip of a spudger to push on the connector's side tabs and gently walk it out of its socket.

After disconnecting the VSync cable, I was able to keep the screen wedged apart by 8" which gave me enough working room to extract and replaced the hard drive without having to remove Step 6 - 8. This resulted in a faster change out of the hard drive.

ITSupportGuy - Reply

Amen brother! These are great guides, but could be improved with tips to simplify some processes. I just did the same as you, and it was quick and easy, with less chance to damage cable connections.

Hobowan Kenobi -

Once I put the tip of a very small flat-head screwdriver on the other side of the spudger tip, the connector popped out.

Alex Reynolds - Reply

I've managed to break off the fitting in step 6 trying to remove the screen, would anyone know the part to buy or how to fix this?

jonostainsby - Reply

It is very hard to detach the connector with the spudger. I tried forcing the connector out with the spudger by pushing on one side and then the other repeatedly. After several times it finally came out. A tool would be useful for this; there must be special plyers for doing this. Fingernails on either side seems most obvious, but maybe there is a downside to this ?

Daniel - Reply

This step brings your hands close to the exposed rear of the power supply. To avoid a high-voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board, do NOT touch the rear of the power supply.
  • This step brings your hands close to the exposed rear of the power supply. To avoid a high-voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board, do NOT touch the rear of the power supply.

  • Disconnect the LED backlight driver cable with your hand by pressing the tab down and sliding it towards the bottom of the display.

Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.

maccentric - Reply

Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.

Look at pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5jwam38drgcov...

fabio4 - Reply

I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!

Timo Laak -

Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(

Thanx a bunch!

Esteban Garcia -

Good idea! I used two chopsticks as they are longer. Placed them near the corner and use one of the T10 screw's hole in the side of LCD panel to prop it up. Fit perfectly and very sturdy. This gave me plenty of space to work with the replacement.

dtsai2 -

I skipped step 6, 7 and 8 and were using some flip chart pens to put them between the frame and the display to make the work on the hard drive. Works great.

Rita - Reply

Thanks for the tip. Works a treat!

john -

Pull the black tab straight up to disconnect the latch on the display data cable ZIF connector. Do not pull up too hard or you will damage the connector and socket.
  • Pull the black tab straight up to disconnect the latch on the display data cable ZIF connector.

  • Do not pull up too hard or you will damage the connector and socket.

  • Continue to pull the black tab up toward the top of the device, to detach the display data cable.

i mess up my date zif connector is it fixable?

LUIS - Reply

me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.

I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.

strcarlos - Reply

This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.

Alex Nelson - Reply

Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.

asthomas -

The ZIF display cable is tricky to get back in. I would suggest that this cable be the first one to be put back during reassembly. You need maximum wiggle room and visibility for this. Push in the display power cable *after* this one.

ganesh - Reply

How do you get the ZIF connector back in? Some screenshot or instruction would be very helpful. I cannot get mine back in.

Brian Bowlin - Reply

I found the best way for me to reinstall the ZIF cable in was to lay LCD panel on its face and gently peel the black tape on upper part of lcd to expose and remove the connector there. At this point the ribbon cable is free and you can insert the hard to align connector to the board. Set LCD into imac and connect the small push connector next to the ribbon cable on board. It was easier to see and then reconnect the cable to the upper portion of LCD and tape it back over. Reinstall other connectors etc. This way worked best on my 27" iMac as it was much easier.

thewiseone71 - Reply

I had to replace the cable due to damage from trying to reinsert it at the logic board and I found it best to re-attach it exactly the way that thewiseone71 describes it above. If you disconnect the part at the top with the tape around it, this goes much easier and there is less of a chance of damaging the port on the logic board where it attaches at the other end. I think some photos of this port, and the way this cable goes back in would be a great addition to this tutorial. Replacing this cable would also make a great tutorial.

lana.lawrence - Reply

What would be really helpful to this guide, and this image is the closest I can find in the sequence, is a quick summary of exactly where the diagnostic LEDs are on this model (and what they mean, although the latter is easily googleable). I only mention this as I believe my PSU is goosed as no LEDs are illuminated anywhere, however I can only find references to 2009 and 2010 of the similar MYs which evidently have diagnostic LEDs in a different place, hidden under tape, and I suspect numbered differently. So I can't be 100% certain!

Mark Whitehead - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display power cable next to the display data cable.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display power cable next to the display data cable.

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Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the iMac case.
  • Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the iMac case.

When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!

johnhugh - Reply

do not use a vacuum cleaner, it has ESD!!!!!

find a vacuum that is for computer use that has no ESD

Kurt L Nelson -

FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...

1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.

2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).

zackduchene - Reply

Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job. http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...

adrianh -

Disconnect the SATA power and data cables from the hard drive by pulling them straight away from the hard drive. Disconnect the SATA power and data cables from the hard drive by pulling them straight away from the hard drive.
  • Disconnect the SATA power and data cables from the hard drive by pulling them straight away from the hard drive.

Seems some iMacs have a thermal cable attached to the disk and some don't. Mine didn't have one and everything went fine, i.e., there were no fan issues. Saved me $40!

Robert J. Carr - Reply

Remove the two T10 Torx screws securing the hard drive to the iMac frame. Slightly rotate the top edge of the hard drive away from the outer case.
  • Remove the two T10 Torx screws securing the hard drive to the iMac frame.

  • Slightly rotate the top edge of the hard drive away from the outer case.

  • Lift the hard drive off its two lower positioning pins and remove it from the outer case.

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Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the upper bracket to the hard drive. Remove the upper bracket from the hard drive.
  • Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the upper bracket to the hard drive.

  • Remove the upper bracket from the hard drive.

  • Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the other side of the hard drive.

On my Mac the screws had Loctite or some similar thread locking compound and were very stiff to undo (I only had a "jeweller's" type T8 driver and needed to grip this with pliers). If the screws do have thread locking compound it would probably be a good idea to use this when replacing, you don't want them to come loose and short something out! That being said I didn't!

john - Reply

Carefully peel off the piece of EMI foam attached to the front of the hard drive.
  • Carefully peel off the piece of EMI foam attached to the front of the hard drive.

  • Don't forget to transfer this to your new hard drive.

I completed the steps but when i turn my imac on it beeps at me. I removed and returned both ram boards but it still beeps. Can anyone help??

williamfrench - Reply

I'm having the same problem.

William Torgerson -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

174 other people completed this guide.

Phillip Takahashi

Member since: 08/22/2011

68,647 Reputation

130 Guides authored

28 Comments

Note that if you are replacing the hard drive with a non-Apple hard drive, then you will have problems with the fan running full speed constantly (see http://blog.macsales.com/10206-further-e...). Basically, you'll need to either install a $30 piece of software to control the fans or short out some wires.

jashugan - Reply

You don´t need to short out the wires, just install the free SSD FAN CONTROL app from EXIRION.NET und you´ll be fine :D

Martin Schober -

remember after the glass, to get the aluminum front off, remove the bay for the memory upgrade on the bottom first before you remove the torx screws ans lift to access the bottom case (Between step 2 and 3)

Killen Prophet - Reply

I'm looking to replace my 3.5" HDD in my iMac (mid-2011) with a 2.5" SSD. Will I need an adapter for this?

admiralpumpkin - Reply

Absolutly. You can buy a official one on the Apple Store. I reccommend the dual-drive (HDD & SDD) tho.

marijndepraetere -

I used the newertechnology 2,5–3,5-Adapter for 16 bucks from amazon and it fits 100 %!

Martin Schober -

There are kits that have a thermal circuit and plug between the hard drive and cables to the 3.5" drive to allow other non-apple drives to be installed and still have the fans and diagnostics function normally. No need to short or modify fan speed with software that won't adjust for temperature properly. You just attach the thermal sensor to the drive and plug it in. Usually range from $50-$80 just for the cable, I'm really shocked I can't find them available from ifixit! Just ordered one from the US source.

westly197 - Reply

I successfully replaced my old 2TB HITACHI 3.5" drive (had only 50% health after 2 years left - monitored with "DriveDX") with a SEAGATE SSHD 2TB (+8GB SSD) 3.5" drive and everything works smoothly, INCLUDING TEMPERATURE AND FAN CONTROL (temperature can be read and "Macs fan control" adjusts the fan just right). I cloned my drive with "CarbinCopyCloner" before replacement and I just needed to press ALT when booting, selecting "Recovery" and point to the newly installed drive under "Restart from" (Do this if you see the folder icon with question mark)

eric - Reply

Eric where did you get this drive?

wjspencer -

It looks like "SSD Fan Control" http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ might be an alternative to using the "OWC In-line Digital Thermal Sensor for iMac 2011 Hard Drive Upgrade"

Maybe I should send some bucks to "exirion" for providing the software without charge - there is a donation button.

johann beda - Reply

I have replaced a few hard drives lately. But on this occasion I replaced the drive with an SSD one and the computer powers on but the screen remains blank. I have checked all the cables are attached. Tried putting the original drive back in. Still blank. any ideas anyone?

info theiMan - Reply

quick and easy, took me about 20 minutes to swap it out. no problems with fan speed or anything else.

dylanishihara - Reply

FAN SPEED PROBLEM -> FIXED FOR FREE

When replacing HD with same (newer model) type and brand the fan-full-speed problem still occurred. Reason: All HD's not sold by Aplle Store don't have required special apple firmware to handle the Apple built-in fan controls. Fix: FREE program: http://www.crystalidea.com/products?ref=... Don't spend money.

OVERHEAT PROBLEM / CLICKING HD

My medio 2001 iMac heats more then box windows pc: large screen that generates heat very close to components. When you hear the HD "click click", it's safe to say your HD is running too hot. Play with settings in Mac Fan Control prog to find the "no click"-setting. Check manual HD.

SLOW MAC = HOT MAC = BURNING HARD DRIVE TOO MUCH

Macrunning slow? check available RAM in Activity Monitor. If it's less then 1 gig, by some more. Dead cheap at +- 50$ / 4 gig.

EU USERS OF IFIXIT

1) Google for iFixIt Europe to find a German based webstore.

2) Buy kit + the screwset, the screws are USA type.

It's dead easy, took me 30 min.

Good luck!

marijndepraetere - Reply

Question for folks. I have a 3TB drive (WD Caviar Green) that is out of an Apple Time Capsule (the wireless bit died) that I was going to put into my iMac. It's got the Apple logo on it. Does anyone know if this will work without needing the cable or special software?

wyn - Reply

I did this upgrade - Samsung 850 EVO SSD - Adaptadrive & Sensor. The computer won't start now - won't even try to start. I think that the connection at the very top left of the screen to the back might not be correct - it might be broken. How do I deal with that? I went to an authorized Apple store and they said they won't look at it because I messed with it on my own.

Theresa S - Reply

All I had to do was disconnect the vertical sync cable. I supported the LCD with 2 Bic pens and had great access to the hard drive. There was no fan control on the HD. Everything went back together and it works perfectly. It took less than 15 minutes from start of repair to reboot.

jwlussow - Reply

Same for me, no fan control cable, and I even bought the part and had it ready! And I agree, removing the whole panel is overkill, once you get that thin top cable detached it will lift out pretty far and gives plenty of access.

Robert J. Carr -

Took an hour because I was taking my time and blew out all the nasty dust that permeated the entire inside of the nearly 4 year old iMac. Used an AdaptaDrive with an OWC thermal sensor, and a Samsung 850 EVO 1TB. Unscrewed the pins on the drive and the bracket on top and attached that hardware to the AdaptaDrive frame. Cloned the drive ahead of time and when powered up, the thing screamed to the desktop. Fans are both sitting at ~1150 RPM. So, success!

cvolek - Reply

Added new SSD in place of HDD. I used the method without removing screen, just removing first wire and supporting it on whiteboard markers. I had to drill an extra hole in the upper bracket because it's screw holes were too far away. I used regular 5.5mm drill head, and you can swap the rubber hole inserts to the new hole. It allowed me to easily add the SSD with simple ADATA bracket I got for free with my Samsung EVO. I know you can get 'the right one', but I did with what I had.

kursisskaspars - Reply

Thanks, this guide was PERFECT. I just installed an Intel 730 SSD and now my iMac is SCREAMING FAST. Nice tip on using the Dry Erase Markers to hold open the display so that you only have to disconnect the vertical sync cable. I used a short Torx to undo the HD. I used OWC AdaptaDrive to install the SSD. Love this website. What a great resource for the DIY crowd!

w4hoo - Reply

Giving birth to a flaming porcupine would be easier. Why make it so difficult? At least the memory swap is pretty simple.

joseph85750 - Reply

I tried to install an SSD using this and several other instructions available online. All of the others did it successful and I did not. The installation on the physical drive was easy. Getting my iMac to recover is not. It doesn't respond to the recovery boot. I tried using a bootable usb drive and a fresh install of the OSX, but that froze at "one second remaining". I'm now attempting a restore from time machine, which surprisingly did start, but is so slow that it will take over 9 hours to restore (it's still increasing as I post this). Can anyone give advice?

Kryn Sporry - Reply

Managed to succeed. Here was my situation:

My SSD was brand new and not initialised. Internet recovery wasn't possible as the iMac couldn't boot in recovery mode. I suspect this may be due to that bootable part being absent from the new SSD. Newer models may have a bootable partition in ROM, but my late 2009 iMac didn't.

I made a bootable USB drive on my MacBook Air. That allowed me to boot from the USB in recovery mode.

There I formatted the SSD.

I tried a fresh install of El Capitan, but as explained above, that failed.

I then tried booting from my time machine, which surprisingly worked. It only allows you to do a restore, so I selected the latest backup entry point (a few hours before I made the upgrade.

Restoring took about 9.5 hours, but this morning it had finished as the screensaver was on.

I logged on and it finished setting up my Mac.

The rest of the startup was a bit slower than expected, but I think it was faster than with the original drive.

Kryn Sporry -

GREAT! Replaced my HDD of a MID 2011 iMac 27" with a Crucial SSD 1 TB in 15 minutes (two people).

Performance is 100 to 1, this is really like buying a new iMac, but at 10 % of the cost.

Prior to replacing the HD I made a TimeMachine backup of my iMac and created a USB-Boot device for OS X Sierra.

After installing the SSD drive, boot up from the USB device and make a fresh install of Sierra. After this, connect your TimeMachine backup device (i used a 1 TB external USB HD) and use the Migration-Assistant from the Utilities Programs to restore the User/Apps/Data files from the Time-Machine Backup. The restore took about 5 hours (600 MB) because of USB 2.0 - so be patient.

This way you will end up with a FRESH IOS INSTALL and all your mail/settings/data/apps/fotos... from your TimeMachine Backup.

I absolutely recommend this upgrade because of the exceptional performance gains when using fotos, garage band, motion, final cut pro x, imovie - BIG SMILE!!!

...just do it!...

Martin Schober - Reply

To get rid of the "HDD FAN PROBLEM" I installed HDD FAN CONTROLL app from EXIRION.NET. It´s free and does the job quite well!

Martin Schober - Reply

Thanks for the instructions! :-)

I successfully swapped my iMac's original 1 TB Seagate HDD with a 2 TB Seagate SSHD and everything went smoothly. Prior to swapping the drives, I cloned my original drive to the new drive using Carbon Copy Cloner (https://bombich.com/). After I installed the new drive, my iMac booted up with no issues. I noticed my fan was running continuously so I installed the SSD FAN CONTROL app from EXIRION.NET. I ran this app and set the Hard Disk fan to SMART mode and the fan slowed down to a quiet speed.

Scott Knaub - Reply

Replaced broken stock drive with 2TB Western Digital Gold and OWC In-Line Digital Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable for iMac 2011 (model # OWCDIDIMACHDD11) using this procedure. You definitely do not need to remove the whole screen. Just lift the top edge, remove a single cable (the vertical sync cable) and then prop the screen up on both corners - the idea of using two BIC pens worked for me. All worked fine, no fan speed issues.

Kevin Ryan - Reply

Hi, I've three questions:

One, if one is putting in an SSD is replacing the EMI foam necessary? One, it won't touch the chassis with an SSD mounted, and, I wonder if it's only needed for spinning drives?

Two, when replacing drive and using the OWC/MacSales thermal connector cable. getting that cable tucked in inside the inner frame, it's difficult to do without dislodging the wireless antenna connection leads. Is there a trick to doing this without knocking one of these sensitive lead connectors off?

Three, the display data (ZIF) cable seems somewhat imprecise to reconnecting it. It's not a positive click or lock into place. I'm sure the metal clip that retains it needs to be pushed back down, but it's reseating seems so tenuous that I usually boot the computer up before screwing down the display, just to make sure it works. Is there any sure fire way of making sure this cable is reconnected right when putting it back together? The other cables all seat nicely and you know they are either connected or not

Lewis - Reply

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