Introduction

Use this guide to replace your optical drive.

Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.
  • Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.

  • This screw is captive in the access door.

  • Remove the access door from your iMac.

PH2 head necessary to remove screw.

airshack - Reply

  • The glass panel is fixed onto the front bezel with fourteen magnets around its perimeter.

  • Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.

  • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent such as Windex.

Save $15 dollars and use a plunger. Works perfectly.

Michael Ybarra - Reply

Even better and more elegant: go to a household shop and buy two transparent plastic bathroom baskets with two suction cups each. I found them in Xenos in the Netherlands (maybe also in Germany).

freed - Reply

Perhaps not so elegant but equally effective without any adverse effects to either... try a vacuum cleaner.

Andrew Dobson - Reply

Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.
  • Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.

  • The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.

  • Be meticulous about cleaning the LCD and the inside face of the glass panel before reinstallation, as any fingerprints or dust trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the display is on.

The glass panel is somewhat thin and should come away quite easily without much force so be gentle.

adamngordon - Reply

Just an FYI - my glass panel did not line up perfectly when reinstalled. Off by just 1mm. May take another attempt at it later, but does not interfere with the iSight camera. Only someone with an eagle-eye (like me) will notice it's not perfect.

ajpfl - Reply

To reinstall the glass, I lined up the bottom edge first, then pivoted the top in. The magnets pulled it quickly into place.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

I didn't want to use such small suction cups.. so I got suction bathroom handles from Home Depot. Very sturdy and to me, safer choice.

Gail - Reply

Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:
  • Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:

    • Eight 13 mm T8 Torx screws

      • Alternatively, you might have six 13 mm and two 25 mm T8 Torx screws

    • Four 25 mm T8 Torx screws

      • Alternatively, you might have two 25 mm (outer) and two 35 mm (inner) T8 Torx screws

I only had two 25 mm T8 Torx on my model. (The two inner orange circles as shown in the diagram.)

stevejansen - Reply

I don't know if this is different but i am in the process of disassembling a 24' imac emc: 2134. i have only: (2) 25 mm T8 screws the inner two on the bottom of the screen. I have (4) 13 mm t8 screws the outer most holes on the bottom and the 2 holes on the right side of the monitor above the drive entrance and the remaining holes are (6) 11 mm t8 screws

ccarter314 - Reply

I have the same screws as ccarter on a 2211 except on the bottom row there are only 4 screws total, the longer ones go in the middle two.

maccentric -

The Torx set I bought from ifixIt is well worth the money. My screw heads in this step were T9 not T8. THe T8 bit was too sloppy in the screwhead and there was a risk of rounding the slots. Having the option to go a size-up was perfect.

Troy - Reply

My 2211 has a different screw configuration.

2 - 32mm long screws towards the middle of the bottom edge

4 - 18mm long screws (2 at the corners of the bottom edge and 2 along the right edge)

6 - 13mm screws along top and left edges

christian - Reply

I have the same screws as Christian. The key is to make sure all screws are flush to the surface, so that the glass can be held up by the magnets.

Kelvin Lau - Reply

On mine, for the red circles, I had the six 13mm Torx plus two 25mm Torx. It's not indicated in the picture here, but the 25mm Torx went on either side of the optical drive.

JD Fox Micro - Reply

I marked next to each hole with a pencil "S, M or L" to indicate which length screw goes where. No guess work on reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

The front bezel is still attached to the iMac by the microphone cable. Gently lift the front bezel from its top edge off the rear case. It helps to use your thumbs to push down very gently on the corners of the display.
  • The front bezel is still attached to the iMac by the microphone cable.

  • Gently lift the front bezel from its top edge off the rear case. It helps to use your thumbs to push down very gently on the corners of the display.

  • Once the top edge of the front bezel has cleared the rear case, rotate the front bezel toward the stand and lift it off the rear case.

  • When reinstalling the front bezel, start at the lower edge and make sure it is flush with the rear case before lowering the top edge onto the iMac.

The microphone cable must be disconnected BEFORE rotating the bezel towards the stand.

Also, the bezel covers the sides of the case, not just the front. This isn't obvious from the pictures.

wallace - Reply

Looking at the meaning of the LEDS

i've got 3 LEDS on but i don't get a chime or the screen.

i am going to check the inverter voltages but can only find info for the 20" macs iMac Intel 20" EMC 2210 Power Supply Output Voltage Test

does anyone know where i can get info for the 24"

samraby - Reply

i have the same thing, 3 LEDs on but no chime and no screen.

what is the fix? and problem?

Bill -

I'm in the same position. 3 LED's, No chime, no life in the screen, Optical drive starts up but no other signs of life i.e.:fans also don't start up.....

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!!

Dominik - Reply

Disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.
  • Disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.

  • For the front bezel to sit properly, be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.

I didn't disconect the cable. I was working on a large table that allowed me to carefully flip the bezel upside down and rest it that way with the cable connected through the entire process.

fulker - Reply

I also skipped disconnecting the microphone cable. I have a large table and I stacked some books next to the iMac. There was plenty of cable for the bezel to fold nicely over the top of the iMac.

mikkorongas - Reply

I needed to move the bezel away, so disconnected the cable. On reassembly found that the pins had pulled out of the plastic housing. Need to know orientation of the 3 wires in the housing.

prreitz - Reply

I used the floor instead of a table and left the cable connected.

Frank Carrano - Reply

Disconnect the LCD temperature sensor by pulling the connector straight out of its socket on the logic board. If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board.
  • Disconnect the LCD temperature sensor by pulling the connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board.

The temp sensor on my EMC2134 is located underneath the LCD and the cable is not very long. I propped up the LCD to facilitate removal.

Pierre Scerri - Reply

I got an error for the LCD thermal sensor(4sns/1/40000000: TLOP-130.000), and now the fan runs full tilt all the time! I guess I may have damaged the cable...

morgandan - Reply

there are two connections together; picture does not make that clear or which one to remove.

jay - Reply

You have to be extremely careful when pulling out the LCD Temp connection as it doesn't want to come easy. I almost pulled the entire connection off the logic board using too much force. I therefore, used a pair of hemostats to grab the male end (the very top of the connector) and used a small screwdriver to hold the base of the connection in-place (female end attached to the logic board) in order to pull the connector apart.

tpolak - Reply

There apparently is a variant of the EMC2134, like Pierre Scerri said. It has its LCD temp sensor underneath the LCD; the thin wires are about 5 in / 13 cm long and taped to the back of the LCD, and only about 2 in free, so lift the LCD gently.

There is a connector on the place where the LCD temp connector is on the iFixit photo, but in this variant it is marked 'CPU FAN' and there is no reason to disconnect it.

The logic boards in my computer are black, not blue.

goosveen - Reply

Remove the two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.
  • Remove the two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.

When they assembled my imac, they forgot to put the two torx screws in. Saved me about 10 seconds. The cable was quite secure and easily popped on and off.

ljheppner - Reply

I used surgical tweezers to put place these two tiny screws back in without dropping them into the computer.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

In my situation, the T6 (fixit's version) got the screw stripped. I'm eyeing the screws with suspicions. It's way too tight than necessary that I have difficulty to unscrew it. Will add comment if I ever get successful to get it out somehow.

xa0s - Reply

Okay. It was extremely difficult. I had to use precision screw (1.4 m/m). It worked on one of the screw. The other one... I was forced to use a hexagon bit at 1.5 size to a success with extreme precision and careful maneuver. I just hope nobody else experiences this as much as I have. Good luck.

xa0s - Reply

Disconnect the display data cable connector from its socket on the logic board by pulling the attached plastic tab towards you  and away from the iMac.
  • Disconnect the display data cable connector from its socket on the logic board by pulling the attached plastic tab towards you and away from the iMac.

For my 2134 iMac, I ended up just (carefully) putting my fingers on the edges of the little board and (gently) pulling up. Did the trick for me (I couldn't get anything to happen when I pulled up on the plastic tab, which I did also have trouble finding purchase on)

Emmett Framson - Reply

Lay the iMac down on a table before you remove the LCD so that it doesn't fall. Remove the eight 12 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case.
  • Lay the iMac down on a table before you remove the LCD so that it doesn't fall.

  • Remove the eight 12 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case.

  • Lift the right side of the display panel a few inches up from the iMac.

    • Do not lift the LCD all the way up; there are still connectors attaching the LCD to the internals.

In the photo it appears you're lifting it from its right edge. Sue

(sue.w.clark@gmail.com)

suewclark - Reply

When you fit the LCD back be aware that the microphone cable may be hidden between it and the case and make sure it's free. I had to back track a few stages when I couldn't find it.

suewclark - Reply

With the LCD lifted, disconnect the LCD cable by pulling down. The LCD cable is attached to the underside of the power supply; be careful where you put your fingers so you don't get zapped by a capacitor.
  • With the LCD lifted, disconnect the LCD cable by pulling down.

  • The LCD cable is attached to the underside of the power supply; be careful where you put your fingers so you don't get zapped by a capacitor.

  • On reassembly, you may find it helpful to remove the power supply, reconnect the LCD power cable, and then reinstall the power supply.

    • Alternatively, the LCD power cable can be disconnected from the LCD, rather than the power supply.

I was unable to disconnect the LCD cable, possibly due to fear of breaking the connector. I was able to swap drives with it connected. The iMac was placed on its rear cover on a large table, leaving plenty of workspace to rotate the LCD panel to the left side while still connected. The screen will lay at an angle on the case edge. I verified the LCD cable was clear of the case endue and not pinched.

This also avoids going near high power capacitors with your fingers.

stevejansen - Reply

I found it easier to disconnect the LCD cable at the LCD end after lifting the black tape.

Pierre Scerri - Reply

Fully agree. Easiest is to remove cable from LCD in stead of trying to pull it off the board

Rik Veldhuizen -

Remove cable from the LCD Display not the board

Fully agree with others. It is easiest is to remove cable from LCD display instead of trying to pull it off the board. It comes off the board very easily, but it is difficult to put it back onto the board. It is easier to snap the cable bad onto the LCD Display itself.

ToddR -

I could not get the LCD power cable disconnected from the board - it is on really hard and there is no way to leverage it off without breaking something. My solution was to leave the screen attached and rotate it away from the work area/computer (granted you need a work surface that is large enough and a soft surface to place the screen on). If you try this method, be careful that you keep clear of the screen during the remaining steps - should not be hard.

It seemed that if I ever got the connection unplugged, there would be no way to get it back under and re-attached properly.

This is probably the toughest step of the entire process that needs a workaround.

ljheppner - Reply

On re-assembly, Have something ready to rig the display! reconnecting the lcd cable is the most difficult step in the whole procedure

bootsch - Reply

I agree with the previous poster, this is indeed the most challenging part. I ended up removing the screws for the IC board that this connector connects to. This allowed me to pull the board up an extra inch and plug in properly. 4 screws, 120 seconds, done.

orders651 - Reply

As said previously, reconnecting the data cable is really difficult and I managed to bend a pin. Thanks to good support from ifixit staff I managed to bend it back - not sure how as it's so small. Unscrewing the IC board is a good idea. If I ever had to do this again I would avoid disconnecting this cable and just move it out of the way, or disconnect it at the other end as previously suggested.

suewclark - Reply

LIke others mentioned, this was the most difficult step because of the awkward angle. Working alone I managed to get it off but found it much harder to line it up properly for reattachment. What I ended up doing was getting someone to hold the the LCD (resting on the left side, perpendicular to the iMac which was laying down) and I removed the 4 screws that hold the power supply in place. Removing those screws allowed me to lift the power supply a couple inches which made it so much easier to reattach. I wish I had done that when I was trying to remove the cable during disassembly. Good luck!

alexflood - Reply

This was near impossible to remove as there is no room to grip the connector and no easy way to wedge something in there to help remove it. I felt like giving up but the hard drive removal and swap was so easy you just need to get someone to hold the screen for 10 minutes. Don't try removing the cable ... you most likely will get frustrated unnecessarily.

Troy - Reply

I did not disconnect the LCD power cable as others recommended. I simply rotated the LCD to the side, rested on table. This worked really well for me and did not have to be concerned about reattaching this complex connector.

ajpfl - Reply

I agree with others. Just lift display and lean against a prop, perpendicular to table. No need to disconnect, which is error prone.

dkulp - Reply

Les commentaires sont tous en anglais à cette étape, et j'aurai dû faire l'effort de les lire avant de perdre 1h à cause de ce connecteur. Effectivement, il n'est pas nécessaire de débrancher le connecteur de l'écran, car c'est une vrai galère à remettre sans risque de le casser. On peut donc laisser l'écran branché, à la verticale, soigneusement incliné sur un mur, l'imac toujours posé sur le bureau. J'espère que ce message sera utile, car j'aurai bien aimé qu'on me le dise avant !

Nicolecameleon - Reply

+1 for removing the LCD cable from the screen side, not the mac side.

Not removing it, depending on the lenght of the cable which doesn't seem to be fixed, might not be an option for everybody.

Michael Sacchi - Reply

Remove cable from the LCD Display not the board

Fully agree with others. It is easiest is to remove cable from LCD display instead of trying to pull it off the board. It comes off the board very easily, but it is difficult to put it back onto the board. It is easier to snap the cable bad onto the LCD Display itself.

ToddR - Reply

This is really a good way to break the cable! Avoid the stress easily by removing the four screws (T-9) holding the video board down, then lift the edge near the cable before removing. Also, the cable is easily reattached to the board with these four screws removed. Reattaching without doing so is time consuming and quite difficult. This approach is easier than removing the cable from the LCD.

airshack - Reply

Reconnecting the LCD Connector was the only challenging part of this procedure. I must have bent the pins on the LCD connector when taking it off so was unable to reattach. I ended up taking off a bracket that was adjacent to the LCD connector as well as the other end of the cable....O I disconnected these 2 pieces and was able to examine the other end of the LCD connector I was able to bend the pins back into place and the connector snapped back into place. The display works and the hard drive works as well. Thanks iFixIt!

csimmons20 - Reply

I wish I had read your comments about not disconnecting the LCD. It was really hard disconnecting and connecting it back was !@#$. I managed to twist some of the pins so in the end I had to unscrew the board, twist the pins back and plug the cable. When I restarted, I really thought that it was never going to work. So a down point for not pointing to comments at step #11. Otherwise great tutorial.

Alain Bartolo - Reply

Too difficult to re-connect afterwards. Accidentally, one pin was bended when re-plugged. I ended up unscrewed the power board, and fixed the pin. Re-connect and OK.

Nick Lam - Reply

I found a far easier way. Just gently turn the screen 90° to one side and don't disconnect the cable! If all you are doing is replacing the HD, there's plenty of room without disconnecting the cable. At least on my machine the cable is flexible and I didn't have any problem making room. Way, way easier.

baslking - Reply

Thanks for the suggestion to remove the IC board. This was indeed the easiest for me, after spending 15 minutes trying to reconnect the cable.

Sccoaire - Reply

I didn't disconnect the LCD cable. I stacked some books on the side and put a blanket on them. I was then able to fold the screen next to the computer LCD still connected. Should some iMacs have a shorter cable this may not be an option to everyone. Thanks for good tips everyone.

mikkorongas - Reply

I also did not remove LCD cable. Just rotated the LCD away and propped it by the edges with the plastic inserts from the box my new drive came in. Plenty of room to get to the HDD.

EBS - Reply

No need to remove the LCD panel.

I agree this is the toughest step in the process — and the most unnecessary. I was able to rotate the panel out of the way without disconnecting it, placing a cloth between the chassis and the panel now leaning against it to prevent any inadvertent damage.

Tim Murtaugh - Reply

As others have stated, disconnecting the inverter cable from the power supply first is NOT the way to go. I ended up damaging the cable trying to get it out before I went to disconnect it from the LCD panel end instead. Much easier to do and much less prone to damaging the cable or it's insertion socket.

The guide needs to be updated and the suggestion to pull the inverter cable downward from the power supply removed. It is not a good idea and will cost you at least a few days and $10 to replace the cable should something go wrong. Please update this guide.

multimediavt - Reply

Get the male part out of the female fitting is a standard problem with boards. There are pulling/clamping devices you can get at electronics stores to pull the fitting out. They are like fuse pullers many car fuse boxes are equipped with. IFixit should sell them with the kit. I did it all without any problems, formatted the drive and then installed the operating system and defeated Apple who wouldn't even consider replacing the drive in my "obsolete" machine which my wife now uses instead of a crappy Dell PC.

peterhaggstrom - Reply

Continue to lift the LCD from the right side. Remove the LCD.
  • Continue to lift the LCD from the right side.

  • Remove the LCD.

Much simpler to remove the LCD cable at the LCD insertion site, rather than trying to remove it as suggested in the manual. Reinsertion is also less traumatic.

Eric Shaffmaster - Reply

If necessary, remove the pieces of tape securing the hard drive/optical drive thermal sensor cables to your iMac.
  • If necessary, remove the pieces of tape securing the hard drive/optical drive thermal sensor cables to your iMac.

  • Disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the logic board by pulling its connector toward the top of your iMac.

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Remove the two fine-thread 7 mm T10 Torx screws securing the optical drive to the rear case.
  • Remove the two fine-thread 7 mm T10 Torx screws securing the optical drive to the rear case.

Mine were T8 Torx

Frank Carrano - Reply

Lift the free end of the optical drive slightly out of the rear case.
  • Lift the free end of the optical drive slightly out of the rear case.

  • Remove the two 3.5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the optical drive connector to the optical drive.

My EMC 2134 had no torx screws on the ODD. The SATA connector plugs straight into the ODD.

Pierre Scerri - Reply

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the optical drive connector and the body of the optical drive. Twist the spudger to separate the connector from the optical drive.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the optical drive connector and the body of the optical drive.

  • Twist the spudger to separate the connector from the optical drive.

  • It may be necessary to work from alternating sides of the connector until it is disconnected.

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Lift the optical drive out of the rear case and pull it away from the side of the rear case to release the strip of EMI tape attached to its surface.
  • Lift the optical drive out of the rear case and pull it away from the side of the rear case to release the strip of EMI tape attached to its surface.

  • The optical drive thermal sensor is still attached to the underside of the optical drive.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Brittany McCrigler

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