Introduction

Upgrade your hard drive for an increase in storage space.

  • Before beginning, unplug your iMac and lay it on a soft surface as shown.

  • Stick a suction cup near each of the two top corners of the glass panel.

  • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent.

Change "Before beginning, unplug your iMac and lay it on a soft surface as shown." to "Lay your iMac on a soft surface as shown"

Henry Barnett - Reply

my imac power sullye not powering

tahir - Reply

imac 2544 2.5 core i5 i touched the motherboard to supply and it spark now it is not powering

please tell me the directions

thanks witting for answering .

tahir - Reply

Im sorry to say, If it sparked when you touched it your motherboard s now fried. You need a new one.

Robert Wacker -

Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

kctipton - Reply

Success replacing the stock ST31000528AS with a STBD3000100 (Dead 1TB to new 3TB, both Seagate). First try. Using another Mac and a quality Firewire 800 cable, I formatted it using Target Disk mode, 2 partitions (defaults, except I made the first one bigger than the second). To the second, smaller one, I copied a bootable Install OS X Mavericks partition. Tried to boot. It booted, and I installed; nary a glitch. (Running the Installer over Firewire would have been faster, but I didn't want to reboot this machine.)

See part 2 below...

Matthew Elvey - Reply

(Part 2:)

I SKIPPED steps 6, 7 AND 8! Instead, after doing Step 5, I noticed I then had enough room and cable length to access the screws in Step 11 if I lifted the LCD up an inch or so, rotated it about 20-30 degrees clockwise and moved it a couple inches toward the base, and put it down. After removing them (Step 11), I propped up the LCD (with a spare spudger) and had enough room to do Steps 12, 13, and 14 without much difficulty. Felt safer/less work and risk than not skipping steps 6-8. No risk of the damage Ersan and Michael caused performing Step 7!

Matthew Elvey -

I just edited that step to add a note about the shortcut.

Matthew Elvey -

What the ???

Geoff Wacker has REJECTED my edit: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/history/ste...

I wonder why. What's the deal, Geoff? I mean I'd understand if I suggested folks didn't need the suction cups, as that could cut into iFixit's income stream, but what's wrong with suggesting that a few steps aren't needed? It worked for me; the EMC 2389 I fixed is humming along with a new 3TB HD I installed while skipping those steps.

Matthew Elvey -

I did not have to remove a single cable! After undoing the torx screws from the sides, I was able to rotate the LCD out of the way enough to reach all the screws holding in the ODD bracket. One of them was a bit challenging to get to, but I never felt that I was risking the cables by leaving them connected. Also, it wasn't totally clear, but you have to actually remove the ODD itself from the ODD bracket - 4 torx screws. The SDD mounts into the hard drive enclosure, then the enclosure is screwed into the bracket. Those holes (enclosure <-> Bracket) did not line up correctly for me, and I had to go with only three of them connected in the end. Seems to work fine.

cdansmith1 - Reply

Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

MaximBorzov - Reply

You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

Deepsurvival - Reply

That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

max damage -

Hello, I just need to replace a slightly cracked screen on my iMac. Where is it best to place the suction cups? Thanks in advance

michelemiller0 - Reply

No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

Nikolas Lintulaakso - Reply

Nails worked for me too

Rob Dale - Reply

Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

osienna - Reply

I have an odd question -- I want to remove the polarizer from the LCD. With some monitors this is trivial, others not so much. My question is whether it is bonded to the Liquid crystal, or whether it's loose, or cutting it with a razor blade would remove it. Obviously I'd like to know before I go to the trouble of dismantling the thing... Thanks. Paul

Paul Kwiat - Reply

Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel. Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.
  • Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel.

  • Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.

  • During reinstallation, be sure to meticulously clean the inside of the glass panel and the face of the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is turned on.

What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

Steve Speirs - Reply

Microfiber Cloth

Leonardo Fournier -

Remove the eight 8 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the outer case. The last two pictures are detail shots of each side of the display. The last two pictures are detail shots of each side of the display.
  • Remove the eight 8 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the outer case.

  • The last two pictures are detail shots of each side of the display.

8 vis, pas 2

Charles Daenens - Reply

On reassembly, it is REALLY HARD to align those screws, because of the field of the strong magnets that hold the glass cover on. I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I'd love to know what it is for future reference.

Peter Shenkin - Reply

Slightly lift the top edge of the display out of the outer case.
  • Slightly lift the top edge of the display out of the outer case.

  • Do not lift it too much. There are several cables attaching the display to the logic board.

When putting the display back I have resistance from the foam elements (on the top end where the iSight is) and have to press down really hard. Is that okay?

gm.konsortium - Reply

Well, stupid me put the 3.5" to 2.5" cage the wrong side up. ;)

gm.konsortium - Reply

Pull the vertical sync ribbon cable out of its socket on the LED driver board near the top left corner of your iMac. The vertical sync ribbon cable has a ZIF style end, but the socket has no lock or retaining flap. Simply pull the cable away from its socket toward the optical drive side of the iMac to disconnect it from the LED driver board. The vertical sync ribbon cable has a ZIF style end, but the socket has no lock or retaining flap. Simply pull the cable away from its socket toward the optical drive side of the iMac to disconnect it from the LED driver board.
  • Pull the vertical sync ribbon cable out of its socket on the LED driver board near the top left corner of your iMac.

  • The vertical sync ribbon cable has a ZIF style end, but the socket has no lock or retaining flap. Simply pull the cable away from its socket toward the optical drive side of the iMac to disconnect it from the LED driver board.

The vertical sync cable was snug initially and now is loose. I checked and the cable is intact. Has anyone had experience with making it fit better?

Rajan - Reply

Scotch tape on the upper side and sliding this in helped to secure the cable.

Rajan - Reply

Reassembly of this part was the closest I came to disaster on this project. I tried inserting the connector a few times without success, and when I looked it it the leads, which are fragile, were all mangled. I smoothed them out by hand as best I could and and reinserted, very carefully this time. The trick is that the tip of the connector should be pointed somewhat upwards when reconnecting.

I was pretty sure that when I was done, I would reboot but have no display; but fortunately, everything worked.

Peter Shenkin - Reply

Hi, I still have a question. What is the "Job" of the vertical sync ribbon cable. Thanks

Lutz Blum - Reply

So let’s say someone wanted to suck some of the dust off the back of the display before reassembly. Let’s just say that. Someone would likely suck this forsaken cable up into the vacuum tube then, wouldn’t they? They might. And if it were to oscillate in a rushing torrent of air, it might get munged? It might.

Here’s how you overcome such a disaster:

1) cut the end fresh, as close to the end as you can while cutting off any frayed end.

2) abrade the end gently, repeatedly, along the connector wire axis. I used emory paper. Your goal is to expose the copper conductors in the last 1/4” of the fragile evil wire.

3) Tape a small stiff cardstock to the back of the end of the connector. This is essential to press the connector wires into the connector.

4) Gently insert, taking special caution to not peel the copper off of the connector.

5) Tape that connector down deftly, without letting it move a millimeter and securing it for all time.

sydnius - Reply

Rotate the display out of the outer case enough to disconnect the LED backlight power cable from the LED driver board. Disconnect the LED backlight power cable by depressing the locking mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket (toward the bottom edge of the iMac). Disconnect the LED backlight power cable by depressing the locking mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket (toward the bottom edge of the iMac).
  • Rotate the display out of the outer case enough to disconnect the LED backlight power cable from the LED driver board.

  • Disconnect the LED backlight power cable by depressing the locking mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket (toward the bottom edge of the iMac).

Add Comment

Black Friday
Broken doesn't stand a chance.
Squeeze the two display data cable connector arms together to unlock it from its socket on the logic board.
  • Squeeze the two display data cable connector arms together to unlock it from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the display data cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.

in Step 7, my connector (new 21.5 iMac - Dec 2010) was not attached that way and just came of easily.

erin - Reply

Aperte as duas exibição do conector do cabo de dados braços juntos para desbloqueá-lo de seu soquete na placa lógica.

Darlan Perira da Silva - Reply

I accidently broke the data cable socket on step 7. Any advice on what i should do?

Sam Tang - Reply

I feel pretty silly. I spent wayyyy too long trying to get these cables disconnected. Happy I found this guide; hopefully, I won't struggle with such simple things since you provide pretty good details! Thanks.

J.w. - Reply

Pas beaucoup de place pour déconnecter ce cable ! En essayant d'ouvrir trop l'écran pour passer mes "grosses mains" j'ai cossé le connecteur : je suis dans le caca :-( (et pourtant j'en fait des démontages !) Alors ATTENTION !!!

divers - Reply

Il vaut mieux déconnecter la partie du côté écran en premier (sous l'autocollant noir)

divers - Reply

Disconnect the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • If your fan is spinning full speed after completion, check this connection or the hard drive's thermal sensor cable.

This is important regarding the fan running full speed

http://blog.macsales.com/19617-diagnosin...

tobykirkland - Reply

Is there a way to test the power supply to see if it's dead?

professorminh - Reply

Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the outer case, minding any cables that may get caught.
  • Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the outer case, minding any cables that may get caught.

Add Comment

Before disconnecting the thermal sensor cable, take note of its orientation. It is extremely important to reinstall the connector reversed from the current orientation so the fans will not run at full speed.
  • Before disconnecting the thermal sensor cable, take note of its orientation. It is extremely important to reinstall the connector reversed from the current orientation so the fans will not run at full speed.

  • Disconnect the thermal sensor by pulling its connector away from the side of the hard drive.

  • During reassembly, be sure that the thermal sensor connector is connected to set of pins closest to the SATA connectors. If the fans spin at full speed, reverse the connector's position.

I don't understand how to reverse the thermal connector. There's only one way to insert it; unless they mean to reverse the grey and black wires? Confused, but hoping I don't have any fan issues.

Ben Dunkle - Reply

I had the same problem, i have the fan running at high speed, the connectors cannot be reversed. There is only one way to insert on either end.

timzane -

Apple used more than 1 brand of hard drive, so some temperature sensor connectors are different.

Andy - Reply

I still don't understand the instruction to reverse the connector. A photo would be helpful. Does this mean to take the connector and turn it upside down from how it was originally connected? What if the socket for the connector will only allow it to be inserted in one manner? I've changed out my hard drive and the fan is on high all the time, so something is wrong, though I thought I had followed the instructions carefully.

youcan - Reply

Did you previously have a Toshiba hard drive in your iMac?

Scott Dingle -

Didn't reverse. I changed a 500GB Seagate Barracuda to a 2TB Seagate Barracuda with no issues. It would have been helpful if this article had indicated the old and new drive.

Robert - Reply

To do steps 10 and 11 I had to do 12 and 13 first so I could get my hands on the connectors to pull them out. It's quite a tight squeeze to get your hands in otherwise as there is Amytal bar restricting your ability to pull them all the way out.

Jon Pick - Reply

I replaced the hard drive with an Samsung 840 EVO SSD. I used a Newer Technology Adaptadrive bracket (fit perfectly). Since the SSD doesn't have a temperature sensor, I used a suggestion on this forum to just short the sensor plug with a small piece of wire and tape the connector down out of the way against the iMac's case. Works perfectly, and the fans run at minimum speed (verified with http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont... ). I wouldn't recommend shorting the sensor for a mechanical hard drive, but for an SSD (which runs cool anyway) there shouldn't be any problem.

isonno - Reply

I perfectly agree with you, I replace too the origin HD with an Samsung EVO 840 1T, no shorting of the sensor, without problems. I just set the fan control with Macs fan control !

Filippo -

I am planning on upgrading & replacing the HDD with a SSD. I don't have the Apadtadrive bracket but I have this SABRENT 2.5 to 3.5 Inches Internal Hard Disk Drive Mounting Kit (BK-HDDH). Will this be fine? Here is the link to the product on Amazon (http://tinyurl.com/jkjnk6q)

rupeshbk -

I'm trying to replace Seagate 500Gb drive with a new WD 1Tb drive. Can not fit the thermal connector to the WD drive. How does one fit it??

Lee Harris - Reply

You need to replace the Seagate with another Seagate or use software to control the fans.

Scott Dingle -

On reassembly, I found there was no place on the hard drive to plug the connector in. Like u, I got a WD drive from iFixit, whereas the Mac came with a Seagate. So i just left the thermal connector dangling. Following startup, however, I am not getting fan noise.

Peter Shenkin -

Whoops. I take back what I said about no fan noise. Eventually it started back up....

Peter Shenkin -

Disconnect the SATA data cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive. Use the flat end of a spudger to help disconnect the SATA power connector from the hard drive.
  • Disconnect the SATA data cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to help disconnect the SATA power connector from the hard drive.

Add Comment

Remove the two 9 mm T10 Torx screws securing the upper hard drive bracket to the outer case.
  • Remove the two 9 mm T10 Torx screws securing the upper hard drive bracket to the outer case.

Add Comment

Slightly rotate the hard drive out of the outer case and lift it up off its mounting pins toward the top edge of the iMac.
  • Slightly rotate the hard drive out of the outer case and lift it up off its mounting pins toward the top edge of the iMac.

Add Comment

Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the upper bracket to the hard drive.
  • Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the upper bracket to the hard drive.

  • Remove the upper bracket from the hard drive.

Add Comment

Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the other side of the hard drive.
  • Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the other side of the hard drive.

Add Comment

Carefully peel off the piece of EMI foam attached to the front of the hard drive.
  • Carefully peel off the piece of EMI foam attached to the front of the hard drive.

  • Don't forget to transfer this to your new hard drive.

Add Comment

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

287 other people completed this guide.

48 Comments

Make sure the hard drive is of the same producer and it has a temp sensor connector. It's the only way to ensure that the heat sensor connector will fit into the hard drive's socket. If you don't plug in the temp sensor iMac's HDD Fan will rotate at its maximum speed, ie. over 6000 rpms - the noise is extraordinary!!!

David Relich - Reply

I replaced my internal HDD on my 215" iMac, but the iMac can't get access to the new hard disk's (Seagate Barracuda Green) temperature sensor. The HDD fan in the iMac steps up the RPM, and over about 15min reaches 6000RPM (VERY loud) and stays there until machine is shutdown or put to sleep.

I found a fix for this: http://hddfancontrol.com/HDDFanControl/H... - this tiny piece of shareware software allows the iMac to see the temperature of the drive via S.M.A.R.T., and therefore the fans react according to the correct temperature again!

Ian - Reply

One thing Andrew left out here, which I discovered on my own, is that even if you have the temperature sensor connected to the correct pins, you ALSO have to make sure that it is 'oriented' properly.

On the sensor connector (the little head that plugs into the hard drive) I saw a little white dot on one side, which it turns out, indicates that's the 'top'. So on my iMac, you have to make sure when you connect the temp sensor connector with the white dot showing.

Otherwise, I got the 6000 rpm fans.

robert Seith - Reply

Success. For any interested people, it's about an hour - going slowly. Now that I've done it, I assume I could do it again in 15 minutes if I had to.

Just have the right tools handy, the T 8 and T 10 bits in particular. Getting off the display screen is easy. The screws are harder than you'd think because of the magnets, but they're not that bad. I recommend having tweezers to help pull them and place them later on.

Overall, the thing that worried me most was the fan issue. And, so far... it's not an issue. I had a seagate 500 gb, and I replaced it with a seagate barracuda 3 tb hhd. Everything fit right into it, just as it did into the original. No optical sensor needed. No new sensor needed, period. No software needed. Nothing. Just put in the new hd, and it works. I'm very pleased, and very proud of myself. Good luck to anyone considering doing this upgrade. You can do it, really.

Kevin - Reply

It's a pretty straightforward procedure. Took less than an hour. I replaced the 500GB Seagate Barracuda with a Seagate Barracuda 2TB, model ST2000DM001. So far, after about 30 minutes of use, it's working great, and I haven't had the fan problem, but we'll see what happens.

Kevin's advice about the tweezers for extracting and inserting the screws that attach the display to the case was right on (although I used a small pliers instead).

Before you begin the replacement procedure, I highly recommend putting the new drive into a hard drive dock, and restoring to it from a Time Machine backup. Try booting off the new drive once to make sure it works. Then, when you swap the new drive for the existing internal drive, it'll be ready to go with no further effort needed.

eshienbrood - Reply

The removal of the screen (step 1&2) can easily be done with just a normal plunger. No need to go and buy suction cups.

Jon Ingi - Reply

I discovered that using some of the many iTunes cards that for packrat reasons I throw in my desk drawer can be used to carefully side in between the glass and the case. Once You get one in leave it there and use another to advance across the top. With 4 cards in place I was able to get the glass far enough off that I could then remove it. (It astounds me when I add those cards up how much I’ve spent) Going to the less expensive iTunes & App Store model was a stroke of genius.

Bill Wilson -

Screen removal was easy with the suction cups. I replaced my Western Digital 500GB blue drive by another Western Digital Blue 1TB because I thought I'd avoid the fan issue but finallythe fan started running at 6000rpm. I ended up buying the software at http://www.hddfancontrol.com/ to correct the issue.

Steven Vandal - Reply

I installed an SSD drive and because there's no thermal sensor connection on it, I used SSD Fan Control (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/), which is free, to set the fan to a quiet level.

Whole thing works like a charm... revived a 5 year old iMac!

Mike Saltsman -

Anybody here knows anything of update to SSD? I can't find any tutorial on the net.

T

Thomas Olsson - Reply

What kind of update?

Scott Dingle -

I replaced my 500GB Hitachi drive with a 1TB Samsung 840 EVO SSD yesterday. I have only two significant remarks:

# To fit a 2.5" SSD in the 3.5" HD bay, you must use some kind of brace/adapter. Some SSDs can be bought in kits which include an adapter; mine didn't, so I bought a Deltaco brace.

# There's no connector for the apple temperature sensor on the SSD. You must either disable the apple fan control or buy an external sensor.

** You can disable the fan control by short-circuiting the sensor cable. This fools the apple fan control into believing the drive is forever cool. This is what I did.

** You can install some kind of software which overrides the apple controls. I did this, too, using Macs Fan Control.

** You can attach an external sensor on the SSD and connect the sensor cable to it. I would have liked to do this, but I couldn't find any reliable information on which sensor to buy.

lenborje -

Thomas, see my previous comment.. It works like a charm, no issues.. just make sure you use something like SSD Fan Control (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/) otherwise it'll be running at 6k RPM.

Mike Saltsman -

Could someone tell me what are the signs of a damaged vertical sync ribbon cable ?

I have backlight issue: extinctions.

Only occurs when Energy saver is on (!??).

Bernstein - Reply

I called Seagate July 22 2013 . They claim that " Seagate never made this HD and it was modified by apple " They also insisted the Sensor connector was a " Jumper option block " . Also they have no replacement telling me " Any SATA Seagate would work . I also called many retail HD sellers and all gave me the same incorrect info . I even sent photos of the HD connector and the MB connector and all insisted it was only a Jumper block and all HDs have them . So much for Tech Support . I did find some original Apple HD for $ 225 to $ 400 . I installed a standard HD and will try the Software Speed Control described in this fine iFixit guide .

To pull the front plastic lens I used the Windshield mount from a GPS .

David Anthony - Reply

It is not necessary to remove any connectors or cables from the LCD to the MB . Just lean the LCD back about 5 inches . Use a 1/4 inch ratchet wrench with a 1/4 socket to hold the Torx bits , or a short Torx screwdriver . Unscrew the 2 HD screws , lean the HD up out enough to disconnect the 3 connectors . I do not like the Orange suction cups also . They are very stiff and also have a metal screw in the center off the cup which might put a mark on the plastic lens . I use GPS car windshield mounts . The lens is very easy to pull off . The locater pins on the lens Bezel are poorly attached and may fall off . Super glue them back on or just forget them as they are really made to make factory assembly faster .

David Anthony - Reply

Fan Control Software : I used this Free software for controlling the speed of my fan . It seems to work after 5 hours of testing . Link to site ( http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ ) .

David Anthony - Reply

I also try this software, but I'm not happy with it! The fan is always hearable and runs always with min 1100 rpm. Before the HDD replacement I rarely heard a noise from the fan!

And how can I now uninstall this software?

kevinhagmann -

Upgraded to a 2TB, 8GB SSD combi from Seagate - as recommended same company as the HDD which was in the iMac - scary to do but with a little help (holding the screen whilst I unplugged the cables, and reverse) it worked very well indeed - bought the tools through Ama(XXX)on in the UK and the company charged a fortune - did not find the iFixit EU shop which has the same prices as the US one

GREAT job with these instructions - would have had to rely on a sloppy shop to do it otherwise...

Only getting back to status quo ante is proving difficult due to not quite working time-machine.

Mathis - Reply

I had the same experience as eschienbrood- replaced a 500 GB Seagate with a 1 TB Seagate; took about an hour, and would've gone faster if I hadn't dropped one of the screws for the monitor into the chassis. Replacing the 8 screws for the monitor was by far the hardest part of the operation. The heat sensor for the HD went in the same way as it was on the old drive, and there are no fan problems.

Ken Russell - Reply

great guide ! I replaced my four year old 500Gb classic hard drive by a Samsung SSD 840 EVO 500GB. The HD's internal temperature sensor I replaced by a original DVD drive sensor (ordered @ Applecomponents.com / Apple part# 922-9229, Hard Drive Temp Sensor Cable 2009/2010 iMac 21", 27", $20.81) and mounted the SSD in two 2,5" > 3,5" adaptor brackets. Be careful, use ESD protection when working inside your iMac. First I put a "ESD protection bubble plastic sheet" on the table, then on top aluminum foil for the display and the glass panel. The iMac was on a real ESD carpet on top of the (ESD) plastic and grounded.

Jean - Reply

Once I had successfully completed all the above steps I connected an external USB DVR drive to my imac and turned it on and it booted up the installation DVD no problems straight from the external DVD drive. I have heard contradicting things about whether OSX we boot up from an external drive or not but mine did no problem.

The next thing to bare in mind is that when you boot up your machine, if you want to do a fresh install onto your new hard drive you will need to go to Disk Utility and click on your new drive in the left hand tree and select partition. Select 1 partition and then select options which will allow you to select GUID, click ok and then click on apply and your hard drive will be formatted. Now when you try to install the OS you will be able to select your newly installed hard drive.

My factory installed drive was a Seagate 1TB drive and I have just replaced it for a Seagate 2TB SSD/Sata hybrid.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/seagate-2tb-sa...

Jon Pick - Reply

This Guide works perfect for me. I've upgrade my MAC to a Samsung EVO 500 GB SSD without any problems. I also didn't use any additional HDD frame ore something else.

I use the original HDD frame (the little metal bar), drill in two new holes and then screwed the on the SSD Cause there isn't any movable part on a SSD therefore also no vibrations occurs. :-)

I solve the FAN@6000 issue like others here, with this free tool:

( http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ )

It also works perfect, cause it running as a service from the start of your MAC

Oliver Beck - Reply

About step 10 reversing the thermal cable. If its a Seagate Barracuda to be replaced the thermal-sensor cable needs to be modified to fit. I have replaced with Toshiba drives and they have two pins in the middle of the female connector.

Use a cutter to modify the cable to be able to turn it. Otherwise the fans will run at full speed.

Peter H - Reply

Hi Peter! I need to replace a Barracuda in my iMac mid 2011, and have found out about this annoying question of the thermal sensor. (theres a thermal sensor by OWC but it's not available in Argentina, unforntunately) Can you explain more clearly how to modify these pins ? And which HDD models would allowed such modifciation? Does it really work? Thanks!

Diego -

I've finished a HD replacement on my EMC 2308. Some notes from my experience:

-During reassembly, cables can easily get pinched, damaged.

-Mind well the fan issue. Err on the side of safety. I lost my LED Driver Board due to overheating. After HD replacement, screen did some brightness flickering- this is a warning sign that your board is overheating. React immediately. Up your fan RPMs or turn off computer. I played with my fan RPMs and had them ranging between 2000-2500 RPMs, but alas, it was not enough(my computing was non-intensive). A couple flickers, then 5 minutes later the screen went black for good. Burnt circuits on the board.

-If you do achieve 'major fail' status, there are lots of people parting these things out nowadays, check that auction site for boards and cables. Mind the details.

-Have a can of compressed air at the ready. Banish the dust, don't manage it.

-Also, a nice clean microfiber is handy.

-Respect the delicate nature of the machine's functions and Apple's particularities.

John Blue - Reply

Excellent directions. I just replaced the original 500 GB with a 1 TB and now I'm reloading the operating system. No issue with the temperature sensor orientation since the new drive and the plug are keyed and will only go in one way. Also, you really don't need any suction cups to remove the front glass. Just use a finger nail or anything somewhat soft, like a credit card, to raise it at one corner and then gently lift up and it will come away from the magnets very easily. Thank you for the great directions!!

paul - Reply

I successfully replaced my failed drive following this fantastic guide a few days ago and everything is running great! The entire process took me about an hour and that was with me working very slowly, making sure I followed all the directions and warnings in the guide.

Throughout the process, I was really concerned about the possible fan issue. So far... it has turned out to be a non-issue. My original drive was Seagate 500 gb, and I replaced it with a Seagate Barracuda 1 TB HD model ST1000DM003. Everything fit just like the original. No additional cables or no new fan control software has been needed . I just put in the new hd, and it worked. I have an additional 2010 iMac that will be needing this same upgrade soon and I hope to tackle that one after the holidays. :-)

Ed Swiatkowski - Reply

I just replaced the LED control board on my late 2009 21.5" iMac and everything worked well. Great guide! So now I am thinking about replacing the HD with a 1TB SSD, and also about putting in a 2nd smaller SSD in the optical drive bay. Can I control the fans for both of those with software? That seems to be the easiest solution, rather than messing around with shorting out the lead or trying to add a third-party sensor in some way. I have 16 GB or RAM on this puppy and if I can get SSDs in there I can see using this computer for another couple of years at least.

pgralen - Reply

This is what I did: I bought a WD Black (4T) and an enclosure for my old HD. First I put the WD disk in the enclosure and made a copy using CarbonCopy Cloner. The first copy failed somewhere during the night so I retried with all the energy/screen saving features off, network off and connected the enclosure directly to the iMac instead of using my usb hub. This went okay.

Then I opened up my iMac and swapped the disks. I put the thermal connector in a position away from the other connectors.

Then booted the iMac from the old HD, OSX does this automatically and selected the new WD as start up disk in the System Preferences. Rebooted.

iFixit!

martin38 - Reply

Hi guys,

really interesting staff here. I need your help for an issue I have with my Imac 2008. I had replace the HD ( i didn't do by my self, but in arepair center): they assured me that new HD is ok and they had done a complete back of the data included OSX, but once I've started mi imac it stay on White screen. What can i do: obviously I call them back and ask for help, but I need to understand if they had done a good job and if their are able to fix the issue.

hank you for your help

Enrico - Reply

Hi! Thanks for instructions! It took me almost one hour to replace a 500G HDD. Since it was a Toshiba 1TB, I had to follow Ian tip and used HDD Fan Control. After installing I just copied the backup I've done before via CopyCloner. It took almost 6 hours. Now I have plenty of space. Thank you guys at Ifixit!

macnando - Reply

Does it worth someone to change the drive with an ssd since the Late 2009 model doesn't support sata 3? I have a spare samsung 850 evo 250 gb ssd and i am thinking about it.

christos - Reply

Tempreture sensor from Other World Computing, https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDI...

Matthew Smith - Reply

Hey guys,

I'm about to replace my hard drive but I was wondering if I need to install the IOS software after the replacement is all said and done. I've done an SSD swap in the past with a 2010 Macbook pro and required a separate 10 gb memory thumb drive with the IOS software already downloaded onto it. Not sure if i need to do the same for the IMAC EMC 2308. Thank you

Sebastian Solis - Reply

Just replaced the hard drive on a late 2009 imac 21.5" because nothing was working. It started with a "beach ball" where I could not access anything then finally ended up with the Apple logo, a spinning wheel and a progress bar that would not load anything. So I figured it was the hard drive. Now the computer is working just fine, it comes on quick and the fan are spinning normally but, but, the DVD's (2) provided with the system when bought are being rejected from the super drive !!!! I follow the instructions on the DVD but to no avail, I get the flashing question mark and don't no now what to do....can anybody help?

Atara - Reply

Hey Atara, I'm in a similar situation. I replaced the hard disk on the same model iMac, but now when I boot up, the system doesn't detect the new SSHD. I just get the flashing "folder of death."

Putting the original drive back in yields the same result, so I think there is a problem where the drive's power cable connects to the PS. That's beyond my level, so it's at the tech shop now.

Both drives boot fine from a USB enclosure. It's not the drive.

As for your issue, not sure what's up there. The superdrive on our model crapped out a long time ago and it just takes up space now.

smith981 -

I successfully used this guide on my 2012 27". I was able to do only removing the 2 wire LCD cable. Replaced a Seagate with a Seagate 2TB, but still ended up with the fan issue. Mine starts out normal, & then after an hour cranks way up. At times it slows down and sounds like ikt will go back to near silent running, but then escalates again. Going to try HDD fan software or similar.

Bruce Rothenberger - Reply

Need HELP, please. Took a late- 2009 iMac 21" into Apple for technical help. The PC crapped out on me. Was told that the HD needed replacing. I just installed a WD 1 TB Blue IHD. It does not have the temperature sensor pins, however I thought I could work around that via a software program. I spent a considerable amount of time making certain all was connected correctly, however when I turned the PC on I have a white screen but I also have a blinking "?" (Question Mark). What to do??

smackerooster - Reply

You have a empty Harddrive. So there is no Operationg System - this is the "?".

Start with Snow Leopard / Lion CD.

Frederik Rischmann -

Have you OSX installed on your HD ?

Olivier Deschamps - Reply

Hello.. I have a 2010 imac 27, And this day I have installed a toshiba 3to without temp sensor, for the issue with the fan I have a 2009 macbook pro for parts, and many temp sensor, after little modification on the wiring, the chassis temp sensor of the macbook pro fit perfecly on the hdd with some tape, and no error, fan at correct speed, and could read temp of the hdd in macfan control.... Succes

Sorry for my language, i'm french.

sylvain78 - Reply

Well done Sylvain

Olivier Deschamps - Reply

Hello, I changed the HDD of my late 2009 21,5" iMac with a crucial 2"5 Crucial SSD. Everything seemed to be OK, but when I started the computer I got the "?" sign for non-reconnaissance of the SDD. After dismounting and control I observed the data cable was not properly fixed. Then I closed the machine and I put a USB key for starting.

After installation of MacOS Sierra, I only had to stop the incredible fan noise : Mac fan control is very efficient. You need to know the maximum acceptable temperature for the CPU. I have a "new" computer. Thanks for the tutorial.

Vanderlinden - Reply

You can buy a Temperature Sensor for 2009 iMac on Ebay. I did this and don't need any Tools for Fan Control.

Also replace the HDD with SSD and .. omg .. the iMac is around 30 times faster then before. O_o

Frederik Rischmann -

„short-circuiting the sensor cable“ works great! Thanks Lenborje!! :-)

Fabian - Reply

The original Apple temperature sensor consists of an ordinary NPN-transistor. The type is BC547 or the equivalent 2N3904.

You connect the base and collector leads to the black wire and the emitter lead to the grey wire. Then you use double adhesive tape to fasten the transistor to the hard drive a few centimeters from the drives circuit board.

Sven, Gotland

Sven Lundber - Reply

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