Introduction

Easily replace your BR 2032 lithium coin-cell PRAM battery.

Image 1/1: This screw is captive in the access door.
  • Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.

  • This screw is captive in the access door.

  • Remove the access door from your iMac.

isn't it actually pc2-5300s ?

grze - Reply

  • The glass panel is fixed onto the front bezel with fourteen magnets around its perimeter.

  • Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.

  • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent such as Windex.

At this stage and later handling the LCD I found thin cotton gloves helped to reduce smudges

john31 - Reply

My GPS unit's car mount suction cup worked nicely here - couldn't find any at the store and didn't want to wait for mail order!

Two cups would make it easier but one is fine if you place it in the center and are careful to pull the panel straight out.

Mathew Hendry - Reply

Why use suction cups when some finger nails will do the job nicely, though a plastic spudger might work too. Start at a top corner. Prize the glass away from the case and leave finger nails in. Move the other hand along the top edge and then with finger spread peel the screen cover away. Be careful not to twist plastic I suppose, but I've had no difficulties.

damianwise - Reply

3M Command Strip hooks in opposite corners is another fabulous option when suction cups are not available!

Adam McCombs - Reply

Tape works fine, here. Search for a YouTube video for a simple look-see.

Richard - Reply

I didn't have any suction cups, but my pencil sharpener (the kind that suctions to the table) worked great. I put it on the middle and lifted straight up.

Lisa Mac - Reply

For a quick 'n' dirty alternative "tool" for this step, take a look at IKEA's Stugvik suction hooks: they provide an excellent adjustable grip. Just used it to take apart an EMC2133. Cheers!

hadderakk - Reply

Suction cups usually available at Home Depot or Lowes, in the flooring section. (They're used to handle large ceramic & stone floor tiles.)

Griff in Fairbanks - Reply

Image 1/1: The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.
  • Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.

  • The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.

  • Be meticulous about cleaning the LCD and the inside face of the glass panel before reinstallation, as any fingerprints or dust trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the display is on. Placing the glass flat, inside face down, on a fresh aluminum-foil surface is a good way to keep it clean.

In order to avoid unnecessary smudges and what not I covered the LCD itself with some plastic wrap while doing the hard drive upgrade. When I reinstalled it all I needed to do was blow off a few dust particles.

robgendreau - Reply

While you are at it, it is worth cleaning out dust within the case to help with cooling - particularly around the fans and vents.

For the screen I used a lens cleaner from my camera bag. These have very fine fibers and won't leave detritus.

Mathew Hendry - Reply

Note that the front glass panel is quite light. When reassembling I found it impossible to get the LCD free of dust with the computer lying on its back. I had success with standing the computer up, tilting the LCD down as far as it goes, holding the glass panel upright in front of the computer (about 1 foot away), lightly spraying both the LCD and the back side of the glass panel with compressed air, and then attaching the glass panel (with the computer upright). It took me 5 tries before it was completely clean of dust once the front glass was on.

axel - Reply

Image 1/1: Eight 13 mm T8 Torx.
  • Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:

    • Eight 13 mm T8 Torx.

    • Four 25 mm T8 Torx.

On the 24" EMC2134 there are 3 screw sizes: 6x13, 4x20 & 2x30mm, particular note should be made of their location.

john31 - Reply

Note for the less experienced.. the case is plastic and the metal coarse thread screws will easily cut a new thread in the hole if you don't line up the screw in the original thread. Do this a few times and the hole will be stripped and the screw no longer tightens.

TIP:- place the screw in the hole and rotate BACKWARDS/counter clockwise (for RH threads) until you hear/feel it click/drop into the original thread then tighten the screw down. rotate it a couple times to get the feel of things. If there is any significant resistance you probably don't have the original thread.

This trick also works on the fine metal thread screws and can help avoid cross threading them.

HIH

Richdave - Reply

On the 24 inch iMac Model A1225 EMC #2134, the two T8 Torx screws in the middle are the longer of the four total bottom 25 mm screws. Just a note for reassembly.

bhoffs - Reply

This step is not really explained here with pictures. But you can check this same step in another guide to help you : iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 Front Bezel Replacement

thibault - Reply

I'll echo Thibault's comment. This guide does not actually tell you when and/or how to remove the bezel! Click on the other guide he linked to see the photo and instructions.

steven - Reply

Make sure you're ram slot at the bottom is open to remove front frame bezel

edgain99 - Reply

I think you're missing this step: With the iMac lying on its back screen facing up, grasp the aluminum sides of the bezel and carefully pull it straight up. Then disconnect the microphone cable. Took me a while to figure it out.

Richard Cacciato - Reply

Image 1/1: For the front bezel to sit properly, be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.
  • Disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.

  • For the front bezel to sit properly, be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.

I avoided this step by just flipping the housing over and having it lay flat on the table. The tape on mine was on really tight, and I risking ripping the wires out of the connector if I messed with it (I didn't have some really small scissors which might have helped removing it). I would suggest either securing the body of the iMac and the housing to the table you're working on, or somehow securing the housing to the body, so that it doesn't move around accidentally, since it's only hanging on by a very thin wire at that point.

robgendreau - Reply

Make sure you do not pull this apart by the wires. Have a firm grasp on the plastic parts. Do not force back together. It only goes back together one way. Also, it is crucial when placing the aluminum bezel back in place that this wire is out of the way. It often gets in the way and is easily damaged.

Kyle Freeman - Reply

CAUTION - To disconnect the cable, you'll need to support the bezel while you carefully extract slack microphone cable which is tightly tucked within the iMac. (I didn't have this guide's 'notes on' and missed robgendreau's warning - then inadvertently shifted the bezel and busted my microphone cable in this step.)

dagnew - Reply

Don't forget to pull the microphone cord out before you put the panel back on. Otherwise you will have to go back and remove screws to find that microphone cord

Melvin Hines - Reply

As robgendreau says, avoid this whole step by opening the bezel and laying it upside down above the iMac, still connected by the mic cord, just carefully. Then replace the battery, suck/blow out your dust, and carefully rotate the front bezel back over the iMac from where you removed it. No cord manipulation or damage at all!

recmsoj - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the PRAM battery out of its holder.

Note that when you replace the PRAM battery, the system date is reset to 2004.

After rebooting, verify if the date needs to be adjusted.

markp - Reply

Mine did not reset to 2004, or else reset itself correctly later before I looked at the date.

recmsoj - Reply

I suggest keeping your finger firmly over tab on the right side of the battery holder. It is extremely thin and must have become very brittle from heat and age. When the battery was pushed towards it and then pivoted up from the left, the tab snapped and pivoted up with the battery. Super glue and reinforcement time.

DwH - Reply

I ordered a Panasonic BR2032 based on this guide. It took 3 weeks to get it because the company sent a CR2032, and I made them take it back and send a BR. BR2032 in hand, I opened up my EMC 2133 iMac and discovered the PRAM battery was actually a CR2032. And it's a Rayovac (unless I mixed up my batteries). And actually the problem wasn't the PRAM battery, it was a bad cap (420v, 150μF) on the power supply. I just replaced the capacitor, and now I'm wondering: does the brand or chemistry of the PRAM battery even matter? It's hard to find a real answer. It would be appropriate to have that information here.

Fadfax - Reply

Look at this page https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CR2032_bat... CR2032 or BR2032 for the use in the iMac is egual.

Tim -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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