iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and 2118 PRAM Battery Replacement

Easily replace the coin-cell PRAM battery.

Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

  • Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac.

  • Both screws remain captive within the access door.

  • Remove the access door.

  • Before beginning the repair, unplug the computer and press and hold the power switch for 20-30 seconds, to discharge internal capacitors.

Edit Step 2 Front Bezel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2 Front Bezel  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws along the lower edge of your iMac:

    • Three 6 mm T8 Torx screws

    • One 8 mm T8 Torx screw (Right side of the RAM slot on 2105)

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand.

  • Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case.

  • Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.

  • Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.

  • Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.

  • It may be necessary to apply several layers of duct tape to the top of the access card to aid in releasing the latches. Or use two cards for the additional thickness.

  • If the bezel refuses to release, try lifting the lower edge of the front bezel slightly away from the rear case (detailed in the next few steps) and repeat the latch release process.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Lay your iMac stand-side down on a flat surface.

  • To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:

    • Use your thumbs to press in the RAM arms and hold the iMac down.

    • Use your index fingers to pull the small bridge of material on the front bezel toward yourself.

    • Pull the front bezel up with your index fingers.

  • Once the small bridge of material has cleared the RAM arms, lift the front bezel by its lower edge just enough to clear the bottom edge of the rear case.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Lift the front bezel off the rear case and rotate it away from the bottom edge of the iMac, minding the camera and microphone cables still attached to its upper edge.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • If necessary, remove the strip of tape covering the microphone cable connector.

  • The microphone connector is located near the inside of top edge of your iMac.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the microphone cable.

  • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the camera board.

  • The camera cable connector and socket are delicate and easily bent. Remove with caution.

Edit Step 8 Lower EMI Shield  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8 Lower EMI Shield  ¶ 

  • Peel up the lower EMI shield from the rear case.

  • It is only necessary to peel the shield up from three sides. Leave it attached to the display.

  • If you happen to rip the EMI shield, use a piece of foil tape to cover the tear.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Tape the EMI shield to the face of the display to keep it out of the way.

Edit Step 10 PRAM Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10 PRAM Battery  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the PRAM battery out of its socket.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and 2118 device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #1 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Cards

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Swapping in a new CPU and an SSD took me about 10 hours. I did take a dinner break and spent another hour rooting around in my garage to find my thermal paste. Still, this procedure can take a long time.

gordonhamachi, · Reply

I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...

ReneBruce, · Reply

the photo of latch is no longer there at Photobucket

rmshreffler,

When you put this back together, make sure you place the bevel latches UNDER/INSIDE the case frame.

robino, · Reply

Quote from ReneBruce:

I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...

Thanks, your picture helped me.

robino, · Reply

Rather than through the vent at the back. Ease the bottom of the front bezel away from the screen and then in the gap created between the screen and the front bezel, insert your card here and push up to release the latch. This is especially the method to use, if you have already tried everything else above, as you may have bent the latches, and you'll never get them to relase the conventional way.

Charlie, · Reply

On the 24 inch model, there are no latches. Instead the front bezel has four tabs which slot into the rear case. It's very easy to remove.

manfred, · Reply

Wow, I really got stuck on the bezel. I tried a credit card, even a flexible metal scraper, nope nothing budged. I finally got going with help from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzuBW3mu7... which the guy has the machine lying on its back, then you can carefully bend the front bezel up until you see the latches, and I got the scraper in front of the screen and un-did the latches that way. Onto the next step!

sleestack, · Reply

Replaced one of the redundant images of the card going into the slot, with the previously linked image of the latch itself. I was struggling to figure out how to get the thing open, thinking it was a latch that pushed *up* to the top of the system, but it actually pushes *forward* towards the screen. That accounts for the bending of the card, and the excess length required to insert it. After figuring that out, the case came off nicely.

Matt Falcon, · Reply

Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.

Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.

Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!

Zaphod, · Reply

This was perfect! I wish the original instructions mentioned the magnets.

I used magnets I pilfered from an old hard drive.

veganmo,

This is definitely the hardest part of this repair. I ended up doing what Charlie did and got it off after a lot of frustration.

aseisman, · Reply

The iMacs I've taken apart open simply with a magnet. I made a video to show exactly how the latch works inside. You do need a strong magnet like the hard drive internal magnet suggestion however they can be found in many places, just look for 'rare earth' or 'neodymium' and you'll find one. probably .3" cube would be big enough.

http://youtu.be/yvq035edr-I

there is the video that shows how the latch works. of course you may need TWO magnets to do both latches at the same time.

awr, · Reply

Save yourself some headache and get a magnet for this. I used these: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PWMVSI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sometimes just one will do the job, other times I've had to use all 4 together.

Much easier than trying to use a card.

maccentric,

sleestack is right on. The youtube vid is excellent for sliding the case right off without spudges and cards, etc. The vid's still there as of today, 9/30/2014. And the guy's foil removal is right on target, too. Very simple to replace the battery. I use this old 2006 computer with an old version of the PC program for Jobclock and only for that with Parallels 6 running the PC app. Don't want to upgrade or change anything at this point, going to milk it a couple more years. Got a nice big i5 for everything else. Oh, happy day.

infoghost, · Reply

Apple designed the latch to be released with a Magnet. That's it. That is the tool to be used.

Avoid frustration, hassles, wasted time: simply buy a "neodimio" Magnet.

Actually yes – IMHO It would have preferred iFixtit had mentioned a MAGNET to release the front Bezel, the credit card in an awkward and misleading (and not so smart) method.

I hope iFixit will change Step 3.

Giacomo Santerini, · Reply

i posted a note on the next page about disconnecting the microphone and camera cable. may help. reed it before disconnect.

sebalancea, · Reply

there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.

sebalancea, · Reply

Quote from sebalancea:

there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.

I didn't even use the wall, I just carefully pivoted the frame backwards and laid it on the table without disconnecting the wires

Bob, · Reply

Be careful. My microphone and camera cables looked a little bit different from this. My camera cable connector did NOT plug directly into the camera board (and I almost tried pulling the cable out of the board), but rather there was a cable to cable connector that was stuffed behind the monitor. I had to skip this step until the monitor was out. I have an early 2006 20" iMac.

avcaruso, · Reply

My Mac had a different camera board and it didn't appear that the cables could be detached. Leaving them in place and propping up the back of the case worked for me.

gordonhamachi, · Reply

I agree, no need to disconnect. I used a bunch of books (heavy books), to keep the monitor frame upright.

osfanatic, · Reply

I didn't see the need to tape the foil to the display (and I didn't want to get any sticky residue on the screen), so I skipped this bit with no problems.

Bob, · Reply

Quote from Bob:

I didn't see the need to tape the foil to the display (and I didn't want to get any sticky residue on the screen), so I skipped this bit with no problems.

I agree, and tape doesn't stick to the screen (I tried and the tape came loose before I was done)

Wizbang FL, · Reply

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