Introduction

Replace your broken display hinges to make your display open silky-smooth.

Lay your iBook upside down on a flat surface. Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
  • Lay your iBook upside down on a flat surface.

  • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free. If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again.
  • Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

  • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

  • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

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Remove the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.
  • Remove the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

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Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.
  • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

  • Make sure that you reconnect the keyboard cable before replacing the RAM shield.

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Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.
  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

"Close the display and flip the computer over." ...Seems like this instruction ought to be at the beginning of step 1 rather than step 2. In step one, the display is already closed and the computer flipped over. In step 2, you just keep it in this position and proceed from taking the battery out to removing the rubber feet.

margaretmiz - Reply

Don't use a screwdriver! I broke out one of them...

Creditcard, FIngernails would be fine.

hugobass - Reply

Well, if you've had an iBook G4 this long, odds are the little rubber feet are falling off just from being looked at. Except the battery mounted one. That sucker is the Devils' Tower of little rubber feet.

john pellino - Reply

Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.
  • Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

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Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.
  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

I bought & used the tool kit that you sell for this repair. The 3 rings came off when the screws came out--maybe because the screw bit holder is magnetized.

syl57 - Reply

Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.
  • Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.

  • The shorter screw is in the center of the computer.

I found T9's rather than T8's.

gdavids57 - Reply

I found 2mm allen screws in this location

rneumann - Reply

Remove the two 4.5 mm Phillips screws on either sides of the battery contacts.
  • Remove the two 4.5 mm Phillips screws on either sides of the battery contacts.

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Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.
  • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

  • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

When I did this, it helped to start around the disc drive

kleitscs - Reply

I find that a stiff nylon guitar pick will work if you don't have a spudger.

discodamon - Reply

I didn't find this step difficult at all. I have very short nails. I imagine a woman with long nails might have a problem grasping the rim and pulling up.

syl57 - Reply

Definitely read the rest of the instructions now. I struggled at first... I was using my ipad with the step by step instructions and didnt scroll down past this photo, so I didnt see the sequence of how to loosen the tabs. in fact I didn't know where the tabs might be... Only discovered that part when I reassembled it. The spudger didn't work for me. Too soft, I used mostly a thin very small screwdriver.

manyanelson - Reply

There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.
  • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

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Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.
  • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

Steps 7-9 were effortless for me.

syl57 - Reply

Continue to run the spudger around the front right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.
  • Continue to run the spudger around the front right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.

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There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.
  • There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

try using the spudger at the back near the vents. To be specific, on the left side of the hinge when faced upside-down. It's easier this way and it's described on Apple's official repair manual.

Jinhan Liu - Reply

then put a library card or something between the outer enclosure and the optical drive enclosure then pull from the other side to free the casing

Jinhan Liu - Reply

The front and sides of the lower case are now free.
  • The front and sides of the lower case are now free.

  • Turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.

  • It may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down.

Steps 10-12 were just as easy. I bought & used the Spudger, too.

syl57 - Reply

this required a little more force than I felt comfortable with at first.

Dave - Reply

Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.
  • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

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  • Have patience and follow the directions, the end result is up to you. In my case it worked. But I was a Technician TRW Automotive. and worked on Air Bag modules that was returned from customer's that needed them analyzed. I just retired after 26 years.

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Remove the following 4 screws from the bottom shield:
  • Remove the following 4 screws from the bottom shield:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips.

    • Two 7.5 mm Phillips.

This is where things got interesting for me. I had 4 missing screws! I don't know if it came from Apple like that (highly doubtful) or if it was returned to me without the screws from the Apple Store repair I had done to replace the Latch (more likely, huh?).

syl57 - Reply

Lift the bottom shield off.
  • Lift the bottom shield off.

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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the DC-In board, removing tape as necessary.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the DC-In board, removing tape as necessary.

Be careful here as the actual DC silver connector is raised from the chipboard so once you remove the screws use the spudger to gently lift out the DC IN board itself. There's some rubber casing around the silver connector too which got caught on the plastic casing of the laptop which required a bit of gentle poking to get free...

loughlin - Reply

Again, I was missing a screw here--the left one! The process of removing this part was not a problem.

syl57 - Reply

Is it necessary to remove DC cable?

rickyzhang - Reply

@rickyzhang Yes, in order to remove the top case, this is required.

CL Johnson - Reply

Deroute the cable from around the optical drive, removing tape as necessary. Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board and angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.
  • Deroute the cable from around the optical drive, removing tape as necessary.

  • Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board and angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.

Also, once I removed it, I thought there was more to do. It happened so quickly and effortlessly! I kept wondering when the difficult and trying part was coming. I was kind of disappointed by the lack of the challenge, but that's OK! The difficult part came from reversing the directions and getting the shield back in place. A cable covering on the back edge under the shield slipped out and prevented the metal tabs from seating correctly. Once I figured that out, it was smooth sailing!

syl57 - Reply

Remove the two 3 mm Phillips screws inside the left edge of the battery tray.
  • Remove the two 3 mm Phillips screws inside the left edge of the battery tray.

    • Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment.

    • Three 4.5 mm Phillips along the optical drive bezel. (a magnetic screwdriver may help to lift these screws out)

    • One 12 mm Phillips in the lower right corner.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips.

The first two screws in this step are legit. The next eleven do not exist.

mknoy - Reply

We recommend placing the computer on a soft cloth from this point on to prevent damaging the logic board.
  • We recommend placing the computer on a soft cloth from this point on to prevent damaging the logic board.

  • Turn over the computer and open it.

  • Use the flat side of a flathead screwdriver to remove the small magnet covering a screw near the middle of the computer.

  • The shorter screw goes in the lower left corner.

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Remove the following 7 screws from the edges of the keyboard area.
  • Remove the following 7 screws from the edges of the keyboard area.

    • Three 2 mm Phillips along the right edge.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips underneath where the magnet was.

    • One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner.

    • Two 6 mm Phillips with large heads, one in the upper left corner and one in the middle.

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Before you can yank the upper case off, you must disconnect the trackpad connector, the blue and white power cable, and speaker cable as described in the next steps. Be especially careful with these cables; never pull directly on the cables, but use a spudger to pry up the connector directly.
  • Before you can yank the upper case off, you must disconnect the trackpad connector, the blue and white power cable, and speaker cable as described in the next steps. Be especially careful with these cables; never pull directly on the cables, but use a spudger to pry up the connector directly.

  • Carefully lift the upper case slightly and move it toward the front of the computer to reveal the trackpad connector. Use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab.

  • After disconnecting the track pad connector, carefully rotate the upper case away from you and rest it against the display.

Although these instructions forewarn that these connectors are fragile, I would suggest emphasizing this in BOLD. When one of these connectors in the next couple steps pulls free from the logic board, as my speaker connector did with very little force, I was told by my Mac repair center that "...you're at the end of the road, period. There's no way we can re-solder that speaker connection". This may not be totally correct because other advice in iFixit suggests it is possible but regardless, the extremely small contact pads that need to be re-soldered really requires removing the entire logic board, experience with very tiny solder projects, and double the time and effort.

A second tool such as a tiny flat blade screw driver to hold down the connector that is soldered to the logic board while pulling/prying up on the male side of the connector with the spudger so that the soldered portion doesn't rip off the board was found to be helpful.

This set of instructions however is very complete, just read them carefully.

crtolson - Reply

If the speaker connection (step 25) is carefully/successfully removed, it is possible to leave the power button (blue and white, step 26) connector in place and carefully lift the metal cover to access the HD toward the front.

crtolson - Reply

Follow crtolson's advice, but when prying the connectors, do it one side at a time, and use a LIGHT touch when doing so. Work each side slowly, HOLDING DOWN THE HEADER IN THE CENTER WITH A SMALL FLAT-HEAD PRECISION SCREWDRIVER, pulling up lightly with the spudger once per side. The connector will eventually come loose enough to lift it from the header. DO NOT USE YOUR FINGERS! Always use a spudger.

The instructions in CAPS are VERY important, lest you pull the header off the board. I've made this mistake myself, and I've been working on Mac notebooks for 20 years...

CL Johnson - Reply

The connectors at the ends of the following cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.
  • The connectors at the ends of the following cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

  • Use the sharp end of a spudger to disconnect the speaker cable connector.

The speaker cable connector was very tightly connected into the socket. When I tried to take it out the socket came right off the motherboard. In this case, in order to pull out the connector plug you must hold down the socket at the same time to make sure it isn't pulled from the motherboard.

tbj240 - Reply

i got a used book and opened it to exchange the hd to a bigger one. i found the airport/bluetooth cards connective socket dislocated and the speaker cables' socket as well. now i've led the free end of the speaker cable together with its connector through the opening of the kensington lock outside the case (no easy task but it went through) to fix a jack which goes into the headphones plug.

channy8 - Reply

The male connector came out with the female one right off my logic board. I tied very carefully gluing it back. Appears that isnt enough; will need to be soldered back into place if I aver want to have sound again. USB, Bluetooth or AirPlay/AirTunes seem to be my remaining options.

Be very careful with this step!

Chimpur - Reply

Using the sharp end of a spudger, disconnect the connector for the blue and white power cables.  Again, be careful to pry up only on the connector. It is very easy to break the connector from the board, so be careful.
  • Using the sharp end of a spudger, disconnect the connector for the blue and white power cables. Again, be careful to pry up only on the connector.

  • It is very easy to break the connector from the board, so be careful.

  • The key is to apply force in two directions, down to keep the surface board connections intact, up to release the connector.

  • The upper case is now free and can be removed from the computer.

Be careful with this step, when I did I was stuck with glue on the cable connector of the card.

JCarlos19 - Reply

Warning, be extremly carful with this step! I lift the hole socket from the board. :(

Its not cool to have a new "big" HD in a computer without powerbutton!

And belive me it is really a tiny work to solder it in place again.

hugobass - Reply

There is a rectangular magnet on the underneath side of the upper case assembly near the CD-ROM. Be sure it is in place or the "close lid and sleep" function will not work.

apenzott - Reply

There is actually no need to remove the power plug if you are careful with the placement of the top cover. I had the whole plug pull of the board and had to solder it back again. Not an easy task had to use a magnifying glass to see it.

john50 - Reply

Quote from john50:

There is actually no need to remove the power plug if you are careful with the placement of the top cover. I had the whole plug pull of the board and had to solder it back again. Not an easy task had to use a magnifying glass to see it.

I wish I had read John's comment! I thought I was being careful to unplug without pulling and I pulled the whole plug out of the board too : ( I've never soldered anything before.......

Ann - Reply

Quote from john50:

There is actually no need to remove the power plug if you are careful with the placement of the top cover. I had the whole plug pull of the board and had to solder it back again. Not an easy task had to use a magnifying glass to see it.

As noted above, be very careful!

I also had the whole plug come off the board and had to solder it back. Definitely try and do it without removing the blue & white power cable.

Matt - Reply

Ditto. I didn't even notice that I'd torn the connector off the logic board until I went to put it all back together. It really is way too tight a connection and since you have so little room to work, it's VERY hard to pull it out without damage.

If you break this connection, anything else you're doing won't matter. Go slow, get a magnifying glass and perhaps try to hold town the part that's connected to the logic board as you attempt to pull out the connector....

If you have any problems or think that you can't do this, I'd say that you should stop, button it all back up and bring it to someone. Even a cheap, used logic board is around $250-350 -- and that's not worth it.

dylewski - Reply

Quote from Matt:

As noted above, be very careful!

I also had the whole plug come off the board and had to solder it back. Definitely try and do it without removing the blue & white power cable.

Several people have mentioned soldering the plug back.......How exactly did you achieve this?! Are you experienced with micro-soldering? Were you able to salvage your laptop?! Although I got good advice to take it to a tv/electronics shop and have them solder the blue and white cables directly to the board, I have not done this. The comp is still neatly packaged by teardown step and sitting in a cardboard box. It's really annoying to look at this useless box of components that used to be a very nice little laptop : (

I would love to hear how you managed the repair.

Ann

Ann - Reply

Quote from Ann:

Several people have mentioned soldering the plug back.......How exactly did you achieve this?! Are you experienced with micro-soldering? Were you able to salvage your laptop?! Although I got good advice to take it to a tv/electronics shop and have them solder the blue and white cables directly to the board, I have not done this. The comp is still neatly packaged by teardown step and sitting in a cardboard box. It's really annoying to look at this useless box of components that used to be a very nice little laptop : (

I would love to hear how you managed the repair.

Ann

The plug has two holes in the back that slot into two pins on the board.

I slotted the pins in and the two wires on the front of the plug that need soldering to the board line up where they attach to the board.

I used a soldering iron with a flat tip (like a flat-head screwdriver) and pressed on the two wires at the same time for a second or two. That was long enough to melt the solder and reattach the wires. It took two attempts to get it attached correctly.

I didn't add any extra solder and I haven't had much experience with soldering.

Matt - Reply

Quote from Matt:

The plug has two holes in the back that slot into two pins on the board.

I slotted the pins in and the two wires on the front of the plug that need soldering to the board line up where they attach to the board.

I used a soldering iron with a flat tip (like a flat-head screwdriver) and pressed on the two wires at the same time for a second or two. That was long enough to melt the solder and reattach the wires. It took two attempts to get it attached correctly.

I didn't add any extra solder and I haven't had much experience with soldering.

Ann - Reply

Quote from Ann:

Thanks Matt! That was a very complete description. My son (mechanical engineering student.....unfortunately, not electrical...lol) has some equipment. I'm hoping that he can manage it when he comes home this weekend. I do see the pins on the board and the two wires.

Thanks again sharing your approach!

Ann

Ann - Reply

Quote from JCarlos19:

Be careful with this step, when I did I was stuck with glue on the cable connector of the card.

DO NOT PRY!!!! just toasted my iBook following this lousy advise. Try pulling from the wires very lightly instead or cut back the surrounding metal to get a better approach. If anyone has a high res scan of the area surrounding the the plug and where to solder connection, I melted the socket and am now resorting to soldering directly to the board but its not going well.

eric - Reply

It is NOT necessary to remove these cables. Just flip the upper case on the screen and secure it with a little tape and nothing can happen to this delicate connection!

Everling - Reply

this is a very tricky step

Joel Grimes - Reply

Man, this step is really hard. The hardest step of the iBook guide. It is possible to carefully wiggle it out. Bit by bit, wiggle the plug gently back and forth ever so slightly, so that it comes out. It is SO easy to break it. I've done it before. With patience, it can be done. Just take your time.

Jonas Kvale - Reply

If you're careful and are able to remove the trackpad connector without damage, it is possible to lean the top case and metal shield against the screen, without having to remove the speaker and power connectors, while you replace the hard drive. You'll have to unstick the speaker cable from the shield first, remove the screws, and reroute the speaker cable out of the notch that it's in. SLOWLY remove the metal shield and CAREFULLY lean it up against the screen.

CL Johnson - Reply

Remove the fifteen 3 mm Phillips screws securing the top shield to the computer.
  • Remove the fifteen 3 mm Phillips screws securing the top shield to the computer.

  • Remove the following 16 screws:

    • Thirteen 3 mm Phillips.

    • One 3 mm Phillips. (actual screw not present in image)

    • Two 4 mm Phillips.

  • Be sure to fit the screw near the left hinge through the loop in the display data cable, securing the cable to the upper case.

Variant:

Upper-left corner is M2.5 x 5.5mm screw.

apenzott - Reply

Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.
  • Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.

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Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the top of the modem.
  • Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the top of the modem.

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Remove the two Phillips screws at the corners of the modem.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws at the corners of the modem.

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Lift the modem and modem shield from the bottom.
  • Lift the modem and modem shield from the bottom.

  • When replacing the modem, seat the shield first, and then connect the modem and press it firmly into the shield, making sure that it is connected to the logic board.

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Remove the following three screws:
  • Remove the following three screws:

    • Two 3mm Phillips screws.

    • One 7.5 mm Phillips screw.

  • Lift the small plastic retaining bracket up and out of the computer.

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Using a spudger, pry up the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the end closest to the hard drive. Be sure to pry against the metal framework, as shown in the picture.
  • Using a spudger, pry up the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the end closest to the hard drive. Be sure to pry against the metal framework, as shown in the picture.

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Hold the AirPort/Bluetooth board in one hand and use a spudger to disconnect the two antenna cables.
  • Hold the AirPort/Bluetooth board in one hand and use a spudger to disconnect the two antenna cables.

  • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth card from the computer.

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Turn the computer over.
  • Turn the computer over.

  • Disconnect the inverter cable from the logic board and deroute it from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

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Turn the computer back over.
  • Turn the computer back over.

  • The cable you're about to remove is very fragile - do not pull directly on the wires. Instead, try to pry up the connector directly, using a spudger or a small flathead screwdriver if necessary.

  • Disconnect the microphone cable at the front of the computer, between the left side of the hard drive and the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

  • Although not absolutely essential, removal of the hard drive will give enough space to remove the connector with your fingers.

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Use the black plastic handle to disconnect the display data cable from the logic board by pulling straight up.
  • Use the black plastic handle to disconnect the display data cable from the logic board by pulling straight up.

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Peel up the yellow tape holding the display data cable to the metal framework and remove the single Phillips screw beneath it.
  • Peel up the yellow tape holding the display data cable to the metal framework and remove the single Phillips screw beneath it.

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De-route the AirPort antenna cables from the heat sink.
  • De-route the AirPort antenna cables from the heat sink.

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Support the display with one hand and remove the single Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).
  • Support the display with one hand and remove the single Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).

  • The screws go in the outer holes on each side (you can see the threads in the correct hole).

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Tilt the display back, freeing it from the two metal alignment posts holding the hinges in place, and lift it from the computer.
  • Tilt the display back, freeing it from the two metal alignment posts holding the hinges in place, and lift it from the computer.

  • Display remains.

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Use a 1.5mm hex screwdriver to remove the two hex screws on either side of the display (four screws total). If you don't have a 1.5mm hex driver, you can probably get these screws out with a T6 Torx screwdriver. However, if you use a T6 Torx driver you'll be more likely to strip the screws.
  • Use a 1.5mm hex screwdriver to remove the two hex screws on either side of the display (four screws total).

  • If you don't have a 1.5mm hex driver, you can probably get these screws out with a T6 Torx screwdriver. However, if you use a T6 Torx driver you'll be more likely to strip the screws.

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Insert the flat end of a spudger perpendicular to the face of the display into the gap between the front and rear bezels near the upper left corner of the display. Rotate the spudger away from the display to pry the rear bezel off the front bezel.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger perpendicular to the face of the display into the gap between the front and rear bezels near the upper left corner of the display.

  • Rotate the spudger away from the display to pry the rear bezel off the front bezel.

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Run your spudger along the top edge of the front display bezel to evenly separate the two bezels.
  • Run your spudger along the top edge of the front display bezel to evenly separate the two bezels.

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Working down from the upper left corner, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rear bezel away from the left edge of the display. Working down from the upper left corner, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rear bezel away from the left edge of the display.
  • Working down from the upper left corner, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rear bezel away from the left edge of the display.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rear bezel away from the right edge of the display.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rear bezel away from the right edge of the display.

  • If necessary, pry along the bottom edge of the rear bezel to separate it from the display assembly.

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Lift the rear bezel off the display assembly.
  • Lift the rear bezel off the display assembly.

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Remove the large piece of tape near the lower right corner of the display.
  • Remove the large piece of tape near the lower right corner of the display.

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Remove the single screw inserted through the piece of EMI tape near the bottom edge of the display (it's the first of the two clutch cover screws). Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small washer under the screw you just removed.
  • Remove the single screw inserted through the piece of EMI tape near the bottom edge of the display (it's the first of the two clutch cover screws).

  • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small washer under the screw you just removed.

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Peel the aluminum/EMI tape as one piece off the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.
  • Peel the aluminum/EMI tape as one piece off the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

  • It is not necessary to peel the tape off the thin steel LCD cover.

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Remove the pieces of readily removable tape from around the perimeter of the display.
  • Remove the pieces of readily removable tape from around the perimeter of the display.

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Remove the piece of aluminum tape near the center of the LCD cover. Peel back the piece of tape securing the display data cable ground loop to the thin steel LCD cover.
  • Remove the piece of aluminum tape near the center of the LCD cover.

  • Peel back the piece of tape securing the display data cable ground loop to the thin steel LCD cover.

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Remove the two Phillips screws securing each side of the LCD to the clutch hinge frame (four screws total). Remove the two Phillips screws securing each side of the LCD to the clutch hinge frame (four screws total).
  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing each side of the LCD to the clutch hinge frame (four screws total).

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Lift the thin steel LCD cover off the LCD.
  • Lift the thin steel LCD cover off the LCD.

All the RF shields are aluminum, and the frame is cast magnesium, fwiw.

Theron Ninth - Reply

Remove the second of the two Phillips screws securing the clutch cover to the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.
  • Remove the second of the two Phillips screws securing the clutch cover to the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

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Pull the clutch cover away from the front of the display. Keep track of the two covers that close the ends of the clutch cover. The third picture shows their correct orientation on the clutch cover. Keep track of the two covers that close the ends of the clutch cover. The third picture shows their correct orientation on the clutch cover.
  • Pull the clutch cover away from the front of the display.

  • Keep track of the two covers that close the ends of the clutch cover. The third picture shows their correct orientation on the clutch cover.

To reinstall the two covers, hold one with tweezers, push clutch cover up. Tilt it and do the other side.

tommalschaert - Reply

Remove the two pieces of tape over the display data/microphone cables near the lower edge of the display.
  • Remove the two pieces of tape over the display data/microphone cables near the lower edge of the display.

Check the microphone cable where it enters the display. The outer layer is often cracked and this causes the microphone to short out. Wrap a single layer of the yellow tape around the area where it touches the screen metal frame.

tommalschaert - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to lift the microphone out of the front bezel. De-route the microphone cable from around the top and side of the display.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the microphone out of the front bezel.

  • De-route the microphone cable from around the top and side of the display.

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Disconnect the display data cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the LCD. Pull the connector parallel to the face of the LCD.
  • Disconnect the display data cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the LCD.

  • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the LCD.

  • Remove the display data cable from the display.

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Remove the two pieces of tape covering the inverter/AirPort cables along the lower edge of the display.
  • Remove the two pieces of tape covering the inverter/AirPort cables along the lower edge of the display.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to push the backlight connector while gently pulling its cables away from the socket on the inverter. Lift the LCD out of the front bezel and set it aside.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the backlight connector while gently pulling its cables away from the socket on the inverter.

  • Lift the LCD out of the front bezel and set it aside.

Tweezers work a lot better than the spudger to remove the backlight connector...

dentoni - Reply

Remove the three Phillips screws securing the reed switch board and the AirPort antenna to the front bezel. If you have a 1.33 GHz 12" G4 iBook, the reed switch board is located near the optical drive. Please skip to the next step.
  • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the reed switch board and the AirPort antenna to the front bezel.

    • If you have a 1.33 GHz 12" G4 iBook, the reed switch board is located near the optical drive. Please skip to the next step.

  • De-route the reed switch/AirPort antenna cables around the side of the display.

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Gently peel the inverter cable ground strap off the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges. While pulling the inverter cable away from its socket on the inverter board, use the tip of a spudger to push the connector out of its socket. If the connector won't budge from its socket, insert a metal spudger or similar tool into the gap between the connector and its socket and twist to separate the two pieces.
  • Gently peel the inverter cable ground strap off the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

  • While pulling the inverter cable away from its socket on the inverter board, use the tip of a spudger to push the connector out of its socket.

  • If the connector won't budge from its socket, insert a metal spudger or similar tool into the gap between the connector and its socket and twist to separate the two pieces.

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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the AirPort antenna to the front bezel. De-route the AirPort antenna cable along the edge of the display.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the AirPort antenna to the front bezel.

  • De-route the AirPort antenna cable along the edge of the display.

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If you have a 1.33 GHz 12" G4 iBook, simply remove the Inverter/AirPort cables. For all other models, use the flat end of a spudger to remove the antenna board from the front bezel.
  • If you have a 1.33 GHz 12" G4 iBook, simply remove the Inverter/AirPort cables.

  • For all other models, use the flat end of a spudger to remove the antenna board from the front bezel.

  • The antenna board is very thin and delicate.

  • Remove the inverter/AirPort cables.

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Remove the six Phillips screws securing the clutch hinges to the front display bezel. Lift the clutch hinges off the front display bezel.
  • Remove the six Phillips screws securing the clutch hinges to the front display bezel.

  • Lift the clutch hinges off the front display bezel.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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One Comment

After replacing hinges in iBook G4 12 inch, I feel I can do anything with laptops :)

kedzierskijacek - Reply

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