iBook G4 12" 1.33 GHz AirPort/Bluetooth Board Replacement
- Author: Walter Galan
- Difficulty: Difficult
Install an AirPort/Bluetooth Board internally.
Sections
- Battery 1 step
- Keyboard 3 steps
- Lower Case 13 steps
- Bottom Shield 2 steps
- DC-In Board 2 steps
- Upper Case 6 steps
- Top Shield 2 steps
- AirPort/Bluetooth Board 3 steps
Files
Shop these parts and tools
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Lay your iBook upside down on a flat surface.
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Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
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Lift the battery out of the computer.
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Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.
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Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.
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Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.
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Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.
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Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.
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Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.
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Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.
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There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.
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Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.
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Continue to run the spudger around the front right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.
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There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.
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Turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.
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Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.
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Have patience and follow the directions, the end result is up to you. In my case it worked. But I was a Technician TRW Automotive. and worked on Air Bag modules that was returned from customer's that needed them analyzed. I just retired after 26 years.
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Remove the following 4 screws from the bottom shield:
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Two 3 mm Phillips.
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Two 7.5 mm Phillips.
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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the DC-In board, removing tape as necessary.
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Deroute the cable from around the optical drive, removing tape as necessary.
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Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board and angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.
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Remove the two 3 mm Phillips screws inside the left edge of the battery tray.
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Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment.
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Three 4.5 mm Phillips along the optical drive bezel. (a magnetic screwdriver may help to lift these screws out)
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One 12 mm Phillips in the lower right corner.
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Four 14.5 mm Phillips.
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Turn over the computer and open it.
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Use the flat side of a flathead screwdriver to remove the small magnet covering a screw near the middle of the computer.
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Remove the following 7 screws from the edges of the keyboard area.
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Three 2 mm Phillips along the right edge.
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One 4.5 mm Phillips underneath where the magnet was.
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One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner.
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Two 6 mm Phillips with large heads, one in the upper left corner and one in the middle.
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Carefully lift the upper case slightly and move it toward the front of the computer to reveal the trackpad connector. Use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab.
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After disconnecting the track pad connector, carefully rotate the upper case away from you and rest it against the display.
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Using the sharp end of a spudger, disconnect the connector for the blue and white power cables. Again, be careful to pry up only on the connector.
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The upper case is now free and can be removed from the computer.
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Remove the fifteen 3 mm Phillips screws securing the top shield to the computer.
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Remove the following 16 screws:
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Thirteen 3 mm Phillips.
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One 3 mm Phillips. (actual screw not present in image)
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Two 4 mm Phillips.
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Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.
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Remove the following three screws:
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Two 3mm Phillips screws.
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One 7.5 mm Phillips screw.
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Lift the small plastic retaining bracket up and out of the computer.
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Using a spudger, pry up the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the end closest to the hard drive. Be sure to pry against the metal framework, as shown in the picture.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Now that you've finished, share your repair story with others.
Write a story
43 Comments
Guide
I've done this procedure successfully 3 times. On my fourth attempt, I fell victim to the dreaded Speaker Jack Motherboard Disconnection Nightmare.
Oh the silent humanity. Sound still works from the audio out jack, but I'll add my voice to the "hold the jack down to the motherboard while you unplug the connector" chorus. You might even try carefully applying superglue to the jack to the motherboard BEFORE attempting to remove the little connector from the dainty, fragile jack.
I wouldn't have even attempted this procedure without Walter Galan's excellent iFixIt base walk-through. Thanks Walter!
WildBill - Reply
Step 5
"Close the display and flip the computer over." ...Seems like this instruction ought to be at the beginning of step 1 rather than step 2. In step one, the display is already closed and the computer flipped over. In step 2, you just keep it in this position and proceed from taking the battery out to removing the rubber feet.
margaretmiz - Reply
Don't use a screwdriver! I broke out one of them...
Creditcard, FIngernails would be fine.
hugobass - Reply
Well, if you've had an iBook G4 this long, odds are the little rubber feet are falling off just from being looked at. Except the battery mounted one. That sucker is the Devils' Tower of little rubber feet.
john pellino - Reply
Step 7
I bought & used the tool kit that you sell for this repair. The 3 rings came off when the screws came out--maybe because the screw bit holder is magnetized.
syl57 - Reply
Step 8
I found T9's rather than T8's.
gdavids57 - Reply
I found 2mm allen screws in this location
rneumann - Reply
Step 10
When I did this, it helped to start around the disc drive
kleitscs - Reply
I find that a stiff nylon guitar pick will work if you don't have a spudger.
discodamon - Reply
I didn't find this step difficult at all. I have very short nails. I imagine a woman with long nails might have a problem grasping the rim and pulling up.
syl57 - Reply
Definitely read the rest of the instructions now. I struggled at first... I was using my ipad with the step by step instructions and didnt scroll down past this photo, so I didnt see the sequence of how to loosen the tabs. in fact I didn't know where the tabs might be... Only discovered that part when I reassembled it. The spudger didn't work for me. Too soft, I used mostly a thin very small screwdriver.
manyanelson - Reply
Step 12
Steps 7-9 were effortless for me.
syl57 - Reply
Step 15
Steps 10-12 were just as easy. I bought & used the Spudger, too.
syl57 - Reply
this required a little more force than I felt comfortable with at first.
Dave - Reply
Step 18
This is where things got interesting for me. I had 4 missing screws! I don't know if it came from Apple like that (highly doubtful) or if it was returned to me without the screws from the Apple Store repair I had done to replace the Latch (more likely, huh?).
syl57 - Reply
Step 20
Be careful here as the actual DC silver connector is raised from the chipboard so once you remove the screws use the spudger to gently lift out the DC IN board itself. There's some rubber casing around the silver connector too which got caught on the plastic casing of the laptop which required a bit of gentle poking to get free...
loughlin - Reply
Again, I was missing a screw here--the left one! The process of removing this part was not a problem.
syl57 - Reply
Is it necessary to remove DC cable?
rickyzhang - Reply
Step 21
Also, once I removed it, I thought there was more to do. It happened so quickly and effortlessly! I kept wondering when the difficult and trying part was coming. I was kind of disappointed by the lack of the challenge, but that's OK! The difficult part came from reversing the directions and getting the shield back in place. A cable covering on the back edge under the shield slipped out and prevented the metal tabs from seating correctly. Once I figured that out, it was smooth sailing!
syl57 - Reply
Step 25
Although these instructions forewarn that these connectors are fragile, I would suggest emphasizing this in BOLD. When one of these connectors in the next couple steps pulls free from the logic board, as my speaker connector did with very little force, I was told by my Mac repair center that "...you're at the end of the road, period. There's no way we can re-solder that speaker connection". This may not be totally correct because other advice in iFixit suggests it is possible but regardless, the extremely small contact pads that need to be re-soldered really requires removing the entire logic board, experience with very tiny solder projects, and double the time and effort.
A second tool such as a tiny flat blade screw driver to hold down the connector that is soldered to the logic board while pulling/prying up on the male side of the connector with the spudger so that the soldered portion doesn't rip off the board was found to be helpful.
This set of instructions however is very complete, just read them carefully.
crtolson - Reply
If the speaker connection (step 25) is carefully/successfully removed, it is possible to leave the power button (blue and white, step 26) connector in place and carefully lift the metal cover to access the HD toward the front.
crtolson - Reply
Step 26
The speaker cable connector was very tightly connected into the socket. When I tried to take it out the socket came right off the motherboard. In this case, in order to pull out the connector plug you must hold down the socket at the same time to make sure it isn't pulled from the motherboard.
tbj240 - Reply
i got a used book and opened it to exchange the hd to a bigger one. i found the airport/bluetooth cards connective socket dislocated and the speaker cables' socket as well. now i've led the free end of the speaker cable together with its connector through the opening of the kensington lock outside the case (no easy task but it went through) to fix a jack which goes into the headphones plug.
channy8 - Reply
The male connector came out with the female one right off my logic board. I tied very carefully gluing it back. Appears that isnt enough; will need to be soldered back into place if I aver want to have sound again. USB, Bluetooth or AirPlay/AirTunes seem to be my remaining options.
Be very careful with this step!
Chimpur - Reply
Step 27
Be careful with this step, when I did I was stuck with glue on the cable connector of the card.
JCarlos19 - Reply
Warning, be extremly carful with this step! I lift the hole socket from the board. :(
Its not cool to have a new "big" HD in a computer without powerbutton!
And belive me it is really a tiny work to solder it in place again.
hugobass - Reply
There is a rectangular magnet on the underneath side of the upper case assembly near the CD-ROM. Be sure it is in place or the "close lid and sleep" function will not work.
apenzott - Reply
There is actually no need to remove the power plug if you are careful with the placement of the top cover. I had the whole plug pull of the board and had to solder it back again. Not an easy task had to use a magnifying glass to see it.
john50 - Reply
I wish I had read John's comment! I thought I was being careful to unplug without pulling and I pulled the whole plug out of the board too : ( I've never soldered anything before.......
Ann - Reply
As noted above, be very careful!
I also had the whole plug come off the board and had to solder it back. Definitely try and do it without removing the blue & white power cable.
Matt - Reply
Ditto. I didn't even notice that I'd torn the connector off the logic board until I went to put it all back together. It really is way too tight a connection and since you have so little room to work, it's VERY hard to pull it out without damage.
If you break this connection, anything else you're doing won't matter. Go slow, get a magnifying glass and perhaps try to hold town the part that's connected to the logic board as you attempt to pull out the connector....
If you have any problems or think that you can't do this, I'd say that you should stop, button it all back up and bring it to someone. Even a cheap, used logic board is around $250-350 -- and that's not worth it.
dylewski - Reply
Several people have mentioned soldering the plug back.......How exactly did you achieve this?! Are you experienced with micro-soldering? Were you able to salvage your laptop?! Although I got good advice to take it to a tv/electronics shop and have them solder the blue and white cables directly to the board, I have not done this. The comp is still neatly packaged by teardown step and sitting in a cardboard box. It's really annoying to look at this useless box of components that used to be a very nice little laptop : (
I would love to hear how you managed the repair.
Ann
Ann - Reply
The plug has two holes in the back that slot into two pins on the board.
I slotted the pins in and the two wires on the front of the plug that need soldering to the board line up where they attach to the board.
I used a soldering iron with a flat tip (like a flat-head screwdriver) and pressed on the two wires at the same time for a second or two. That was long enough to melt the solder and reattach the wires. It took two attempts to get it attached correctly.
I didn't add any extra solder and I haven't had much experience with soldering.
Matt - Reply
Ann - Reply
Thanks Matt! That was a very complete description. My son (mechanical engineering student.....unfortunately, not electrical...lol) has some equipment. I'm hoping that he can manage it when he comes home this weekend. I do see the pins on the board and the two wires.
Thanks again sharing your approach!
Ann
Ann - Reply
DO NOT PRY!!!! just toasted my iBook following this lousy advise. Try pulling from the wires very lightly instead or cut back the surrounding metal to get a better approach. If anyone has a high res scan of the area surrounding the the plug and where to solder connection, I melted the socket and am now resorting to soldering directly to the board but its not going well.
eric - Reply
It is NOT necessary to remove these cables. Just flip the upper case on the screen and secure it with a little tape and nothing can happen to this delicate connection!
Everling - Reply
this is a very tricky step
Joel Grimes - Reply
Man, this step is really hard. The hardest step of the iBook guide. It is possible to carefully wiggle it out. Bit by bit, wiggle the plug gently back and forth ever so slightly, so that it comes out. It is SO easy to break it. I've done it before. With patience, it can be done. Just take your time.
Jonas Kvale - Reply
Step 28
Variant:
Upper-left corner is M2.5 x 5.5mm screw.
apenzott - Reply
Step 30
computers are a waste of time. your mom.
stop waisting your lives away!!!!
go climb a tree and then fly a kite. adopt a kitten. purpose to your girlfriend!...oh, wait..if your on here then you probably don't have one.... well...go buy a pair of jeans, throw those high wadders away.. and find a girl!!! :)
battleshipper - Reply
...that was harsh. I am sorry. my boyfriend was actually on this site and it is a very helpful and informative site. thank you ifixit people.
battleshipper - Reply
Step 31
the airport/bluetooth cards connective socket is veeery delicate. i encountered one, when opening the book, which had been unintentionally dislocated by the previous owner. and no human is able to resolder what has been soldered by a machine robot. i have to use one or two usb sticks instead from now on, what a pity.
channy8 - Reply