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Edit by David Hodson

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Step #10 Lines

[* black] Once we got over the fact that obliterating the front panel of the display was the only way to get it out, we grabbed the skinniest tool we could find—an [http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/iFixit-6-Inch-Metal-Ruler/IF145-108#.T9-HzCtYu7M|iFixitproduct|IF145-108|iFixit 6" ruler]—and started prying.
[* black] Once we got over the fact that obliterating the front panel of the display was the only way to get it out, we grabbed the skinniest tool we could find—an [http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/iFixit-6-Inch-Metal-Ruler/IF145-108#.T9-HzCtYu7M|iFixitproduct|IF145-108|iFixit 6" ruler]—and started prying.
[* black] With the top and sides of the display panel freed, we were able to slide the shattered remains out of the display assembly.
[* black] There were two thin strips of adhesive underneath the glass holding it in place, with a pattern that closely matched our trail of bubbles.
[* black] So, what's the lesson here? Strong adhesive and fragile glass means you're not goingIf you want a world class laptop screen that doesn't take up much real estate, don't expect to get the displaybe able to pop it out without breaking it. Using a heat gunand back in this instance is more likely to warp the LCD than soften the adhesive enough to remove the glass safelyat will.
[* black] So, what's the lesson here? Strong adhesive and fragile glass means you're not goingIf you want a world class laptop screen that doesn't take up much real estate, don't expect to get the displaybe able to pop it out without breaking it. Using a heat gunand back in this instance is more likely to warp the LCD than soften the adhesive enough to remove the glass safelyat will.