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For both of my examples, I chose a CD-ROM Audio connector that I scavenged and desoldered from an old sound card. Nothing special, except that they are the right pitch (0.1 inches), 4 pins, and have a clearly labeled pin 1, so when the "notch" is down, the pins match the order of the header on the board.

Unless you come up with a clever alternative method, you'll have some bare wire here after soldering. If there's a lot, you might want to use heat shrink tubing (or at least electrical tape) to avoid the possibility of causing a short.

The particular connector you choose doesn't really matter as long as you can solder to one end of it, you can keep track of which end is pin 1, and it's the right pitch for the cable from your STM8 programmer (which is often 0.1").

If you've got the cable for the "P5" connector and your board has the P5 header populated, ignore all these steps about adding a connector and proceed right to the next step of the programming instructions.

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