Introduction
Use this guide to replace the 2230 M.2 SSD on an Xbox Series X.
Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your console. Remember to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing the console.
These steps only describe how to physically remove and replace your console’s SSD. Because Microsoft formats their console drives, you may need additional software tools and procedures to get the replacement SSD to function as intended.
What you need
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker hiding the first screw on the back panel, near the base.
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Use a pair of blunt tweezers to peel back the large sticker on the back panel to reveal the second screw.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 7.4 mm-long screws securing the back panel.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the left side of the base.
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Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.
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Grip the back panel at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the shell to unclip the long edges.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the fan to the center chassis:
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One 10.5 mm pancake screw
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Two 8.8 mm screws
are there any 10.5mm wide head screw for the xbox fan for sale because i need a replacement because i accidentally broke mine
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Use your fingers or a pair of blunt tweezers to grip the edges of the fan cable connector, and pull up to disconnect it from the center chassis.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up on the locking tab holding the base to the shell.
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Grip the base and rotate it counterclockwise to unlock it from the shell.
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Remove the base.
had trouble getting the base off, what worked for me is setting the console on the table sitting on the base and turning the whole console while pushing down.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 8.8 mm screws securing the optical drive's vibration isolator to the shell: one on the base and one on the top of the isolator.
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Lift up the optical drive's vibration isolator to remove it.
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Use a pair of blunt tweezers to grip the edges of the optical drive power connector and pull up to disconnect it from the optical drive.
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Use your fingers to pull up and disconnect the data cable from the optical drive.
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Grip the top edge of the optical drive and pull it out of its slot in the shell to remove it.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable.
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Use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable.
The silver ribbon cable is glued down to the center chassis, so only pulling on the black plastic pull tab will result in it pulling free from the cable as that tab is only glued to the cable.
Better to heat the silver ribbon cable's adhesive with a hair dryer, separate the cable from the center chassis, and then pull the cable from the connector using the black plastic pull tab.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to depress the metal tab on the side of the power button cable's board connector.
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With the metal tab depressed, use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the pull tab to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis.
I broke this connector during disassembly. Is there a part number I can use to get a replacement on Mouser or Digikey?
I broke this connector during disassembly too. Where can I get this connector?
the manufacturer of connectors in series x is I-PEX. exact part number (as far as I'm not mistaken) 20535-010E-02 EVAFLEX 5-VS. 0.5mm pin spacing (10pin connector). a possible rescue may be to desolder the connector from the switch board and solder it permanently there.
How do I purchase this from their website?
I have these connectors. Baycroc@fedtel.net
Would we be able to order them from you directly
Yes would we be able to order these connectors directly from you?
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 7.4 mm screws securing the center chassis assembly to the shell.
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Gently peel the taped USB port ribbon cable off of the heatsink.
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Grip the center chassis and pull it towards the green fan grille at the top of the shell, uncoupling the guide pegs from the shell.
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Lift out the center chassis assembly to remove it from the shell.
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Unlatch the chassis strap from the right side of the power supply.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the power cable port to the chassis:
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Two 13.1 mm screws
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One 35 mm screw
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the 8.8 mm screw securing the power supply corner cover.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 9.6 mm screws securing the accessory antenna board to the center chassis.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the nine screws securing the board shield:
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Six 8.8 mm black screws
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Two 35 mm silver screws
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One 13.1 mm silver screw
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Disconnect the chassis strap from the locking tabs on either side of the power supply.
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Grip and compress the locking tab on the 10-pin power connector.
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While compressing the locking tab, lift the connector straight up to disconnect it from the board.
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Grip and compress the locking tab on the 2-pin power connector.
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While compressing the locking tab, lift the connector straight up to disconnect it from the board.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the four screws securing the power supply around its perimeter:
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Three 35 mm silver screws
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One 8.8 mm black screw
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Remove the power supply.
Bei meinem Ersatznetz teil musste ich auch die Kunststoff Halterung tauschen, da sonst die Löcher für die Schrauben nicht passten
super gute Anleitung
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 8.8 mm screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna board.
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Grip the base of the interconnect cable connector with your fingers.
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Depress each side of the connector to unlock the cable locking tabs.
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With the locking tabs depressed, grip the edges of the interconnect cable and pull it straight out of the connector to disconnect it.
I just had one apart for a customer, to replace HDMI port and this connector was different to the one shown.
There was a tab in the center which needed to be pushed in to release the large ribbon cable.
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Lift the center chassis off of the motherboard and heatsink assembly.
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Route the interconnect cable through the cutout on the center chassis as you remove it.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the edges of the metal SSD shield.
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Remove the SSD shield.
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Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.
I use SABRENT Tool-Free USB Type-C Dual Docking Station for PCIe NVMe M.2 SSDs with Offline Cloning Function (EC-SSD2).
my ssd is unfortunately broken and cloning from another series x nvme didn't work, the power led lights up briefly and goes off again and that's it
It is firmware locked by microsoft, you must go to them to change the ssd
Imagine going through all this, just to find out the console doesn't even support a full-sized NVMe drive.
48 steps to replace the SSD? Smh
Make it daunting enough and people would rather go to the manufacturer to do it.. we need better placement for this. Not only for easier replacement but better cooling
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Xbox Series X Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Xbox Series X Answers community for help.
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8 Comments
What name cards are compatible to install in the series x and what is the max storage capacity that can be installed?
Theoretically speaking, any M.2 NVMe 2230 SSD PCIe 4.0 that’s been formatted to New Technology File System (NTFS, proprietary MS formatting for Windows 7 onwards) should work. You’ll also need to make a Xbox OS installer USB as well, in the same style as making a Media Creation Tool for Windows 8.1 and 10 installation on new HDDs and SSDs.
https://support.xbox.com/en-AU/help/hard...
The issue I want to find out is which sector allocation value is required -> leads into the theoretical max storage of a single internal SSD (around 16TB assuming a 4KB sector size). https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows...
The Xbox SSDs are all PCIe 4.0x2 so you need WD CH (NOT PC) SN530/SN560 or SSSDTC/Lite-On XA1 SSDs.
The CH SN560 is a newer model that has faster read speeds (2400 vs 2000 MB/s) but is much more rare. Most of the CH WD SSDs on the market is CH SN530.
Mike -
Correct the SSD has a hidden partition that contains encrypted info marrying the SSD to the main board. However you can do a bit by bit clone of this partition providing your drive hasn't failed already.
Dunno about size or make I suspect you can only install 1GB until MS update the firmware and release models with bigger SSDs in.
Is there a compatible 2tb drive to use internally?
Anybody have a reply to jack n's question. How do you format a new ssd if you dont have access to the old one to clone?
