1. You can remove the side panels with a pry tool.
    • You can remove the side panels with a pry tool.

    • You don't need to remove the rubber. The rubber on this controller was already bad

  2. Remove the 5 Torx Security Bit (TR8) screws
    • Remove the 5 Torx Security Bit (TR8) screws

    • Pry the panel next to the 3.5mm port

    • Be careful to not rip the ribbon shown in the next step

    • Be careful to not rip the ribbon cable

    • You can pop the connector up to remove the ribbon easily

    • Ribbon Cable

    • Remove the 2 Torx (T6) screws

    • Desolder the 4 wires on each side, these control the vibrations and the RT LT

    • Pull up from the "top" side of the controller on the sister board.

    • These can be difficult to desolder. It is best to use a 650F degree soldering iron, if you have this available. If you are having trouble desoldering it with the old solder, adding fresh solder makes removal of the old solder easier.

    • Desolder the 4 pins holding the pins in on the left analog stick.

    • Desolder the 4 pins holding the button in on the right analog stick.

    • A 650F degree soldering iron is required. If you are having trouble desoldering these components, add new solder to make removal easier.

    • First, desolder the left analog stick.

    • Next, desolder the 6 pins for the right analog stick.

    • A 650 watt soldering iron is required. If you are having trouble desoldering the old analog sticks, add fresh solder to make removal of the old analog sticks easier.

    • Desolder the left analog stick from the controller.

    • Desolder the right analog stick from the controller.

    • If you are having trouble desoldering here are the two things you can do to solve.

    • You can use a screw driver to open the resistors and then remove them from the board allowing access to the ground pins

    • Now using snips you can cut the pins and then use a soldering iron to both sides and remove the cut pin gently with pliers

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

4 other people completed this guide.

EasyAsABC123

Member since: 01/22/2010

1,238 Reputation

5 Guides authored

23 Comments

I’ve replaced a thumbstick sensor on one of these controllers recently, and it doesn’t register movement like the other, original one. It can be described as the entire intended range of movement being compressed down into a very narrow band over the travel of the stick. The deadzone is quite large now, relatively speaking. Can this kind of behavior be attributed to a bad soldering job (all directions are recognized during tests), or is it perhaps just a bad sensor?

Brandon - Reply

Use the Xbox test app on Windows 10 to test what percentages you are getting, if you aren't getting 100% on all it is normally because the sensor isn't flat against the board. In general this is because of a bad desolder job.

EasyAsABC123 -

i cant get the module out. I desoldered the pins but it seems like the module is glued onto the board? Tutorials doesnt show that part

Patrick “II JumPeR I” Korell - Reply

It is just soldered in, hold the soldering iron the the pins and pull gently. If you pull too hard you might damage a solder pad, although it is unlikely.

I have a desolder vacuum gun and I still have the issue you are describing I'll be fixing an elite controller tomorrow so I'll record that and take more pictures to update this.

EasyAsABC123 -

@easyasabc

Would be great if you could do that :)

Patrick “II JumPeR I” Korell - Reply

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