Xbox 360 Racing Wheel - Fix variable resistance pot
Michel_K17 and one other contributor
Last updated on Aug 9, 2024
Views: 981
View statistics:
- Past 24 Hours:
- 6
- Past 7 Days:
- 21
- Past 30 Days:
- 92
- All Time:
- 981
Comments: 6
6 guide comments.
Go to guide commentsCompleted: 1 2
1 person has marked this guide "completed." Will you be next?
2 people have marked this guide "completed." Including you — great job!
Favorites: 1 2
1 person has favorited (and subscribed to) this guide. Will you be next?
2 people have favorited (and subscribed to) this guide — including you!
Community-Contributed Guide
An awesome member of our community made this guide. It was not created by iFixit staff.
Introduction
Go to step 1 ↓This guide is for Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel that experiences erratic steering behavior, whereby the wheel is not moving consistently with the input, or jumping all over the place. This is easiest to view the problem in a Windows PC with the wireless receiver, via the gamepad properties where you can compare your wheel motion to what the computer sees. If you see the output jumping all over the place, this is an indication that the variable resistance pot (potentiometer) has gotten dirty or is broken.
What you need
Parts
Tools
-
-
-
Remove 8 screws from the base (two are covered by the sticker), using a TX10 security screwdriver (i.e. with the security hole at the top)
Ask FixBot
-
-
-
Remove the additional 8 screws from the back of the wheel assembly, again, using the TX10 security screwdriver.
-
-
-
-
-
Identify the small beige panel with the pot on it. Place the steering wheel in the middle position and note the pot orientation (flat area of white guide will be towards to left.
-
Disconnect the plug.
-
Using a TX10 screwdriver, remove the panel, and place it on your workbench.
-
-
-
Potentiometer is a 10 k-ohm, and it is difficult to find a replacement, but it might simply need to be cleaned.
-
Note that the rivets may impede the cover from coming up, so use the side that has the most clearance from the rivet. Then using two jewelers screwdrivers, carefully lift at one corner while carefully bending the tab on that side. Twist just enough to allow the cover of the pot to get past the tab.
-
Once the pot is clear of the tab, use a small pair of pliers to gently extract the top portion of the pot.
-
Place the cover of the pot upside-down on your workbench
-
-
-
Using a cotton swab moistened with alcohol, gently clean the pot top cover traces. Notice the grey residue on the swab.
-
-
-
Remove the wiper from the pot body. Note: the wiper is extremely small and thin, so be extremely gentle.
-
Once on the workbench, use a clean swab moistened with alcohol, and lightly clean the wiper contacts, applying very little pressure so as not to change the shape of the wipers.
-
-
-
-
Using a screwdriver down the middle of the board for alignment, drop the wiper back into the body of the pot.
-
Align the pot cover into the grooves at the back (the side opposite from the connector), the gently press down until it clicks into the tabs. Note that the metal extensions of the pot cover interfered with the rivets slightly, and a screwdriver was used to get past the rivets.
-
-
-
Re-install the pot board with the 2 TX10 screws.
-
Reconnect the connector.
-
Re-assemble the bottom cover and base.
-
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Do not overtorque the screws as they are into a plastic casing and will strip easily.
Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
One other person completed this guide.
6 Guide Comments
I did a search on the internet (by picture and by text) and I was unable to find an exact replacement. I see two options: pull a working pot from another used wheel, or source a generic 10.5 kilo-ohm* pot that is similar, and mechanical bind (glue?) the shaft into the potentiometer's hole. Note: 10.5 kilo-ohm is what I measured at full deflection, so most likely, it is a 10.0 kilo-ohm pot.
Hermano, al mío le pasa que todo el tiempo se quiere auto-centrar cuando juego si detecta baches, grava y choques y el force feedback reacciona, pero el volante se pone duro desde que se sincroniza con el Xbox 360. Se puede jugar así pero el constante forcejeo del motor quiere dónde centrar cuando estoy girando el volante lo hace incómodo y cansado. Crees que se deba a un problema con el potenciómetro? O sabrás que pueda ser?
Bro, the issue with mine is that it constantly tries to self-center whenever the game detects bumps, gravel, or collisions and the force feedback kicks in; the wheel gets stiff the moment it syncs with the Xbox 360. It’s playable, but the motor’s constant struggle to return to center while I’m turning the wheel makes it uncomfortable and tiring. Do you think it’s a problem with the potentiometer? Or do you have any idea what it might be?
