Tools

No tools required.

Parts

Introduction

This is a shortcut, time/labor-saving, method of installing a replacement "flush valve seal" to stop water inside the toilet tank from seeping/leaking down the drain (and the continuous, annoying sound that accompanies this water loss).

Image 1/1: Using this New Seal '''installation shortcut method''', it will NOT be necessary to do the following (of the original instructions that accompany the New Seal product): "Turn off water supply to toilet and drain tank" and "Unhook trip lever..." [any "chain" will need to be momentarily unhooked.] and "Unthread stop cap..." and "Lift float assembly off....."
  • This is the New Valve Seal used in this guide, available at hardware stores and home centers.

  • Using this New Seal installation shortcut method, it will NOT be necessary to do the following (of the original instructions that accompany the New Seal product): "Turn off water supply to toilet and drain tank" and "Unhook trip lever..." [any "chain" will need to be momentarily unhooked.] and "Unthread stop cap..." and "Lift float assembly off....."

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Image 1/1: With a towel nearby, roll-up your sleeves.  Flush the toilet to lower the tank water level.
  • Remove the top of the toilet tank.

  • With a towel nearby, roll-up your sleeves. Flush the toilet to lower the tank water level.

  • Immediately identify the old, worn [red] Valve Seal at bottom of the vertical assembly of Overflow Tube and Float.

  • Reach into water tank and remove the worn valve seal by pulling it, like an old rubber band, with your finger tips (or pliers) until it breaks.

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Image 1/1: Keeping the trip lever through large center hole of the new seal, pull the new seal in the reverse direction back through the square trip lever holder. Turn the trip lever holder as you do this to allow more space to ease the new seal back through.
  • Roll the new seal and stick it through the square trip lever holder and lasso the free end of the trip lever (the opposite end of the lever is attached to the flush lever outside of the tank).

  • Keeping the trip lever through large center hole of the new seal, pull the new seal in the reverse direction back through the square trip lever holder. Turn the trip lever holder as you do this to allow more space to ease the new seal back through.

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Image 1/3: Take the new seal just over the stop cap and replace the water refill tube, being careful not to splash any water coming out of it. Image 2/3: Take the new seal just over the stop cap and replace the water refill tube, being careful not to splash any water coming out of it. Image 3/3: Take the new seal just over the stop cap and replace the water refill tube, being careful not to splash any water coming out of it.
  • When the new seal is between where the trip lever is connected to tank and where trip lever protrudes through square trip lever holder, for a moment, pull the flexible water refill tube out of the center of the stop cap. Point the free end of it down, as water may still be coming through it after flushing.

  • Take the new seal just over the stop cap and replace the water refill tube, being careful not to splash any water coming out of it.

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Image 1/1: Once in place, you should be able to gently grasp the edge of the new seal and turn it in place in the groove, around the base of the flush valve.  Check the seal by flushing, watching and listening.
  • Gently stretch and pull the new seal all the way down the vertical assembly of the overflow tube and float near the bottom and position it into its top groove of the flush valve.

  • Once in place, you should be able to gently grasp the edge of the new seal and turn it in place in the groove, around the base of the flush valve. Check the seal by flushing, watching and listening.

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Image 1/1:
  • This is the reverse side of the Flush Valve Seal package.

Unscrew the cap where the little hose fits then remove the valve entirely. Or prop it all up and slide the gasket under it and then around its holder. If you try to slip it down the flush valve as indicated you may distort or harm the gasket or valve.

etmishts - Reply

There are other illustrations elsewhere on the web.. The problem will be the new gasket will leak slightly . I just replaced one twice, can't stop the leak. Can't buy OEM parts just the generic. I have three toilets, tried to replace the gasket in all of them. Flowmaster gasket worked nothing else does. That's one out of four, one toilet shut off, going to have to do something else with a flusher, can't shut off anymore toilets, don't to try anymore gaskets.

etmishts - Reply

Conclusion

Flush Valve Seals will need to be replaced, at least, once every few years, depending on water condition. Other kinds of toilet water tanks may have similar assemblies. Why call a plumber for something so easy to do yourself?!

21 other people completed this guide.

Attached Documents

M J McAllister

Member since: 05/18/2011

1,589 Reputation

1 Guide authored

7 Comments

We have a NEW WAXLESS toilet seal.

It is extremely EASY to install and made of flexible, durable materials that are guaranteed to last.

We won Retailers Choice award at the National Hardware Show and Sani Seal Toilet Gasket is MADE IN USA.

Please check out our website at www.sanisealgasket.com

James Sweet - Reply

I followed the instructions on the package (turn off water, disassemble the flush valve).

It was so simple, I think this "shortcut" would have been more difficult.

Sean Kennedy - Reply

You "think" it would have been more difficult? No disassembly (and reassembly) required on this one.

M J McAllister -

I just followed this instruction and it was fixed in less than 2 minutes.

apexmi -

After replacing seal, mine toilet is still leaking. :-(

Nina - Reply

Nina, most replacement gaskets leak. Try fluid master if you can find one but most of this stuff from China or Mexico and the manufacturing is faulty. See my other comment.

etmishts - Reply

Nina, A few ideas:

1. Sometimes there are mineral deposits (from 'hard' water) on the surfaces the gasket resides between (for instance, around the bottom of the float tube that sinks down onto the top of the seal). You can try carefully sanding them off with fine sandpaper.

2. If you have very cold water, especially, in winter months, a seal will be tested! Look for a new seal that is shiny on its surface. This indicates it may be silicone-based (not rubber) and they work better in areas with very cold water.

3. When installed normally, distortion of the seal is not a problem. You may just need to reinstall to make sure everything goes smoothly. But, first, gently pull the seal on opposite sides, with both hands. Do this moving around the seal to be sure it is properly seated in place. If nothing else woks, time to call a professional : )

M J McAllister - Reply

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